Your lag issue is so severe a lot of these smaller issues seem barely worth testing - the problem is that it could be multiple small issues combining, or it could be something you overlooked or assumed was fine.
Because hardware revisions exist, links to the product aren't 100% complete without that information from their packaging or product themselves - big changes can happen between a 1.0 and a 1.1 device, corsair is the worst with this selling entirely different RAM under the same model name with revisions only visible once they're in your hands.
NZXT cam is not a software worth using for any sort of diagnosis, it's for controlling their hardware only. Same goes for any branded software like iCue, razer, LGhub, etc etc and all are best avoided. Some leave so much crap behind that even uninstalling them doesnt remove them entirely, only a format and clean OS install will.
ARGB controller has a 2 pin header going to the reset button on the case i assume? (It's possibly an issue if its wired to anything else)
Personally, this is my favourite way to control ARGB lighting.
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direct sata power, which is good - no amperage limits to worry about. Both fans and ARGB lighting can easily blow out connectors, some high RPM fans destroyed two ports on my corsair commander pro, that work fine on the motherboard.
I'm guessing this is the "to motherboard" option, which is perfectly fine like this
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You need to leave HWinfo running the entire time, and see the maximum values afterwards
'current' values are meaningless the second you alt tab or minimise the game since its no longer being rendered its not using any power, and the maximums aren't recorded if you open the program after it's already minimised.
Seeing the spread of minimum temps from a cold system to the maximum of a loaded system after ~30 minutes is how you can tell somethings heating up a ton - 30C at idle to 90C at load tells you a lot about that devices cooling.
Zentimings will show the RAM and it's currently active settings, while CPU-Z (on the SPD tab) can show what it should be running at.
My ram is actually DDR4 3600, but i made a custom 3800 XMP profile so it reads as that
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While this shows neither 3600 nor 3800 because i've overclocked it further than that profile, at 3866 (MCLK x2)
On zen3, all those three values *CLK should be identical. If they're not, it'll cause performance issues.
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Update the new boards BIOS to the latest, enable XMP and check in zentimings what the SoC voltage is. Default should be around 1.09v but it does vary. Your RAM is easy to run, but it's good for you to know what it's doing.
With the hardware/BIOS out of the way it's softwaret time
You got a new motherboard, so it's time for a new windows install. reusing them never goes well, long term.
In the past, where did you get your windows installer, using what install method?
Microsofts creation tool? Rufus and an ISO from ?
I use Uupdump and Rufus, so I get an ISO with all the updates already installed to save time, and rufus removes the TPM and secureboot requirements
When installing windows multiple times or to multiple machines, the preinstalled updates save a ton of download and install time.
This download link is for the exact version of windows 11 i'm on now
Select language for Windows 11, version 22H2 (22621.2070) amd64 - UUP dump
pick your language, untick the options you dont use to cut steps out of the installer
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These are the options i use, which include all updates but then cleanup and compact the file down to save space. Lets most versions fit on a 4GB USB drive, if needed.
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It downloads a small zip file, which you need to extract everything into a folder (Windows 'extract all' works fine) and run the windows.cmd file
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This will then download all the files and process them, it's fairly fast here but a PC with issues or a slower internet connection could take upto an hour - worse if you've got really bad internet i guess. Download sizes have varied over the years in the 3-5GB range, but since it prevents the updates being downloaded once the OS is up, it saves that time again later.
key options in Rufus are making sure the device is set for UEFI/GPT and not CSM/MBR
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When you first begin the process it has tickboxes unique to windows 11
Be sure about what you want with the final two, as i've known people like my brother to make the USB and then immediately get annoyed when using it on someone elses PC and having to change the account name. The first 3 are perfectly safe for everyone to use.
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You can install windows and tick 'i dont have a key' and sort that out later, if you need help there. TPU has a policy against piracy being discussed on the forum, but i'd rather help on that topic in a PM than let you get malware from infected windows ISO's off piratebay.
Once you have your clean OS, don't install
any crapware.
Until you're sure the problems are sorted, only install:
Nvidia driver from TPU or Nvidias website. Geforce experience is fine, but tell it to not auto-optimise games
AMD chipset driver from TPU or AMD's website
HWinfo
Game launchers (steam, battle.net etc) since they're part of the testing
Games should install these, but I always
manually install the latest directX and
TPU's big VCredist collection. Those two solve 99% of "missing .dll" errors with games and programs.
Do not install anything like the NZXT software, or anything that goes with peripherals at this point. Let windows update get any and all drivers for now other than GPU and chipset.
With the BIOS sorted and the software sorted, you need to run R23 for that 30 minute period with HWinfo open on the sensors page and fullscreen screenshot the results before it finishes
Then let the PC cool down for 15 minutes, reset HWinfos stats (the clock button) and do the same with CS:GO, the maximum values will be useful there in contrast to the cooled down settings
I'm expecting that GPU to still have a high hotspot temperature, but theres high odds you had some software screwing things up - and something seems weird since your case fan controller made stutter worse. That should be physically impossible unless some trashy software like NZXT cam was lagging out giving the sensor readings for those fans
It's not impossible that your fans are set up strangely and that speeding them up caused something to overheat however, so pictures of the PC setup as a whole would be helpful - the ones in the OP are basically from the same angle and dont show the case fans or the motherboard and its various connectors, and since you've changed boards it's outdated anyway
