I'm a stupid . Bent CPU pins

[AusWolf]

So far I'm yet to bend pins on any CPU/socket but I did almost bent a RGB connector pin on my current mobo. 'I actually use those in my current build'

Me too, though it's no big feat - the RGB connector is utter plain shite in my opinion. What idiot designs a connector with no retention mechanism whatsoever?

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Me too, though it's no big feat - the RGB connector is utter plain shite in my opinion. What idiot designs a connector with no retention mechanism whatsoever?

Yeah 3 or 4 tiny pins sticking up, stupid, and it is not particularly easy to get the plug on the pins sometimes either.

 

[eidairaman1]

Excellent advice but I note it doesn't even have to be 30 minutes. Since a CPU can go from cold to over-heated in just a few clock cycles (and there are billions of clock cycles per second), just a few minutes is all that is needed to get it up to "normal" operating temps.

Regardless your valuable tip/point is the same - the cooler is much easier to remove when you can easily break the cured bond when the old TIM is warm. And if the motherboard will not boot or cannot be powered up for some reason, a couple minutes with a hair dryer/heat gun (on low) carefully pointed at the heatsink will sufficiently warm it up.

And NEVER pull the cooler straight up off the processor. Always use a little "twist and pull" motion.


True but the importance of this is WAY WAY overblown. What is important to understand is if your processor actually "needs" those 5° to keep from crossing over thermal protection thresholds, you have more urgent cooling needs to deal with first.

TIM can dry out and it will lose a few (~5° is typical) degrees of efficiency over time. But that's no big deal.

As noted above in post #4 above, it is only in liquid form to make it easier to squeeze out of the tube and spread around. It is the solids that are left behind that are doing the heat transfer/air blocking work, not the liquid component of the TIM. Again if your processor actually "needs" those 5°, you have more urgent cooling needs to deal with first. See The Heatsink Guide - old but still applicable and valid).

The only time dried TIM really matters is if it dries out in the tube. Then you may end up with grainy chunks of TIM that would prevent a proper, smooth, thin layer during application.

TIM will easily last 10, 15 years or longer AS LONG AS that cured bond is not broken. Consider this, there is not a single TIM maker, motherboard or computer maker, CPU or GPU maker, or cooler maker who recommends or even suggests replacing the TIM after X number of years.


Nope. It does not matter the component - whether CPU, GPU, memory, VRM, or whatever heat sensitive component you are trying to keep adequately cooled; AS LONG AS the cured bond is not broken, there is no need to replace the TIM (and risk damage from mishandling ) just because it has dried or because X number of years have passed.

I said this to ensure the system is hot enough for most users.

 

[Sithaer]

Me too, though it's no big feat - the RGB connector is utter plain shite in my opinion. What idiot designs a connector with no retention mechanism whatsoever?

I know right, its like you could sneeze at them and they gonna bend already.
Only noticed it after I finished my build and wanted to plug in the RGB connectors and one of the bottom ones had 1 pin slightly bent but I managed to bend it back luckily.

Even when its connected they feel fragile and wobbly, its pretty hard to reach the bottom connectors on my mobo cause of my case design and if I manage to accidentally unplug something then its 'fun' to plug it back.

 

[R-T-B]

Yeah 3 or 4 tiny pins sticking up, stupid, and it is not particularly easy to get the plug on the pins sometimes either.

RGB connectors are less a connector and more a "here's three pieces of metal just grab on guys!"

 

[Ruru]

It's fine. Even few broken pins doesn't always mean that the CPU is dead if you have luck and the broken ones are ground or not connected.

I've managed to bent the pins on my ex-R5 2600 as I also didn't remember how they "glue" to the heatsink/waterblock and I didn't twist it.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Never had the pleasure on amd seems it would be a ton easier to fix with a mechanical pencil than intel so be thankful
But indeed amd boards are lacking a decent cpu retainer clip.

Older 775 sockets weren't all that good either but yes all that is ever needed cold or warm is a little twist both ways to break the bond.

 

[chrcoluk]

What, so when you removed the cooler, the cpu came out the socket with it, so the cpu lock system failed to hold in socket? That seems whacked and would consider that a board flaw?

The good news is I think if the pins are intact, bending them back should be fine.

 

[skizzo]

Never considered pre warming, that’s a good idea I’ll remember.

Got an OG Xbox I need to do this too, I’ll try it on that as they can be a realPITA to remove the heat sink.

aren't those chips directly soldered to the PCB though? meaning, it's not like you're at risk of pulling that chip off or bending stuff should there still be an abnormally tight bond between the chip and the heat sink. it's a different story when the chip is installed in a socket though. still the warming idea would by theory make the thermal paste more malleable and easier to separate from the chip and heat sink, so it's not a bad idea, but likely not necessary

 

[r9]

Well I've decided to change my thermal paste with a better one so I tried to remove the heatsink carefully (in my opinion), by turning slightly right and left couple of times after which time I pull the heatsink completely. Then I immediately realized that my 3900x came with its cooler without turning off the cpu lock.

After fixing with a blade, here is what I see from bottom:

It is thankfully working now, but how can I trust it now? I really don't think AMD will ever RMA this but what do you suggest to me? Change the cpu?

