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The MSI MEG Ai1300P PCIE5 is the World's First ATX 3.0 Compliant PSU with 600 W PCIe Connector

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Because 99.9% of home appliances are 120v, and have been for over a century. to switch to 240v would be a major undertaking, requiring rewiring hundreds of millions of buildings, and replacing or converting many times more appliances already in use.

Same reason the UK still drives on the left when the rest of the world drives on the right.
when the rest of the world drives on the right. = WRONG !!

In OZ we drive on the left as well.
 
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ATX 3.0 is the standard required for a new PSU imo. The 12-pin power connector is a separate matter and the two should not be conflated. But here we are.

I'm looking forward to reviews of any ATX 3.0 PSU as I'm in the market for one.
 
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I resent how they snuck this 4 pin under, should have used normal style pins. to the right side in line with the others, with thinner cables if needed.
I don't believe 12 pin can carry 600 W safely without getting very very hot. No way. best limit it to 400 W before people start returning melted 12VHPWR connectors en masse



This covers only 1/2 of the needs. see. 800 watt, basically you need 2 of those. That PSU is already inadequate.
600w isn't that much to carry given proper gauge, you do remember that regular computer power cables are very, very thin cables? I'd even say regular house wiring gauge (rated over 1500w+ in most places) isn't even that thick or unreasonable to use in computers, and thats with one wire, while the 12 + 4 pin has 6 wires/pins for power, so I really doubt it'll be much of a bottleneck.
 

ppn

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The cables may be AWG 16 or 14, but the contacting surface of microfit is the same, has to conduct now more AMPs so it could get hot and burn, resistance.

I read that 12VHPWR is a part of ATX 3.0, so nothing is conflated, the latter is all about being able to handle the excursions. During the excursion the GPU goes to a picnic and there could be bears and it could end badly or it could just faint.
 
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Gimme some more of that Microfit, PCIE cables are always such a PITA to route these days, something smaller would be appreciated.
 
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On the bright side:
with the new High-Current, low-ripple, long-holdup +12V output, you absolutely can 'just hook car audio to your rig' now.

The neighbors are gonna be pissed.

Yup.

You could /theoretically/ wire a wall socket as 240V, but you might want to take some pains to remember that it's not 120V.

It's also probably hilariously not to code.
It's fairly to extremely easy to get 240VAC into your office or bedroom safely, and be 'NEC-compliant'.

For instance: a 20A branch used for floorboard, in-wall, or other electric heating can (to code) have the heaters disconnected and replaced with a single 250VAC-spec 30A NEMA receptacle. As long as there is only 1 receptacle on the 20A branch, and the heaters disconnected, it's both safe, and 'to code' to use a 30A receptacle.

If you are lucky enough to have the outlets in a single room all be off one branch, it would also be safe and 'to code' to replace those outlets with 250VAC NEMA receptacles (wiring and marking them with 'White as Red'). Then, in your breaker box, remove the neutral for that branch from the neutral bar, and connect (and mark) the white to the the other pole on a new 2-pole breaker. (The problem with this install: you cannot use 'normal' 120VAC devices in those outlets any longer. Running a new neutral would allow for having Kitchen-style split-phase or using a multi-voltage outlet.like dryer's do)

The last and arguably 'best' option: Just plop a 30+A 2-pole in your breaker box and run some 3C+Earth (appropriate gauge) thru the attic along the rafters, and down into your office. (There's a few ways, to code, that you can 'bring it down into' the living space)
If you want to make it a legitimate 'home improvement', set up the new run so it's easy to attach an EV charger to the branch (so it can be added before moving). If you're near your garage or outdoor work area/patio, setting it up as a 'welding receptacle' can be handy too (just don't weld using it while any computer equipment is hooked to it)
 

eidairaman1

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On the bright side:
with the new High-Current, low-ripple, long-holdup +12V output, you absolutely can 'just hook car audio to your rig' now.

The neighbors are gonna be pissed.


It's fairly to extremely easy to get 240VAC into your office or bedroom safely, and be 'NEC-compliant'.

For instance: a 20A branch used for floorboard, in-wall, or other electric heating can (to code) have the heaters disconnected and replaced with a single 250VAC-spec 30A NEMA receptacle. As long as there is only 1 receptacle on the 20A branch, and the heaters disconnected, it's both safe, and 'to code' to use a 30A receptacle.

