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Cpu Overheating Problem

LyreX

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Hello guys, I am using AMD Athlon X4 640 processor. I renewed the thermal paste almost 1 month ago using Cooler Master. System idles at 70-80 degrees. In games and when I do a stress test, it goes up to 90-95 degrees and goes to shutdown. What do you think is the problem?
 
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Which cooler (type/model) are you using? Had a case once that lid on CPU is bent (not flat) and it caused the same issue.
 

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Sounds like the cooler isn't properly attached, can you post some clear photos of the cooler and system?
Those are not a high wattage, high heat CPU so they should be easy to keep cool with new paste every few years

They're supposed to be kept under 71c, what software did you use to get that reading?
 

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What are your room temperatures?

And what coolermaster are you using?
 
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I renewed the thermal paste almost 1 month ago using Cooler Master.
Why?

What were your temps before?

Once properly applied, TIM (thermal interface material) does not need to ever be replaced unless the cured bond between the mating surfaces is broken for some reason. That typically does not happen unless the cooler is removed, or the system is physically abused (bounced off the floor, or when the bond is broken when the user twists the cooler too hard to see if the cooler is loose! :rolleyes:

Once properly applied, TIM will easily last 5, 10 years or even longer AS LONG AS the cured bond is not broken. Even if it dries, the solids that remain are still doing their jobs of occupying the microscopic pits and valleys, preventing insulating air from getting in between the mating surfaces. Note the only reason TIM comes in a liquid form is to allow it to be squeezed out of the tube, and spread across the die evenly and easily.

Yes, a fresh new application of TIM might result in a "few" degrees of improved cooling. But if temps are already that close to thermal protection thresholds that you actually "need" those few degrees, you have other, more urgent cooling issues that need to be addressed first - like case cooling, for example.

Did you thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of old TIM before applying the new? TIM, once cured, should NEVER be re-used. I use 91-93% isopropyl alcohol and a cotton pad, or fine microfiber cloth for cleaning. Did you ensure your new layer was as thin as possible, but still provide full coverage over the die? Note too much TIM is in the way and counterproductive to the most efficient transfer of heat.

FTR, if my system's idle temps were ~80°C, I sure would NOT be subjecting my system to any stress test or demanding games - or any other tasks for that matter. I would be troubleshooting my excessive heat issues.
 

LyreX

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Sounds like the cooler isn't properly attached, can you post some clear photos of the cooler and system?
Those are not a high wattage, high heat CPU so they should be easy to keep cool with new paste every few years

They're supposed to be kept under 71c, what software did you use to get that reading?

I m using core temp. the cooler is right attached.

Which cooler (type/model) are you using? Had a case once that lid on CPU is bent (not flat) and it caused the same issue.
I m using Stock Athlon x2 250 fan.The cap on the CPU is fine. no problem

What are your room temperatures?

And what coolermaster are you using?
25-30C
I m using cooler master mastergel regular
 

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eidairaman1

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I m using core temp. the cooler is right attached.


I m using Stock Athlon x2 250 fan.The cap on the CPU is fine. no problem


25-30C
I m using cooler master mastergel regular
No wonder you have problems, Clean the heatsink and that case, it is filthy. Dust traps heat, can cause static discharge and also attract moisture to it.
 
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Too much paste most likely. I ran it pasteless and never seen such high temps. The layer must be thinner than your crushes stockings.
 

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And blowing warm air on a dusty computer just makes it hotter, not cooler, get an AC
 
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No wonder you have problems, Clean the heatsink and that case, it is filthy. Dust traps heat
Right!

How could you have replaced the TIM without noticing and cleaning out all that heat trapping dust? I don't get it. :confused: :confused:
 

LyreX

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Right!

How could you have replaced the TIM without noticing and cleaning out all that heat trapping dust? I don't get it. :confused: :confused:
I already cleaned the dust while applying thermal paste.
I haven't cleaned it for a month. That's why it's dusty
 

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Right!

