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Ruru

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P4 mATX.



Halved the RAM to "only" 4GB as I dropped the thought of using anything else than WinXP on this. Reinstalled the OS, now installing drivers, then some software and then let's play. I'm pretty sure that X800GT is fine with 2003-2005 games at 720p.

Now that I've found pretty ok overclocks for the GPU (475/490 at stock), let's unleash the P4. :toast:

3dmark03_gpuoc.PNG


ARGH! That board just won't go over 220FSB, no matter the CPU. So screw P4, I have an E4300 @ 1.98GHz there and that shall power that rig :laugh:

If that X800GT starts to be too slow, I may end up with a 8800 GT or something. Though the Radeon is kinda like 9800 XT with a terrible amount of steroids, so it's actually a good pick.
 
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P4 mATX.



Halved the RAM to "only" 4GB as I dropped the thought of using anything else than WinXP on this. Reinstalled the OS, now installing drivers, then some software and then let's play. I'm pretty sure that X800GT is fine with 2003-2005 games at 720p.

Now that I've found pretty ok overclocks for the GPU (475/490 at stock), let's unleash the P4. :toast:

View attachment 301046

ARGH! That board just won't go over 220FSB, no matter the CPU. So screw P4, I have an E4300 @ 1.98GHz there and that shall power that rig :laugh:

If that X800GT starts to be too slow, I may end up with a 8800 GT or something. Though the Radeon is kinda like 9800 XT with a terrible amount of steroids, so it's actually a good pick.
8800GT is a very nice card, I still have & occasionally use mine in a secondary system (used for every-day operations).


If the case layout seems familiar, that's because I already featured it recently. Except that other photo was from 2007, when it was still a Pentium 4 system with Thermaltake BlueOrb cooler.


Here's the card itself, 8800GT with 512MB of VRAM. Gainward edition:
 
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You need to type d: (not just D) then hit enter. That will change the prompt path from C:\Documents and Settings\Tim> to D:\>
Then you can type whatide & hit enter again.
Sorry, DOS commands can be a pita.


I look through the For Sale section and see things getting bought. I don't buy as many used parts as I used to because I'm no longer benchmarking, and I am retired (fixed income).
You could start by selling a single item and see how it goes for you. I know a lot of time can go into taking pictures and getting items prepped for shipping if you have a lot to sell.
Something must have happened to the SD card when it was on the board.Because there is a tiny Dos partion on it.When i tried to format the disk it mentioned about being read only . :(I would have thought someone could have answered my question , weather or not the tub of screws and nuts would be the right size for the SD to IDE adapter.I asked a seller he just said look at the picture.I also said i only needed 4.And that the other screws could come in handy in the future.I just
noticed that was from a Chinese seller.I did send the same message.to a UK seller with no reply o_OIt does say
600Pcs / Set Stainless Steel Nuts Bolts small Screws Kits Assorted M1/M1.2/M1.4

Application: for watches, glasses, electronics or anything else repair that requires small screws.

1686914624816.png
 

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Something must have happened to the SD card when it was on the board.Because there is a tiny Dos partion on it.When i tried to format the disk it mentioned about being read only . :(I would have thought someone could have answered my question , weather or not the tub of screws and nuts would be the right size for the SD to IDE adapter.I asked a seller he just said look at the picture.I also said i only needed 4.And that the other screws could come in handy in the future.I just
noticed that was from a Chinese seller.I did send the same message.to a UK seller with no reply o_OIt does say
600Pcs / Set Stainless Steel Nuts Bolts small Screws Kits Assorted M1/M1.2/M1.4

Application: for watches, glasses, electronics or anything else repair that requires small screws.

View attachment 301241
I know screws for a watch or glasses are much smaller than what's used in a PC, so that kit won't be of any help. As for the sizes of screws for PCs, I'm in 'Murica & we don't use the metric system. I know all the screws are metric, but don't know the sizes. Sorry.
 
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I know screws for a watch or glasses are much smaller than what's used in a PC, so that kit won't be of any help. As for the sizes of screws for PCs, I'm in 'Murica & we don't use the metric system. I know all the screws are metric, but don't know the sizes. Sorry.
The industry standard for computer screws are M3. Those are the ones used for optical drives, floppy disks & securing the motherboard into the standoffs. Everything else are threaded Phillips ones with hex flange heads, commonly used on hard drives, case covers & power supplies.

For the sake of comparison, M2.5 are those tiny screws commonly used on turntables, for securing the phono cartridge onto the headshell.
 
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Power Supply Seasonic Focus GM-750
Mouse HP Gaming wired
Keyboard Logitech G110 wired
VR HMD HP WMR 1440^2
Software Win10 Pro 64bit
The industry standard for computer screws are M3. Those are the ones used for optical drives, floppy disks & securing the motherboard into the standoffs. Everything else are threaded Phillips ones with hex flange heads, commonly used on hard drives, case covers & power supplies.

