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The TPU Darkroom - Digital SLR and Photography Club

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DSC_0091.jpg

playing with some closeup is nice too, but i guess i need to buy some ring lights
 
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Ring lights suck. If you already have a flash. Try this.
yeah, nice idea without emptying the wallet and the background of sundanese sound
 
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yeah, nice idea without emptying the wallet and the background of sundanese sound

Gives amazing light. Its what I use for my macro. Cheap yes but makes one hell of a difference to the light.
 

the54thvoid

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I've been training my fighting Uruk Hai Starlings.

2S2A0471.jpg


2S2A0418.jpg


2S2A0481.jpg
 
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A breakdown of the shot..... A blue fake flower was used as a backdrop half submerged in water. Obviously a bowl of water was also used and a bit of string across the surface with some droplets on it. Focused with the lights on on the refraction of the flower in the droplets.... macro lens f18. Then lights out UV flash used on the flower. All light in this image is a result of the uv light UVIVF.
 

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macro lens f18.

Aren't you deteriorating your picture due to diffraction effect of the lens, while using at such high aperture? It differs with each lens, tho f18 always have been in the red.
 
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Aren't you deteriorating your picture due to diffraction effect of the lens, while using at such high aperture? It differs with each lens, tho f18 always have been in the red.
Not really with macro at 1:1 yeah it is starting to enter diffraction land but not too bad. EDIT . Depends on the lens and magnification I never use my mp e 65 mm on anything smaller than f8 due to diffraction. But the Tamron 90mm isnt too bad.
 
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Not really with macro at 1:1 yeah it is starting to enter diffraction land but not too bad. EDIT . Depends on the lens and magnification I never use my mp e 65 mm on anything smaller than f8 due to diffraction. But the Tamron 90mm isnt too bad.

How many pictures you usually stack together for macro pics?
 
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Here is a shot where I did 100 images for the stack. 5X Magnification
2019-10-15-14.30.32 ZS PMax.jpg
 

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That is amazing :) :rockout: :rockout: :respect: :respect: :respect: :respect: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
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@grunt_408 get some scorpions and shoot them under UV light
 
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About to go away for 9 days. Might get some pics of where I'll be at.

These are from the last few weeks.

A proper wild tree-otter (yeah, yeah, it's a Red Squirrel) near Perth.

6B9A1203.jpg


And a post-processed shot (adjusting dynamic range) of Dunure Castle taken from the beach. Pic makes it look way more remote than it actually is.
This was already described as a ruin in 1694. Scotland was not yet British and the new English colonies were making peace-treaties with the Iroquois (watch out Iroquois, we're slick tongued devils). And, I stress again, this fortress was already spent. Got to love history.

2S2A0610_1.jpg
 
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2021-08-08 17-18-36 (C,Smoothing4).jpg


Very hard to keep eyes open with these shots. Models done a great job. Pluto trigger in sound mode used to set off the flash to capture the shot remote used to trigger the camera and countdown timer used also in dark conditions. Shutter opens drop the balloon. bam flash goes off.
_ENY2861-Edit.jpg
 

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Some pics from North & Mid England.


A Red Kite (Canon 7DMkII - 1/3200 sec, f5.6, 300mm, ISO400)
6B9A1496.jpg


The Stiperstones (EOS R - 1/125 sec, f14, 46mm, ISO100)
2S2A0816.jpg


The Stiperstones (EOS R - 1/125 sec, f16, 24mm, ISO200)
2S2A0818_1.jpg


Old farming stuff in an old mine building (EOS R - 1/13 sec, f7.1, 46mm, ISO100)
2S2A0804.jpg


Barnard Castle. A contentious place to Covid-era Brits. (EOS R - 1/200 sec, f13, 35mm, ISO100)
2S2A0709.jpg


Summerhill Force waterfall (EOS R - 10 sec, f13, 35mm, ISO100)
2S2A0696.jpg
 
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phill

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What camera's are you guys currently using for these amazing shots?? :)
 
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As for photography thread, my complaint when posting photos would be adding Lens/ISO/Shutter speed info too...

As we see questions arise from outsiders. When I purchase gear I seek info around for examples, it may be great for someone looking into that gear and see real time photos, not some half fake stuff from elite photo review sites, that are mostly doctored and shot at perfect conditions, to not to upset the maker.

Well this is a tech related forum, so it kinda would look natural :)
 

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As for photography thread, my complaint when posting photos would be adding Lens/ISO/Shutter speed info too...

As we see questions arise from outsiders. When I purchase gear I seek info around for examples, it may be great for someone looking into that gear and see real time photos, not some half fake stuff from elite photo review sites, that are mostly doctored and shot at perfect conditions, to not to upset the maker.

I don't see anything super doctored in here. unless shooting jpeg exclusive for some reason, gonna have to run it through the computer anyways so may as well make your usual button clicks out of habit

Photo is filled with so many snobby asshats around my age (90s kids), I've stopped caring and checking the details over the years (of course, not saying you are, happy to provide the info). Don't like getting lost in details, kit, and technicalities and forgetting about why I took the picture and how it made me feel, tis why im here on TPU

or idk maybe just tired and ranty today

D610 + 35mm f2D @ f/4 1/250 320iso

rose.jpg
 
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As for photography thread, my complaint when posting photos would be adding Lens/ISO/Shutter speed info too...

As we see questions arise from outsiders. When I purchase gear I seek info around for examples, it may be great for someone looking into that gear and see real time photos, not some half fake stuff from elite photo review sites, that are mostly doctored and shot at perfect conditions, to not to upset the maker.

Well this is a tech related forum, so it kinda would look natural :)

Processing RAW files isn't doctoring. All digital cameras use computational data to create a jpeg. A jpeg image lacks the information contained in a RAW file, so it's better to shoot RAW to then pull out the detail the jpeg has removed.

As for ISO speeds etc, just ask. This isn't a pro thread, though advanced skillsets (i.e. grunt) are welcome.

The most post-processing I'll normally do is adjust HDR as a camera doesn't see what our eyes do. Colour shifting is 'touching up' but is normally done for artistic reasons.
 
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