The RX 6000 series Owners' Club

[Fatal Fighter]

By the way, how is the flow rate of your pump with multiple blocks.
The more blocks you have the more restriction especially D5 pump has lower head pressure than DDC.
I have two DDC pumpe in series; one mounted inside the case and other on the MO-RA.
My flow rate is at 250 l/h while running the pumps at 85%.
If the flow rate is low I think below 120l/h then the temperatures are worst.

You said one card is hotter than the other.
Did you check if it makes difference if you swap the position of the cards?
I mean with your setup the water enters and leave the two cards in opposite direction.
On lower card input port is towards the front of the case and on the upper card it is the output port that is towards the front of the case.
I never had multiple GPUs in the loop so I am not sure what is optimum way to connect them together in the loop.

I cant check water flow, but it is somewhat decent as when I change the pump speed it does have good effect on temperature overall, water stays below 37-38C
I actually did swap cards yesterday it made a small difference indeed and the rest is just worse silicon imho.

 

[turbogear]

I have the MO-RA connected over quick release connector so that I can operate computer also without it with two internal rads.
One time I did make a mistake and coupled the connectors in the wrong direction so the two pumps were pushing against each other and in minutes the temperature of GPU jumped to 110°C on turning on Time Spy and computer shut down.
I noticed the mistake right away and did the coupling correctly again.

I cant check water flow, but it is somewhat decent as when I change the pump speed it does have good effect on temperature overall, water stays below 37-38C
I actually did swap cards yesterday it made a small difference indeed and the rest is just worse silicon imho.

37°C is on the high side actually but you have two power hungry GPUs in the loop.
As far as I remember even when Mo-Ra is in the room my loop temperature are in the range of 31°C under stress test.

 

[skizzo]

It says copper based plate on the website, it is heavy af and I cant really say how to know if its copper or aluminium other than the weight really. But I have seen posts on reddit that 3080’s waterblock is made of aluminum…

I was using EK cooling indeed, some white one which I accidentaly purchased as I thought I chose transperent one but like for 4 months or less really, I was shocked to find waterblocks this heavily clogged after such period of time, both gpu and cpu, it took me 6-7 hours yesterday for the whole disassembling and cleaning process.
No corrosion though, yay
Funny thing that the other card I purchased lately is doing great temperature wise, thats the fact that made to reconsider thermals of the first one.
And regarding PSU I think thats totally true indeed.
Thanks for the reply! I guess I will try to do some benchmarking today with two PSUs.
Girlfriend needs gpu upgrade I guess she is getting this one

damn that is one of the grossest looking water blocks I've ever seen lol
So I hope you can clarify, you were using one of EK's "solid" aka opaque coolants? specifically the white one, which is called cloud white if I not mistaken?
I have a similar negative story with that coolant, but it is literally the only store bought coolant I've ever used. I otherwise use plain distilled water with biocide manually added by myself and that has always done well for me. That EK cloud white stuff gunked up in a particular corner of my GPU block and left a thin residue on like every o-ring of everything. Fins were not clogged and temps were not impacted though. I only noticed it due to it kinda looked like tartar build up on teeth and I could see it since the blocks tops are both plexi. It wasn't like cement and hard to remove or anything, I just poked it with a screwdriver and broke right down and the blocks, fittings, whole loop cleaned up fine. This gunk build up looked nothing bigger than someone flicking a nose booger into the inside of my block. But this was say 1 year of use and It was changed part way through that time. I don't think there isn't anything "wrong" with their coolant, this seems to be a general challenge to deal with with any opaque coolant regardless of the brand or specific line of coolant. I come to this conclusion from hearing others stories similar to mine. I don't think I would use colored transparent ones either...I'm under the impression the color stuff, and especially the stuff that goes in them to make them solid/opaque is what causes these gunked up issues. So you have a pretty extreme situation going on there. Not only is that block disgustingly gunked up, it did it in a record time frame. I would believe that could happen in 2 years of never changing the fluid....but for around 4 months? no way! and it didn't look like that color either....my "gunk" was literally white....what a surprise right lol. seeing it is that blue/green tinge makes me think you could have some other reactions going on in your loop. the white discoloration and/or film build up on the block or inner plexi is something I noticed on my blocks and that cleaned up OK. so I see you got it cleaned up to your liking, but this is my long winded way of saying I think it is possible you got a different issue going on bc that is a lot of shit build up of a suspicious color in a short time to me.

