PC restarts under heavy load after replacing PSU

[ynneB]

My build is as follows (Built it in 2016, running like a champ up until now):
Intel Core i5-6600k
Phanteks PH-TC12DX CPU Cooler
ASUS Z170-A Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance LPX 2133MHz DDR4 Memory
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM Hard Drive
Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti XTREME Gaming 6GB
Old: XFX Core 650W 80+ Bronze Power Supply
Replacement: SeaSonic Prime GOLD 750W 80+ Gold Power Supply

Since the start of November, my old PSU (XFX Core 650W) started giving black screens when gaming for more than an hour (PC still runs, can hear in-game audio for a brief moment and I cannot do anything else than shut off PC via switch).

So I decided to replace it with the current SeaSonic PSU (Bought brand new in 2019 from Amazon India in case I had issues in the future).

After installing the new PSU, less than 2 days in I come across an entirely different problem; when playing intensive games (Battlefield V, Forza Horizon 5) my PC just restarts (Can hear audible click of the PSU when it shuts off and starts up).

Temps are ok on both games, no where near TJ max afaik (74c on CPU and 78c on GPU)

PSU voltage rails are optimal (5.040 on 5v, 3.312v on 3.3v and 12.096v on 12v) according to HWMonitor

I can reproduce this problem 50/50. I was playing Battlefield V and in less than an hour PC restarts. After this I stress test via OCCT and PC restarted in less than 3 minutes. (81c on CPU and 83c on GPU). Although the next day I stress test on cold boot and there was no restarts even after 1 hour.

There's nothing on event log aside from "The System has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed or lost power unexpectedly."

There's no sort of artifacting or performance degradation so I suppose you can rule out GPU.

Note that this never seems to happen even once when my PC isn't under heavy load. I could watch YouTube the whole day, edit videos or play a lighter game (Warframe for hours on end) and PC doesn't even break a sweat. (58c on CPU and 65c on GPU.)

For those who own similar PSU; yes I have disabled hybrid mode (fanless at light load) and it did not change anything.

I've just updated my BIOS and am seeing if I am still getting this issue. If this goes nowhere, do you think I have to replace the PSU again-again? According to cultists tier list the PSU is A-tier but I might just be unlucky and got a defective one, who knows...

I've tried many things:
Reset BIOS settings (This includes my CPU and RAM oc etc etc.)
Reinstall Windows
Reinstall GPU Drivers via DDU
Swap DIMM slots
Check if all cables are connected to PSU properly and vice versa
Clean out PC of any dust

Thanks for your time

 

[evernessince]

Try running MemTest86 and see if that comes up with any errors. This will eliminate RAM as an issue if passed.
Try running a CPU intensive stress test (prime95, y-cruncher) and GPU intensive test separately. This allows you to identify if the issue is potentially down to the CPU or GPU.
Use HWInfo to check CPU, GPU, Motherboard VRM temps during load to ensure they are in a safe range.
It's unlikely to be the cause of your issue but check the SMART info of your HDD.

Also check to ensure the circuit your PC is on isn't overloaded. Trying a different outlet on a different circuit might help. I'm not sure about the power delivery where you live but it could also be a problem with the input voltage into the PSU. Only way to find out would be using a multi-meter probing the wall socket.

The prime series is indeed a top tier PSU and that you are getting issues despite switching PSUs seems to indicate that the issue lies elsewhere. To have two bad PSUs in such a short period of time is possible but not probable.

 

[Bobaganoosh]

Battlefield V is a great stress test in between rounds. At that point you've already played a round, putting some heat into your case, then while loading the next map, your GPU is still rendering menus and character stuff while the CPU pegs to 100%.

The audible click definitely sounds like the PSU is trying to protect itself from an overload. I have seen some CPUs of that gen get really grumpy (causing lock-ups and reboots) over ~67C, but that was usually when overclocked to that basically unstable condition where they're mainly only stable at low temps.

What's the airflow like in your case? Does this issue happen if you leave the side panel off? I'm curious if you're just putting so much heat into the case and if your PSU is pulling from inside the chassis it may struggle with full load and no fresh air.

 

[evernessince]

Battlefield V is a great stress test in between rounds. At that point you've already played a round, putting some heat into your case, then while loading the next map, your GPU is still rendering menus and character stuff while the CPU pegs to 100%.

The audible click definitely sounds like the PSU is trying to protect itself from an overload. I have seen some CPUs of that gen get really grumpy (causing lock-ups and reboots) over ~67C, but that was usually when overclocked to that basically unstable condition where they're mainly only stable at low temps.

