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MSI RX580 Gaming X 8gb problem after flash

RogerK88

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Hi guys,

Yesterday I tried to flash the bios on my MSI RX580 Gaming X 8gb, but I came into a problem where amdvbflash.exe (command prompt) complained the the rom was "unsigned", and came back with a fail error. I can't remember what that error is now.

For whatever reason, the system became unstable, and appeared to be locked up. Mouse not move, numlock unresponsive, etc.

I decided to do a hard boot, and when the system came back, the card was gone from Windows device manager. I figured the flash must have gone bad, so I tried all the following:

- re-flashing in windows with all other GPUs out.. Both Win and CLI versions of AMDvbFlash: Result: device not found which was to be expected to be honest.
- enabled the mobo onboard graphics, removed all GPUs except the MSI RX580, booted back in via freedos and tried flashing with the DOS version of AMDflash, same result: Device not found.
- tried the above on a second motherboard with the same results as above.

The commands I used were: amdvbflash -f -p 0 <bios.rom>

I see on the interwebs that shorting 2 pins on the bios chip can bring the card back once it gets past post. But I am assuming this is only on the 2 bios models?

Unless there are any other suggestions, it looks like I might need to buy one of those programmers that clip directly to the bios to flash it directly. I did save my original rom, so if that were to be successful, I can bring my card back to life.

If I have to go that route, can anybody point me to where the physical bios chip is on the card?

Any help on this would be great. I have been kicking my own ass for the last 14 hours. I have flashed bios' many times, and can't help but think I should have waited longer before doing that hard boot.

Edit: I just read this epic thread from front to end:

However if there is anything you think I might have missed in my steps above, please let me know.

Cheers guys....
 
Last edited:

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Whats your reasoning to bios flash?

I can help you but you will need to follow my directions.

Hi guys,

Yesterday I tried to flash the bios on my MSI RX580 Gaming X 8gb, but I came into a problem where amdvbflash.exe (command prompt) complained the the rom was "unsigned", and came back with a fail error. I can't remember what that error is now.

For whatever reason, the system became unstable, and appeared to be locked up. Mouse not move, numlock unresponsive, etc.

I decided to do a hard boot, and when the system came back, the card was gone from Windows device manager. I figured the flash must have gone bad, so I tried all the following:

- re-flashing in windows with all other GPUs out.. Both Win and CLI versions of AMDvbFlash: Result: device not found which was to be expected to be honest.
- enabled the mobo onboard graphics, removed all GPUs except the MSI RX580, booted back in via freedos and tried flashing with the DOS version of AMDflash, same result: Device not found.
- tried the above on a second motherboard with the same results as above.

The commands I used were: amdvbflash -f -p 0 <bios.rom>

I see on the interwebs that shorting 2 pins on the bios chip can bring the card back once it gets past post. But I am assuming this is only on the 2 bios models?

Unless there are any other suggestions, it looks like I might need to buy one of those programmers that clip directly to the bios to flash it directly. I did save my original rom, so if that were to be successful, I can bring my card back to life.

If I have to go that route, can anybody point me to where the physical bios chip is on the card?

Any help on this would be great. I have been kicking my own ass for the last 14 hours. I have flashed bios' many times, and can't help but think I should have waited longer before doing that hard boot.

Edit: I just read this epic thread from front to end:

However if there is anything you think I might have missed in my steps above, please let me know.

Cheers guys....
 

RogerK88

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Whats your reasoning to bios flash?

I can help you but you will need to follow my directions.

The reason I wanted to re-flash it was because the hashrate was lower than the others, despite being higher temperature. This card was the first one I ever flashed and bios modded. It was running quite ok, but I wondered if I d/led the original bios from here, that it would maybe make a difference.
When I tried to flash it, it came back with "driver not signed". The system appeared to be hung so I rebooted. And then I got into this predicament.

Happy to follow your directions, looking forward to my card getting unbricked.

Cheers...
 

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The reason I wanted to re-flash it was because the hashrate was lower than the others, despite being higher temperature. This card was the first one I ever flashed and bios modded. It was running quite ok, but I wondered if I d/led the original bios from here, that it would maybe make a difference.
When I tried to flash it, it came back with "driver not signed". The system appeared to be hung so I rebooted. And then I got into this predicament.

Happy to follow your directions, looking forward to my card getting unbricked.

Cheers...

Sorry for the late reply can you please get a picture of the white sticker from the back of the card and also please try to get a picture of one of the memory chips on the card itself
 

RogerK88

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Sorry for the late reply can you please get a picture of the white sticker from the back of the card and also please try to get

I will rape my warranty sticker soon sir, but before I do, I am wondering if the below gives you the information you seek? I will gather screwdrivers, etc., in anticipation of you answer. All while listening to Led Zeppelin of course !
:)


a picture of one of the memory chips on the card itself
1626300633710.png
 
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Picture from above gives us info for the Model, type and manufacturer of the card.
He needs a picture from the memory chips in order to feed you with the exact BIOS (original one) for your card.
As an example this card was made with Samsung, Micron and Hynix memory chips.
Also as an example if you will flash the BIOS with Hynix memory chips into your card and you have Samsung memory chips, that will lead you to a problem.
So the picture with the sticker you already sent is good but not enough.
 