 

[chris189]

How are others achieving 2900mhz core clock & 2300mhz memory? I know 2900mhz core clock needs more than stock 1.15v for the core & idk about memory, stock memory voltage is 1.35v so idk which voltage is ideal to achieve 2300mhz memory. Highest I bench at is between this range 2688-2788mhz core & 2222mhz memory on fast timings.

Thanks

 

[Fatal Fighter]

So I hope you can clarify, you were using one of EK's "solid" aka opaque coolants? specifically the white one, which is called cloud white if I not mistaken?

YES that one! And the worst part is that was an accidental purchase

I have a similar negative story with that coolant, but it is literally the only store bought coolant I've ever used. I otherwise use plain distilled water with biocide manually added by myself and that has always done well for me. That EK cloud white stuff gunked up in a particular corner of my GPU block and left a thin residue on like every o-ring of everything. Fins were not clogged and temps were not impacted though. I only noticed it due to it kinda looked like tartar build up on teeth and I could see it since the blocks tops are both plexi. It wasn't like cement and hard to remove or anything, I just poked it with a screwdriver and broke right down and the blocks, fittings, whole loop cleaned up fine. This gunk build up looked nothing bigger than someone flicking a nose booger into the inside of my block. But this was say 1 year of use and It was changed part way through that time. I don't think there isn't anything "wrong" with their coolant, this seems to be a general challenge to deal with with any opaque coolant regardless of the brand or specific line of coolant. I come to this conclusion from hearing others stories similar to mine. I don't think I would use colored transparent ones either...I'm under the impression the color stuff, and especially the stuff that goes in them to make them solid/opaque is what causes these gunked up issues. So you have a pretty extreme situation going on there. Not only is that block disgustingly gunked up, it did it in a record time frame. I would believe that could happen in 2 years of never changing the fluid....but for around 4 months? no way! and it didn't look like that color either....my "gunk" was literally white....what a surprise right lol. seeing it is that blue/green tinge makes me think you could have some other reactions going on in your loop. the white discoloration and/or film build up on the block or inner plexi is something I noticed on my blocks and that cleaned up OK. so I see you got it cleaned up to your liking, but this is my long winded way of saying I think it is possible you got a different issue going on bc that is a lot of shit build up of a suspicious color in a short time to me.

Well believe me I was shocked to discover that and I think that greenish tint comes from the coolant itself, because I remember it having some kind of green thingies inside of it, like really really small and I thought I just needed to shake it, like thats how it works lol
I was never goingv for opaque liquid just a stupid mistake.
I have seen tons of posts with such issues but that was happening like after a year or two as you said lol
Maybe my particular coolant was "factory defected" or something idk.

Using Corsair's XL8 now, hopefully no issues with it

 

[turbogear]

How are others achieving 2900mhz core clock & 2300mhz memory? I know 2900mhz core clock needs more than stock 1.15v for the core & idk about memory, stock memory voltage is 1.35v so idk which voltage is ideal to achieve 2300mhz memory. Highest I bench at is between this range 2688-2788mhz core & 2222mhz memory on fast timings.

Thanks

For the 6900XT to achieve these GPU and memory clocks there are two things needed.
For memory to scale that high I flashed using an external programmer a bios from the 6900XT LC AMD refence card.
This bios is only compatible with 6900XT XTXH cards and is from the 18Gbps memory cards.