How could you have replaced the TIM without noticing and cleaning out all that heat trapping dust? I don't get it. :confused: :confused:

I already cleaned the dust while applying thermal paste.
I haven't cleaned it for a month. That's why it's dusty
Remove the dust
 
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It really feels like 2000 in this topic... such a gem.
 
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I haven't cleaned it for a month. That's why it's dusty
That is just 1 month's worth of dust? Wow! That looks more like 6 months or even a year's worth to me. And I have seen a lot of computers in dusty environments before - including desert environments and in areas where heavy construction was constantly going on.

You should never even let it get to that point. :( Cleaning is a user requirement.

If that is true and that is 1 month's worth of dust, you need to conduct weekly inspections and clean as soon as you see dust starting to bridge the gaps in the heatsink and your PSU vents.

And you need to consider a different case - one that has removable, washable air filters. They won't eliminate the need for internal cleaning, but greatly reduce the frequency of such cleaning.
 

LyreX

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That is just 1 month's worth of dust? Wow! That looks more like 6 months or even a year's worth to me. And I have seen a lot of computers in dusty environments before - including desert environments and in areas where heavy construction was constantly going on.

You should never even let it get to that point. :( Cleaning is a user requirement.

If that is true and that is 1 month's worth of dust, you need to conduct weekly inspections and clean as soon as you see dust starting to bridge the gaps in the heatsink and your PSU vents.

And you need to consider a different case - one that has removable, washable air filters. They won't eliminate the need for internal cleaning, but greatly reduce the frequency of such cleaning.
Thanks for the advice.
 
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Okay... let's be serious about this one.... that CPU is a 95W unit. That heatsink cannot handle it no matter how clean it is mate, it is quad K10. Other mates have forgotten about what it really is. Invest in some cheap HYPER 212 iteration.

I was just cleaning my boxes... with some of the same oldie stuff.

1688490634347.png
 
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That heatsink cannot handle it no matter how clean it is mate
Sorry but that's not really true. Stress testing and serious games? That may be a problem. But regular office type tasks and certainly idle demands are not a problem ASSUMING the heat trapping dust is cleaned out, ambient (room) temps are "normal" and case cooling is adequate and working.

The OP is getting 80°C at idle. That's a problem.

I do agree however, that a decent 212, with a proper application of TIM, adequate airflow through the case, and normal ambients would be worth investing in.
 
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Sorry but that's not really true. Stress testing and serious games?

We are just forgetting that AMD was really late in terms of efficiency especially at idle. Have you had a K10? I had, but on socket F. I had Santa Rosa, Barcelona, Shanghai and Istanbul in the same motherboard.
 
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Too much paste most likely. I ran it pasteless and never seen such high temps. The layer must be thinner than your crushes stockings.

The bond line will be thin, regardless of the amount of paste used as long as there is pressure applied. The reasons to avoid using excess paste are to avoid waste and a mess.
 
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We are just forgetting that AMD was really late in terms of efficiency especially at idle.
We? No. You and your mouse buddy may be forgetting (or purposely ignoring) the facts, but I am not.

Contrary to what you, apparently, want others to believe, CPU makers have been providing "adequate" OEM coolers with their CPUs for many many years. It would make no sense for them not to since, when coolers are supplied with the CPUs, they are warranted with the CPU as "a unit". It would be very bad PR and word of mouth advertising if the OEM coolers were not at least adequate.

Are OEM coolers the best? Of course not. Never said, or implied they were. Do OEM coolers provide good cooling during stress tests? Of course not. Never said or implied they do. But of course, stress testing is not "normal" use. And when it comes to serious gaming - some of the most demanding tasks we can ask of our computers, well, that is where OEM coolers, at least the earlier models failed. But many, including myself, would not consider serious gaming "normal" computing. If someone is a "serious" gamer, they should be looking at alternative cooling solutions (and certainly excellent case cooling).

