Best soldering flux?

[Shrek]

Then I was fortunate, the fix was successful for both my units; I was able to feel the USB wires move as I heated them, so knew that the solder had melted, and was able to inspect the result for wetting although I admit it is hard to be sure.

Was it worth it for a $26 USB hub? well it is a rather nice unit as it has a heavy extruded aluminum case anodized in space grey.

Even after ultrasonic cleaning with 91% isopropyl alcohol, one can still see residue from the original manufacture that I did not get to remove.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

I use cheap Chinese flux and some old rosin cored lead solder that I bought bulk nearly 20 years ago, I preflux heat to 230c and touch wood have yet to get a dry joint. I purely solder to shine of joint if the joint is nice and shiny when fluid then it's normally ok. I'd be more inclined to listen to @Bill_Bright (we butt heads every now and again also but he's not stupid) their seems to be minimal solder used and not enough heat on your joints just because solder is fluid doesn't mean it will adhere.

Also get a decent iron just because it's a good brand doesn't mean that old w60p is any good, pinecil irons are cheap and a vast improvement over that Weller your only a few steps up from holding your work over an open fire.

 

[Shrek]

their seems to be minimal solder used and not enough heat on your joints just because solder is fluid doesn't mean it will adhere.


Also get a decent iron just because it's a good brand doesn't mean that old w60p is any good, pinecil irons are cheap and a vast improvement over that Weller your only a few steps up from holding your work over an open fire.

I'm a little confused, the repair turned out fine; I opened this thread to ask what flux was best.

Open fire? the Weller W60P is temperature regulated and 60W

Perhaps I have caused confusion, the device failed and I found some solder joints had not wetted properly; I reflowed with flux and all was well after that. I anticipate more such failures and came here to ask advice on what flux might be best.

I normally use leaded solder for repairs, but this time elected to reflow what was already there.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

Open fire? the Weller W60P is temperature regulated and 60W

It's temp regulated to 315°c has no temp control so yes it's an open fire and I for one wouldn't touch any delicate electronics with it. Maybe I have high standards but it looks like a PoS to me with the Weller branding on it.

 

[delshay]

A dry joint is due to poor soldering technique.

That's 100% correct.

I have a assortment of soldering tips, well over 20 different types of interchangeable soldering tips using the same holder.. I use the right type of tip for the job i'm doing & If I what it to look truly professional, I stick it under my infrared soldering workstation, but this depends on what component i'm soldering in.

EDIT: @Thread

Some components are soldered on both sides of the PCB. If you really want it to last year's, you may want to consider this option too.

 

[Shrek]

Maybe I have high standards but it looks like a PoS to me with the Weller branding on it.

Well, my budget is rather limited.

I use cheap Chinese flux

High standards?

 

[Athlonite]

I am finding devices failing due to dry solder joints (most recently a USB 3 hub) and so far I have been using Kester 186 soldering flux for reflowing; I also ordered some RadioShack flux as it has stella reviews, but was wondering what people here felt was the best flux for reflowing.

I like no-clean although I normally scrub with isopropyl alchohol.

Take a look at Louis Rossmann's store

https://store.rossmanngroup.com/index.php/amtech-nc-559-v2-30-cc-16160.html

 

[Shrek]

Much appreciated.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

Well, my budget is rather limited.



High standards?

Like I said a pinecil is far cheaper than what else is available on the market.

I use the same flux that's used on 90% of electronics in circulation.

I might be argumentative but I'm genuinely trying to help Andy. I've been soldering for more than 3 decades and used various products. As others have said soldering is mainly technique, all the different fluxes, solder and tools do is make your life harder or easier.

learning should be your priority not what overpriced flux to use and having temp control so your not needlessly cooking components.

 

[Shrek]

You are right, no sense using an overpriced flux, but I don't want a flux that leaves harmful residues.

Before the hub I fixed a 40-year-old smoke alarm and would like it to last another 40.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

You just need to clean up after. The majority of those so called harmful chemicals are what the flux is using to clean the surface without them you might as well be using Jello instead of flux.

 

[Shrek]

That is where I am trying to learn, as I understand it rosin is only active at high temperatures and so can be left on; that said, I always clean the board with 91% isopropyl alcohol as it is in budget.

Anyhow, thanks for the help; I just got rubbed a little the wrong way being told my $80 iron was an open fire.

That said Weller has gone downhill since being acquired.

