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What's your latest tech purchase?

Why do you need so many threads ripped ?
Because :D I do crunching for WCG, Rosetta and such like, I like threads :D Besides, 32 threads is so last month....
Hi,
TechN is better than heatkiller likely the same price to.
Prefer the look of the Heatkiller in the setup and to be honest, the difference of a 1 degree I wouldn't care or notice because I'd open a window or turn the fans up a little more :laugh: 10 degrees, now that's a little different :)
 
Heatkiller is a much more established brand too, shame they don't do founders card waterblocks, just reference.
 
Because :D I do crunching for WCG, Rosetta and such like, I like threads :D Besides, 32 threads is so last month....

Prefer the look of the Heatkiller in the setup and to be honest, the difference of a 1 degree I wouldn't care or notice because I'd open a window or turn the fans up a little more :laugh: 10 degrees, now that's a little different :)
Hi,
My bad techN doesn't even make a threadripper block :eek:
 
Hi,
My bad techN doesn't even make a threadripper block :eek:
That might be a problem.... :laugh: I use mostly EK blocks for AM4 rigs aside from the AIO's I have... The were bought in a sale or second hand so wasn't such a problem :)
 
That might be a problem.... :laugh: I use mostly EK blocks for AM4 rigs aside from the AIO's I have... The were bought in a sale or second hand so wasn't such a problem :)
Hi,
Yep no way, well no easy way to mount a am4 or 5 water block on thread ripper socket it's huge :cool:
 

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This is my gaming setup now im sitting in a recliner.
 
@Shrek , I should of led with: pc is outside the case at the moment, for ease of whatever. The Silverstone Raven RV05 that is going into has two 180mm fans , barely noticeable at their lowest fans speed setting.
Got everything out of it to do proper measurements and I found at least one 360mm by 180mm by 42mm on sale, that will fit need be.
That fan is there for the RAM if I push it to 1.38V
 
This one was an unexpected used purchase lottery win. I was going to modchip a PS1 myself, turns out it already has one! And it plays "backup" CD's perfectly fine. All my original game discs are long gone so that's excellent.


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And a quality one! Excellent score!

Whoever did it went to some effort to actually route it on top of the shield. Part number is 12C509 so it's an MM3 modchip, which is the one you want for most PS1's.
 
This one was an unexpected used purchase lottery win. I was going to modchip a PS1 myself, turns out it already has one! And it plays "backup" CD's perfectly fine. All my original game discs are long gone so that's excellent.


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There are also optical drive emulator mods out there if you wanna do some soldering.
 
I have now the slowest pcie geforce card ever made. This is the Geforce PCX5300 (PCX5700 PCB). It has fx5200 Agp GPU + bridge chip and 128mb 64bit 5ns (ddr400) ram.
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^ Benchmark it, do it now!

My latest purchase, and last requirement for my new build.

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if its not to late to return this, I'd consider getting your money back, 3080 TI's brand new are selling for 749.99 to 789.99 at the moment at major official retailers in USA. very small extra price to pay for going from used possible miner card to a bump in FPS and brand new out the door... just my two cents.

edit: I just found a rtx 3080 ti brand new at best buy shipped and sold by best buy official website for $739.99 - see below for the card model, its in stock.

MSI - NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti Ventus 12GB OC GDDR6X PCI Express 4.0 Graphic Card​

You have a great point.

I just checked my receipt, and my 30-day return policy would end this Thursday, the 8th.

Unfortunately, I work all this week and am pretty much unwilling to make a six hour round-trip drive to the Microcenter in Kansas City to return it :cry:
 
More keycap fun for me, bought a set of Gradient PBT shine through keycap for my Ducky Shine (will have to check which model it is as I have too many Duckys). Also got an Orico 10gbps external case for a Crucial P1 500GB NVMe M.2 2280 SSD that I'm gonna be using when I'm overseas.
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Also got a set of 104 G. Skill Crystal Crown keycaps, since it's just 104 keycaps, I'd had to get a set of blank R4 keycaps to fill in the top right (media keys I think), doesn't matter to me as I don't use 'em anyway. Oh yeah, this is one of my fav keyboards, Ducky Shine 2 78 Edition. These G. Skill keycaps are of much better quality than those PPudding keycaps I'd gotten earlier.
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Ordered a new battery for my phone. I hope it survives the swap.
 
Got a used Gammaxx 300 for $10, looks almost mint after a clean up.

