Copper Shims on Chipset

[mclaren85]

Only way to find out is to test it...

Which costs me more:/

 

[P4-630]

Which costs me more:/

No spare fans laying around?

I had also done testing few years ago, bought various fans and still have fans in boxes that I don't use at the moment.

 

[mclaren85]

No spare fans laying around?

I had also done testing few years ago, bought various fans and still have fans in boxes that I don't use at the moment.

Not really. But I have plan to change the front intakes with 140mm Noctua fans.

 

[P4-630]

I use 6 Be Quiet fans and 1 Scythe at the moment.

 

[InVasMani]

One last question. This is how my case looks from right side. Do you think adding two more lateral fans would help more cooling?
View attachment 304618

I'd use bottom as a intake and top I'd probably try both to get a idea for which works best. They have some angled fan adapters too that with those side fans if using as a intake fan you could direct towards the motherboard as well for more a blower fan. That or just get a blower fan and mount that instead which is probably cheaper if you want to use both for intake fans and w/o impeding the front fans with a cross airflow turbulence issue in the process.

 

[LabRat 891]

One last question. This is how my case looks from right side. Do you think adding two more lateral fans would help more cooling?
View attachment 304618

Assuming there's vents on the back side panel, setting up fans there as intake, would probably help.

I always built my towers 'negative pressure', but this last rebuild I went 'positive pressure'.
Having a fan intake cool air right by components, seems to help. (Whodda thunkit? )


PS: I'm quite enjoying this seemingly unending epic.
Reminds me of 'the old days' when enthusiasts would get enthusiastically dedicated to improving performance beyond what was engineered.

 

[mclaren85]

Assuming there's vents on the back side panel, setting up fans there as intake, would probably help.

I always built my towers 'negative pressure', but this last rebuild I went 'positive pressure'.
Having a fan intake cool air right by components, seems to help. (Whodda thunkit? )


PS: I'm quite enjoying this seemingly unending epic.
Reminds me of 'the old days' when enthusiasts would get enthusiastically dedicated to improving performance beyond what was engineered.

I may change the chipset fan with 80mm one. Cause it barely affects the temps even at highest rpm. Do you think it could fit?
Look how 40mm fan seems:

 

[LabRat 891]

I may change the chipset fan with 80mm one. Cause it barely affects the temps even at highest rpm. Do you think it could fit?
Look how 40mm fan seems:
View attachment 304713

Unfortunately, the heatsink has no real (exposed) fins; it's not really built to take advantage of a mounted-on fan. (Even aimed correctly)

An 80mm fan might be a bit thick and without any airspace, won't move much air. (Any axial fan is going to be suffocated butted up directly to a surface).

If your SATA I/O wasn't in the way, I'd suggests blowing 'across' the heatsink. That way the fan is freestanding in air, and blowing 'obliquely' across the most surface area.

 

[mclaren85]

Unfortunately, the heatsink has no real (exposed) fins; it's not really built to take advantage of a mounted-on fan. (Even aimed correctly)

An 80mm fan might be a bit thick and without any airspace, won't move much air. (Any axial fan is going to be suffocated butted up directly to a surface).

If your SATA I/O wasn't in the way, I'd suggests blowing 'across' the heatsink. That way the fan is freestanding in air, and blowing 'obliquely' across the most surface area.

Yes the fins are located on the back side. What a sick design!

 

[Count von Schwalbe]

@mclaren85 do you have a grinder? Cutting crosshatched cuts in the heat spreader will improve its ability to dissipate heat.

Assuming it is a solid block.

 

[mclaren85]

Front fans are somehow helpful when they're at full speed. But only when the magnetic dust filter has been removed.

No I don't have it. But seems like a good idea

@mclaren85 do you have a grinder? Cutting crosshatched cuts in the heat spreader will improve its ability to dissipate heat.

Assuming it is a solid block

The other idea which comes to mind is using peltier cooling.

 

[LabRat 891]

The other idea which comes to mind is using pettier cooling.

Something thin and copper like this, could be easily cut using a rotary tool (dremel) or even a hacksaw w/ some patience, then drilled and mounted to the board.

You're seeing the limits in the design of the chipset heatsink; it was not intended to see active ventilation, and it's 'bulk' is compensating for lack of surface-area and the material used.
TBQH, w/o changing the cooler, you'd be better-off using a 'centrifugal fan' like out of a laptop or single-slot GPU cooler. (and 'ducting' it through the fins. Cardboard, Tape, etc.)