So ONCE AGAIN I point out the OP said his "idle" temps are hitting 70 - 80°C. Even if the AMD K10 runs warmer than average at idle, 80°C is well above that, clearly indicating something else is going on, and wrong here, well beyond that cooler alone.

The bond line will be thin, regardless of the amount of paste used as long as there is pressure applied. The reasons to avoid using excess paste are to avoid waste and a mess.
To some extent, this is true. Mounting mechanisms do apply a nice amount of pressure to (hopefully) evenly distribute the TIM. But they do NOT ensure every bit of excess TIM is squeezed out. So it is always best to apply as thin as possible while ensuring full coverage, and no more. It is MUCH MUCH easier to add a little more than to remove excess.
 

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We? No. You and your mouse buddy may be forgetting (or purposely ignoring) the facts, but I am not.

Contrary to what you, apparently, want others to believe, CPU makers have been providing "adequate" OEM coolers with their CPUs for many many years. It would make no sense for them not to since, when coolers are supplied with the CPUs, they are warranted with the CPU as "a unit". It would be very bad PR and word of mouth advertising if the OEM coolers were not at least adequate.

Are OEM coolers the best? Of course not. Never said, or implied they were. Do OEM coolers provide good cooling during stress tests? Of course not. Never said or implied they do. But of course, stress testing is not "normal" use. And when it comes to serious gaming - some of the most demanding tasks we can ask of our computers, well, that is where OEM coolers, at least the earlier models failed. But many, including myself, would not consider serious gaming "normal" computing. If someone is a "serious" gamer, they should be looking at alternative cooling solutions (and certainly excellent case cooling).

So ONCE AGAIN I point out the OP said his "idle" temps are hitting 70 - 80°C. Even if the AMD K10 runs warmer than average at idle, 80°C is well above that, clearly indicating something else is going on, and wrong here, well beyond that cooler alone.


To some extent, this is true. Mounting mechanisms do apply a nice amount of pressure to (hopefully) evenly distribute the TIM. But they do NOT ensure every bit of excess TIM is squeezed out. So it is always best to apply as thin as possible while ensuring full coverage, and no more. It is MUCH MUCH easier to add a little more than to remove excess.
The op's hsf depth doesnt look like the 1 that came with my Athlon XP, it looks like a sff/server hs but with a slower fan
 
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Rotate cooler 180 degrees and try it again. ;)
 
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The op's hsf depth doesnt look like the 1 that came with my Athlon XP
His comments suggested you are right. But still, as long as there is a good bond between the heatsink and processor, even if a lessor cooler, it should easily be able to adequately cool a CPU when at idle. 80°C is far from adequate. Therefore, something else is at play here.
 
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Video Card(s) ASUS GeForce RTX 4080 Super TUF Gaming OC 16GB
Storage Samsung 970 EVO Plus PCIe Gen3 NVMe M.2 SSD - 1TB
Display(s) MSI MAG 401QR UWQHD 155Hz Adaptive-Sync IPS 40in Monitor (2nd monitor is 27 msi)
Case Montech KING 95 Pro Mid Tower Case Black
Audio Device(s) Creative Sound Blaster X5 DAC and Headphone Amp
Power Supply SilverStone DA850-G - 850W Gold ATX Modular PSU
Mouse Razer Naga Left-Handed Edition Ergonomic MMO Gaming Mouse for Left-Handed
Keyboard ROCCAT ROC-12-671-RD-AM Vulcan 121 Aimo RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard
Software Microsoft Windows 11
Benchmark Scores nil
Definitely sounds like the cooler isn’t sitting flat on the CPU..check check double check.. and don’t over tighten stuff either..just saying.
 

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
42,984 (6.72/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
Definitely sounds like the cooler isn’t sitting flat on the CPU..check check double check.. and don’t over tighten stuff either..just saying.
It uses a lug clip
 
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