Building Home Network Suggestions ?

[DrCR]

OP, just FYI, for those Ubiquiti Unifi APs, Ubiquiti makes it super easy to run the controller software on Ubuntu, if that's of interest to you.

 

[kayjay010101]

OP, just FYI, for those Ubiquiti Unifi APs, Ubiquiti makes it super easy to run the controller software on Ubuntu, if that's of interest to you.

Good shout, I run my controller on a debian VM. No real need for a dedicated controller box

 

[Durvelle27]

More piece arriving

 

[Durvelle27]

APs came in. I must say I’m so shocked by how small they are. I honestly thought they’d be bigger. I’m also sad they didn’t include Poe injectors

 

[Kursah]

There's usually different Part Numbers for ones that come with PoE injectors. That's how they've done it in the past, so if you wanted to save $20-30.

Looks like the UniFi 6's, at least in their current phase don't include a PoE adapter or P/N for an UniFi 6 w/ PoE injector at this point. But if they follow their previous track record they will. Here's a snip from the product page:

Any standard PoE injector that pushes the above voltage and can handle that wattage load (which is pretty average) should be just fine. Or you could always get a PoE switch, but if its only for a couple AP's that's kind of a waste. If you were doing more with PoE for access control, NVR/Surveillance, IP phone, etc. then it'd make sense IMO.

 

[Durvelle27]

There's usually different Part Numbers for ones that come with PoE injectors. That's how they've done it in the past, so if you wanted to save $20-30.

Looks like the UniFi 6's, at least in their current phase don't include a PoE adapter or P/N for an UniFi 6 w/ PoE injector at this point. But if they follow their previous track record they will. Here's a snip from the product page:

View attachment 184836

Any standard PoE injector that pushes the above voltage and can handle that wattage load (which is pretty average) should be just fine. Or you could always get a PoE switch, but if its only for a couple AP's that's kind of a waste. If you were doing more with PoE for access control, NVR/Surveillance, IP phone, etc. then it'd make sense IMO.

I only have the 2 POE devices. Nothing else is POE

 

[Kursah]

I've used many of these TPLink and they've been pretty solid little units. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Passive-Injector-Ethernet-Supports/dp/B07JCB5XWF

Or you can get the Ubiquiti ones, they are solid as well: https://store.ui.com/collections/operator-accessories/products/poe-injector-48vdc-24w

Just make sure you get the 48v ones from them, their first gen AP's used 24v and so there's TONS of 24v PoE injectors out there. Won't harm your AP's, they just won't power on and you'll have to replace the injectors.

 

[Durvelle27]

I've used many of these TPLink and they've been pretty solid little units. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Passive-Injector-Ethernet-Supports/dp/B07JCB5XWF

Or you can get the Ubiquiti ones, they are solid as well: https://store.ui.com/collections/operator-accessories/products/poe-injector-48vdc-24w

Just make sure you get the 48v ones from them, their first gen AP's used 24v and so there's TONS of 24v PoE injectors out there. Won't harm your AP's, they just won't power on and you'll have to replace the injectors.

I don't like the price


I was looking at this POE

UniFi PoE Adapter (15W) - Ubiquiti Store

An adapter that can power UniFi PoE devices with wireless mesh applications, or offload PoE switch power dependencies.

store.ui.com

 

[Kursah]

So if my maths are correct, output of 48v * 0.32A = 15.36W, you're coming up just over 1W short of the recommended wattage specifications.

802.3af standard is rated up to 15.5W iirc, and with the AP seeking more, you're pushing into PoE+ territory and the 802.3at-2009 or more recently 802.3-2012. Its easier to do the math to find the output than keep track of PoE and wifi standards lol!

Spend the extra few bucks and get the beefier PoE adapter. Odds are with that cheaper 802.3af one that it'll be fine, until its not. Then you'll have to order another one or a beefier one. Then you'll be spending another $20 instead of saving. Those adapters do work well in the right applications.

 

[Durvelle27]

So if my maths are correct, output of 48v * 0.32A = 15.36W, you're coming up just over 1W short of the recommended wattage specifications.

802.3af standard is rated up to 15.5W iirc, and with the AP seeking more, you're pushing into PoE+ territory and the 802.3at-2009 or more recently 802.3-2012. Its easier to do the math to find the output than keep track of PoE and wifi standards lol!

Spend the extra few bucks and get the beefier PoE adapter. Odds are with that cheaper 802.3af one that it'll be fine, until its not. Then you'll have to order another one or a beefier one. Then you'll be spending another $20 instead of saving. Those adapters do work well in the right applications.

I just looked back at your screen shot but it seems to be different specs

From my spec sheet this is what it shows

 

[Kursah]

The specs I pulled were for the UniFi 6 LR, not the Lite which matches your screenshot above. Sorry I assumed you were still getting LR for some reason. With that in mind, 12W of consumption, the 802.3af injectors will work fine.

 

[Durvelle27]

The specs I pulled were for the UniFi 6 LR, not the Lite which matches your screenshot above. Sorry I assumed you were still getting LR for some reason. With that in mind, 12W of consumption, the 802.3af injectors will work fine.

