1080TI MSI ARMOR OC - cooling with Arctic Accelero IV rev.2

[Bernec]

Hey guys ! Happy new year !!!

I've got an Arctic Accelero IV rev.2 for one of my cards. I want to switch the cooler of my MSI 1080TI Armor OC card (very underpowered for TI maybe good for an 1070).

I've got a photo from the web and drew some circles around areas that I figured out that need to be cooled. Am I missing anything ? (this cooler will have backside cooling)

Here is the picture of the areas I'm talking about:

Here is the installation page:

ARCTIC Mobile Support

support.arctic.ac

I guess I will see when take off the black plate ... there are more spots on the right between ram and power delivery and so on ... only removing the plate will actually show me all the hot spots.

 

[Deleted member 185158]

You just lay the protective film onto the card and use a marker and outline the areas that need the holes. Memory and VRM package area are the main concern.

Looks easy, but a picture of your naked card would be very helpful, someone could help identify everything that would need to be exposed.

 

[FreedomEclipse]

I think you'll be just fine. you'll be able to run the arctic at a higher speed than the stock cooler because its quieter and moves a fair bit more air. At 60'c im at 45% fan speed. and i can just about hear the card. Average temp is 44-46'c@45% fan rpm and it turbos up to 2000mhz on the core.

I didnt have the same 'plate' over the memory and mosfets as you though so i had to stick those small memory heatsinks everywhere but its been absolutely rock solid since i bought it around Q3 or Q4 2019.

Asus StriXX cards use the same design so you're more than fine

 

[JackCarver]

This is a picture of the MSI GTX 1080 Ti Armor from GamersNexus. You can see the VRAM, the vcore vrm and the VRAM vrm. To get best performance these areas needed to be cooled. On the VRAM there is one pad missing on the picture, left side down. For vcore VRM cooling you need to cool these SFC chips also. For VRAM vrm cooling you need to cool the area which is marked with mem, the R22 chips and the area above.

Edit:
And you need to cool the chip also ;-)

 

[FreedomEclipse]

View attachment 140990

This is a picture of the MSI GTX 1080 Ti Armor from GamersNexus. You can see the VRAM, the vcore vrm and the VRAM vrm. To get best performance these areas needed to be cooled. On the VRAM there is one pad missing on the picture, left side down. For vcore VRM cooling you need to cool these SFC chips also. For VRAM vrm cooling you need to cool the area which is marked with mem, the R22 chips and the area above.

Edit:
And you need to cool the chip also ;-)

yeah but thats with the 'armor' stripped off it. Otherwise it looks like this.

The black plating will help spread the heat. If its good enough for strix cards, it will be fine.

Strix card:

If keeping the VRMs cool is a worry, consider buying some memory heatsinks and glue them on to the black plating where the VRMs are with thermal adhesive. Its a more permanent solution but thermal tape doesnt hold too well with high temperatures and ends up falling off sooner or later.

you can use Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive or Arctic Silver Alumina Adhesive - which ever is cheaper and they will work just fine. I attached my own heatsinks with Alumina.

 

[Bernec]

Most of the times I prepared my own adhesive using epoxy and thermal compound mixed together ... had good results.

 

[FreedomEclipse]

that works pretty good too. its safe to use AS5 too in this case

 

[JackCarver]

Maybe you can leave the black plating on the card. To assemble my waterblock on my old MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X I had to disassemble it. If you want to oc your GPU and VRAM good vrm cooling will be necessary. The most important part here are the MOSFET chips on the right beside the chokes and capacitors (vcore vrm) and the chips above R22 (VRAM vrm). These chips will produce most heat.

 

[Bernec]

I'm pretty sure I can leave the black plate on it because if it doesnt fit in the GPU area I can take it off and cut it and put it back on. So you guys think its better to leave the black plate installed also.

 

[FreedomEclipse]

I'm pretty sure I can leave the black plate on it because if it doesnt fit in the GPU area I can take it off and cut it and put it back on. So you guys think its better to leave the black plate installed also.

The back plate might not fit due to the Accelero mounting system

 

[Bernec]

The back plate might not fit due to the Accelero mounting system

Anything can be cut especially thin aluminium and steel I'm not afraid of it by any means

 

[FreedomEclipse]

Anything can be cut especially thin aluminium and steel I'm not afraid of it by any means

Sorry i thought you mean back plate as in one of these

The stuff cooling your memory and VRMS - you should have no problem. If i managed to glue the little aluminum memory heatsinks that sit slightly over 1cm high on my card with the same cooler. you should be fine.

Leave it on. it will help maintain structural rigidity

 

[Bernec]

Found a naked card picture ...

If someone has free time can mark the spots for cooling ? (I know VRM/mem locations) but I might miss something and always more minds working together means less chance of failure

 

[FreedomEclipse]

So youre going to remove the black plating and install proper memory heatsinks? cuz your question is pretty much answered in your first post and the second post that jackcarver posted

 

[Bernec]

So youre going to remove the black plating and install proper memory heatsinks? cuz your question is pretty much answered in your first post and the second post that jackcarver posted

No I wont bother with custom. I will just cut the black plate to be able to stay on and I will cool the back using the "patented" enormous back plate that Arctic provides.

So the card will still have the front black plate and on the back the supplied back plate radiator from Arctic. The GPU cooler will be ofc the Artic one.

I hope to achieve above 2GHz stable core clocks. Any bios you recommend flashing ? I dont want XOC or anything crazy ... just a little more volts and power to be able to sustain 2000-2100 clocks (depends on how lucky I will be).