TPU's Nostalgic Hardware Club

[AlwaysHope]

Does anybody here have experience with 2009~2013 systems and Windows 10?
I wonder if Windows 10 would somehow affect the performance of X48/X58/X79 systems (and period correct video cards) compared to Windows 7

I know others have already commented on this with your request of Intel platforms. However if your interested with AMD, have an AM3 system here running an 890GX chipset motherboard no problems at all with win10 & all the latest OS updates of course. It's used only for lite stuff, but good enough.

 

[Greenslade]

Yep, pull the drive and set the jumper to slave and see if that helps.

Sata driives don,t have jumpers, only IDE drives.
I have sorted it I changed the drive over and put the os drive on the top and the other drive underneath. After looking at the Dell sight , someone was talking about adding a second drive, Glad I got that sorted.

 

[Deleted member 185158]

Sata driives don,t have jumpers, only IDE drives.
I have sorted it I changed the drive over and put the os drive on the top and the other drive underneath. After looking at the Dell sight , someone was talking about adding a second drive, Glad I got that sorted.

They do have jumpers, swear they do. But maybe not for cable select or master and slave. But sata spinners have jumpers!!

(At work, so can't look it up)

Glad you gotz it sorteded. Good on ya mate!!

 

[Count von Schwalbe]

They do have jumpers, swear they do. But maybe not for cable select or master and slave. But sata spinners have jumpers!!

(At work, so can't look it up)

Glad you gotz it sorteded. Good on ya mate!!

Yup, see attached image. I have a faint memory that it is to set the SATA revision but I could be way off base.

 

[Deleted member 185158]

Yup, see attached image. I have a faint memory that it is to set the SATA revision but I could be way off base.

Ah yes. 1.5gb/s or 3gb/s connection. Gotcha!

 

[Greenslade]

They do have jumpers, swear they do. But maybe not for cable select or master and slave. But sata spinners have jumpers!!

(At work, so can't look it up)

Glad you gotz it sorteded. Good on ya mate!!

Thanks, I am trying to get the PC someone threw out. I don,t suppose anyone can help.PC turns on fans running. ethernet cable shows light and blinks. The mouse and keyboard have no lights. Even when using the PS/2 mouse and keyboard. The Floppy drive not working when I put a floppy disc in no light.T5 shows a light when plugged in all USB ports. No signal on the monitor. I put an OS in the drive but nothing. It is an old HP as you can tell by having a floppy drive in it. I am not expecting to get this working.
It would be nice if I could though.

 

[Deleted member 185158]

Thanks, I am trying to get the PC someone threw out. I don,t suppose anyone can help.PC turns on fans running. ethernet cable shows light and blinks. The mouse and keyboard have no lights. Even when using the PS/2 mouse and keyboard. The Floppy drive not working when I put a floppy disc in no light.T5 shows a light when plugged in all USB ports. No signal on the monitor. I put an OS in the drive but nothing. It is an old HP as you can tell by having a floppy drive in it. I am not expecting to get this working.
It would be nice if I could though.

No beeps?

 

[Greenslade]

No beeps?

No beeps.but the funny thing is i think the wrong ram is in there.It does not click in place.But if it was the wrong ram it would bleep.I am trying to see the actual modal number.I did put this on here sometime ago and told me what modal it was but i have forgotten what modal it is.

 

[Deleted member 185158]

No beeps.but the funny thing is i think the wrong ram is in there.It does not click in place.But if it was the wrong ram it would bleep.

All hp boards beep. Under all circumstances.

The board is fubar.

 

[68Olds]

Thanks, I am trying to get the PC someone threw out. I don,t suppose anyone can help.PC turns on fans running. ethernet cable shows light and blinks. The mouse and keyboard have no lights. Even when using the PS/2 mouse and keyboard. The Floppy drive not working when I put a floppy disc in no light.T5 shows a light when plugged in all USB ports. No signal on the monitor. I put an OS in the drive but nothing. It is an old HP as you can tell by having a floppy drive in it. I am not expecting to get this working.
It would be nice if I could though.

Some (but not all) floppy drive cables are not keyed, which means they can be plugged in backwards. See if you can verify both ends of the ribbon cable are installed correctly. There is a "pin 1" mark on the cable and slots.
Pull the RAM & you should get a "bad or missing ram" beep.

 

[Greenslade]

Some (but not all) floppy drive cables are not keyed, which means they can be plugged in backwards. See if you can verify both ends of the ribbon cable are installed correctly. There is a "pin 1" mark on the cable and slots.
Pull the RAM & you should get a "bad or missing ram" beep.

I have disconnected the floppy drive.This is the ram you said i should get for it.but it does not click in like it should, but i don,t get any beeps Do you remember what modal the PC is i know it is a HP Compact.I have seen simuler ones but not the one
i have it is a pentium 4.If i new the modal number i would look it up to check the ram it uses.