For achieving GPU clock in range of 2900MHz, there is a feature in the MPT that applies higher voltage to the core depending on the Hotspot temperature.
That‘s why I cool down the Hotspot to around 15°C by putting the Mo-Ra on balcony where in winter I had down to -2°C.
This year until now it was not that cold. Usually we get down to -10°C.

YES that one! And the worst part is that was an accidental purchase

Well believe me I was shocked to discover that and I think that greenish tint comes from the coolant itself, because I remember it having some kind of green thingies inside of it, like really really small and I thought I just needed to shake it, like thats how it works lol
I was never goingv for opaque liquid just a stupid mistake.
I have seen tons of posts with such issues but that was happening like after a year or two as you said lol
Maybe my particular coolant was "factory defected" or something idk.

Using Corsair's XL8 now, hopefully no issues with it

I also one time tried this EK opaque light blue.
This is the worst coolant. I had the same issues with sediments inside the fine fins of GPU and CPU blocks.

I used now since long time XSPC EC6 which is really good and had no issues.
In the last months I could not buy it anymore as it was often sold out everywhere in Germany.
This is now first time I try Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra. I hope it is also as good as XSPC which I used for years.
At least I asked some of the Hardwareluxx forum members who have been using this one for longer time and they had no complains about it.

 

[Felix123BU]

For the 6900XT to achieve these GPU and memory clocks there are two things needed.
For memory to scale that high I flashed using an external programmer a bios from the 6900XT LC AMD refence card.
This bios is only compatible with 6900XT XTXH cards and is from the 18Gbps memory cards.

For achieving GPU clock in range of 2900MHz, there is a feature in the MPT that applies higher voltage to the core depending on the Hotspot temperature.
That‘s why I cool down the Hotspot to around 15°C by putting the Mo-Ra on balcony where in winter I had down to -2°C.
This year until now it was not that cold. Usually we get down to -10°C.


I also one time tried this EK opaque light blue.
This is the worst coolant. I had the same issues with sediments inside the fine fins of GPU and CPU blocks.

I used now since long time XSPC EC6 which is really good and had no issues.
In the last months I could not buy it anymore as it was often sold out everywhere in Germany.
This is now first time I try Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra. I hope it is also as good as XSPC which I used for years.
At least I asked some of the Hardwareluxx forum members who have been using this one for longer time and they had no complains about it.

"For achieving GPU clock in range of 2900MHz, there is a feature in the MPT that applies higher voltage to the core depending on the Hotspot temperature" - where and what feature is that?
I confess not touching MPT for some time, but this feature sound really sweet!

 

[turbogear]

"For achieving GPU clock in range of 2900MHz, there is a feature in the MPT that applies higher voltage to the core depending on the Hotspot temperature" - where and what feature is that?
I confess not touching MPT for some time, but this feature sound really sweet!

You have to enable this feature under the Features menu.



Then you can change the voltage in the power section for GFX and SoC.
Note this is MPT v1.3.8b1.
If you have much older version than this feature is not there.
It was introduced at some point by HELM from Igorlabs and the good members at Hardwareluxx discovered what it does.

You need to really cool your GPU well otherwise it heats up very quickly when you enable this and your score is gone.

 

[chris189]

@Felix123BU I couldn't find anything like that in MPT. Advice?

After changing what you said, I still see max 1150mV Core Voltage in Wattman. I need maybe 1175mV & I'll be happy. I set vMin to 1200 on GFX min/max.

Thanks

*Update*
Nevermind I set vMin min/max to 1200 but set the new voltage from 1150mv to 1175mv & it worked! Thanks

*Update*
It gimped it though, its not going past 500Mhz under load. I seen this before if try & increase the voltage it does this.