RogerK88

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OK guys, here's some gut shots of my card. Not much thermal paste in there surprisingly, but maybe not? I don't know.

Also A shot of the BIOS Chip U11?

Seems the memory is Hynix: H5GQ8H24MJR.

1626313093415.png


1626313178065.png


1626313226624.png


Sorry for the late reply can you please get a picture of the white sticker from the back of the card and also please try to get a picture of one of the memory chips on the card itself

See photos above... if you need more detail, please let me know...
 

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The card was working before the bios flash?

In some pics, I either see burnt spots or dust.

I will help you find a working bios.
 

RogerK88

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The card was working before the bios flash?

In some pics, I either see burnt spots or dust.

I will help you find a working bios.

Yeah it was working fine, although a little bit hotter than the others, and a little but less performance.

I believe this is the bios I tried to flash, and amdvbflash complained about it being "unsigned"

 

eidairaman1

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Since the card is jacked let's get you back to stock first

I'm currently going to work throughout the day I will try to update post

And mining is very abusive to gpus like furmark is.

Yeah it was working fine, although a little bit hotter than the others, and a little but less performance.

I believe this is the bios I tried to flash, and amdvbflash complained about it being "unsigned"

This is your card Specs
 

RogerK88

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Since the card is jacked let's get you back to stock first

I'm currently going to work throughout the day I will try to update post

And mining is very abusive to gpus like furmark is.

Thanks mate, I'll look forward to more directions from you. Actually I bought this card new, and I had it in a hackintosh for a couple of years just doing normal computing. It's only been mining about 2 weeks.

I know this problem is actually my fault when I tried to re-flash.
 
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In the 3rd picture, the one with GPU, i would love to have the area of GPU zoomed. Why ? I see some suspect zones there, like dust or maybe some burned area.
Just to be sure be so kind and make a better picture only for that area. Thanks
 

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Thanks mate, I'll look forward to more directions from you. Actually I bought this card new, and I had it in a hackintosh for a couple of years just doing normal computing. It's only been mining about 2 weeks.

I know this problem is actually my fault when I tried to re-flash.

I highly suggest using the gpu for its intended purpose which is gaming.

Do not flash until i say i am Finished, i will be updating my reply.

2017 08 28

2017 11 09

2017 10 30

Get 1 of the files above.

Get this tool.





www.techpowerup.com





AMD VBFlash / ATI ATIFlash (3.20) Download


Unzip the file and open the Win version of amdvb flash by right-clicking an opening it with administrator rights, find the bios file you downloaded and flash, reboot, you may consider removing the gpu drivers using Display Driver Uninstaller and reinstalling them.

I am done, by the way, grab the file from 2017 11 09, thats the latest bios for your card
 

RogerK88

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I highly suggest using the gpu for its intended purpose which is gaming.

Do not flash until i say i am Finished, i will be updating my reply.

2017 08 28

2017 11 09

2017 10 30

Get 1 of the files above.

Get this tool.





www.techpowerup.com





AMD VBFlash / ATI ATIFlash (3.20) Download


Unzip the file and open the Win version of amdvb flash by right-clicking an opening it with administrator rights, find the bios file you downloaded and flash, reboot, you may consider removing the gpu drivers using Display Driver Uninstaller and reinstalling them.

I am done, by the way, grab the file from 2017 11 09, thats the latest bios for your card



Yes, i have these files already, but I grabbed a fresh set of files as per your instruction...

PS... at the moment I am unable to flash anything because the card is not visible to the system. (in windows or DOS)

In the 3rd picture, the one with GPU, i would love to have the area of GPU zoomed. Why ? I see some suspect zones there, like dust or maybe some burned area.
Just to be sure be so kind and make a better picture only for that area. Thanks

It's just dust.... I'll post a picture again later,

@eidairaman1 given that I cannot flash any rom because the card is not visible, do I now need to go down the path of shorting pins of U11 (1-8? 1-5?), then booting in?
 
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If you are willing to try here it is a short guide:
 

RogerK88

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If you are willing to try here it is a short guide:

I guess I should wait for @eidairaman1 instruction first as I promised I would. but I have a sneaking suspicion I am having to go the path of shorting the bios pins anyway.
 