 

[68Olds]

That should be the correct RAM (DDR). Do the RAM key(s) line up with the RAM slot? The key is circled in the picture.

 

[Greenslade]

That should be the correct RAM (DDR). Do the RAM key(s) line up with the RAM slot? The key is circled in the picture.

View attachment 266001

This is something I did not expect, I changed it and disconnected the four-pin PSU connecter, and put the ram in another slot and all lights are on and this message on the screen. I am totally amazed I got this to work. I dare say I will have to put a new CMOS battery in it. If I do manage to get it fully working with an OS on it.
Will I be able to take it out of this case? and put it in a new case? bearing in mind it is an HP PC? This is looking more promising than the Dell. unfortunately, there must be Windows 7 on the IDE drive and got the blue screen message. I tried reconnecting the floppy drive no lights did not work. There is only one way to connect the IDE cabal and the Molex cabal to a floppy drive. you can only put it in one way. I will have to change the IDE HDD and hope there is nothing on that.

I put another IDE HDD in and an OS in the drive, And came up with this message
Set up cannot install Windows on your computer
Your computer does not have a hard disk, your hard disk is not functioning correctly , or your hard disk requires a special device driver
What does it, meanSpecial device driver? I was going to put Windows ME on it.I suppose i could put Windows 98 on it.

 

[Audioave10]

Retro Hardware doing some crazy stuff...............

 

[Valantar]

No beeps.but the funny thing is i think the wrong ram is in there.It does not click in place.But if it was the wrong ram it would bleep.I am trying to see the actual modal number.I did put this on here sometime ago and told me what modal it was but i have forgotten what modal it is.

There's quite clearly a good deal of gunk in at least the first two of those RAM slots, so it's no wonder if the RAM isn't seating properly.

I also see several bulging caps in that last pic, both of the ones directly left of the RAM slots (the top one is even crusty, indicating that it's likely vented/leaked), and one towards the end of the second PCI slot.

Caps circled in blue, dirt in the RAM slots in red.

 

[ExcuseMeWtf]

Retro Hardware doing some crazy stuff...............

Technically, Hydralogix wasn't SLI, it was more like GPU-agnostic solution, where you could literally pair AMD and nVidia cards together.

Sadly, it had many of the issues of SLI/CF, except magnified:

HydraLogix Vs. SLI And CrossFire: MSI's P55A Fuzion Tested

LucidLogix forges ahead with its promise of multi-GPU compatibility across multiple graphics architectures and platforms. Today we see how its latest drivers stand up to the performance standards of CrossFire and SLI on a much more cost-sensitive board.

www.tomshardware.com

 

[Greenslade]

I am trying to put a second ide drive in to my Athlon 2400 so i can format it to use in my HP Compaq but when i put a second drive in there it says there is no system in there,when there is.It boots up every time.But comes up with that when there are two drives in there.

There's quite clearly a good deal of gunk in at least the first two of those RAM slots, so it's no wonder if the RAM isn't seating properly.

I also see several bulging caps in that last pic, both of the ones directly left of the RAM slots (the top one is even crusty, indicating that it's likely vented/leaked), and one towards the end of the second PCI slot.

Caps circled in blue, dirt in the RAM slots in red.

Thanks for the bad news So I gather from what you say the PC is on its
on its way out how long would it last with the caps like that? As you know I am not a tech person.

I am now having problems with

There's quite clearly a good deal of gunk in at least the first two of those RAM slots, so it's no wonder if the RAM isn't seating properly.

I also see several bulging caps in that last pic, both of the ones directly left of the RAM slots (the top one is even crusty, indicating that it's likely vented/leaked), and one towards the end of the second PCI slot.

Caps circled in blue, dirt in the RAM slots in red.

That is weird I have put the drive in my Athlon 2400 trying to delete it for the PC you see the bad caps. and it sees no drives in there only the CD ROM. I had set the jumper on the internal one in the Athlon to Master it was previously on cable select from the person I bought the PC from that was working fine. The second drive I set to Slave. Ide drivers are a pain. I discounted the Slave drive but it is still saying no Master when that is the only drive on there. ?All I am trying to do is wipe the second drive so I can put it in the other PC so I can get an OS on it but from your reply to me it probably is not worth doing.

 

[Valantar]

Thanks for the bad news So I gather from what you say the PC is on its
on its way out how long would it last with the caps like that? As you know I am not a tech person.