 

[chris189]

Where is the temperature limit in Wattman AMD Radeon Software? I'd like to limit the temperature of the Core & Hotspot to 84°C.​

 

[skizzo]

Where is the temperature limit in Wattman AMD Radeon Software? I'd like to limit the temperature of the Core & Hotspot to 84°C.

never heard or seen such a thing before, it doesn't exist. at least not in their official software. maybe there are user made/third party tools/mods that allow stuff like that to be configured, but I don't know.

with their official software you can limit, CLOCKS, POWER, and/or VOLTAGE, which impacts temps. but it's not like they offer users the ability to say "GPU never goes above X*C"

 

[Felix123BU]

never heard or seen such a thing before, it doesn't exist. at least not in their official software. maybe there are user made/third party tools/mods that allow stuff like that to be configured, but I don't know.

with their official software you can limit, CLOCKS, POWER, and/or VOLTAGE, which impacts temps. but it's not like they offer users the ability to say "GPU never goes above X*C"

Yes, there is no such limit to be configured in Wattman, as far as I know also not in MPT, there is a upper max limit from where the GPU will start to throttle, but I don't know it to be configurable, and that's only as a protection limit, might have weird effects if set a lot lower.

But also I can deduct that if there is such a value in the GPU bios, its only a matter of time until the MPT guys who are doing a fantastic job, figure it out and expose it to the user, if its not there already in some shape.

You can sort of achieve something similar by setting a custom fan profile so that effectively the fans keep the card close to a desired temp.

 

[chris189]

If you watch my videos. The 1st one is undervolted down to 1000mV where the core hits like 57°C & the hotspot hits 72°C. Then the 2nd video shows overclocked at stock voltage at 1150mV temps Core @ 72°C & hotspot @ 102°C.

You can't set the Target Temperature Lower than 60°C or it messes up Wattmans fan profile. So I just set the Stop Zero RPM fan to 40°C & start to 45°C & so as soon as it hits 45°C the fan goes full speed.

 

[nolive721]

If you watch my videos. The 1st one is undervolted down to 1000mV where the core hits like 57°C & the hotspot hits 72°C. Then the 2nd video shows overclocked at stock voltage at 1150mV temps Core @ 72°C & hotspot @ 102°C.

You can't set the Target Temperature Lower than 60°C or it messes up Wattmans fan profile. So I just set the Stop Zero RPM fan to 40°C & start to 45°C & so as soon as it hits 45°C the fan goes full speed.

View attachment 237075

@chris189

I am very interested in your testing both UV and pushing the envelop of temperature control

my best effort for my 6600xt is UV core 2200mhz at 1.062v and card runs in low 50 core and high 50s junction temps

at default it’s 10degc up on both and OC 2800mhz core 2180mhz fast timing m’en with voltage at 1.15v I see temps at around 65degc. Core and 80degc junction

my card seems not to be catching MPT changes as I can’t push the core and frequency higher even increasing TDP and voltage which is strange

maybe it’s because I have very good experience with my Polaris and Vega previous GPUs and I am hoping too high I don’t know

in any case I love how Rdna2 efficient is with both power, temps and noise

 

[chris189]

@nolive721 Check out my 1000mV undervolt 2600mhz core 2200mhz memory fast timings video. Check out the stats. lmk

PS - 1000mV is unstable at 2600mhz so 2500-2550Mhz is optimal @ 1000mv.

 

[nolive721]

@nolive721 Check out my 1000mV undervolt 2600mhz core 2200mhz memory fast timings video. Check out the stats. lmk

PS - 1000mV is unstable at 2600mhz so 2500-2550Mhz is optimal @ 1000mv.

thank you for sharing

there is no way in the world my Nitro+ can boost at its rated Game Fqy with 1V. If yours can achieve that, you have an uber Gold chip indeed or there is some MPT tuning you are applying that I am completely missing here maybe?
But even so, I have not seen an 6600XT that could run these frequencies at that low of a voltage

@chris189

Please ignore my previous posts in terms of UV and Core Fqy,I was referring to input Voltage when I said my card does 1.062V stable.