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Shiit Saga + preamp on the used market. Looks mint and even came with the factory box and manual, (the thing by the logo looks like a scratch but its just a piece of dirt). The Saga + is a tube pre but it also has a solid state mode as well as a completely passive attenuation mode so I'll get to play around and experiment with the tube in vs. out of the path which was kinda the idea as this is the first tube anything I've ever owned.

I also picked up four Russian tubes from Ukraine off eBay so I'm also support the war effect, lol.
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Amp will be a class D 100 watts into 8ohn, 200 into 4 ICEpower 200 ASC in a Ghent Audio enclosure, Marantz and Emotiva amongst a bunch of others use ICEpower tech. Its further along than whats pictured here but still only half assembled as I think I was sent the wrong wiring harness to go from the power switch to the primary board that contains the PSU.

Also have a class A Nelons Pass ACA amp kit but I haven't opend that box yet and that one is a bare PCB and components that all need to soldered.
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Primary board that contains both the PSU and one of the channels of the amplifier.


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Second channel that shares the PSU from the primary board.



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Amp enclosure with the pile parts; binding posts, XLR connectors, feet, standoffs, ect.



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Enclosure, front and rear panel.


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Thick (8mm I think?) front panel, and Panasonic power switch.


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Wire harness to make it all work..... most of it anyway.
 
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Shiit Saga + preamp on the used market. Looks mint and even came with the factory box and manual, (the thing by the logo looks like a scratch but its just a piece of dirt). The Saga + is a tube pre but it also has a solid state mode as well as a completely passive attenuation mode so I'll get to play around and experiment with the tube in vs. out of the path which was kinda the idea as this is the first tube anything I've ever owned.

I also picked up four Russian tubes from Ukraine off eBay so I'm also support the war effect, lol.
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Amp will be a class D 100 watts into 8ohn, 200 into 4 ICEpower 200 ASC in a Ghent Audio enclosure. Still only half assembled though as I think I was sent the wrong wiring harness.

Also have a class A Nelons Pass ACA amp kit but I haven't opend that box yet.
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I have always been interested in Pre-Amps, but i have never had a super hardcore setup. My current setup is Asgard 2 and Modi 3.

What exactly does a pre-amp do? I am guessing it is only for speaker systems, not headphones? Why is the speaker amp not sufficient? Why would someone want a pre-amp and amp? Sorry if I sound dumb, I just have no idea about any of this stuff.
 
Me: "Graphics cards cost too much!"

Also me: "Let's spend half a Benjamin on fans!"

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Oh yeah, also these:

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Was going to wait till Ryzen 7000 series to do the upgrade but my local Microcenter had too good of a deal to pass up.

Open box H670 motherboard, open box i5 12400, and open box 2x16GB DDR4 all for a combined $300

Too good of a deal to pass up, got all 3 parts for what the 7600X itself would of cost and all 3 parts for like $50 more then what my i7 3770k cost back in 2013. Once 14th gen comes out they'll slash the 13th gen i7 to sub $250 and then i'll do one final upgrade on the platform and it should last till 2025
 
I have always been interested in Pre-Amps, but i have never had a super hardcore setup. My current setup is Asgard 2 and Modi 3.

What exactly does a pre-amp do? I am guessing it is only for speaker systems, not headphones? Why is the speaker amp not sufficient? Why would someone want a pre-amp and amp? Sorry if I sound dumb, I just have no idea about any of this stuff.

Even though I grew up around this stuff I'm not really an expect either, but a preamp is essentially a circuit that attenuates or amplifies a low level source from a DAC, turntable, CD player, ect and then outputs a voltage a power amplifer is expecting to see that then drives your speakers or headphones. Its also, usually has multiple inputs but thats not really required. Any integrated amp has a preamp section built in and your Asgard is a preamp because it has pre-outs.

Noise and distortion is a factor in the preamplification stage so most think a dedicated preamp is better than building it into the amplifier itself. As to why its mostly a speaker thing and not so much with headphones, I'd guess thats probably do to the power level differences involved in what is required to drive speakers vs. headphones. It would be much easier to build and isolate headphone amp circuit and keep it from influencing the preamp stage than it would be to in amplifier thats dealing with amounts of watts needed to drive speakers.
 
I bought one of these on an open box deal (with full warranty) for $300 including taxes Saturday afternoon. For the price I couldn't turn it down. I needed another HDMI 2.1 display for my i5 12600K/Z690 rig with a XFX Speedster Merc 319 RX 6800 XT in it. At 4K it looks fabulous.
VIZIO 50" Class M7 Series 4K QLED HDR Smart TV M50Q7-J01 - Best Buy
 
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