What's your latest tech purchase?

[Mussels]

Did anyone ever use these for voice calls?

I did, but it was worse quality than a regular handset

just got this, my TX750M is 80% gold too but not full modular which this is. Is the RM series better than TX?
View attachment 235468

Mines pretty solid (750 RMi)

The digital stuff the i has is a sham, as its too inaccurate to trust, and i get a little hint of coil whine at times thanks to a 3090 smashing power draw, but otherwise it's been solid for years, and the fan barely span up until the 3090 came along

 

[Deleted member 24505]

I did, but it was worse quality than a regular handset


Mines pretty solid (750 RMi)

The digital stuff the i has is a sham, as its too inaccurate to trust, and i get a little hint of coil whine at times thanks to a 3090 smashing power draw, but otherwise it's been solid for years, and the fan barely span up until the 3090 came along

Your specs say Hx750i, but you replied 750 RMi

ordered these too

x3 90's

 

[Mussels]

Your specs say Hx750i, but you replied 750 RMi

ordered these too

x3 90's

uhh.... i need to check my PSU

specs: 1
memory: 0


Edit: done

 

[Deleted member 24505]

uhh.... i need to check my PSU

specs: 1
memory: 0


Edit: done

That HXi is nice though. can you still switch single/multi rail on them?

 

[Mussels]

That HXi is nice though. can you still switch single/multi rail on them?

That's a software trigger really, virtual rails in a way - just an OCP safety feature that goes per rail instead of total

Mine hasnt been USB connected for years since the readings were bullshit, i'm unsure if that setting is still available in modern iCue

 

[Deleted member 24505]

That's a software trigger really, virtual rails in a way - just an OCP safety feature that goes per rail instead of total

Mine hasnt been USB connected for years since the readings were bullshit, i'm unsure if that setting is still available in modern iCue

I dig the idea of the USB connection, but unless it is accurate, it's pointless. The RMx is still better than my old TX, even though that was pretty good(according to reviews) at least i can now get a proper set of corsair custom cables including the ATX24

 

[Mussels]

Under 100W load, it was off by around 30W

I contacted corsairs support who said they are not meant to be used as diagnostic tools and are only estimates... and that started me being pissed at corsair

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Under 100W load, it was off by around 30W

I contacted corsairs support who said they are not meant to be used as diagnostic tools and are only estimates... and that started me being pissed at corsair

Estimates Oh man ffs. they may as well have had a circuit that guesses the voltages, actually, i suppose they have. Not surprised you don't bother connecting the USB

 

[Mussels]

Estimates Oh man ffs. they may as well have had a circuit that guesses the voltages, actually, i suppose they have. Not surprised you don't bother connecting the USB

the more load there is, the more accurate they are - useless, in the end

 

[sam_86314]

Scored this on Craigslist today for $40.

I'd been wanting to get an NH-U14S, so when I saw one on Craigslist for half of MSRP, I had to have it.

Unfortunately, it doesn't have AM4 mounting hardware; something I didn't find out until I already had my old R1 off because I'm shortsighted.

While the seller did say it had it, I'm not gonna make a big deal of it. $40 for the cooler and $10 for a mounting kit are still much cheaper than getting it new. Just means I have to wait 30 years for Amazon's two-day shipping before I can upgrade.

The funny thing is after remounting my R1, max temps dropped from around 85C to 75C under an AVX2 stress test. Maybe I scared it by threatening to replace it, or maybe I just have it mounted better now.

 

[Space Lynx]

Bought this keyboard as my old ones started to get intermittent problems with some keys. I tried soldering it but then decided to buy new keyboard anyway. This one is very cheap at RM110 or around 26 dollar.

View attachment 235373

This is the main reason I bought this keyboard. Not many keyboard uses MX Black anymore. This seems like an new old stock, the letter imprint looks yellowish. Red is too light, Blue is freaking noisy so not much else choices for me. Even this Black feels lighter than my old keyboard, but still sufficiently chunky for me.

View attachment 235374

hey 26 bucks for a cherry mx black keyboard??? that is a steal!!! and it has lot of macros too, that would come in handy for Final Fantasy XIV which I am playing as I type this.

Scored this on Craigslist today for $40.

I'd been wanting to get an NH-U14S, so when I saw one on Craigslist for half of MSRP, I had to have it.

Unfortunately, it doesn't have AM4 mounting hardware; something I didn't find out until I already had my old R1 off because I'm shortsighted.

While the seller did say it had it, I'm not gonna make a big deal of it. $40 for the cooler and $10 for a mounting kit are still much cheaper than getting it new. Just means I have to wait 30 years for Amazon's two-day shipping before I can upgrade.

The funny thing is after remounting my R1, max temps dropped from around 85C to 75C under an AVX2 stress test. Maybe I scared it by threatening to replace it, or maybe I just have it mounted better now.

man all of you are finding great deals!!! (if it were me i'd wash that with water and Dawn Spray soap)

 

[Mussels]

Dark line is literally a shadow, twere sunny in thine location
"Samsung Galaxy Watch" $50 - they thought it was the old original version (Galaxy gear) but this is the "no gear" name, which is from 2018 and still sold today

It's the 42mm LTE variant

It goes for a little higher, locally

 

[TheLostSwede]

just got this, my TX750M is 80% gold too but not full modular which this is. Is the RM series better than TX?
View attachment 235468

I have the non x version and it's been rock solid for 3-4 years now.