For the sake of comparison, M2.5 are those tiny screws commonly used on turntables, for securing the phono cartridge onto the headshell.
So what you recommend for an assortment kit for Greenslade? Something like an assortment from M2.5-M2.75 up to M3.25-M3.5? I know I have some larger and smaller than the standard size for HDD rails (for example).
 
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So what you recommend for an assortment kit for Greenslade? Something like an assortment from M2.5-M2.75 up to M3.25-M3.5? I know I have some larger and smaller than the standard size for HDD rails (for example).
No, there is really nothing else to recommend or to comment... All the computer components, either SSD to HDD adapters OR the case itself use M3 & hex-head threaded screws. So, what he needs is either a bag of M3 and/or threaded screws, which always come in handy sooner or later.

I have never seen a computer case or one of its components to use smaller or non-standardized screws, except in rare situations where they used hex Allen screws for the visual appearance, to make it look industrial & rugged.

Edit
And just to make it absolutely clear, this here is hex flange threaded screw:


...and this other one is M3, industry standard:

 
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@Kissamies
that should be a mod able card i think for the rops\ or shaders(pixel pipelines) maybe:
look here:


and i am not sure but there was a version from ati tool 27beta4 or if its the same as v26
 
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Ruru

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8800GT is a very nice card, I still have & occasionally use mine in a secondary system (used for every-day operations).


If the case layout seems familiar, that's because I already featured it recently. Except that other photo was from 2007, when it was still a Pentium 4 system with Thermaltake BlueOrb cooler.


Here's the card itself, 8800GT with 512MB of VRAM. Gainward edition:
I have this MSI card with a Zalman cooler preinstalled :)




@Kissamies
that should be a mod able card i think for the rops\ or shaders(pixel pipelines) maybe:
look here:


and i am not sure but there was a version from ati tool 27beta4 or if its the same as v26
Need to check that out, though this is now one fast 8-pipe card with 600MHz core :)
 
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I have this MSI card with a Zalman cooler preinstalled :)





Need to check that out, though this is now one fast 8-pipe card with 600MHz core :)
Oh yeah, I remember these. I even used to have a Zalman GPU cooler which came off Gigabyte-branded 8800GT in non-working condition.
 
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the cool thing with this cooler is it has holes for ati and nvidia cards so you could put in on nearly everything back then.
imagine this today
 
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(...)
imagine this today
I can't ... and couldn't even if I absolutely had to.

Next thing you're going to tell me is that there was a time when AMD & Intel used to share the same motherboard socket & CPU pinout.
 
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i think they had 3 holes so no prob,
even the special zalman

could fit on nv cards

have a nice weekend trekkie
 
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Ruru

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Screw that, might as well go all in. Put a 560 Ti with that C2D as that works flawlessly with XP. :laugh:

Hated that almost every card had a 64-bit SE model. 9800 SE 256bit was a good one though as with some luck, one might have it soft-modded and it performed just like a Pro.
 
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Don't know if anybody here has seen this but I thought it was really cool.

I had something similar in mind when I built my 486 system I have been using several months now. The particular motherboard I chose (after a lot of research) for my signature ALL ISA 486 build will run DOS/Windows 95 rock solid stable at 13.2MHz ISA and DOS but not Windows stable at 16.5MHz ISA. Hence I settled on IBM PC-DOS 7.0 as it's slightly lighter on resources then DOS 6.22, and I normally run 13.2MHz ISA when I'm gaming on the system (16.5MHz only when benching). Using a modified exe called FastDoom, my system will push 50-60fps in most areas of the original Doom levels and 52.6fps at 13.2MHz ISA and 55.5fps at 16.5MHz ISA in the 3DBench VGA benchmark. I credit the relatively unknown Symphony chipset and the WD90C31A video card for this performance. From my testing I think the WD90C31A (at least my DFI manufactured one) may be faster then the Tseng Labs ET4000AX, which is considered one of the fastest ISA cards. Overclocking the ISA bus definitely wakes up the VGA performance! When I built this system I set out to see if an all ISA 486 could compete with a VLB 486 system, and in my various benchmarks it is quite competitive with VLB systems based on the benchmarks I have seen on the internet.
 

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This one took me back.
I have worked on every one of these.
Cool. :) Did they have propriety parts on those PC,s?o_O
Or is that a more recent thing?o_O

No, there is really nothing else to recommend or to comment... All the computer components, either SSD to HDD adapters OR the case itself use M3 & hex-head threaded screws. So, what he needs is either a bag of M3 and/or threaded screws, which always come in handy sooner or later.

I have never seen a computer case or one of its components to use smaller or non-standardized screws, except in rare situations where they used hex Allen screws for the visual appearance, to make it look industrial & rugged.

Edit
And just to make it absolutely clear, this here is hex flange threaded screw:


...and this other one is M3, industry standard:

Thanks for that Trekkie4 :)

I have lots of those ,but i did want ones longer than them with nuts ,so it could be higher up on the try.
What would longer ones be called?And what do you call the one i put on here?

