Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming Component Identification

[sam_86314]

So I decided to see how hard it would be to get the VRAM and VRM heatsinks off my old GTX 1070. I want to take the aftermarket cooler from this card and put it on my new one.

Unfortunately while trying to remove one, I ripped a component off of the board.

If anyone can identify what this component is, please let me know.

Also, can anyone give me advice on how to remove these heatsinks? I used the thermally conductive glue that came with my Accelero cooler.

Also, this looks like a component with some redundancy, and I wonder if the card would still function without it.

 

[R-T-B]

I can't tell you much more than that's some part of the VRM, and probably important.

A pro electronics repair guy may be able to reattach it.

 

[sam_86314]

I can't tell you much more than that's some part of the VRM, and probably important.

A pro electronics repair guy may be able to reattach it.

I thought it looked like a capacitor. It's polarized, though I can't find anything online with the markings on it.

The card does still work without it. To what extent, I don't know. I have it under load right now and so far nothing out of the ordinary.

Yeah, I know some people who could replace it.

 

[R-T-B]

I thought it looked like a capacitor. It's polarized, though I can't find anything online with the markings on it.

The card does still work without it. To what extent, I don't know. I have it under load right now and so far nothing out of the ordinary.

Yeah, I know some people who could replace it.

Maybe just one VRM phase is incomplete. If it had a good VRM to begin with, it may be able to limp by with that one disabled no problem.

I have no advice re the thermal glue, unfortunately.

 

[sam_86314]

Maybe just one VRM phase is incomplete. If it had a good VRM to begin with, it may be able to limp by with that one disabled no problem.

I also noticed that there are several blank spots above it for what looks like the same component on a different card (maybe the GTX 1080 uses the same PCB).

Found this image of the PCB for the same card.

 

[R-T-B]

You may be right that it is some kind of inline capacitor. Either way, I'd assume with it gone though, that one VRM "lane" won't complete its circuit. Which means you'll have one less phase.

Might not be a big deal. It all depends on how overbuilt the card was.

 

[sam_86314]

I have no advice re the thermal glue, unfortunately.

I've now pretty much accepted that I won't be able to revert this card back to stock. I'm sick of breaking things.

 

[R-T-B]

I've now pretty much accepted that I won't be able to revert this card back to stock. I'm sick of breaking things.

There may be someone with better advice, but yeah, hold off for right now. GPUs are like gold right now so treat as such.

 

[Caring1]

Get it soldered back on in the same orientation as the others.
As long as the small metal parts sticking out the side make contact with the solder it should be fine.

 

[Outback Bronze]

maybe the GTX 1080 uses the same PCB

Yes I can confirm they have the same PCB as I've had both models and had to buy a EK GTX 1080 G1 Block to fit my GTX 1070 G1.

 

[looniam]

Get it soldered back on in the same orientation as the others.
As long as the small metal parts sticking out the side make contact with the solder it should be fine.

^this.
get a soldering iron, wick it (pcb pads) clean and put it back on.

have fun.

 

[Jacky_BEL]

It is a capacitor , SMD tantalum / polymer , 330 denotes capacity.

What is an SMD capacitor?

SMD tantalum capacitor markings​

The markings on SMD tantalum capacitors normally consist of three numbers. The first two form the significant figures, and the third is the multiplier. Values are in picofarads.

Tantalum Capacitor

 

[sam_86314]

Alright, so I took the card to an electrical engineer friend. We determined that it's a 33pF cap. After a failed attempt to solder it back in place, and finding that the smallest tantalum cap he had was 4.7uF, we decided that it might be better to just leave it off for now. I mean, a small gap in between wires will have a capacitance of a few pF anyway. I'm sure these caps are just for power filtering, and all the other ones are intact.

The card still works under load at stock settings. Gonna do some testing to see how well it works.

 

[Jacky_BEL]

Looking at the PCB photo's from nvidia's reference card , they used 47pF capacitors.
And it seems the capacitors are all in parallel.
It is part of the power delivery circuitry
Missing one is not ideal , but as long as you don't push the card into it's limit , then it will hold.
If you decide you want to solder the capacitor back on anyhow , try to get it tested first to see if it is not broken from mechanical stress when ripped off the board.

 

[sam_86314]

Looking at the PCB photo's from nvidia's reference card , they used 47pF capacitors.
And it seems the capacitors are all in parallel.
It is part of the power delivery circuitry
Missing one is not ideal , but as long as you don't push the card into it's limit , then it will hold.
If you decide you want to solder the capacitor back on anyhow , try to get it tested first to see if it is not broken from mechanical stress when ripped off the board.

I've had the card under several different 3D loads at stock settings (100% utilization, 2000MHz, 150-160W power consumption), and so far it's been perfectly fine.

I'll probably try sourcing a new cap. When it broke off the board, it got sheared off, so the terminals were sheared right where they go into the plastic.