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automotive coolant for PC watercooling that mixes copper, aluminum, nickel, brass and silicone tubing

Yeah true story i forgott that Amis have no brain, thats the reason that they need foot, inch and gallones :laugh:
They even not ready to use the metric system.
those who have to take off their shoes to count "10's" use the metric system
"10 mm = " "10 cm = " hahaha
 
I read some place that some cultures used base 20, exactly because they used their toes as well as fingers.

But now we really are off topic.
 
Is it ok for EPDM rubber? It is what my EK tubing is made of

Last I checked EPDM and silicone have nothing to do with one another. If that wasn't the case then all O-rings and EPDM tubing would be going down the toilet real fast with Cryofuel.

The problem with Dexcool was that engines had plenty of silicone components that the 2-EHA would come into contact with.

I get the nostalgia factor of the passive rad but there's a reason why it's no longer a thing. You can easily get a HWLabs SR-2 that's exclusively optimized for low speed fans and run your 140mm fans at like 700rpm where they are literally inaudible.

IIRC EK still recommends the usual Cryofuel for its Fluid Gaming loops, but those are all-aluminium, not mixed. So you'd have to build everything with alu parts around the Reserator.
 
get that "inferior green stuff" mentioned. though i've heard a few ppl swear by the Honda pink.

fwiw, don't climb too far down the rabbit hole. wannabe chemists will come out of the woodwork to argue.
I second the use of the "pink" coolant, although it looks more red to me.
The green stuff is usually cheaper and has a smaller temperature range, the red stuff can handle greater extremes.
 
I thought anti-freeze in computer cooling loops was just to avoid corrosion and there was no real need to reduce the freezing temperature or extend the boiling temperature.

But what would I know, I'm all air cooling.

Then again, I'm also interested in its use for an engine.
 
I thought anti-freeze in computer cooling loops was just to avoid corrosion and there was no real need to reduce the freezing temperature or extend the boiling temperature.

But what would I know, I'm all air cooling.

Then again, I'm also interested in its use for an engine.

Tbh i doubt the loop would get cold enough for the anti-freeze to have any effect.
 
But there is a downside to anti-freeze, it reduces the heat capacity significantly; one really wants the anti-corrosive additives, but not the ethylene glycol.
 
I thought anti-freeze in computer cooling loops was just to avoid corrosion and there was no real need to reduce the freezing temperature or extend the boiling temperature.

But what would I know, I'm all air cooling.

Then again, I'm also interested in its use for an engine.
That's why I call it Coolant, not Anti-Freeze. it also increases the boiling point of the liquid within the loop.
 
One post here spoke of 25%

But coolants seem distinct from anti-freeze
Amazon.com: EKWB EK-CryoFuel Premix PC Coolant, 1000mL, Acid Green : Electronics
"Does not contain ethylene glycol"

So maybe the conclusion is that one should not use an 'automotive anti-freeze for PC water cooling'
but a surfactant might help

Amazon.com: Red Line (80204) Water Wetter - Coolant Additives - 12 Oz Bottle : Automotive
"Contains no ethylene glycol"
 
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Using the OPs reference
Antifreeze - Wikipedia
"One of the anti-corrosion components presented as sodium or potassium 2-ethylhexanoate and ethylhexanoic acid is incompatible with nylon 6,6 and silicone rubber, and is a known plasticizer."
exactly, that's what I meant.

i looked at hexus' review earlier, i'd want to try it out if i had it a box, really interesting set up. got the cpu block too?


E; oops forgot the link
I'm not sure I would recommend this setup to anyone. Yes, it works, it's silent and it can even cool a 140W CPU + 250W GPU with one additional 120mm radiator. Regarding CPU block... I use EK supreme HF. It's an older CPU block but you can use any modern CPU block you want. I have to mention that the biggest problem of this setup is preventing corrosion while keeping acceptable price of the coolant. You should replace the coolant at least once per 2 years and this setup takes 3 liters of coolant so spending up to 45 euro every 1-2 years is little bit too much for me. Original coolant from zalman was a disaster. It didn't prevent corrosion and it crystalized. The last coolant I tried was Mayhems X1. For results you will have wait until I replace it with some automotive coolant. If you have money to spare then perhaps consider airplex Gigant 3360 as silent radiator. It's full-copper, so you don't have to worry about corrosion.
 