So what you recommend for an assortment kit for Greenslade? Something like an assortment from M2.5-M2.75 up to M3.25-M3.5? I know I have some larger and smaller than the standard size for HDD rails (for example).
thanks for asking others on here 68olds.:)
 

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This one took me back.
I have worked on every one of these.
Me too, I had GX110, both tower version & slim "pizza box". Let me see if I can find some of the photos...

Edit
Yes, I found them!
GX110 Tower:


GX110 Pizzabox:


I have lots of those ,but i did want ones longer than them with nuts ,so it could be higher up on the try.
What would longer ones be called?And what do you call the one i put on here?
Which ones, from that photo you posted? Because the answer to your question was already in the link itself. It says "600Pcs / Set Stainless Steel Nuts Bolts small Screws Kits Assorted M1/M1.2/M1.4".

Therefore, it has 600 pieces of M1, M1.2 & M1.4 screws. None of which are used for computer components, or even HiFi audio gear for that matter. Again, what you need is M3 and (if you need any) M3 nuts. Those have to be bought separately from the screws. All the M3 screws regardless of their length are called & referred to as "M3", but you need to specify how long you want & need them to be.

Usually when you buy "computer case M3 screws" you will get fixed, industry size length which is most commonly used inside computer cases. But yes, I suppose you COULD use long ones if you really want to just be careful. The longer the screw, the more likely it is to short something, or to chip something off ... a small PCB component for example, or bridge the two pins together. So use the longer ones ONLY if absolutely necessary.
 
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Ruru

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Storage 3.3TB of SSDs / several small SSDs
Display(s) 27" 4K120 IPS + 32" 4K60 IPS + 24" 1080p60
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Power Supply EVGA G2 750W / Fractal ION Gold 550W
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Keyboard Roccat Vulcan 121 AIMO / NOS C450 Mini Pro
VR HMD Oculus Rift CV1
Software Windows 11 Pro / Windows 11 Pro
Benchmark Scores They run Crysis
Me too, I had GX110, both tower version & slim "pizza box". Let me see if I can find some of the photos...

Edit
Yes, I found them!
GX110 Tower:


GX110 Pizzabox:
Too bad that those are non-standard, looks like a cool case for a sleeper build :)
 
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Software Microsoft Windows 98
Too bad that those are non-standard, looks like a cool case for a sleeper build :)
I suppose you could hack them one way or another, but actually I disagree. They had terrible air flow, which would put a limit on the performance & cause most of the components to overheat. I know, because I actually tried (and even made) something similar not so long ago:

Not sure if you have seen this one?


Looks like your average Celeron 300 ... or perhaps Pentium II at most, right?! Nope!


I should probably point out that none of the components (especially the case) had been cut or otherwise modified in any way, I wanted to keep it fully stock. Justin Case I ever decide to re-purpose this case for the chronologically-correct system. And so because of that it has terrible air flow, the only intake is a small 80x80 fan in the front. Graphics used to be 8600GTS, which was later upgraded to GTX550. Oddly enough, it doesn't seem to overheat & MOSTLY runs within normal temperature. I do say mostly, because if you keep pushing it over the limit you could easily cook the entire thing.

@Greenslade I wanted to address the matter of screws one more time. The easiest way to describe is through the HiFi & turntables, which (most commonly) use M2 & M2.5 size:


This one above was Shure M91GD, with M2.5 screws holding the cart in place. As you can tell, I was using longer screws at the time (18mm in length) which are ALSO M2.5 just like any other shorter ones, such as these for example:


Apart from being shorter, these other ones also had a different head (hex Allen) So you see, it doesn't matter how long or short they are, or which kind of screwdriver they require. What matters is the thread, and these are both M2.5. The same thing with computer case screws. They may (or may not) come in different shapes or forms, but they HAVE to be either M3 or threaded ones, to be of any help.
 

Ruru

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I suppose you could hack them one way or another, but actually I disagree. They had terrible air flow, which would put a limit on the performance & cause most of the components to overheat. I know, because I actually tried (and even made) something similar not so long ago:

Not sure if you have seen this one?


Looks like your average Celeron 300 ... or perhaps Pentium II at most, right?! Nope!


I should probably point out that none of the components (especially the case) had been cut or otherwise modified in any way, I wanted to keep it fully stock. Justin Case I ever decide to re-purpose this case for the chronologically-correct system. And so because of that it has terrible air flow, the only intake is a small 80x80 fan in the front. Graphics used to be 8600GTS, which was later upgraded to GTX550. Oddly enough, it doesn't seem to overheat & MOSTLY runs within normal temperature. I do say mostly, because if you keep pushing it over the limit you could easily cook the entire thing.
The space next to the I/O area seem to have some space, perhaps for a hole for a 80mm fan..? With some modifications, that could be more useful :)
 
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