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Ghetto Mods

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Did you actually solder the IHS to the base of the heatsink? If so, how did you manage that (especially without destroying the heatpipes)?

Yes it is actually soldered. There are two version, second being IHS is normal where you can clearly see the solder flowing up around the side (second Noctua C14). I've have a few heatsink which I have soldered the IHS to the heatsink. You can clearly see true performance between different heatsink including old classic "all copper" heatsink with heatpipe. So don't write them off just yet, performance is right up there with todays modern heatsink.

The IHS is clamped under huge pressure then put in an oven. This squeezes out the solder which flows up the side. So you are left with ultra thin layer of solder between IHS & Heatsink, not forgetting both IHS & heatsink is lapped for flatness to the raw copper before soldering. Temperature is monitored but you know when it is ready to come out of the oven when soldered flows up the side giving it a seal all round the IHS. Yes, you have to monitor the temperature very carefully otherwise you will destroy the heatsink.

I believe I did set a world record on air for 939 platform, but I'm not to concern about this, because I know I can go even quicker, but this experimental project was all about "heat transfer". I also tested passive open air bench no fan with the Noctua C14 , but I also have, thermaltake, zalman, silverstone, Dark Rock heatsink from Bequite & a few others with soldered IHS at the base of the Heatsink..
 
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Hugis

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Hellooo TPUers and Ghetto Mod Peeps, Well i have a little project that i thought id share with you guys and gals.
My best mate sent me his 1080Ti FE the other day and although its a great card an all , it doesn't like overclocking and even a small boost sends the fan in hyper space!
I've already had my compressor blow all the shit out of it and put new MX4 on it, and that took it down 3-4 degrees @ idle and it does boost better but it is noisy still when on boost.

So I was looking at aftermarket stuff and really cant afford a 70euro cooler(artic and rajintek) also i don't want to loose my aio from my 4770K(was thinking of a G12 kraken)
So i pulled up some pictures of after market oem coolers and realized that they isn't much difference from my ACXcooler on my 780ti classy.
I am waiting on some parts( mini 4pin fan header to twin 4pin pwm adapter)
1602680579125.png


I am going to attach a 92mm and a 120mm from my stock bin to the acx cooler as below(zip ties prolly)
1602682491550.png


I have had both fans running and there is a lot of air moving at the back/underside of the cooler (I wet my hand to test for moving/cold air)

I've got a good impression what will need to be modified/taken off the cooler(rear caps, pcie connectors/4 pin fan are in the way and one of the bottom choke assembly)
Areas marked in black are parts needing cooling, red are obstructing and yellow seem ok for clearance.
1602683540736.png


1602683935122.png



I will update here when i have got into it a bit more and when the parts arrive.
Thanks for looking :toast:
 
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Hi,
Lots of rigging going on here
EK evo water block mounted with hyper 212 evo air coolers back plate and four washers (no springs) and ek magnitude hex head mounting screws fit perfectly into the 212 evo back plate
EK ce280 rad hanging with two 1/4" thick 3/4 wide aluminum plates seeing the back of the cabinet was cut out for a 360 mora rad and different system.

Just hanging the China clone test bench was fun
Ended up using four adjustable shelf pins (one used as a washer to hold the gpu anchor on with) and screwed a 1/4" hole in each leg of the test bench and slipped on so easy to remove and reinstall
SSD's and CD/ DVD all mounted with double stick tape.

MC-2 water cooled q9550-05.jpg
 

Hugis

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Little update
After fettling with the cooler and fans, I'm super chuffed that the 120 fan actually fits in the bracket that the ACX fan casing was attached to and happy to have it blowing on a slight angle,
really pleased with the minimalist approach of connecting the fans to the cooler (2 zips for the 92 and 1 zip(2 connected) for the 120 with the wire holding it in place at the top.
-The 120 fan had the worlds longest fan wire and the holes were really tight for the zip ties to go through and as such its held into the frame by magic :)

I'm really pleased with cable management/routing it has a zen like understated look.:roll:

I dont have a dremel so used the age old method of bending back and forth the fins till they snapped off, the first few i tried a pair of Snap On side cuts but bending left a better "cut".

There was a slight mistake on the post above, the power for the fan i had mislabeled, that was the power for LED GTX logo, I have remedied that and taken out the required fins for both, they should both fit now.

1602749548468.png


1602749630367.png


1602749671803.png



Cable has been sent AliExpress(could be some time)

Thanks for looking.
 