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Let me explain what is "shorting method" doing.
With those 2 pins in short you actually bypass the BIOS of the video card.
It is kinda not loading (sort of).
After you see that windows has finished loaded - go to device manager and check status of your card.
IF you see it there with a yellow sign that means you can try flash the BIOS.
IF in device manager you do not see the card at all (even that you started computer by short pins method) then "HOUSTON we have a problem! "
 

RogerK88

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Let me explain what is "shorting method" doing.
With those 2 pins in short you actually bypass the BIOS of the video card.
It is kinda not loading (sort of).
After you see that windows has finished loaded - go to device manager and check status of your card.
IF you see it there with a yellow sign that means you can try flash the BIOS.
IF in device manager you do not see the card at all (even that you started computer by short pins method) then "HOUSTON we have a problem! "

Yep, I get that, now for the big question... there is so much talk about the pin numbers, and because all my life dealing with semi conductors, I number them the way spec sheets number them. There seems to be 2 mentioned methods - not counting the electronic / pc enthusiast method. For the record, I will only ever refer to them by the IC spec sheet numbering.

Do I short (bridge):
1) Pin 1 [CS#] and the diagonal opposite Pin 5 [SI]
or
2) Pin 1 [CS#] and the opposing opposite Pin 8 [VCC]

See image below

From what I have mostly read it is option 1 above. And the method is

1) short those pins with power off.
2) Let system boot and into operating system. (with short in place)
3) If visible in device manager flash bios (with short in place)
4) Power down the machine (with short in place)
5) Remove short.
6) Procedure complete.

Do I have the 6 broad steps above correct?

1626435405760.png
 

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I guess I should wait for @eidairaman1 instruction first as I promised I would. but I have a sneaking suspicion I am having to go the path of shorting the bios pins anyway.

Sorry I forgot to mention I am finished and look at past hosts for all the BIOS files that you can try I would suggest that you try the latest one which is from 2017 11 09

Use the windows version, also remove the gpu driver
 

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Sorry I forgot to mention I am finished and look at past hosts for all the BIOS files that you can try I would suggest that you try the latest one which is from 2017 11 09
Well I can't flash anything because the flashing program reports "no device available". Looks like I will do the short pins method tomorrow.
PS, the latest BIOS file is what got me into trouble in the first place. That was the one that the flashing programed complained that it was "not signed".
 
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When i did the "short pin" procedure i shorted 1 with 5 that would be cs + si
And yes those 6 steps are correct
 

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RogerK88

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When i did the "short pin" procedure i shorted 1 with 5 that would be cs + si

Yeah, I'll be doing that tomorrow. I might try to document the whole experience so if it is successful, people can learn something from it. Out of interest, did you solder a couple of wires on to the chip to short it, or did you do it with tweezers?
 
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I soldered the wire cause i do not have so steady hands :)
So to avoid moving the wires exactly when windows start and to remake the whole process again - i decided to solder the wire
 

RogerK88

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I soldered the wire cause i do not have so steady hands :)
So to avoid moving the wires exactly when windows start and to remake the whole process again - i decided to solder the wire

Final question... I plan to use a riser so I can mount the board off the mobo. Did you need to put the heatsink assy back on during the short procedure and bootup? Or can leave that off?
What about the PCIE power plugs, do they need to be in?

I assume the GPU will be not be under any load at all, so will it be safe? Or do i need to put all plugs back in and the heatsink?
 
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Processor Intel i7 7700k@4.8ghz / Ryzen 7 5700G
Motherboard MSI 270 SLI PLUS / MSI MAG X570S - TOMAHAWK MAX WIFI
Cooling ID-Cooling Frostflow X 120 - Liquid / ID-Cooling SE-903 V2
Memory 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3600 Black / 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL - 3600Mhz
Video Card(s) XFX RX 6600XT 8GB / XFX RX 5700XT THICC III Ultra 8GB
Storage 1st : 1x SSD Samsung 980 Pro 1Tb + 4x SAS HDD in RAID / 2nd : 1 Tb SSD Nvme Samsung 980 Pro 1Tb
Display(s) 2x Dell 3008 WFP
Case CoolerMaster HAF 932 / GENESIS IRID 300
Audio Device(s) Soundblaster XFI / Onboard
Power Supply Seasonic Focus 850 W / Seasonic Focus 850 W
Mouse Logitech G502 HERO / Logitech G5
Keyboard Dell SmartCard Reader SK 3205 / Dell SmartCard Reader SK 3205
Software 1st - Win 10 Pro X64 / Win 7 X86 / Ubuntu / 2nd - Windows 11 Pro x64
When you use PCIex from board or just a Riser you will need to have coolers in place. The back plate from video card doesn't need to be in place.
On the second question - when you use a riser you need to have power in place and also usb3 cable.
Just like it should be when it is placed in PCIex slot from mobo.(data cable should be in place and power also)
When you start the windows the gpu will start generate heat in a second - so yes you need to have it protected and safe
 
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