What's the airflow like in your case? Does this issue happen if you leave the side panel off? I'm curious if you're just putting so much heat into the case and if your PSU is pulling from inside the chassis it may struggle with full load and no fresh air.

The prime series makes a click noise when they turn on / off so that part of the OP's comment should be normal behavior. I have two Prime Titanium 850w PSUs that do the same thing, the one in operation since 2016.

 

[unwind-protect]

I am not convinced that a bad PSU was your original problem.

 

[AleXXX666]

Try running MemTest86 and see if that comes up with any errors. This will eliminate RAM as an issue if passed.
Try running a CPU intensive stress test (prime95, y-cruncher) and GPU intensive test separately. This allows you to identify if the issue is potentially down to the CPU or GPU.
Use HWInfo to check CPU, GPU, Motherboard VRM temps during load to ensure they are in a safe range.
It's unlikely to be the cause of your issue but check the SMART info of your HDD.

Also check to ensure the circuit your PC is on isn't overloaded. Trying a different outlet on a different circuit might help. I'm not sure about the power delivery where you live but it could also be a problem with the input voltage into the PSU. Only way to find out would be using a multi-meter probing the wall socket.

The prime series is indeed a top tier PSU and that you are getting issues despite switching PSUs seems to indicate that the issue lies elsewhere. To have two bad PSUs in such a short period of time is possible but not probable.

lmfao top tier psu i have had same psu and must be 2019 too, guess what? it came with crackling fan right after purchase lol
i heard some noise checked all fans and shut them down with hands and then heard crackling coming from psu oh my f never have had same issue with never FOCUS sonics LOL

The prime series makes a click noise when they turn on / off so that part of the OP's comment should be normal behavior. I have two Prime Titanium 850w PSUs that do the same thing, the one in operation since 2016.

focus the same.

 

[ynneB]

Try running MemTest86 and see if that comes up with any errors. This will eliminate RAM as an issue if passed.
Try running a CPU intensive stress test (prime95, y-cruncher) and GPU intensive test separately. This allows you to identify if the issue is potentially down to the CPU or GPU.
Use HWInfo to check CPU, GPU, Motherboard VRM temps during load to ensure they are in a safe range.
It's unlikely to be the cause of your issue but check the SMART info of your HDD.

Also check to ensure the circuit your PC is on isn't overloaded. Trying a different outlet on a different circuit might help. I'm not sure about the power delivery where you live but it could also be a problem with the input voltage into the PSU. Only way to find out would be using a multi-meter probing the wall socket.

The prime series is indeed a top tier PSU and that you are getting issues despite switching PSUs seems to indicate that the issue lies elsewhere. To have two bad PSUs in such a short period of time is possible but not probable.

Hello , I have run memtest86 and it seens my RAM is OK

I shall run Prime95 and Furmark tomorrow as it is late in my area, though I must ask; how long should i keep each benchmark running separately for the best result in your humble opinion?

Regarding the circuits area, I am sorry, I am not entirely familiar with that. All I know is that my PC is connected to this UPS (https://www.apc.com/shop/hr/en/prod...ll-Mount-230V-6x-IEC-C13-outlets-AVR/P-BV650I).

Come to think of it, is it possible that the cause of the restarts are due to the UPS overloading? The seasonic psu is 750w, the UPS is advertised to handle 375w and I've noticed my PC pulls a lot more power than that from OCCT (Definitely higher than 375w with CPU overclocked to 4.4GHz). I'll have to check tomorrow as it is late in my area. The UPS also powers two of my monitors and a surge protector that has three USB chargers and a router connected to it.

I've also noticed that my UPS endlessly beeps as soon as I connect PC with new Seasonic PSU installed to it. As far as i can remember i did nit experience the same with the XFX PSU. I bought the UPS sometime in 2022.
Thank you

Edit: Forgot to attach pictures of memtest86 result, I am new to this site so I am sorry about that. Excuse me, English is not entirely my first language too

Battlefield V is a great stress test in between rounds. At that point you've already played a round, putting some heat into your case, then while loading the next map, your GPU is still rendering menus and character stuff while the CPU pegs to 100%.

The audible click definitely sounds like the PSU is trying to protect itself from an overload. I have seen some CPUs of that gen get really grumpy (causing lock-ups and reboots) over ~67C, but that was usually when overclocked to that basically unstable condition where they're mainly only stable at low temps.

What's the airflow like in your case? Does this issue happen if you leave the side panel off? I'm curious if you're just putting so much heat into the case and if your PSU is pulling from inside the chassis it may struggle with full load and no fresh air.

Hello, my case is the NZXT S340 so there's two front intakes, one top and rear exhaust so airflow is optimal especially considering my temps I suppose. I have never used the PC with side panel off but might as well do so while individually stress testing components tomorrow.