If you meant 'Peltier', just don't. (At least not in this application. Get an old board/build to 'play' with Peltier devices (TECs), if you're that curious.)
Without regulation circuitry, you easily could get condensation and short something, or under-cool the TEC and burn it out, followed by an overheating/dead chipset.
Either way, there's a ton more bulk; which is already something trying to be avoided.

 

[mclaren85]

Something thin and copper like this, could be easily cut using a rotary tool (dremel) or even a hacksaw w/ some patience, then drilled and mounted to the board.

You're seeing the limits in the design of the chipset heatsink; it was not intended to see active ventilation, and it's 'bulk' is compensating for lack of surface-area and the material used.
TBQH, w/o changing the cooler, you'd be better-off using a 'centrifugal fan' like out of a laptop or single-slot GPU cooler.

If you meant 'Peltier', just don't. (At least not in this application. Get an old board/build to 'play' with Peltier devices (TECs), if you're that curious.)
Without regulation circuitry, you easily could get condensation and short something, or under-cool the TEC and burn it out, followed by an overheating/dead chipset.
Either way, there's a ton more bulk; which is already something trying to be avoided.

Yes sorry for the typo. Pelter is nothing that I saw before so it attracted my attention.
I didn't understand your idea properly, why would I need a copper on the back of the GPU?

 

[Count von Schwalbe]

Yes sorry for the typo. Pelter is nothing that I saw before so it attracted my attention.
I didn't understand your idea properly, why would I need a copper on the back of the GPU?

This is a photo of a product on the market, designed to help cool GPU backplates.

It was intended to show the modification I was suggesting (crosscuts) to your southbridge heatsink.

If you observe the pattern closely, you will see that it has much higher surface area than a solid block - which assists with heat dissipation, especially with airflow.

 

[LabRat 891]

Yes sorry for the typo. Pelter is nothing that I saw before so it attracted my attention.
I didn't understand your idea properly, why would I need a copper on the back of the GPU?

Was just showing the original/intended use of the copper heatsink-plate. (also, gives a 'relatable' size reference.)

The lack of exposed surface area, and aluminum material of the stock heatsink are the biggest hindrances to maximum-ly cooling the chipset.
You can either work within them (blowing air through the enclosed fins using a ducted fan)
or
You can replace the heatsink. (the 'GPU backplate' heatsink I referenced, would be available to you through alibaba/aliexpress.)

 

[Count von Schwalbe]

Sooo...

I went back and found this:

And this is the contact area of HS:

View attachment 303140

Is that a sticker enclosing/covering the "hole" in the heatsink? If you mounted your Noctua over that after removing the sticker, it might help.

Don't crosscut this thing. Unless you plan to flip it over and use the existing cuts.

 

[InVasMani]

now you're just getting mid-evil technology with the copper

 

[mclaren85]

I've found an old AMD fan which is slightly bigger than my noctua. Will try this and give feedback soon.

In case these methods won't work, I won't give up.. There is an innovative cooling solution called Air Jet.

Frore Systems

Frore Systems is the developer of breakthrough thermal technology for consumer devices. The company’s active cooling chips, AirJet® Mini and AirJet® Pro, are integrated into devices to remove heat silently, delivering 2X improvement in device processor performance.

www.froresystems.com

 

[mclaren85]

That old AMD fan has too much noise than anything and has no or little effect on cooling even at 6000 rpm.. So I decided to remove everything on chipset and decided to attach my little Noctua to the rear-end of my case in order to increase the flow from front-intake to exhaust.

Here are the pictures:

 

[InVasMani]

It would be more practical as a fan for VRM's.

 

[mclaren85]

It would be more practical as a fan for VRM's.

I think that too but VRMs are already cool.

 

[mclaren85]

So put a fan underneath the GPU to both cool down gpu and chipset. The fan is blowing the air to upper direction. I marked the air movement, and virtual chipset location.

 

[mclaren85]

That old AMD fan has too much noise than anything and has no or little effect on cooling even at 6000 rpm.. So I decided to remove everything on chipset and decided to attach my little Noctua to the rear-end of my case in order to increase the flow from front-intake to exhaust.

Here are the pictures:

View attachment 304982View attachment 304983View attachment 304984View attachment 304985

This type has absolutely no effect on anything so I decided to move back on the chipset but this time, attached carefully and rigidly

One thing I'm very sure is, this Noctua doing super job.

 

[mclaren85]

Do you think adding two lateral fans would help?

 

[mclaren85]

So I ordered kapton tape pictured below:

and the copper shim:

Amazon.com.tr

I hope that will definitely help..