That's pretty much impossible to say - the main function of capacitors like that is smoothing out voltages supplied to various components, so them failing would first and foremost lead to components getting noisier power, which may or may not be a problem depending on how noisy the incoming power is and the tolerances of the components. But a failed cap can also introduce weird resistances or otherwise affect power delivery in strange ways, or even short to ground (the latter is rare, and would shut down your motherboard/PSU at once, so that's clearly not the case here). Dead caps can lead to a heap of different and very unpredictable issues, in other words, from difficult-to-diagnose system instability to components not quite working as they should to the system not working at all. Or everything might work fine! I've seen all kinds of outcomes across the web. YMMV.

(There's also the secondary issue of capacitor electrolyte being quite corrosive and destroying PCBs if left on them over time, but it doesn't look like any of yours have leaked onto the board yet.)

Still, that board definitely needs re-capping if you want to keep using it. Caps are cheap, and through-hole soldering isn't the most difficult, but unless you have a decent soldering iron and some experience (or are willing to invest time and some money to get there) if I were you I'd look around for any local retro computer enthusiasts that might be willing and able to help you out getting the board fixed up. Recapping is pretty universal across all retro electronics, so even someone used to working on old game consoles or similar could likely help you out, you'd just need to source capacitors matching the specs of the ones on the board.

 

[Ruru]

I did not know Sata drives had jumpers.I thought they were just for IDE drives pressed this https://i.ytimg.com/vi/h2rabbDBruQ/maxresdefault.jpg and came back to the same thing to restart I disconnected the data cabal and get the OS ,
I have never heard of a PC that can only work with one drive

I've seen only some SATA HDDs with a jumper which puts it to SATA1 mode as some older (especially with VIA chipset) motherboards do not like SATA2 drives.

Also there's nothing special having just one drive, especially with modern machines. Hell, some people have even abandoned SATA SSDs and use purely M.2 drives these days.

Technically, Hydralogix wasn't SLI, it was more like GPU-agnostic solution, where you could literally pair AMD and nVidia cards together.

Sadly, it had many of the issues of SLI/CF, except magnified:

HydraLogix Vs. SLI And CrossFire: MSI's P55A Fuzion Tested

LucidLogix forges ahead with its promise of multi-GPU compatibility across multiple graphics architectures and platforms. Today we see how its latest drivers stand up to the performance standards of CrossFire and SLI on a much more cost-sensitive board.

www.tomshardware.com

Never even knew that any AMD board has that interesting feature. I just remember the hype back in the day and well, as it did sound good on paper, the implemention wasn't that good like seen on RETRO Hardware's video even with similar cards. Having AMD + Nvidia combined the mess would've probably been even worse.

 

[Greenslade]

That's pretty much impossible to say - the main function of capacitors like that is smoothing out voltages supplied to various components, so them failing would first and foremost lead to components getting noisier power, which may or may not be a problem depending on how noisy the incoming power is and the tolerances of the components. But a failed cap can also introduce weird resistances or otherwise affect power delivery in strange ways, or even short to ground (the latter is rare, and would shut down your motherboard/PSU at once, so that's clearly not the case here). Dead caps can lead to a heap of different and very unpredictable issues, in other words, from difficult-to-diagnose system instability to components not quite working as they should to the system not working at all. Or everything might work fine! I've seen all kinds of outcomes across the web. YMMV.

(There's also the secondary issue of capacitor electrolyte being quite corrosive and destroying PCBs if left on them over time, but it doesn't look like any of yours have leaked onto the board yet.)

Still, that board definitely needs re-capping if you want to keep using it. Caps are cheap, and through-hole soldering isn't the most difficult, but unless you have a decent soldering iron and some experience (or are willing to invest time and some money to get there) if I were you I'd look around for any local retro computer enthusiasts that might be willing and able to help you out getting the board fixed up. Recapping is pretty universal across all retro electronics, so even someone used to working on old game consoles or similar could likely help you out, you'd just need to source capacitors matching the specs of the ones on the board.there no good unless i can delete and gormay themI am at a loss to know why i can,t put two drives on here when i am doing the fight stuff.

 

[Ruru]

Just put the drives to cable select mode and they assign their "roles" automatically from their placement on the cable like this.

 

[Deleted member 185158]

Just put the drives to cable select mode and they assign their "roles" automatically from their placement on the cable like this.

View attachment 266168

I may be wrong, but you cable select on 80 wire and the drives must be jumpered on 40 wire Ata cables.

 

[Ruru]

I may be wrong, but you cable select on 80 wire and the drives must be jumpered on 40 wire Ata cables.

Haven't heard that before. The 80-wire cable is just for ATA/66 and above, doesn't affect cable select AFAIK.

 

[Deleted member 185158]

Haven't heard that before. The 80-wire cable is just for ATA/66 and above, doesn't affect cable select AFAIK.

Something about UDMA controller... I honestly don't remember...

 

[Ruru]

Something about UDMA controller... I honestly don't remember...

The extra wires are just for error correcting if I remember right