Your PC ATM

[Outback Bronze]

Got bored..

Who loves water cooling : )

And for anybody who missed my last project.

 

[phill]

5 series cards or 6 series cards in the first two pics there @Outback Bronze ??

Love it!! How's the GPU core and vram temps??

 

[Outback Bronze]

5 series cards or 6 series cards in the first two pics there @Outback Bronze ??

Love it!! How's the GPU core and vram temps??

5 series matey. Two XT's and two non XT all reference. Temps are great with fans on silent. 47core and 52 junction all cards. Not bad for the Perth summer mate : )

Those corsair Blocks are awesome to work with. They come with pre installed pads on the block. Ill edit with pic later. Cheers

Edit:

Had fun putting the cards (4) together. I found the easiest way is to put them together first then place all four of them on the motherboard.

A little tricky..

 

[MxPhenom 216]

What liquid was he using for the system?

I don't use anything that is conductive as a matter of course but I do just tend to use deionised water and then just different coloured tubing for the effect I'm after. Been water cooling for the last 10 years and a bit and I've never had any leaks with the tubing coming off. I have however had a leak because a slightly loose barb I hadn't tightened and I do remember that pouring water all over the board, GPU, and such, but that just carried on working. I was rather impressed with it to be honest!

I just dried it off the hardware and checked the barbs for being loose and powered it back up, worked fine and carried on for a few years afterward

Well I would suggest something of the following to try. Grab a spare loop if possible and put it together so it could run away from the system with the hardware in it (one way I choose to test for leaks funnily enough!) and see.

Also when putting the tubing on the barb, I have a small cup of hot water to soften the tubing so when it cools down, it seems to clamp harder onto the barb. Been doing it this way for as long as I can remember, I've not had anything popping off the barbs or anything yet and touch wood, I leave these rigs on a lot of the time with our WCG Rosetta and FAH crunching teams All of my higher end systems are setup with water cooling this way. As long as the barbs are tight (but not overly tight in the block/pump/res etc.) I don't believe there should be a problem.

Have a play around with it, give it a test with an old PSU and any spare parts you might have for another loop and see how you go. Since you could run just the pump/res/rad and block together without it connecting to a system (I guess you'd be able to use the PSU trick so the PSU powers up but doesn't power the system on....) you'll soon see and find out if there's any problems. I stick with 1/2" barbs as they are a better flow rate and it saves having so many different sizes for the barbs, tubes and so on

Judging by the tubing and the barbs, I'd guesstimate that you'd be fine, but again, try before you do anything with hardware inside or connected too it As I mentioned to @MxPhenom 216 I only use deionised water so there shouldn't be any issues with conductivity if things do go sideways... Always a personal choice but I've not lost any hardware with it yet Plus it doesn't stain the tubing which is always handy if you'd like to re-use the tubing

No matter what you use for fluid it will become ionized after some time in the system due to being in contact with metals. It's just dumb not having anything holding the tube on the barb.

 

[TheoneandonlyMrK]

No matter what you use for fluid it will become ionized after some time in the system due to being in contact with metals. It's just dumb not having anything holding the tube on the barb.

I agree but bit harsh, it only takes a blockage to defeat that seal too , with two pumps one blockage I got pipes expanding , it had compression fittings, I've seen blocks that leaked in that case though too, nightmare, it was mine.

 

[Deleted member 24505]

No matter what you use for fluid it will become ionized after some time in the system due to being in contact with metals. It's just dumb not having anything holding the tube on the barb.

My 9.5mm id tube is very hard to pull off the barbs, i had to slice it in fact as it was so hard to pull off, so i doubt it would leak. The only thing is, as the water temp goes up, the tube will be softer. I do put zip ties on mine, just to be safe.

 

[lexluthermiester]

No matter what you use for fluid it will become ionized after some time in the system due to being in contact with metals.

That is not correct. Many water based loop fluids never ionize. Additionally, there is an upper limit to how much fluid ionization will take place in a custom loop. It's never as severe as most make it out to be.

 

[stinger608]

That is not correct. Many water based loop fluids never ionize. Additionally, there is an upper limit to how much fluid ionization will take place in a custom loop. It's never as severe as most make it out to be.

That is certainly correct. I had a system with just purified water and a silver coil for about 3 years and it was still as clear and clean as the day I got it first fired up.