If you are lucky enough to have the outlets in a single room all be off one branch, it would also be safe and 'to code' to replace those outlets with 250VAC NEMA receptacles (wiring and marking them with 'White as Red'). Then, in your breaker box, remove the neutral for that branch from the neutral bar, and connect (and mark) the white to the the other pole on a new 2-pole breaker. (The problem with this install: you cannot use 'normal' 120VAC devices in those outlets any longer. Running a new neutral would allow for having Kitchen-style split-phase or using a multi-voltage outlet.like dryer's do)

The last and arguably 'best' option: Just plop a 30+A 2-pole in your breaker box and run some 3C+Earth (appropriate gauge) thru the attic along the rafters, and down into your office. (There's a few ways, to code, that you can 'bring it down into' the living space)
If you want to make it a legitimate 'home improvement', set up the new run so it's easy to attach an EV charger to the branch (so it can be added before moving). If you're near your garage or outdoor work area/patio, setting it up as a 'welding receptacle' can be handy too (just don't weld using it while any computer equipment is hooked to it)
A 250V 30A NEMA minimum wire gauge is AWG 10 over 25Ft.
 
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It's a bit funny that such a long "infomercial" about power supply forgets to mention the power rating of the supply. :-D

I know you can quite safely deduce it from the name, Ai1300P, or from sentences like:

"As shown in the chart below, the MEG Ai1300P PCIE5 maintains the OPP level of 1300 W x 1.25 at 1623.55 W.

Or from the first hashtag, "#1300 W".

But still, you'd think that would be the most important information about the product. Or are we past that, a bit embarrased that we're selling 1300 W power supply to a gamer that will use it to power a single GPU?
 
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It's for the monitoring. It's not for endless reconnections, you plug it when you install the PSU. MiniUSB is fine for the purpose.
It may be fine bandwidth wise. But we are talking about a high end PSU released in 2022. The expectation is that it would use a more modern USB standard for monitoring.
Even USB-B > USB-A based on 2.0 would be more appropriate. You know the same that monitors use for it's USB ports.
 

Frick

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It may be fine bandwidth wise. But we are talking about a high end PSU released in 2022. The expectation is that it would use a more modern USB standard for monitoring.
Even USB-B > USB-A based on 2.0 would be more appropriate. You know the same that monitors use for it's USB ports.

Why? If it's cheaper, simpler and fulfills the requirements why not use it?
 
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Why? If it's cheaper, simpler and fulfills the requirements why not use it?
The connector is just bad design and fails sooner than others. Like i said. This is a high end product released in 2022. For example you can be sure i will criticize any company releasing a high end monitor that still uses HDMI 2.0 in 2022. Same with using Mini-USB or Micro-USB.

Also cost wise only USB-C is more expensive for OEM's. But considering that this is a high end product with higher margins i fail to see the need for cost cutting here.
 
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The connector is just bad design and fails sooner than others. Like i said. This is a high end product released in 2022. For example you can be sure i will criticize any company releasing a high end monitor that still uses HDMI 2.0 in 2022. Same with using Mini-USB or Micro-USB.

Also cost wise only USB-C is more expensive for OEM's. But considering that this is a high end product with higher margins i fail to see the need for cost cutting here.
Whether or not its actually high end is yet to be determined. There may well be a reason why they cheaped out on the data cable.
Don't forget, Gigabyte was the first to claim they had an atx 3.0 unit ready to go and it couldn't meet the requirements. I expect more from a cwt built unit but who knows until its been tested.
Either way, its a mb company. What do you honestly expect? If it doesn't directly benefit the bottom line, they aren't going to over engineer anything.
 
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Do we need a 600w connector? Are GPUs realistically going to pull 600W? If so I dont want it. Even 300w in an add-in card already requires 3 fans and a 3+ slot thick cooler to keep temps and noise within reason.
Water cooling? Although the heat has to be taken out of the case at some point, so you can't really save on fans but the solutions are there.
 

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The connector is just bad design and fails sooner than others. Like i said. This is a high end product released in 2022. For example you can be sure i will criticize any company releasing a high end monitor that still uses HDMI 2.0 in 2022. Same with using Mini-USB or Micro-USB.

Why would it fail? You plug it in on installation and leave it there. And HDMI 2.0 is fine for so many things. Also see the comment above about "high end".
 
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The connector is just bad design and fails sooner than others. Like i said. This is a high end product released in 2022. For example you can be sure i will criticize any company releasing a high end monitor that still uses HDMI 2.0 in 2022. Same with using Mini-USB or Micro-USB.

Also cost wise only USB-C is more expensive for OEM's. But considering that this is a high end product with higher margins i fail to see the need for cost cutting here.
Not if HDMi 2.0 is sufficient to drive the display. It's not like 2.1 or 2.2 is super durable compared to 2.0........
 
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Do we need a 600w connector? Are GPUs realistically going to pull 600W? If so I dont want it. Even 300w in an add-in card already requires 3 fans and a 3+ slot thick cooler to keep temps and noise within reason.

Yeah I want just one plug that can supply that much. Doesn't have to use that much all the time, and helps clear cable clutter.
 
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