I have used standard glycol at 25% solution level in distilled water with an additional surfactant in my loop for 10 + years and it’s only been changed twice and never had any sign of corrosion.

I have been using car coolant for the good part of 15+ years and never had any issue's. You should see how clean your parts are coming from the loop when ever you want to change something over. All parts look brand new inside! The car coolant I use is a 50% mix of glycol and distilled water but it comes like that straight out of the bottle. If you didn't know it glows under UV light too : )
 
So maybe the conclusion is that one should not use an 'automotive anti-freeze for PC water cooling'
You seem to be the one constantly referring to anti-freeze, the topic is coolant.
Automotive coolant is fine for use.
 
You seem to be the one constantly referring to anti-freeze, the topic is coolant.
Automotive coolant is fine for use.

Post 1 referred to anti-freeze as did post 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6; there were more.

I suspect people are still equating coolant with anti-freeze.
The car coolant I use is a 50% mix of glycol and distilled water but it comes like that straight out of the bottle.
 
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FWIW, if you're just using the coolant as a biocide/anticorrosive, you only need a 10% mix. ;)
 
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I have been using car coolant for the good part of 15+ years and never had any issue's. You should see how clean your parts are coming from the loop when ever you want to change something over. All parts look brand new inside! The car coolant I use is a 50% mix of glycol and distilled water but it comes like that straight out of the bottle. If you didn't know it glows under UV light too : )
Which coolant do you use? Do you have mix of metals in your loop? If yes, which metals exactly? Now I'm really interested.
 
how about you just don't mix metals in you loop lol
this is not rocket surgery
piecing a loop together with components from 37 different vendors is nothing but headache
 
Hi. I need an advice which automotive coolant is good for PC water cooling loop that consists of aluminum, copper, nickel, brass, silicone tubing, acetal and plastic pump. Getting rid of aluminum is not an option for me. I don't want to use coolants that are made by PC watercooling companies because of high price and weak anti-corrosive properties (and I need 3 liters (0.66 gallons) of coolant for my loop). I'm in Europe, so it has to be something that's available on EU market. For example VW group has several coolant standards: G11, G12, G12+, G12++, G13, Mercedes has their own standard and so on. So I don't know which should i choose. For example on wikipedia is written that sodium or potassium 2-ethylhexanoate act as plasticizer for silicone rubber so such coolants are not an option.

Thanks!

Just sayin, it never hurts to look at a MSDS once in a while


Characteristics:

- Compatible with Acrylic, PETG, POM Acetal, rubber (NBR, EPDM, and Norprene) materials


Premixes are more or less the same stuff.
 
Just sayin, it never hurts to look at a MSDS once in a while


Characteristics:

- Compatible with Acrylic, PETG, POM Acetal, rubber (NBR, EPDM, and Norprene) materials


Premixes are more or less the same stuff.
I already read that. You will find there that it contains sodium 2-ethylhexanoate. As we already discussed here, it's not compatible with silicone tubing.
 
I already read that. You will find there that it contains sodium 2-ethylhexanoate. As we already discussed here, it's not compatible with silicone tubing.

Then why not just change the tubing? Considering that is the path of least resistance.
 
Then why not just change the tubing? Considering that is the path of least resistance.
As I already explained here, I don't want to use any coolant from PC watercooling companies because of high price and weak anti-corrosive properties.
 
Why not just buy neat antifreeze and dilute it yourself with deionised or distilled water then?
and now we are back to my initial question which I wanted to answer by this thread: which one? VW group G11 or G12 or G12+ or G12++ or G13? Or GM Dex-Cool? Or coolant from Mercedes or from other automotive brands?
If you search on internet discussion about automotive coolants it's always just about which coolant is recommended for which car. That doesn't help me at all. I wasn't able to find exact chemical composition of those standardized coolants ie. G11, G12, G12+, G12++, G13 etc.
 
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I've used red Zerex (for a toyota truck) before and had no issues, the tubing I used wasn't clear but black and somewhat hard to bend
 
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