I changed my mind on the LR as alot of you guys said the LR would have interference issues in a normal neighborhood. So I opted to get multiple lites instead of LRs. And I steered from the HDs as the Antenna setups are nearly identical but the HD only supports WiFi 5

 

[jeremyshaw]

I changed my mind on the LR as alot of you guys said the LR would have interference issues in a normal neighborhood. So I opted to get multiple lites instead of LRs. And I steered from the HDs as the Antenna setups are nearly identical but the HD only supports WiFi 5

o.0 LR in WiFi 6 Unifi AP seems to be more analogous to the WiFi5/ac Unifi's HD, IMO. I'm probably wrong in that interpretation, though.

 

[Durvelle27]

o.0 LR in WiFi 6 Unifi AP seems to be more analogous to the WiFi5/ac Unifi's HD, IMO. I'm probably wrong in that interpretation, though.

I'm going to be honest

I have no clue about what you just said

 

[Aht0s]

I might be late, but there is also Aruba Instant ON available as well for APs. No controller, cloud based. If you plan to add PFSense, you can control https only to Aruba server and nothing else.
My AP and Ecobee are in the same VLAN as they are actively on the web. I just created separate rules for those devices. I have it at my brother's house so I don't have to drive there when he has issues, just pop the APP or https and look at what's going on. I don't think they are pricier than Ubiquiti and seeing you are in the states price should be competitive not so much here in Canada...

 

[Durvelle27]

More goodies

 

[Durvelle27]

It took a few days but I finally got opnsense installed. I could not get it to install as it kept erroring out. It would state the drive couldn’t mount with error 19. Luckily I found a thread describing how to get around it. Apparently the APU systems have an issue when trying to install from a USB 3.0 flash drive, but switching to a USB 2.0 drive and using the USB 2.0 port solved the issue

 

[DrCR]

issue when trying to install from a USB 3.0 flash drive, but switching to a USB 2.0 drive and using the USB 2.0 port solved the issue

Not the first time I've seen this, though I don't recall wherever else this may be encountered. Glad you got it sorted in the end. :thumbsup:

 

[Durvelle27]

Just wanted to give an update on this

This is the new layout diagram to get a much better idea

 

[eidairaman1]

Just wanted to give an update on this

This is the new layout diagram to get a much better idea

View attachment 215741

I would suggest putting in "smart panels" with Cat 7 or 8 lines along with coax.

And then to the outside where your dsl/fiber/cable lines from the isp come.

Just remember, don't run the lines right along side power lines due to emi (induction) which increases attenuation in the lines), proper clip/staple distance (12 inches+) and dont pinch the lines or kink them, no sharp angles.

From 2013-2014, I worked for AT&T and the management were assholes

You can use 3M scotch locks which are a permenant strong terminating connector, otherwise get quality punch down blocks.

Known as a 66 Block.

 

[Durvelle27]

I would suggest putting in "smart panels" with Cat 7 or 8 lines along with coax.

And then to the outside where your dsl/fiber/cable lines from the isp come.

Just remember, don't run the lines right along side power lines due to emi (induction) which increases attenuation in the lines), proper clip/staple distance (12 inches+) and dont pinch the lines or kink them, no sharp angles.

From 2013-2014, I worked for AT&T and the management were assholes

You can use 3M scotch locks which are a permenant strong terminating connector, otherwise get quality punch down blocks.

Known as a 66 Block.

Could you enlighten me, What's a smart panel

And like mentioned before is CAT7 or CAT8 really worth it over CAT6 as at this point I bought all CAT6 material

And about the emi. I won't be running the cables an licensed electrician will be

 

[TheLostSwede]

Could you enlighten me, What's a smart panel

And like mentioned before is CAT7 or CAT8 really worth it over CAT6 as at this point I bought all CAT6 material

And about the emi. I won't be running the cables an licensed electrician will be

Cat 7 isn't part of the Ethernet standard and Cat 8 is just going to make it harder to install, as it'll be stiffer cables, so my at least my opinion on the matter is no, at least not over Cat 6a cabling.

EMI can be weird, but if you run shielded cables (STP rather than UTP) it should be fine in most normal cases.

And I think he means patch panels.

 

[Durvelle27]

Cat 7 isn't part of the Ethernet standard and Cat 8 is just going to make it harder to install, as it'll be stiffer cables, so my at least my opinion on the matter is no, at least not over Cat 6a cabling.

EMI can be weird, but if you run shielded cables (STP rather than UTP) it should be fine in most normal cases.

And I think he means patch panels.

The cable I have is 1000FT CAT6 CMR UTP

I have a rack mount patch panel

 

[TheLostSwede]

The cable I have is 1000FT CAT6 CMR UTP

I have a rack mount patch panel

Right, that's what I have as well, but I hope you're aware that it can't do 10Gbps on runs longer than 55 meters?
Not sure how long each of your cable runs will be.
I only have short runs in already existing metal pipe ducts, so no real EMI issues.

 

[Durvelle27]

Right, that's what I have as well, but I hope you're aware that it can't do 10Gbps on runs longer than 55 meters?
Not sure how long each of your cable runs will be.
I only have short runs in already existing metal pipe ducts, so no real EMI issues.

10Gbps is no concern for me. My isp is only 1Gb and my in home server transfer rate doesn't have to be more than 5Gb