 

[Chomiq]

My Hisense kicked the bucket so I bought a cheap LG to replace it.. from 1080p to 4K.. I think they need to make more dumb tvs.. having to log into a tv to use it is lame.. my Hisense was the same. Overall it is waay better than what I had before

My space is a bit of a mess..

View attachment 235466

Make sure you set white balance on TV to Warm 50, as it looks way too blue in the photo.

 

[Kanan]

Scored this on Craigslist today for $40.

I'd been wanting to get an NH-U14S, so when I saw one on Craigslist for half of MSRP, I had to have it.

Unfortunately, it doesn't have AM4 mounting hardware; something I didn't find out until I already had my old R1 off because I'm shortsighted.

While the seller did say it had it, I'm not gonna make a big deal of it. $40 for the cooler and $10 for a mounting kit are still much cheaper than getting it new. Just means I have to wait 30 years for Amazon's two-day shipping before I can upgrade.

The funny thing is after remounting my R1, max temps dropped from around 85C to 75C under an AVX2 stress test. Maybe I scared it by threatening to replace it, or maybe I just have it mounted better now.

If you can prove to Noctua that you have a AM4 CPU they will send you one free of charge, is what I did for my NH-D14 back then!

 

[Shou Miko]

I canceled the order with the asus b660g, it is useless to buy a B Board for 200€ for BCLK OC.
Next thing is its for DDR5.

If i want Alder lake its cheaper to buy a 12600 non k cause it clocks up to 4.8 GHz and a cheap H610 for 90€

As comparison:

4 Cores
Asus B660G 200€
16GB DDR5 135€
I3 12100 @ 5 GHz 112€
--------------------------
447€

vs

6 Cores
Gigabyte H610 93€
16GB DDR4 60€
I5 12600 241€
--------------------
394€

200 eur for a B660 sounds expensive when you can get a MSI Pro Z690-A DDR4 for under 200 eur.

Link: https://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/OffersOfProduct/201662102_-pro-z690-a-ddr4-msi.html

The DDR5 version is like 239,xx eur: https://www.galaxus.de/de/s1/produc...o&utm_medium=cpc&idealoid=2202070835244790058

Så the B660 boards sounds too expensive.

 

[de.das.dude]

Bought some Arctic MX 4 since i thought my Cooler master paste which is 10 years old at this point, wasnt doing well.. Ryzen seems to shoot up in its temps quite quickly compared to my FX8320.
Even though it is on liquid cooling. The fx used to go up gradually.

but it didnt make much difference haha. Guess the Ryzens heat is much more concentrated

 

[Chomiq]

Bought some Arctic MX 4 since i thought my Cooler master paste which is 10 years old at this point, wasnt doing well.. Ryzen seems to shoot up in its temps quite quickly compared to my FX8320.
Even though it is on liquid cooling. The fx used to go up gradually.

but it didnt make much difference haha. Guess the Ryzens heat is much more concentrated

Update your motherboard BIOS to the latest stable one (2.10 according to support page). AGESA 1.2.0.3c really solved the temperature spike issue for me.

Make sure you research before, just so you don't get stuck with wonky BIOS.

 

[TheLostSwede]

Got some new case fans. RGB will be set to off...

 

[Kanan]

Got some new case fans. RGB will be set to off...

View attachment 235590

They don't have ones without RGB?

 

[TheLostSwede]

They don't have ones without RGB?

Yes, but with static colour LEDs.
The older ML ones were available without LEDs.

 

[Chomiq]

Got some new case fans. RGB will be set to off...

View attachment 235590

How are they wired? Strangely Corsair isn't really showing any cables in the product shots.

 

[Palladium]

Acer XB273U GX monitor.

My worst tech purchase in a very long time. Rubbish QC and dead pixel warranty policy, 240Hz is not all that great over current 150Hz and it has this weird grainy-ness on the panel that makes my eyes bleed that never occurred on my previous monitors.

 

[Kanan]

Acer XB273U GX monitor.

My worst tech purchase in a very long time. Rubbish QC and dead pixel warranty policy, 240Hz is not all that great over current 150Hz and it has this weird grainy-ness on the panel that makes my eyes bleed that never occurred on my previous monitors.

I watched a video from LTT (actually useful video from them) that showed 144 to 360Hz is significant while 144 or 165 to 240 simply isn't.

I wanna add, that people should stop looking at this like a steady curve upwards. 60 to 144 or even just to 100 is very significant, just like in the good old CRT days where everyone played on 100. But everything higher just is like a drop in the water of a already big bucket. 360 is so much more that it helps then, but 240 it wasn't worth mentioning. Nice placebo "improvement".

 

[INSTG8R]

I watched a video from LTT (actually useful video from them) that showed 144 to 360Hz is significant while 144 or 165 to 240 simply isn't.

Yeah my new UW has what I consider a rather poor Freesync range of 60-165 what saves it the LFRC which kicks in instantly the moment it drops below 60. As for the 165 max really means nothing to me. I’m quite satisfied as long as it’s doing at least 70FPs if it’s higher, great but it doesn’t matter to me as necessary.., The ONLY a thing absolutely matters to me is that there is no tearing.. it literally makes me nauseous….