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Little update
After fettling with the cooler and fans, I'm super chuffed that the 120 fan actually fits in the bracket that the ACX fan casing was attached to and happy to have it blowing on a slight angle,
really pleased with the minimalist approach of connecting the fans to the cooler (2 zips for the 92 and 1 zip(2 connected) for the 120 with the wire holding it in place at the top.
-The 120 fan had the worlds longest fan wire and the holes were really tight for the zip ties to go through and as such its held into the frame by magic :)

I'm really pleased with cable management/routing it has a zen like understated look.:roll:

I dont have a dremel so used the age old method of bending back and forth the fins till they snapped off, the first few i tried a pair of Snap On side cuts but bending left a better "cut".

There was a slight mistake on the post above, the power for the fan i had mislabeled, that was the power for LED GTX logo, I have remedied that and taken out the required fins for both, they should both fit now.

View attachment 171829

View attachment 171830

View attachment 171831


Cable has been sent AliExpress(could be some time)

Thanks for looking.
I tried this a while ago with a 7970 and was sorely dissapointed :( Temps went way up from stock. Though I didn't use the best fans, I went from a single small fan to 2x 90mm ones and I ended up having to go back to stock.
 

Hugis

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I tried this a while ago with a 7970 and was sorely dissapointed :( Temps went way up from stock. Though I didn't use the best fans, I went from a single small fan to 2x 90mm ones and I ended up having to go back to stock.

Thanks for your comment, i am quite willing to go back to stock if this doesnt work.

You didnt mention which cooler you tried to replace the blower with?

I have studied the ICX version with my ACX version and tbf there isnt a huge difference(both 6 large heatpipes and covered die area) I would of liked better spacing of the heatpipes so air can get through better but it is what it is.

ICX 1080Ti
1602835373199.png

ACX 780Ti
1602835516983.png



also im fitting a 120 and a 92 which is quite a step up from 2 x90, either way it is all in the name of science and fun! :toast:
 
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Now , if You land big ass heat sink like that what would You do with it ? Just fishin for ideas to keep myself busy and amused after my clear and present project is good and done :D Heat sink dimensions are as follow : 320 mm x 155 mm x 55 mm
20201101_130040.jpg

Cheers.
 
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Wow guys not logged into Techpowerup for a long time now pleasantly supprised to see this thread still being used in 2020! THANKYOU ! and hello again.
 
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gtx1660ti, watercooled via amazon “special” cooling block (pomya GPU Waterblock)
had to cool the vrms so “hacked” the heatsink to fit (did not need the gpu part) used an original AMD heatsink fan... probably from the first amd processor i bought.
...chopped the GPU fan to half length...

the reservoir water filter has a Keurig coffee machine reusable coffee pod filter with lid removed drilled the bottom to fit eisbecher 250mm center tube. held in place with 13/19 tubing over the center tube sanded down to 13mm diameter...
the fountain output is a 10/13 piece of tubing in a 13/19 section to extend the center tube.

the coffee filter is a water filter and a bubble/vortex stopper...

the reservoir is lit by a cree 5050-16 led, and LED driver with the aquaero fan channel in voltage mode... (may change to the lm2596 cc circuit and 12v output... ) if you look closely, it looks purple... because i knocked off the lens of the led installing it into the bottom of the 5mm clear stopper fitting...


5940C567-CE72-41A7-8B68-B51EE8C6A716.jpeg
058105E7-3548-409D-8099-B6CB462FBB9F.jpeg
 

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Wow, that's a throwback to the early days of water cooling (though your pumps are much better :p). I
Love it!
 
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Now , if You land big ass heat sink like that what would You do with it ? Just fishin for ideas to keep myself busy and amused after my clear and present project is good and done :D Heat sink dimensions are as follow : 320 mm x 155 mm x 55 mm
View attachment 174043
Cheers.
Passive cool a RTX 3070 or 3080 with it for the lolz
 
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Passive cool a RTX 3070 or 3080 with it for the lolz
Haah ,that is actually funny cos one would had to be able to buy them first , i do mod a bit but i'm not a magician :D
 
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PSU fan died. Glad I had a 3-Speed Antec fan sitting around!
IMG_20200208_193012.jpg
 
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:roll::roll:
20201105_082439.jpg


not mine :roll::roll:
my friend broke the bezel and then she use tape to hold it right
 
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Between using screws to fix the fan onto a fan frame and rubber things , I went with the rubber ones , all be it rubber thingies are very stretched holding a 38mm fanframe instead of the run of the mill 25mm one. I ended knoting the rubber pull extension trough and for the fanguard.
Also the standard fan clips for a 25mm fan height were two short , nothing a pair of pliers can't solve.
Le: attachment change for a better shot of the knot.
 

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While playing Doom Eternal, halfway (like 20 minutes) all power completely off. Cause? A almost hot glowing transformer inside the UPS that pretty much triggered it. Proberly due to voltage correction or so which caused it to heat up.