Thank you

 

[Bobaganoosh]

The prime series makes a click noise when they turn on / off so that part of the OP's comment should be normal behavior. I have two Prime Titanium 850w PSUs that do the same thing, the one in operation since 2016.

Yeah, but OP's clicks and shuts off while using it, so I was referring to that. The computer didn't just reboot, the power supply clicked, shut off, then clicked back on and the system came back. I just think it helps limit the possible problems if we know that whatever it is actually forces the power supply to shut off fully (on its own), then turn back on. I wasn't indicating that the clicking in itself is a problem.

Regarding the circuits area, I am sorry, I am not entirely familiar with that. All I know is that my PC is connected to this UPS (https://www.apc.com/shop/hr/en/prod...ll-Mount-230V-6x-IEC-C13-outlets-AVR/P-BV650I).

Come to think of it, is it possible that the cause of the restarts are due to the UPS overloading? The seasonic psu is 750w, the UPS is advertised to handle 375w and I've noticed my PC pulls a lot more power than that from OCCT (Definitely higher than 375w with CPU overclocked to 4.4GHz). I'll have to check tomorrow as it is late in my area. The UPS also powers two of my monitors and a surge protector that has three USB chargers and a router connected to it.

I've also noticed that my UPS endlessly beeps as soon as I connect PC with new power supply to it. (Didn't think much of it at the time but I think things are adding up now)...


Hello, my case is the NZXT S340 so there's two front intakes, one top and rear exhaust so airflow is optimal especially considering my temps I suppose. I have never used the PC with side panel off but might as well do so while individually stress testing components tomorrow.

Thank you

Yes, that could very well be the problem. You're exceeding the limits of the UPS. If it shuts off the output (to protect itself), the power supply will also go down...so yes, I would try to plug the PC directly into your AC mains and runt he OCCT again to see if it still reboots. The UPS is supposed to give a continuous tone alarm when that happens, according to the manual. The continuous beeps, 1/2 second apart, are supposed to indicate over-temperature. If it does

 

[evernessince]

Hello , I have run memtest86 and it seens my RAM is OK

I shall run Prime95 and Furmark tomorrow as it is late in my area, though I must ask; how long should i keep each benchmark running separately for the best result in your humble opinion?

3 hours is typically enough to bring forth most issues. It depends a bit on how frequently your issue appears, if the issue is less frequent you might want to go up to 8 hours.

Regarding the circuits area, I am sorry, I am not entirely familiar with that. All I know is that my PC is connected to this UPS (https://www.apc.com/shop/hr/en/prod...ll-Mount-230V-6x-IEC-C13-outlets-AVR/P-BV650I).

Come to think of it, is it possible that the cause of the restarts are due to the UPS overloading? The seasonic psu is 750w, the UPS is advertised to handle 375w and I've noticed my PC pulls a lot more power than that from OCCT (Definitely higher than 375w with CPU overclocked to 4.4GHz). I'll have to check tomorrow as it is late in my area. The UPS also powers two of my monitors and a surge protector that has three USB chargers and a router connected to it.

It's a definite possibility. I would recommend trying it without the UPS to see if that has any impact.

 

[ynneB]

Yeah, but OP's clicks and shuts off while using it, so I was referring to that. The computer didn't just reboot, the power supply clicked, shut off, then clicked back on and the system came back. I just think it helps limit the possible problems if we know that whatever it is actually forces the power supply to shut off fully (on its own), then turn back on. I wasn't indicating that the clicking in itself is a problem.


Yes, that could very well be the problem. You're exceeding the limits of the UPS. If it shuts off the output (to protect itself), the power supply will also go down...so yes, I would try to plug the PC directly into your AC mains and runt he OCCT again to see if it still reboots. The UPS is supposed to give a continuous tone alarm when that happens, according to the manual. The continuous beeps, 1/2 second apart, are supposed to indicate over-temperature. If it does

3 hours is typically enough to bring forth most issues. It depends a bit on how frequently your issue appears, if the issue is less frequent you might want to go up to 8 hours.



It's a definite possibility. I would recommend trying it without the UPS to see if that has any impact.

Hello and good afternoon
I have attached screenshots of SMART attributes for my HDD and it seems normal .

I am now testing PC with Prime95, and later Furmark whilst connected to mains. Same thing with OCCT and see if it restarts and I will report back eventually

Also, I could share how long it takes for this issue to pop up. On CPU turbo frequency at bios default (3.9GHz) and XMP Disabled (2133MHz), it would take as long as 6 days for the restart to happen when using PC at heavy load. (CPU hovers at 68c and GPU at 73c worst case). Meanwhile, with CPU OC'd to 4.4GHz @ 1.28v and XMP Enabled at 2700MHz, it would restart in less than a day (CPU 76c and GPU 78c). Both while playing Battlefield V as I've mentioned.

