Which Fan should I buy for replacement?

[mclaren85]

Hello, I have an MSI Velox 100P case which has bundled with 3 intake fans. However, since these fans dimensions are only 120 mm, yet the speeds are 1300 rpm at most, I've decided to replace them something better and bigger. Also, even MSI did some funny/random mods on the fans, I don't think they are engineered enough to give the airflow I need. Do you think I should buy Noctua NF-A14 or Bequiet BL083 ? Or do you have better ideas? the exhaust fan is Arctic bionix and it makes lots of noise at 1800 rpm.

Here is how my case looks like:

,

 

[Selaya]

why do you want more than 1,300 rpm case fans? you like jet engines?

 

[mclaren85]

why do you want more than 1,300 rpm case fans? you like jet engines?

Even at 1300 rpm, there's not enough air flow.

 

[Selaya]

are you thermal throttling?

 

[mclaren85]

are you thermal throttling?

Thanks to I remove the magnetic filter, no at the moment

 

[Bill_Bright]

Then maybe you need to look at your fan orientation rather than simply adding fans. You want slight "over" pressure. That is a little more coming in than going out. Too much over (positive) pressure and air becomes stagnant (and hot). Too little and the case sucks in lots of dust through every crack, crevice, and port, and fails to exhaust it out properly. Even (balanced) pressure is okay, but may result in excessive dust too often since cool air may be pulled in from everywhere and not just the [hopefully filtered] intake vents.

It looks like you have one (maybe two) exhaust fan extracting the heat and six (maybe seven) pushing air in. I think I have said this before - you seem to be your own worst enemy here.

I like the 3 to 2 ratio. 3 intake fans to 2 exhaust. The PSU fan "may" be included in that ratio, as long as it is not installed in an isolated chamber that has its own air flow.

 

[Selaya]

upgrading your cpu cooler will yield far better results.
(both thermally and acoustically.)

 

[GerKNG]

Arctic P12/P14.

 

[mclaren85]

Then maybe you need to look at your fan orientation rather than simply adding fans. You want slight "over" pressure. That is a little more coming in than going out. Too much over (positive) pressure and air becomes stagnant (and hot). Too little and the case sucks in lots of dust through every crack, crevice, and port, and fails to exhaust it out properly. Even (balanced) pressure is okay, but may result in excessive dust too often since cool air may be pulled in from everywhere and not just the [hopefully filtered] intake vents.

It looks like you have one (maybe two) exhaust fan extracting the heat and six (maybe seven) pushing air in. I think I have said this before - you seem to be your own worst enemy here.

I like the 3 to 2 ratio. 3 intake fans to 2 exhaust. The PSU fan "may" be included in that ratio, as long as it is not installed in an isolated chamber that has its own air flow.

What a great explanation, I really appreciated..
In my configuration there are 3 intake (front) and 2 exhaust (up and rear), as you have stated out the PSU has its own closed system. the other internal 3 fans are for gpu. It starts automatically whenever needs.

btw, little quick question: do you think these little bumps and strange lines on the fan fins could effect the airflow?

 

[claes]

What is your budget?

Also I’d move that top exhaust to the rear position. Right now it’s exhausting the front intake before it reaches the cpu

 

[mclaren85]

upgrading your cpu cooler will yield far better results.
(both thermally and acoustically.)

Stock cooler (made by Cooler Master) is runnig fine. Did you mean it blocks the flow?

 

[Chrispy_]

So the problem isn't the fans, the problem is your dumb MSI case which I've also had the misfortune of buying once before.

1. The GPU is mounted vertically and dumps HALF of its heat directly into the CPU cooler.
2. The fans at the top and rear of the case are heavily restricted (and running noisier than necessary) because of the dense metal grille pattern. Unless you're using dedicated static-pressure fans like Arctic P12s, you're losing something like 90% of the airflow to that terrible cheap stamped grille that's easily one of the worst I've seen in years. The only one that's comparably awful was the CoolerMaster Q500L

You should probably buy a better CPU cooler. The AMD Wraith Prism is fine for a free cooler. Better than fine, even - it's genuinely awesome for 65W CPUs and capable enough for 105W CPUs if a little noisy because of the single 92mm fan. Unfortunately it's easily overwhelmed by external factors, such as a dumb GPU orientation spewing heat straight into it's intake fan. IMO I would get a cheap 240mm AIO and top-mount it so that the CPU gets cooled by air as far away from the graphics card as possible. If that's out of your budget, a $20 120mm tower like the Thermalright Assassin King 120 SE is going to help.

If you have access to a Dremel cutter or 120mm hole cutter as a drill attachment, I'm fairly sure you'd see cooling improvements just by removing all the stamped grille that's blocking your exhaust fans. I'd also move the top fan closer to the back so you have more of a full front-to-rear airflow path. Essentially, if you're going to stick to 3 intakes and 2 exhausts, the two exhausts should be at the rear and at the top in the rearmost position.

 

[mclaren85]

So the problem isn't the fans, the problem is your dumb MSI case which I've also had the misfortune of buying once before.

1. The GPU is mounted vertically and dumps HALF of its heat directly into the CPU cooler.
2. The fans at the top and rear of the case are heavily restricted (and running noisier than necessary) because of the dense metal grille pattern.