I think you should sell that CPU immediately. I'll give you $50. lol

 

[ste2425]

aren't those chips directly soldered to the PCB though? meaning, it's not like you're at risk of pulling that chip off or bending stuff should there still be an abnormally tight bond between the chip and the heat sink. it's a different story when the chip is installed in a socket though. still the warming idea would by theory make the thermal paste more malleable and easier to separate from the chip and heat sink, so it's not a bad idea, but likely not necessary

Yep soldered.

Less likely to be a problem, however wouldn’t be the first time I’ve seen people do such things.

I don’t fancy being the first to do it to an Xbox!

 

[AusWolf]

RGB connectors are less a connector and more a "here's three pieces of metal just grab on guys!"

If only something could actually grab onto those metal pins. Maybe the person or team that created it had a mindset of "if you want your shitty RGB, you should suffer".

 

[Mussels]

Haven't read the whole thread yet, but will in a minute

1. I've bent plenty of pins and even snapped some off of my CPU's. Oops.

2. Bent pins can still fit in the socket and work fine - they dont have to be perfectly straight, the holes in the socket have a little bit of spare room

3. broken off pins can be replaced with the solid core wire from inside a SATA cable. My 2700x is missing 3 pins, only has one working memory slot... until i slapped in some wires, and now all four slots work.

The wraith stealth and its Mjolnir enchanted TIM is easiest removed by unplugging the fan and sitting in the BIOS for a few minutes to warm it up, shut it all off, loosen the screws half-wayish and tap the corner of the heatsink with your screwdriver handle to break the seal

 

[delshay]

My small addition to this thread.

CPU pins can be replaced if completely broken off. You have to desolder the base of the pin "if present" & replace with a new pin. ...I strongly recommend doing this kind of repair with a preheater.

 

[mclaren85]

My small addition to this thread.

CPU pins can be replaced if completely broken off. You have to desolder the base of the pin "if present". ...I strongly recommend doing this kind of repair with a preheater.

Are the pins soldered the CPU die or hardwired?

Haven't read the whole thread yet, but will in a minute

1. I've bent plenty of pins and even snapped some off of my CPU's. Oops.

2. Bent pins can still fit in the socket and work fine - they dont have to be perfectly straight, the holes in the socket have a little bit of spare room

3. broken off pins can be replaced with the solid core wire from inside a SATA cable. My 2700x is missing 3 pins, only has one working memory slot... until i slapped in some wires, and now all four slots work.

The wraith stealth and its Mjolnir enchanted TIM is easiest removed by unplugging the fan and sitting in the BIOS for a few minutes to warm it up, shut it all off, loosen the screws half-wayish and tap the corner of the heatsink with your screwdriver handle to break the seal

So you think there is no need to change the CPU yet?
Because after the new socket type, it will be so hard to find an equivalent cpu

 

[delshay]

Are the pins soldered the CPU die or hardwired?

It's soldered to PCB. Look carefully next time you take the CPU out, you can see traces of solder around the pin. Under magnification it's clearly visible around each & every pin.

EDIT: Better still, see online photos of any CPU that have pins. Don't want you taking your CPU out again.

 

[Deleted member 24505]

 

[Mussels]

Are the pins soldered the CPU die or hardwired?


So you think there is no need to change the CPU yet?
Because after the new socket type, it will be so hard to find an equivalent cpu

Considering AM4 CPUs are still being manufactured today, i think you'll have years of easy replacements.

No reason you cant move to a ryzen 5500 for pennies if the 2700x dies, for example.

The pins are soldered, but without some skill and tools you'll do what i did and turn two missing pins into three missing pins. Ironically, sticking a piece of wire in the socket turned out to be simple and a long lasting fix (i've moved that CPU to a different board, and both times it worked first time and stayed working)

 

[eidairaman1]

If only something could actually grab onto those metal pins. Maybe the person or team that created it had a mindset of "if you want your shitty RGB, you should suffer".

Hmm I just built a System in December with 1 ARGB fan and have no problem with the upright pins.

Are people being gorillas or something?

 

[freeagent]

Hmm I just built a System in December with 1 ARGB fan and have no problem with the upright pins.

Are people being gorillas or something?

Fire! Meat! UGG!

 

[eidairaman1]

Fire! Meat! UGG!

What?

Are you talking of bulgogi?

 

[freeagent]

What?

Are you talking of bulgogi?

Yes.. maybe.. I was having a moment..

 

[eidairaman1]

Yes.. maybe.. I was having a moment..

Im still tweaking that rig with 11 on it, slow process, the last will to set the fan to 1 color, the rest of the case have Blue LEDs, Zalman Z1 Neo, yes there is a Pioneer BDXL Burner in it.

 

[Mussels]

Hmm I just built a System in December with 1 ARGB fan and have no problem with the upright pins.

Are people being gorillas or something?

Some are loose out of the box - with my razer ARGB controller i've had to use extension cables for some devices, as they wont stay connected. Others are so tight i worried about snapping the pins.

ARGB does need a revision with a latch, since manufs are being lazy with the tolerances.

 

[eidairaman1]

Some are loose out of the box - with my razer ARGB controller i've had to use extension cables for some devices, as they wont stay connected. Others are so tight i worried about snapping the pins.

ARGB does need a revision with a latch, since manufs are being lazy with the tolerances.

I guess I got lucky with the Combo, B550 Steel Legend, 5800 oem
Using this cooler

ARO-M14G – Thermalright

thermalright.com

With this fan

TL-D14S ARGB – Thermalright

thermalright.com

It's friction fit for sure.

Or close tolerance/positive engagement