 

[MxPhenom 216]

That is certainly correct. I had a system with just purified water and a silver coil for about 3 years and it was still as clear and clean as the day I got it first fired up.

The water gets ionized by the silver coil. Thats how silver kill coils work. Silver ions get into the water to prevent biological growth. Purified water with just a silver kill coil will do damage to water blocks with nickel coatings too.

That is not correct. Many water based loop fluids never ionize. Additionally, there is an upper limit to how much fluid ionization will take place in a custom loop. It's never as severe as most make it out to be.

It's absolutely true. Especially if you use just distilled water it will become ionized/metals leaching into the fluid.

 

[jallenlabs]

Latest build for myself. All Intel. There are a few little things left to do, but its a big step up from my venerable 8700k build.
12700k >Noctua Chromax
64GB Gskill 3200 cas 14 Samsung Bdie
ASRock z690 Steel Legend
Intel Optane 900p x 3
Intel Optane 800p
EVGA 3060ti FTW
Seasonic plat 850w with custom length cable mod cables
5.5" secondary touch screen on side
All Noctua Chromax fans
Phanteks Evolv X

 

[MxPhenom 216]

Latest build for myself. All Intel. There are a few little things left to do, but its a big step up from my venerable 8700k build.
12700k >Noctua Chromax
64GB Gskill 3200 cas 14 Samsung Bdie
ASRock z690 Steel Legend
Intel Optane 900p x 3
Intel Optane 800p
EVGA 3060ti FTW
Seasonic plat 850w with custom length cable mod cables
5.5" secondary touch screen on side
All Noctua Chromax fans
Phanteks Evolv X

View attachment 231739

View attachment 231740
View attachment 231741

I love those Phantek Evolv cases. Had one myself a little while back. They have a lot of character to them.

 

[lexluthermiester]

It's absolutely true. Especially if you use just distilled water it will become ionized/metals leaching into the fluid.

Hey, if you want to keep believing the myth, go right ahead. You're the one wasting time, effort and money changing fluid that shouldn't/doesn't really need it. Of course, the fact they you buy into that myth likely also means that you don't use properly formulated fluids, or perhaps you use that decoritive crap that is being sold high and wide. Just a bit of reality, decorative fluids and decorative additives are BAD for loops. Don't believe me? Go watch some of the video's over at JayzTwoCents where he tried cleaning some of that stuff. Here's a hint as to what causes that kind of damage, it's not the water or metals "leaching" into the fluid.

 

[MxPhenom 216]

Hey, if you want to keep believing the myth, go right ahead. You're the one wasting time, effort and money changing fluid that shouldn't/doesn't really need it. Of course, the fact they you buy into that myth likely also means that you don't use properly formulated fluids, or perhaps you use that decoritive crap that is being sold high and wide. Just a bit of reality, decorative fluids and decorative additives are BAD for loops. Don't believe me? Go watch some of the video's over at JayzTwoCents where he tried cleaning some of that stuff. Here's a hint as to what causes that kind of damage, it's not the water or metals "leaching" into the fluid.

We are talking about ionization in water and its potential of killing system components if a connection comes undone due to no securing mechanism on a barb. Yet you deny that potential for whatever damn reason. The fuck you going on about now. Jayztwocents videos? Okay bud.

For the record ive had cleaner loops from the "decorative coolant" the last few years than I ever did with straight distilled or deionized water with silver coil/pt nuke etc.

 

[Flyordie]

Hey, if you want to keep believing the myth, go right ahead. You're the one wasting time, effort and money changing fluid that shouldn't/doesn't really need it. Of course, the fact they you buy into that myth likely also means that you don't use properly formulated fluids, or perhaps you use that decoritive crap that is being sold high and wide. Just a bit of reality, decorative fluids and decorative additives are BAD for loops. Don't believe me? Go watch some of the video's over at JayzTwoCents where he tried cleaning some of that stuff. Here's a hint as to what causes that kind of damage, it's not the water or metals "leaching" into the fluid.

Based on my experience- using water that isn't distilled WILL damage the loop. Thats the only time I've seen it happen and do severe damage. I learned the hard way. I used "purified but de-mineralized water" with a biocide. USE DISTILLED. lol Also, water will pick up metals over time. It'd take a year or 2 for it to raise the conductivity if there isn't mixed metals in a loop to do damage though. Mixed metals are where it'll VERY RAPIDLY speed that process up.

