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| System Name | Purple Haze | Vacuum Box |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D (-30 CO) | Intel® Xeon® E3-1241 v3 |
| Motherboard | MSI B450 Tomahawk Max | Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD5H |
| Cooling | Dark Rock 4 Pro, P14, P12, T30 case fans | 212 Evo & P12 PWM PST x2, Arctic P14 & P12 case fans |
| Memory | 32GB Ballistix (Micron E 19nm) CL16 @3733MHz | 32GB HyperX Beast 2400MHz (XMP) |
| Video Card(s) | AMD 6900XTXH ASRock OC Formula & Phanteks T30x3 | AMD 5700XT Sapphire Nitro+ & Arctic P12x2 |
| Storage | ADATA SX8200 Pro 1TB, Toshiba P300 3TB x2 | Kingston A400 120GB, Fanxiang S500 Pro 256GB |
| Display(s) | TCL C805 50" 2160p 144Hz VA miniLED, Mi 27" 1440p 165Hz IPS, AOC 24G2U 1080p 144Hz IPS |
| Case | Modded MS Industrial Titan II Pro RGB | Heavily Modded Cooler Master Q500L |
| Audio Device(s) | Audient iD14 MKII, Adam Audio T8Vs, Bloody M550, HiFiMan HE400se, Tascam TM-80, DS4 v2 |
| Power Supply | Rosewill Capstone 1000M | Enermax Revolution X't 730W (both with P14 fans) |
| Mouse | Logitech G305, Bloody A91, Amazon basics, Logitech M187 |
| Keyboard | Redragon K530, Bloody B930, Epomaker TH80 SE, BTC 9110 |
| Software | W10LTSC 21H2, PBO2, FF, MusicBee, mpv, ImageGlass, OpenRGB, FanControl, Greenshot, DS4Win, Signal |
Decided to make a thread to share information from my own experience, and to encourage others as well, so that one day we could have one place to go for information about thermal pads thickness for specific GPU models. Searching through the internet for a bit of an info on this topic can be tiresome and not many people like to spend their time hiking through the toxic wastelands of Reddit.
So if you are a brave adventurer who decided to take your precious GPU apart to repaste and change the factory pads, skillful enough to use a caliper, please share your findings!
We all know how disturbing it is to teardown a GPU and then figure you don't have the right pads for the job, and those destroyed factory pads mostly on mosfets and VRAM might start crawling into your dreams. So let's try to maker it easier.
I'll make an example with my Asrock 6900XT OC Formula:
Purple ones 2mm;
Green 1,5mm.
It's all 3mm pads between the PCB and the backplate. The ones marked in green aren't there from the factory, but I still added them.
Before adding the pads, one should observe position of the components cooled with the pads vs. the cooler by attaching the cooler on the bare PCB and looking from the sides. There is a slight offset regarding the MOSFETs on both sides for this particular GPU.
Coming up next: Sapphire 5700XT Nitro+ in a day or two, and Aorus GTX 1060 when I finally get missing parts for another PC I don't really need.
So if you are a brave adventurer who decided to take your precious GPU apart to repaste and change the factory pads, skillful enough to use a caliper, please share your findings!
We all know how disturbing it is to teardown a GPU and then figure you don't have the right pads for the job, and those destroyed factory pads mostly on mosfets and VRAM might start crawling into your dreams. So let's try to maker it easier.
I'll make an example with my Asrock 6900XT OC Formula:
Purple ones 2mm;
Green 1,5mm.
It's all 3mm pads between the PCB and the backplate. The ones marked in green aren't there from the factory, but I still added them.
Before adding the pads, one should observe position of the components cooled with the pads vs. the cooler by attaching the cooler on the bare PCB and looking from the sides. There is a slight offset regarding the MOSFETs on both sides for this particular GPU.
Coming up next: Sapphire 5700XT Nitro+ in a day or two, and Aorus GTX 1060 when I finally get missing parts for another PC I don't really need.
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BTW, one that's about to change pads should pay attention to all details, and the difference between front and back is the crucial one. Mostly you don't need to change ones on the back, as they are always thick and won't get easily torn.