TPU's Nostalgic Hardware Club

[Audioave10]

Interesting...I'll have to try that. Thanks!

 

[lexluthermiester]

Interesting...I'll have to try that. Thanks!

How much is in there now? You didn't say earlier..

 

[Audioave10]

How much is in there now? You didn't say earlier..

The old RAM in there was 4 1GB Dimms and I added a 2GB Samsung. It works at tri-channel OK, 6Gb total. These are all single-sided Dimms.
I don't have any more single-sided Dimms to try.

 

[Voodoo Rufus]

Personally, I would probably keep the original heatsink on top of that thing. Of course, after washing the shroud and replacing both fans...

Can you at least mount the original VRAM heatsinks back in place? It's difficult to tell from the photo whenever there's enough clearance or not.

Edit
Looking at the shroud from the inside, I see that it uses uniquely designed fan(s).

What you could try is to mount a standard 60x60 or 70x70 fan & see if the two diagonal holes will match the original ones on the shroud. If not, you could always drill your own ... it would still appear more original & authentic than Zalman. That's just my personal opinion of course, the card is yours to do as you please

I agree. I want to try both setups and see which works. A blade was bent but not broken and I was able to bend it back so it won't bind against the shroud. What I don't like is how the heatsink gets more indirect airflow from the fans pushing air towards each other. Given the power consumption of a card like this with a nice slab of copper I'm sure it works fine anyway. I might still have a DD Maze gpu block around here to use, too.
Might even try to volt mod it.

 

[Greenslade]

I didn't know it existed? Had never seen it and to be fair, there's nothing wrong with a new thread focused specifically on purchasing advice(as opposed to building advice), which has been taking up a lot of space here in this thread and is not really on topic. Creating a new thread for discussions to take place is not a problem, it solves a problem.

Interesting video from one of my two favorite AUSSIE You Tubers. This video testing new and old PSUs, on a Socket A Motherboard, as regards the 5w rail, it seems the older ones work better on that.

good informative video as usual.

 

[Trekkie4]

Interesting video from one of my two favorite AUSSIE You Tubers. This video testing new and old PSUs, on a Socket A Motherboard, as regards the 5w rail, it seems the older ones work better on that.

good informative video as usual.

Ha! I always use old power supplies in my retro builds, along with the original, mechanical hard drives for storage (instead of those IDE to CF card adapters or SSD). Sometimes even cheap, generic PSU units such as Codegen, for as long as I know that it works OK...

 

[Greenslade]

Ha! I always use old power supplies in my retro builds, along with the original, mechanical hard drives for storage (instead of those IDE to CF card adapters or SSD). Sometimes even cheap, generic PSU units such as Codegen, for as long as I know that it works OK...

Funny you should mention SSD,s this is another of my fav you tubers. He tries using an SSD for Win 98 installation.

needless to say the SSD was about the same as the HDD.Like a lot of older stuff they were made to last.

 

[Trekkie4]

Funny you should mention SSD,s this is another of my fav you tubers. He tries using an SSD for Win 98 installation.

needless to say the SSD was about the same as the HDD.

Of course... Using modern components inside the truly vintage, period-correct system is the waste of time & money if you ask me. Nothing ... and I repeat /nothing/ works better than the real deal! My Pentium II 350 will boot Win98 off the mechanical hard drive (Quantum Fireball) in less than a minute. In less than HALF a minute, to be exact. I would love to see the same result on a modern-day system ... even with SSD!

 

[framebuffer]

One of these will do I think:

https://www.distrelec.ch/en/passive-components/capacitors/polymer-capacitors/smd-tantalum-electrolytic-capacitors/c/cat-DNAV_PL_03020703?q=*&filter_Rated+Voltage+DC%7E%7EV=16&filter_Package+Type=2917&filter_Capacitance%7E%7EuF=100&filter_category4Code=cat-DNAV_PL_03020703&filter_category3Code=cat-L3D_616574

But like I said measure your caps to make sure they're the same size or at least very close.

For this type of component I typically use just hot air for the whole process, the pcb can soak up quite a bit of heat without a pcb heater so an iron is not very effective. Cover the area around where you're soldering with aluminum foil to shield everything else from direct heat. If you want to be fancy you can use soldering paste too but I normally just tin the pads and use a bit of flux.