I have not tried reproducing this at stock clock (3.5GHz) but I assume it'd take longer though I can happily test this if I can.

Weird thing is, contrary to what the manual says, it NEVER beeps when the PC is at high load or when it restarts. It only happens when I flip the power switch on the PSU when it is connected to the UPS. This never happened with the old PSU. When I plug the PC into UPS while its off and switch on the UPS afterwards, it does not make the sound. Very confusing.

I am not convinced that a bad PSU was your original problem.

Hello, what do you think the issue may be? I will try to troubleshoot this as much as i can.

Thank you all kindly.

 

[maxfly]

Do you have a GPU you can borrow to test your rig with? Or can you test your GPU in a friends system?

 

[ynneB]

Do you have a GPU you can borrow to test your rig with? Or can you test your GPU in a friends system?

No sadly, all the friends I know play on console or laptop, but ill try asking around

 

[Deeveo]

Weird thing is, contrary to what the manual says, it NEVER beeps when the PC is at high load or when it restarts. It only happens when I flip the power switch on the PSU when it is connected to the UPS. This never happened with the old PSU. When I plug the PC into UPS while its off and switch on the UPS afterwards, it does not make the sound. Very confusing.

Does the UPS let power through when off? Sounds like high inrush current.

"Inrush current or switch-on surge refers to the maximum, instantaneous input-current drawn by an electrical device when it is first turned on. Because of the charging current of the APFC capacitor(s), PSUs produce large inrush-current right as they are turned on. Large inrush current can cause the tripping of circuit breakers and fuses and may also damage switches, relays, and bridge rectifiers; as a result, the lower the inrush current of a PSU right as it is turned on, the better."

 

[joemama]

On CPU turbo frequency at bios default (3.9GHz) and XMP Disabled (2133MHz), it would take as long as 6 days for the restart to happen when using PC at heavy load. (CPU hovers at 68c and GPU at 73c worst case). Meanwhile, with CPU OC'd to 4.4GHz @ 1.28v and XMP Enabled at 2700MHz, it would restart in less than a day (CPU 76c and GPU 78c). Both while playing Battlefield V as I've mentioned.

This doesn't make sense for a PSU issue but rather a instable overclock to me. Maybe test with stock frequencies but overclock voltages to see if power draw is the issue.

 

[ynneB]

Does the UPS let power through when off? Sounds like high inrush current.

"Inrush current or switch-on surge refers to the maximum, instantaneous input-current drawn by an electrical device when it is first turned on. Because of the charging current of the APFC capacitor(s), PSUs produce large inrush-current right as they are turned on. Large inrush current can cause the tripping of circuit breakers and fuses and may also damage switches, relays, and bridge rectifiers; as a result, the lower the inrush current of a PSU right as it is turned on, the better."

Sorry, I don't know what you mean by this exactly but every device (including PC) works despite the beeping, same when PC restarts under load. Router gives internet WiFi just fine and phones and other accessories continue charging regardless

This doesn't make sense for a PSU issue but rather a instable overclock to me. Maybe test with stock frequencies but overclock voltages to see if power draw is the issue.

Hello , sure I will try to run Intel turbo frequency with oc voltage and see if it persists after I am done with the stress tests. but it is weird how PC worked with same custom 4.4ghz and 1.28v oc perfectly for almost 3-4 years with no issues using old PSU up until last month

Thank you all

 

[Deeveo]

Sorry, I don't know what you mean by this exactly but every device (including PC) works despite the beeping, same when PC restarts under load. Router gives internet WiFi just fine and phones and other accessories continue charging regardless

High inrush current means the PSU draws a lot of power when you turn it on from it's power switch. This might cause the UPS to beep.

 

[ynneB]

Try running MemTest86 and see if that comes up with any errors. This will eliminate RAM as an issue if passed.
Try running a CPU intensive stress test (prime95, y-cruncher) and GPU intensive test separately. This allows you to identify if the issue is potentially down to the CPU or GPU.
Use HWInfo to check CPU, GPU, Motherboard VRM temps during load to ensure they are in a safe range.
It's unlikely to be the cause of your issue but check the SMART info of your HDD.

Also check to ensure the circuit your PC is on isn't overloaded. Trying a different outlet on a different circuit might help. I'm not sure about the power delivery where you live but it could also be a problem with the input voltage into the PSU. Only way to find out would be using a multi-meter probing the wall socket.

