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What's your latest tech purchase?

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Nice, Ocz used to crank out some sweet modules back in the day. My all time favorites were a set of 2x2gb ddr2 8500 reapers(forget the ics)that out clocked all of my many many 1gb d9gmh/gkx modules. Wish i hadnt sold the rig they were in :(
 

Mussels

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Ahhhhh, my old OCZ ram running DDR1 600 at CL2.5...
 

HammerON

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Just waiting on the motherboard now...
20210814_094835.jpg
 

Aquinus

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Might not be a computer per say, but it cost about as much as a GPU. I finally gave in to temptation to have a real camera. Not just any camera, but a full frame DSLR. Still entry level, I'm not a professional, but I'm tired of the lackluster quality out of my phone.
1628963669086.png
 

Aquinus

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It's tech, it certainly fits here in this thread. Very nice camera!
I was feeling that itch and since I'm about to go to San Fran for the first time, I wanted to have a little bit of extra fun. :cool:
 

Aquinus

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San Fran is one of the safer cities, but still, keep a close eye on your new toy, would hate to see it stolen..
I've stayed near Dorchester in Boston several times before, so I think I should be good, but that's a really good point. I'm not planning on going anywhere near places like Tenderloin.
 
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i had a 4x kit of it ... sadly i sold the rig (it was a patchwork rig i assembled for nostalgia and fun .... ) but well ... it was sold on the cheap for a father who wanted to gift a nice rig for his kid
it was a QX6850 with a Asus P5Q Pro Turbo, a GTX 750 and that ram in 4x2gb

so, it's only a semi regret ... that rig was still down straight bangin for a entry level gaming rig when i sold it
 
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I bought new microSD for my smartphone (cost = ~90$ USD) :
test.png

test.png

^RIP first gen. microSDXC card (3 and half years with me, bought back then for ~45$ USD as "used").
 
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Space Lynx

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I bought new microSD for my smartphone (cost = ~90$ USD) :
View attachment 212593
View attachment 212594
^RIP first gen. microSDXC card (3 and half years with me, bought back then for ~45$ USD as "used").

I have this one here:



I only am getting 21MB s reads and writes on it though... its only 27% full... not sure why that is... I bought it shipped and sold by Amazon so it should be authentic, it advertises 120MB/s...

really sucks... i feel like i got screwed over.

phone i use it with is the samsung galaxy a50 android 11.
 
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I would recommend checking it in USB 3.x reader/adapter on USB 3.x port on your PC honestly (with proper drivers on that USB 3.x, because in my case, M$ provided ones sucked badly on performance side).

It's true that "Ultra" is always slower than "Extreme" in SanDisk, but having reads and writes be on par is very weird.
Read are always higher. I tested my old 128GB card in USB 2.0, and still got 35MB/s out of it on read test with CrystalDiskMark (vs. ~17MB/s on Write).

PS. Also, check if it has all of it's advertised capacity (with H2testw program I used for example).
You may have a fake card (with 20MB/s it will take forever though) :/

Here's reader I'm using :
card1.jpg card.jpg
 
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Space Lynx

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I would recommend checking it in USB 3.x reader/adapter on USB 3.x port on your PC honestly (with proper drivers on that USB 3.x, because in my case, M$ provided ones sucked badly on performance side).

It's true that "Ultra" is always slower than "Extreme" in SanDisk, but having reads and writes be on par is very weird.
Read are always higher. I tested my old 128GB card in USB 2.0, and still got 35MB/s out of it on read test with CrystalDiskMark (vs. ~17MB/s on Write).

PS. Also, check if it has all of it's advertised capacity (with H2testw program I used for example).
You may have a fake card (with 20MB/s it will take forever though) :/

Here's reader I'm using :
View attachment 212618 View attachment 212617


i used one of those basic SD card adapters to test the microsd card... that must be why my speeds were limited. I didn't even know they made testers like that... lol

where do i buy that reader? link to amazon plz
 
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Memory Patriot Viper Steel 4000MHz CL16 4x8GB (@3240MHz CL12.12.12.24 CR2T @ 1,48V)
Video Card(s) Titan V (~1650MHz @ 0.77V, HBM2 1GHz, Forced P2 state [OFF])
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@lynx29 I bought mine from Sandisk official shop : LINK, but I think this is Amazon link to it : LINK.
I will add here though, had to give pins on my old card a clean before it worked in this card reader without issue.
 
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tabascosauz

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Might not be a computer per say, but it cost about as much as a GPU. I finally gave in to temptation to have a real camera. Not just any camera, but a full frame DSLR. Still entry level, I'm not a professional, but I'm tired of the lackluster quality out of my phone.

Very nice! Full frame isn't necessary (and prohibitive pricing), but if you have one it's a big step up that you can really feel in a variety of different ways, there's no going back. Also nice to use lenses at their intended focal length instead of zoomed in due to APS-C. And mirrorless too! Super envious of the ergonomics.