OK thanks! (sorry for the late reply)
They are 6mm x 3mm, let's see if I can find a replacement of the same size

EDIT: uhm they are ALL 7.3mm x 4.3mm
EDIT2: OK, looks like 6mm x 3.2mm are only available at 10V: https://www.distrelec.ch/en/passive...e~~uF=100&filter_Length~~mm=6&sort=Price:desc

Can I use one of those?

 

[Greenslade]

Of course... Using modern components inside the truly vintage, period-correct system is the waste of time & money if you ask me. Nothing ... and I repeat /nothing/ works better than the real deal! My Pentium II 350 will boot Win98 off the mechanical hard drive (Quantum Fireball) in less than a minute. In less than HALF a minute, to be exact. I would love to see the same result on a modern-day system ... even with SSD!

The guy is just doing it as an experiment for a video.13k of people have given it a thumbs up. Like the one he tried to do installing 95 with floppy diskettes that failed. Here it is

29 diskettes
Wow that is a fast boot and for an HDD

 

[Trekkie4]

The guy is just doing it as an experiment for a video.13k of people have given it a thumbs up.

I know, I know. But what I meant to say was in real-world application. He certainly wasn't the first one to put SSD inside an old computer, and probably not the last one either. It's possible, but does not give much or any advantage over the real thing, from back in a day.

 

[Greenslade]

I know, I know. But what I meant to say was in real-world application. He certainly wasn't the first one to put SSD inside an old computer, and probably not the last one either. It's possible, but does not give much or any advantage over the real thing, from back in a day.

I guess you are right there, It is a waste of time. Good for him with all the people
watching the video,

 

[Trekkie4]

It is a waste of time.

More like a waste of money if you ask me ... or both

 

[DR4G00N]

OK thanks! (sorry for the late reply)
They are 6mm x 3mm, let's see if I can find a replacement of the same size

EDIT: uhm they are ALL 7.3mm x 4.3mm
EDIT2: OK, looks like 6mm x 3.2mm are only available at 10V: https://www.distrelec.ch/en/passive-components/capacitors/polymer-capacitors/smd-tantalum-electrolytic-capacitors/c/cat-DNAV_PL_03020703?filter_Width~~mm=3.2&filter_Capacitance~~uF=100&filter_Length~~mm=6&sort=Price:desc

Can I use one of those?

Okay so they're 2412 package. Can you buy them from anywhere else? Mouser has exactly what you need, 2412 100uF 16V and they ship worldwide.

https://www.mouser.ca/c/passive-components/capacitors/tantalum-capacitors/tantalum-capacitors-solid-smd/?capacitance=100%20uF&case%20code%20-%20in=2412&height=2.5%20mm&voltage%20rating%20dc=16%20VDC&instock=y

 

[framebuffer]

Okay so they're 2412 package. Can you buy them from anywhere else? Mouser has exactly what you need, 2412 100uF 16V and they ship worldwide.

https://www.mouser.ca/c/passive-components/capacitors/tantalum-capacitors/tantalum-capacitors-solid-smd/?capacitance=100%20uF&case%20code%20-%20in=2412&height=2.5%20mm&voltage%20rating%20dc=16%20VDC&instock=y

Yep sure I can buy them there, thanks!
Can you shortly remind me why 16V and not 10V (my understanding was that the original ones are 100uF 10V)

 

[DR4G00N]

Yep sure I can buy them there, thanks!
Can you shortly remind me why 16V and not 10V (my understanding was that the original ones are 100uF 10V)

There's no real downside to using a higher voltage rated cap, I don't know if the input voltage for the VRM is 5V or 12V so that's why I suggested 16V since it's fine with either.

 

[Aquinus]

There's no real downside to using a higher voltage rated cap

Except for possibly being larger for the same amount of capacitance.

 

[Mussels]

Interesting video from one of my two favorite AUSSIE You Tubers. This video testing new and old PSUs, on a Socket A Motherboard, as regards the 5w rail, it seems the older ones work better on that.

good informative video as usual.