With that 1.062V input, what I can achieve stable with 1V used by the card is 2485Mhz core 2175Mhx Fqy fast timing so of course better but really nowhere near yours

 

[chris189]

@nolive721 I think the Hotspot is on the Core Diode itself on the NAVI cards, wither its RDNA 1 or RDNA 2. At 1000mV Core Voltage, which yields 0.968V max & 60°C Core & 82°C Hot Spot.
I'll be replacing my fans soon, the 3x 80mm fans with 4x 70mm Deltas for 250 CFM total which I hope will reduce the temperature of the Hot Spot.
This is 2575Mhz CORE CLOCK & 2200Mhz MEMORY CLOCK @ FAST TIMINGS.

Update The thermal glue is making it run hot as heck!
horrible performing thermal glue

*UPDATE*
See the little blue squares? That's Laird T-Flex 6100 Thermagon thermal pad's that transfer heat from the video card PCB (Printed Circuit Board) to the Heatsink which is cooled down with Fan's. It's amazing how cool it's cooling now.

Rise Of The Tomb Raider 4K load Hwinfo temperatures Gigabyte Eagle AMD Radeon RX 6600 XT

Here's my stock results after adding a shim to the core but man that memory is too hot with the current thermal pads I have installed & at 1.4v memory voltage.

Here's my results from a 4K Forza Motorsport 7 session 3700X @ 4.7GHZ & Gigabyte Eagle AMD Radeon RX 6600 XT @ 2575MHZ Core 0.988V & 2200MHZ Memory Fast Timings with 1.25V Memory Voltage

56°C CORE 0.988V
68°C HOT SPOT
71.9°C MEMORY UNDERVOLT TO 1.25V from 1.35V

I thermal adhered a copper shim to the heatsink as to increase core pressure & used M2 x 7mm screws Wafer Head (to be but not at the moment) using regular M2 x 7mm screws & Using Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 on the core itself. This is the Gigabyte Eagle AMD Radeon RX 6600 XT.

 

[chris189]

I ordered the 4x 250 cfm total airflow 70mm Deltas & I need to order the VGA 4-pin to PWM adapter & PWM Splitters. I'm sure it will help lower the Hot spot down.

Those blue squares are Laird Thermagon T-Flex 6100 pads that cool exceptionally well.

 

[nolive721]

That’s what I call enthusiast

nice to see what you are doing here!

 

[chris189]

@nolive721 Thank you so much yes I love this card a lot, too bad its damaged a little from the previous owner who mined on it. The screen flashes on a continuous basis randomly here & there. I think I need to bake it, 350°F for 15min, the core & memory might fix the issue but idk its a little risky but I think it would work. I can't wait to get all my parts in & post the results!

 

[Felix123BU]

@nolive721 Thank you so much yes I love this card a lot, too bad its damaged a little from the previous owner who mined on it. The screen flashes on a continuous basis randomly here & there. I think I need to bake it, 350°F for 15min, the core & memory might fix the issue but idk its a little risky but I think it would work. I can't wait to get all my parts in & post the results!

I would recommend caution with that, I did it once with a r290 with similar symptoms , it got even worse

 

[Butanding1987]

@nolive721 I think I need to bake it, 350°F for 15min, the core & memory might fix the issue but idk its a little risky but I think it would work.

DON'T DO IT.

 

[chris189]

By the way do you guys think that the card can handle the 12V current of 4x 70mm DELTA AUB0712VH @ 0.56A each or 0.60A max or 7.2W max for 2.4A & 28.8W of fan power.

They provide 62.5 CFM nominal each for 250 CFM total airflow with all 4 at full tilt.

 

[chris189]

I got the Delta's in & I could only hook up 2 of the fan's but the hot spot only hit 79°C with the clock at 2750Mhz, not bad.

 

[chris189]

Check out the stats of just 1 of the 70mm Deltas running with HWINFO 975mV Core & 1250mV Memory on Gigabyte Eagle AMD Radeon RX 6600 XT with Only One Delta 70mm running.

These are the new pads I'm using : THERMAGON LAIRD A10095-05 Silicon Thermal Pad Gap Conductive Insulation Pad / 36