You should probably buy a better CPU cooler. The AMD Wraith Prism is fine for a free cooler, but it's easily overwhelmed by external factors, such as a dumb GPU orientation spewing heat straight into it's intake fan. IMO I would get a cheap 240mm AIO and top-mount it so that the CPU gets cooled by air as far away from the graphics card as possible. If that's out of your budget, a $20 120mm tower like the Thermalright Assassin King 120 SE is going to help.

If you have access to a Dremel cutter or 120mm hole cutter as a drill attachment, I'm fairly sure you'd see cooling improvements just by removing all the stamped grille that's blocking your exhaust fans. I'd also move the top fan closer to the back so you have more of a full front-to-rear airflow path. Essentially, if you're going to stick to 3 intakes and 2 exhausts, the two exhausts should be at the rear and at the top in the rearmost position.

Yes exactly what you have said, the metal grille is blocking considerable amount of air.. I'm not complaining about CPU it generally runs between 50-60 degree celcius, but maybe I should buy an MSI water 120mm liquid cooler.

 

[Chrispy_]

Yes exactly what you have said, the metal grille is blocking considerable amount of air.. I'm not complaining about CPU it generally runs between 50-60 degree celcius, but maybe I should buy an MSI water 120mm liquid cooler.

Don't bother. If it's under 80C and quiet enough for you to tolerate, then there's no need to throw money at it.

Cut holes for the exhaust fans if you have the tools and don't mind how that looks.

Given that the Wraith Prism is doing fine, maybe transplant to a new case instead of buying a new liquid cooler? I know regional pricing isn't the same in Turkey as it is here, but there are some great cheap cases with good airflow - Corsair 4000D Airflow, NZXT H5 Flow, Phanteks Eclipse series, Lian-Li Lancool variants. I can find well-ventilated cases for £80 or less over here quite easily but most of them are $99 cases from 2021 or 2022 on sale at a discount.

Just a thought, before you go buying a new cooler, buying new fans, or hacking up your existing case....

 

[mclaren85]

Don't bother. If it's under 80C and quiet enough for you to tolerate, then there's no need to throw money at it.

Cut holes for the exhaust fans if you have the tools and don't mind how that looks.

Given that the Wraith Prism is doing fine, maybe transplant to a new case instead of buying a new liquid cooler? I know regional pricing isn't the same in Turkey as it is here, but there are some great cheap cases with good airflow - Corsair 4000D Airflow, NZXT H5 Flow, Phanteks Eclipse series, Lian-Li Lancool variants. I can find well-ventilated cases for £80 or less over here quite easily but most of them are $99 cases from 2021 or 2022 on sale at a discount.

Just a thought, before you go buying a new cooler, buying new fans, or hacking up your existing case....

Actually I've changed my case from Asus tuf gt301 to MSI in order to get better cooling.. it did have better cooling capabilities but not the best for sure

 

[redeye]

Even at 1300 rpm, there's not enough air flow.

phantek t30-120. 2000rpm (mode) plenty of air flow… not enough? switch to turbo mode 3000 rpm. noisy.
1200 in the 2000 mode … very quiet, so quiet you need to be very close, dangerously close (lol)

 

[Vya Domus]

Even at 1300 rpm, there's not enough air flow.

Any fan of the same size running at the same RPM will move roughly the same amount of air, it's not like there are some fans that can magically move more air.

I imagine there's a front panel going over the front ? It's probably too restrictive, better fans are not really going to do anything. You could use larger 140mm fans, it will move more air at the same RPM.

 

[claes]

Lol why would you say that why are you on a pc enthusiast forum if all products are the same I don’t understand

 

[AsRock]

Arctic P12/P14.

There kinda meh, got some and don't use any of them.

Maybe SilverStone FHP141 v2, they are 38mm thick too.

 

[joemama]

Actually I've changed my case from Asus tuf gt301 to MSI in order to get better cooling.. it did have better cooling capabilities but not the best for sure

Considering that your specs say that you are using the stock cooler, I would change the CPU cooler first instead of the case fans, if CPU temperature is the only problem.
Just get a higher end air cooler and all well be good.

 

[Bill_Bright]

btw, little quick question: do you think these little bumps and strange lines on the fan fins could effect the airflow?

I don't know about the strange lines but the bumps (dimples) are there to help the airflow. Think about a golf ball. The dimples improve distance.

See this MythBusters video.

Then this: Dimple Car Experiment - YouTube

 

[Regeneration]

Your case supports the following fan mounting:

Front: 3 x 120 mm / 3 x 140 mm
Top: 3 x 120 mm / 2 x 140 mm

Check how many fan headers you have on the motherboard and how many pins they use and order five 140mm fans.

If you don't have 5 available fan headers, you can use a splitter - like this one.

Control the fan speed and noise from the BIOS and set it to be silent in idle, and loud during heavy load.

Corsair and Thermaltake make good and affordable fans. RPM is not important, just CFM and dBA.

 

[80251]

Lol why would you say that why are you on a pc enthusiast forum if all products are the same I don’t understand
View attachment 307255

Not even a 10CFM difference between the least performing fan and the best. Would that even be noticeable?

 

[Shrek]

I don't know about the strange lines but the bumps (dimples) are there to help the airflow. Think about a golf ball. The dimples improve distance.

See this MythBusters video.

Then this: Dimple Car Experiment - YouTube

What If Fan Blades Had Dimples Like A Golf Ball? - YouTube

 

[Devon68]

Would rotate the gpu in the normal orientation if possible. Take a look at some fans in this video and see how they perform