Yup, 5V was a way bigger deal in the old ATX standards - new ones barely have any 5V capacity at all

 

[Greenslade]

Yup, 5V was a way bigger deal in the old ATX standards - new ones barely have any 5V capacity at all

So I gather from Phil,s informative video,i had no idea till then.

 

[Mr.Scott]

Interesting, 24pin ATX but now AUX12V?

I bagged a Gainward 6800GT Golden Sample off ebay last week. The shroud and one fan blade were pretty beat up, but it should work. Might have been in a smokers home, or just never cleaned. Swapped my Zalman to it already, but I'll compare against the stock copper skived sink setup.

How beat up is it? I have the same card with a dead fan. I would like to buy them if you're not going to use it.

 

[Ruru]

Ha! I always use old power supplies in my retro builds, along with the original, mechanical hard drives for storage (instead of those IDE to CF card adapters or SSD). Sometimes even cheap, generic PSU units such as Codegen, for as long as I know that it works OK...

I got chills when I saw that manufacturer, one of their units murdered an innocent 6600 GT over 16 years ago.

After that I haven't used any low-tier PSUs, so a lesson learned there

 

[Trekkie4]

I got chills when I saw that manufacturer, one of their units murdered an innocent 6600 GT over 16 years ago.

After that I haven't used any low-tier PSUs, so a lesson learned there

I know, I believe you already told me so once before

What can I say, I never had a PSU damaging the entire system (or any hardware component, for that matter) although I did have several of them go bad, to the point where the system couldn't POST.

Anyhow, I guess the brand name doesn't really mean anything, as it's all pretty much the same on the inside. What you want (and need) is to make sure that the unit is either recapped or fully functional before you plug it into the system. Because replacing old power supplies with modern ones is NOT the answer, due to multiple reasons even. As Phil demonstrated in his video, some of the new units can't even handle the high current requirements, not to mention the fact that most units sold nowdays no longer have molex or floppy connections. Leaving you with bundles of SATA & VGA connectors which are not going to be used & cluttering up the case.

 

[Greenslade]

I know, I believe you already told me so once before

What can I say, I never had a PSU damaging the entire system (or any hardware component, for that matter) although I did have several of them go bad, to the point where the system couldn't POST.

Anyhow, I guess the brand name doesn't really mean anything, as it's all pretty much the same on the inside. What you want (and need) is to make sure that the unit is either recapped or fully functional before you plug it into the system. Because replacing old power supplies with modern ones is NOT the answer, due to multiple reasons even. As Phil demonstrated in his video, some of the new units can't even handle the high current requirements, not to mention the fact that most units sold nowdays no longer have molex or floppy connections. Leaving you with bundles of SATA & VGA connectors which are not going to be used & cluttering up the case.

What do you do if an old PSU stops working or goes bad in an old ATX PC? From that video, I would go for an old refurbished modal. Until I saw that video I would have gone with a new one. Oh, that is another thing with the new ones not having Molex or floppy connections, I did not think of that.

 

[Trekkie4]

What do you do if an old PSU stops working or goes bad in an old ATX PC? From that video, I would go for an old refurbished modal. Until I saw that video I would have gone with a new one. Oh, that is another thing with the new ones not having Molex or floppy connections, I did not think of that.

Personally I would just grab another one & try my luck one more time. Over time, I've had multiple systems with PSU issues but I remember one of them in particular. Slot 1, which would power on (LED indicator would light up) except none of the fans would turn on and there was absolutely no signs of life, whatsoever. As in no picture, no beeps, no hard drive ... nothing except the LEDs.

I immediately replaced the PSU for another one & system POSTed perfectly fine afterwards.

 

[Greenslade]

Personally I would just grab another one & try my luck one more time. Over time, I've had multiple systems with PSU issues but I remember one of them in particular. Slot 1, which would power on (LED indicator would light up) except none of the fans would turn on and there was absolutely no signs of life, whatsoever. As in no picture, no beeps, no hard drive ... nothing except the LEDs.

I immediately replaced the PSU for another one & system POSTed perfectly fine afterwards.

I hope the *Delux PSU *on the Retro PC I have ordered on eBay has no problems,
The seller said it is working fine.I had never heard of the make *Delux*before but it has been going for years has anyone else heard of the make before?
It is a custum build.