After that little oopsie.. bought EK's CryoFuel Clear Concentrate and distilled water. So far, loop looks great after about 6 months or so. I'll let ya'll know how it holds up over the next 6 months.

As for how I cleaned out the loop.. it was a 2 day job.. -_-

Radiator, pump and res I flushed with every cleaner I had. lol. Even ran isopropyl through the pump, res and rad at a 50/50 distilled water mix then drained, disassembled and let dry. Rinsed and flushed with vinegar water then distilled water.

Disassembled the water block and deep cleaned it with anti-bacterial soap and a nylon brush. Rinsed it off with vinegar water and then distilled water.

Re-assembled, filled with the CryoFuel and its as clear still as the day I put it together.

 

[lexluthermiester]

We are talking about ionization in water and its potential of killing system components if a connection comes undone due to no securing mechanism on a barb.

No, that is not what the discussion was about. You're not moving the goal posts.

with straight distilled or deionized water with silver coil/pt nuke etc.

I didn't mention Silver anything, that was another user. Context is important.

Based on my experience- using water that isn't distilled WILL damage the loop.

Never said it wouldn't. What I said was that there is a limit to how much ionization can take place in loop fluid/water.

And now we return everyone back to their regularly scheduled thread topic.

 

[Flyordie]

Never said it wouldn't. What I said was that there is a limit to how much ionization can take place in loop fluid/water.

And now we return everyone back to their regularly scheduled thread topic.

But there is more to that- Yes, there are limits to how much in a given time period depending on the variables. Either way, my reference to you wasn't about the ionization stuff. it was more towards the algae growth and biologics that grow in a loop that doesn't use distilled water.

 

[Deleted member 24505]

But there is more to that- Yes, there are limits to how much in a given time period depending on the variables. Either way, my reference to you wasn't about the ionization stuff. it was more towards the algae growth and biologics that grow in a loop that doesn't use distilled water.

I used deionised with 50ml of 50/50 premix car coolant, so in theory 25ml of glycol, as distilled is for some reason pretty hard to buy in the UK/my city now. I may at some point just buy premix but it can cost much more then deionised even for clear. Loop is still clear, i will see how it goes. My loop is all copper/brass rads with nickel coated CPU block, copper GPU block.

 

[lexluthermiester]

I used deionised with 50ml of 50/50 premix car coolant, so in theory 25ml of glycol, as distilled is for some reason pretty hard to buy in the UK/my city now. I may at some point just buy premix but it can cost much more then deionised even for clear. Loop is still clear, i will see how it goes. My loop is all copper/brass rads with nickel coated CPU block, copper GPU block.

I've been recommending this for years. The coolant we put in vehicles is perfectly suited for use as a coolant for PC liquid cooling. The formulation is ideal.

 

[Outback Bronze]

The coolant we put in vehicles

I wouldn't put anything else. Been doing it for 15+ years now without one issue.

 

[phill]

No matter what you use for fluid it will become ionized after some time in the system due to being in contact with metals. It's just dumb not having anything holding the tube on the barb.

Well I'm not getting into do's dont's with people with how they do things (each to their own I believe) but in 10 years or more I've been water cooling, I've never had any issues doing it this way, so I'm not worried in the slightest

As long as you do your leak testing as you are meant to do, there should be no problems. There's always a filter you can install so that if there is any rubbish in the systems, you can catch it in one place and it won't go anywhere. It'll take a load of pressure to blow off a connection and again, not worried at all Buy good quality components, there's half a battle right there. Make sure they are clean before you use, a bit more of a battle... And so on Prep is always important just like double checking before you press the go button...

5 series matey. Two XT's and two non XT all reference. Temps are great with fans on silent. 47core and 52 junction all cards. Not bad for the Perth summer mate : )

Those corsair Blocks are awesome to work with. They come with pre installed pads on the block. Ill edit with pic later. Cheers

Edit:

View attachment 231658

Had fun putting the cards (4) together. I found the easiest way is to put them together first then place all four of them on the motherboard.

A little tricky..

View attachment 231660

I did wonder what the models where, I thought back to our convo's before and thought I could have sworn he said 5700 cards !!

The two I had seemed to be a little hit and miss with the VRAM temps, Was hitting about 10 to 15C less on one of the cards if I recall, I think one might have been hitting between 86 and 90C which under water seemed way to high for me... Still, need to take them apart at some point and see if I can re-do the pads I think Be fun as I've never really touched many GPUs for water cooling...