 

[bobbybluz]

I've been doing soldering for over 65 years including military spec work. My favorite flux is still Oatey #5 Lead-Free. Luckily I have a large stash of 60-40 as well as silver solder. As ThaiTaffy stated above technique is everything. I use the correct tip and make sure it's clean and tinned, have a solder sucker and wicks for unsoldering plus a collection of tiny drill bits for cleaning out holes on circuit boards (I use a Dremel at extremely slow speed for that), use the highest heat possible to make sure the solder melts quickly and the heat doesn't saturate the workpiece and make sure to clean excess flux off the workpiece. I use an old toothbrush and isopropyl as well as Chemtronix Flux-Off Plus (I don't think consumers can buy that anymore because of the chemicals in it) but sometimes there's no need to clean if you use a minimum of flux. On circuit boards I apply it with the tip of a toothpick. Use just enough flux to get a clean shiny solder joint. Too much only makes a mess.

I use a 45 watt Unger with a chisel tip for silver soldering and one of these cheap solder stations for everything else. When I got my first one years ago they were about half the price they are now but it's still an unbeatable deal unless you're doing professional work every day. My main 15 year old one is still going strong several tip kits later and friends I've told about them and bought them all say it's great for everything they've used them on. The replacement tip kits keep varying in price from $4.99 to over $10 on Amazon and Parts Express. I always keep a few stashed in my soldering tools.

Home

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[Shrek]

I also have a stash of 60/40 and have wondered about the virtues of 63/37

For clearing out holes I have a strange technique; hold the iron on the hole on one side and with me ready on the other to blow the moment I remove the iron. I prefer not to use drill bits as I may remove some of the copper, but I do have stainless needles to help as the solder (even with flux) does not stick to stainless.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

Sorry but you got robbed $80 for a regulated iron is nuts I can buy a regulated iron in any Thai Street market for less than $5 and a ts100 or pinecil sells online for around $25-30 globally.

As people come to step away from these expensive brands selling junk in favour of more open source alternatives companies like Weller will have to rethink their market and stop selling the junk they've producing for decades and get with the times.

It's my hope that a few people thinking about buying a soldering iron will read this thread and make a better decision rather than buy some Amazon best seller soldering iron because it has a well known brand name.

 

[Shrek]

The Weller is 60W which one needs when there are ground planes around.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

I also have a stash of 60/40 and have wondered about the virtues of 63/37

For clearing out holes I have a strange technique; hold the iron on the hole on one side and with me ready on the other to blow the moment I remove the iron. I prefer not to use drill bits as I may remove some of the copper, but I do have stainless needles to help as the solder (even with flux) does not stick to stainless.

Yep stainless needles and wick are the way to go, sorry @bobbybluz but solder suckers are a joke as far as I'm concerned.

The Weller is 60W which one needs when there are ground planes around.

As I keep repeating the ts100 and pinecil are 60w and can be grounded the only thing I ever have any issues is very large joints which need to be heated with hot air while soldering.

It's also a blessing to be able to run an iron off a battery for mobile work rather than using a janky gas portable iron

And nerd appeal.. "what your soldering iron doesn't have an operating system? Sheesh get with the times"

 

[bobbybluz]

The solder sucker I mainly use was "liberated" from the company I did military circuit boards for many years ago. I liked it well enough to take it with me when the plant was closed. 98% of my soldering work these days is replacing 1/4" and XLR connectors on band equipment and cables. The sucker is great for that, especially when tiny eyelets are involved and I'm trying to get the job done as quickly as possible. I use wicks on circuit boards though. Suckers don't work well on high temp solder used on wave soldered boards.

As with most things we all have our preferred methods and use what we like best. My father repaired TV's plus built and repaired ham radio and audio equipment in the 1950's. There were no circuit boards back then and everything was point to point with 60/40. Because he had huge hands and was extremely far sighted I became his go-to when it came to soldering work. He had a collection of irons and a big Weller gun. I would have loved to have a soldering station like are available today.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

Star Trek blaster anyone?

 

[Shrek]

Only very recently did I learn that there are fluxes for stainless steel, and since I tend to seal the ends of my bike cables by soldering, this flux may come in useful now that I have a stainless gear cable.

Hang on, isn't Thailand 230V?

 

[ThaiTaffy]

Only very recently did I learn that there are fluxes for stainless steel, and since I tend to seal the ends of my bike cables by soldering, this flux may come in useful now that I have a stainless gear cable.

Hang on, isn't Thailand 230V?

It's not mine just a photo I pulled and Thailand is on whatever they feel like, it's supposed to be 220v actually but as you can see this morning it's been all over the place.

 

[Shrek]

I'm originally from England; 240V is good... 205, not so much...

 

[ThaiTaffy]

This is the iron I use sadly the pinecil isn't available here

 

[Shrek]

Nice, but no offense, the Weller does a fine job.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

Nice, but no offense, the Weller does a fine job.

Just keep to small tips is my warning anything larger will transfer too much heat to the components and is likely to cook something