IMG_4730.jpg


So lets attach a small fan here ... That would just fit enough without hacking inside the casing.

IMG_4731.jpg


Put some foam in between for anti-vibrance.

IMG_4734.jpg


Now floating in between the PCB and transformer, perfect fit.

IMG_4735.jpg


Airflow now nicely coming out of the vents.. however, i need to grab something to lower it's voltage, i cant seem to find a steady "7V" point reference on which i can attach this fan. When it does charge the battery the voltage ramps up to 14.1V so pretty much fan at 6k RPM by now lol. The battery has a bit of airflow now as well.

v1.jpg

I had a old charger for an old device, it's output is like 6.5V or so; was perfect! so hotglued the back of the PCB first as a protective layer, then hotglued it onto the battery wires so it would be stable, cut the wires to attach it onto the 220V output,

v3.jpg


Fitted nice and steady in there. Its load is only like 2W or so, really simple conversion board, no issues,

v2.jpg


My genuine ghetto mod! :D Only works when the UPS is powered on which is perfect, fan is running very silently now.

end.jpg


And the end! Hopefully no more premature shutdowns now due to a hot transformator block.
 
Last edited:
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That's like half way between ghetto and awesome
 
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The only thing the I see as a problem is vent holes.That fan will do little good with out proper airflow to vent the heat away.

The plastic ribbons you see do have vent holes.

IMG_4735.jpg


Keep your hand next to it and you'll feel a very slim breeze. I gamed for 1.5 hour now (Doom eternal) and all my issues where gone. Just dont understand why in bypass mode, the transformer got so hot. I know it's a office based UPS, but they should sustain at least a 350 ~ 400W load.

The little transistor onto the board for powering the fan? It gets pretty warm; so i put a screw in it, lol. Perfect conductor of heat.
 

Hugis

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Software Windows 11 Pro
Quick update---It works!
We are around 8 °C cooler on idle (now) 17°C -- V -- 25°C(FE cooler)

Im playing with the fan curve atm, but its seeming we have have hit round a -25°C+ differential

1604877658050.png



So i will say atm its a treble win for me, cooler, quieter and a better OC.

VIVA la Ghetto!

Photos to come if your all interested :)
 
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Yes, so transistors can suffer from 'thermal runaway" ... for some reason even with a screw acting like a heatsink, it still went very hot, by all means just touching it was too much. i wanted to cool it but in order for that to happen i had to move that small PCB. I figured out the back was best including the fan covering both block and 'screw'.

thermal.jpg


So i cleaned everything up, attached everything as it should, did some glue-management, lol

glue.jpg


This was just to create the space needed for the PCB to fit,

test.jpg


So after letting it run for approx 10 minutes the screw was simply cool now, meaning i can sleep without having nightmares about thermal runaway in transistors :D

Assembled the whole thing back together, now i'm happy. You can feel a better airflow coming from the sidevents now too. Completely useless mod, i mean i could have bought a bit better capable UPS but you know, this woud'nt hurt at all, everything is well grounded, fused out, the whole thing. One wrong zap and it shuts down.
 
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IMG_5151.jpg


This is by far the "best" sollution in relation of, TEMPS! :D I tried 3 different methods of clamping down a AIO cooler onto a older Rx580, but this method using not 2 but 4 wraps extremely tightned up, gives the best temperature results.

I think the core reaches 50 degrees or so at 1.2V / 1530Mhz, i see peek consumption in furmark of over 300W lol.

It's downclocked back again to approx 1500Mhz, but i've never come across such good temps in relation of using any type of construction like these. Woud'nt suprise me if over time the card is getting bend, lol.
 
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System Name 1.21 gigawatts!
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Software Windows 8.1 Pro x64
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R15: 948 (stock) / 1044 (4,7 GHz) FarCry 5 1080p Ultra: min 100, avg 116, max 133 FPS
And the end! Hopefully no more premature shutdowns now due to a hot transformator block.

You should carefully drill several 3 mm holes. At least 2 per ribbon. That should slightly reduce temperatures due to better air flow.
 
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You should carefully drill several 3 mm holes. At least 2 per ribbon. That should slightly reduce temperatures due to better air flow.

This is very bad (given) advice. People, do not drill holes in transformers for better thermal performance. Your asking your house to be burned down with something like this. I mean i'm not an expert in relation of electronics but you could short the transformer by doing this.

There's no need for any better flow; i mean the thing is cool, and did'nt caused any issues after having a fan running at 7V. It's just a cheap inverter and with cheap stuff usually comes cheapening out on design. Its just rated for what it does and dont expect alot better.
 
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