Looking forward to seeing the fruits of your labour in here https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/the-tpu-darkroom-digital-slr-and-photography-club.76565/

:toast:
 
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Might not be a computer per say, but it cost about as much as a GPU. I finally gave in to temptation to have a real camera. Not just any camera, but a full frame DSLR. Still entry level, I'm not a professional, but I'm tired of the lackluster quality out of my phone.
View attachment 212557
Man, I must say I've had my eye on one of those once or twice. I still run a Canon M5, which I consider sort of a lost gem... that lineup didn't get its fair due from canon on either front. Bodies and lenses. I scavenged a new one from the carnage of its rapid liquidation. I like it because of how well matched it is to how I shoot. They DID put a lot of thought into it, which I personally appreciated. It's unique from a usability and ergonomics standpoint. You get way more and that than is typical for that level of ML APS-C. The design intent I think got under-recognized by reviewers and commentators. Users liked using them and picked em for a reason!

What we have instead of that is what you got, that's where the focus went to.

Such a contentious company in the camera world. At times I can see why, but they do make great cameras, and even better glass. Oh the lenses that go on that puppy. Some of those are pure art.
 

Space Lynx

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@lynx29 I bought mine from Sandisk official shop : LINK, but I think this is Amazon link to it : LINK.
I will add here though, had to give pins on my old card a clean before it worked in this card reader without issue.

I found a Type C to microsd card reader made by Kingston for $11, going to go with that one. Type C should be impossible to saturate speeds for a microsd card like that ancient full SD card adapter was doing. I'd bet money that was what was holding back my scores.

There is one made by Transcend as well as USB 3.1 to microsd reader for $7.49, but it has some scary reviews about the microsd card catching fire etc (I call bs) but you never know... I always liked Transcend, but for a few bucks more I'd rather have Type C anyway.
 

Ruru

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A Xeon X5650 for my 2nd rig :cool: paid 15eur including postage.
 
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Mussels

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Just waiting on the motherboard now...
View attachment 212556
oh god yes, what a CPU

also you're in for good times with that SSD, they feel like a total no compromise... amazing speeds, low temps (mine ran fine with no heatsink for a while doing large copies)
 
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oh god yes, what a CPU

also you're in for good times with that SSD, they feel like a total no compromise... amazing speeds, low temps (mine ran fine with no heatsink for a while doing large copies)
I would have gone for the 2TB version myself, but it's all good.

This should help my 5600x stretch it's legs, I think my 3000mhz kit is defective, SHIT performance from Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 memory and it is Samsung B die, not overclockable even the tiniest bit.
It might not be defective. 3000mhz is just not a good match for Ryzen, any Ryzen CPU. It would be fine for Intel because of the differences in how the memory is utilized. Ryzen needs at least 3200mhz bare minimum for good performance. That 3733mhz set you ordered will be a great upgrade!
 
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Graduated from onboard Supreme FX audio and upgraded to an Ifi Zen V2 external USB dac/amp for around US$170. Never used an external dac before and didn't know which one to buy but turns out this one is really great as a headphone user (AKG K240 Studio to be specific). Plug and play, no software required, doesn't even need external power. The sound is noticeably better quality in every aspect, e.g. beats have more power, easier to discern the differences between instruments, I'm also able to hear background sounds that weren't even there before. It's kind of like the audio equivalent of upgrading from 720p to 1080p.

 
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Because I'm a numpty, I somehow dropped an old Dell Optiplex on my Clevo laptop and damaged the screen. After experimenting to see how easy a screen replacement would be (hint, trivially easy), I decided this would be the perfect opportunity to do an upgrade I've wanted to do since I got it three years ago; upgrading to a high refresh rate screen.



I ended up getting an Innolux N156HHE-GA1, which is a 15.6" 1920x1080 120Hz TN panel using the 30 pin eDP connector. The laptop originally had an LG LP156WF6-SPK6, which is a 15.6" 1920x1080 60Hz IPS panel. It was $98.25 after tax and shipping.


Ugh, reflections.

Installation was trivial, and thankfully, everything, including brightness controls and high refresh rate, worked right away.



Unfortunately, there is a stuck pixel in the upper left quarter and some backlight weirdness in the left corners of the screen. Not sure what I should do about this.

I hate that the display industry has decided that these defects are okay. I get that LCDs were harder to manufacture years ago, but I'm pretty sure the techniques have been perfected by now, let alone 2017 (when this display was manufactured).

Not like I paid for all 2.073 million pixels and should expect them all to work. I mean, all 4.95 million pixels work perfectly on my Monoprice monitor, and that's not exactly a high-end brand.

The seller's dead pixel policy is a maximum of one to five dead pixels (which I think is bullshit, but whatever). This is a stuck pixel rather than a dead pixel, so I'm wondering if I should contact the seller and see if they'll do anything.

Currently trying software stuck pixel fixes. I have my doubts about their effectiveness, but what do I have to lose?

EDIT: Just looked at the ISO 9241 Class 1 standard, and this counts as a "dead" pixel. Looks like I'm SOL. Oh well.
 
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