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Well I'm not getting into do's dont's with people with how they do things (each to their own I believe) but in 10 years or more I've been water cooling, I've never had any issues doing it this way, so I'm not worried in the slightest

As long as you do your leak testing as you are meant to do, there should be no problems. There's always a filter you can install so that if there is any rubbish in the systems, you can catch it in one place and it won't go anywhere. It'll take a load of pressure to blow off a connection and again, not worried at all Buy good quality components, there's half a battle right there. Make sure they are clean before you use, a bit more of a battle... And so on Prep is always important just like double checking before you press the go button...


I did wonder what the models where, I thought back to our convo's before and thought I could have sworn he said 5700 cards !!

The two I had seemed to be a little hit and miss with the VRAM temps, Was hitting about 10 to 15C less on one of the cards if I recall, I think one might have been hitting between 86 and 90C which under water seemed way to high for me... Still, need to take them apart at some point and see if I can re-do the pads I think Be fun as I've never really touched many GPUs for water cooling...

Just out of interest, how tight is that tube on your barbs? what is the OD of the barb and the ID of the tube?

 

[phill]

The barb size is 1/2" @Tigger and the tubling is 7/16", so just under the 1/2" size. I usually warm the tube with a bit of hot water to help it go over the barb, then when it dries, it literally clings to it. It's an utter arse to remove but works without fault

The only leaks I've ever had is when the barbs themselves aren't tightened enough or a fitting leaks.. Both are quite rare as I usually do check everything before I leak test but even when you are filling up the loop, if there's a leak then, you'll find it

I've been known to make a loop (especially one for a test bench) in place, then remove from the system and power the pump on from another system to leak test it that way. Then when it's tested enough and I've got rid of some/most of the bubbles, I'll install it into the system. I do rarely leave it running for more than 30 minutes on the first turn on to test it..

 

[Deleted member 24505]

The barb size is 1/2" @Tigger and the tubling is 7/16", so just under the 1/2" size. I usually warm the tube with a bit of hot water to help it go over the barb, then when it dries, it literally clings to it. It's an utter arse to remove but works without fault

The only leaks I've ever had is when the barbs themselves aren't tightened enough or a fitting leaks.. Both are quite rare as I usually do check everything before I leak test but even when you are filling up the loop, if there's a leak then, you'll find it

I've been known to make a loop (especially one for a test bench) in place, then remove from the system and power the pump on from another system to leak test it that way. Then when it's tested enough and I've got rid of some/most of the bubbles, I'll install it into the system. I do rarely leave it running for more than 30 minutes on the first turn on to test it..

Like i said, i had to cut mine to get it off as it was so tight on. I have kept a couple of foot of the EK tube as spare just in case i have to fuck about with it again, though i am gonna try and leave it alone for a few weeks now to see how it settles down. even though it is so tight i still get nervous so have put zips on for now.

Your barbs are 1.6mm larger than the tube ID so i can't see it leaking at all.

 

[phill]

Like i said, i had to cut mine to get it off as it was so tight on. I have kept a couple of foot of the EK tube as spare just in case i have to fuck about with it again, though i am gonna try and leave it alone for a few weeks now to see how it settles down. even though it is so tight i still get nervous so have put zips on for now.

Your barbs are 1.6mm larger than the tube ID so i can't see it leaking at all.

I think it would take a massive amount of pressure to push them off and I think the loop pressure could possibly be around what, 10 PSI at the highest?? I have no idea... I think if anything was caught/blocked etc. in the loop, the temps would show and it would shut down before then anyways

 

[MxPhenom 216]

No, that is not what the discussion was about. You're not moving the goal posts.

I didn't mention Silver anything, that was another user. Context is important.


Never said it wouldn't. What I said was that there is a limit to how much ionization can take place in loop fluid/water.

And now we return everyone back to their regularly scheduled thread topic.

It is 100% what its about. Theres no goal posts being moved, but perhaps difficulties reading.

I think it would take a massive amount of pressure to push them off and I think the loop pressure could possibly be around what, 10 PSI at the highest?? I have no idea... I think if anything was caught/blocked etc. in the loop, the temps would show and it would shut down before then anyways

Im just saying, my buddy did this. 1/2 ID barb with 7/16 ID tubing and it came apart within first couple weeks. Ive seen people do this more than once with no problems. It just took one time where it wrecked an entire system for me to regard it as rather risky for zero good reason at all.