The prime series is indeed a top tier PSU and that you are getting issues despite switching PSUs seems to indicate that the issue lies elsewhere. To have two bad PSUs in such a short period of time is possible but not probable.

Hello, all this is run while connected directly to mains with full bios reset (stock oc and everything); I have run Prime95 for 3 hours with no restarts (I have attached this, temp also listed), ran Furmark for 1 hour and stopped as my temps hovered around 83-84c (A little higher than in-game considering it's a GPU stress test) with no restarts whatsoever.

I've also run OCCT on stock clocks for 1 hour and total wattage in CPU and GPU reaches 357w (83w on CPU and 273.54 on GPU). No restarts whatsoever. I haven't tested with my OC'd config (4.4GHz 1.28v with 2700MHz RAM oc from 2133) but I am sure it would exceed the 375w limit the UPS has. Could 3 USB chargers and a router pull the remainder of the 18w and make the UPS overload?

Do I test again with oc config? i've said before i encounter the restarts even while gaming at stock oc settings but it takes sometime about 6 days as opposed to with oc settings where it takes less than a day at most.

Thank you all for continued assistance

3 hours is typically enough to bring forth most issues. It depends a bit on how frequently your issue appears, if the issue is less frequent you might want to go up to 8 hours.



It's a definite possibility. I would recommend trying it without the UPS to see if that has any impact.

Yeah, but OP's clicks and shuts off while using it, so I was referring to that. The computer didn't just reboot, the power supply clicked, shut off, then clicked back on and the system came back. I just think it helps limit the possible problems if we know that whatever it is actually forces the power supply to shut off fully (on its own), then turn back on. I wasn't indicating that the clicking in itself is a problem.


Yes, that could very well be the problem. You're exceeding the limits of the UPS. If it shuts off the output (to protect itself), the power supply will also go down...so yes, I would try to plug the PC directly into your AC mains and runt he OCCT again to see if it still reboots. The UPS is supposed to give a continuous tone alarm when that happens, according to the manual. The continuous beeps, 1/2 second apart, are supposed to indicate over-temperature. If it does

I apologize as I have made a grave mistake on my part; the UPS I use is actually this model "APC Back-UPS 1000VA/600W UPS". https://www.apc.com/id/en/product/BV1000I-MS/apc-easy-ups-bv-1000va-avr-universal-o/

To my knowledge there's much wattage headroom (especially with stock clocks) I will check wattage on OCCT with oc'd config soon if that's necessary. Do you think 2 monitors, a surge protector connecting 3 usb chargers and a router overload a 600w ups?

Anyway, I have read the manual for the UPS and the reason why the UPS gives continuous tone alarm connected is because of "On Line Overload - The power being used by the connected equipment has exceeded the capacity of the unit." This is the exact sound I hear when I plugged new PSU into UPS. Should I try with only the PSU connected to the UPS to see if the continuous tone alarm goes away (It's a constant beep btw, it doesn't stop every second or so) and play some games that way to see if the restarts persist?

UPDATE: Good evening all, hope you are doing good

I have tried plugging just the PC power cable into UPS and it gives me a continuous beep alongside a blinking power LED.

According to the manual it means "Bad Battery Detected - The Battery needs to be charged or its at end of life".

I disconnected PC power cable and checked if the same beeps occur with 2 monitors, 3 USB chargers and router connected to surge protector plugged in to the UPS and it did not make that sound at all!

So knock on wood i assume the 600w UPS cannot handle the PC with new 750w PSU.

I have plugged the PC back on mains and will see if the restarts persist while playing some games. Will regularly get back to you guys as soon as I get any more updates.

Thank you

 

[Bobaganoosh]

Good info! So, that UPS is much better and would likely not be over-drawn by your system under normal conditions. The "bad battery" may be partially to blame though. I haven't used a UPS at home, but we have some at work that will just beep continuously and then shut off the output after a while when the battery fails. So it's possible that the battery in your UPS has been failing, which has been causing your issues. If you can run all your games and testing on mains power, that definitely points to the UPS.

Also, as for inrush current, it may very well exceed the limits of the UPS, so that could be another issue (smaller, but also annoying due to the beeping). The inrush is a short event, but I'm not sure how long the UPS would give an alarm from that event. I don't think you'd be exceeding the 600W under any normal conditions with your computer, but the inrush may exceed it briefly. Just for reference, the inrush happens when power is first applied and all the filter-capacitors are charged up (think of them sort of like fast acting batteries). It takes a huge spike of current to charge those capacitors, which then hold your DC power stable through any dips or fluctuations later. It's a normal and unavoidable situation, but I suspect that there's more filter capacitance on your new supply than there was on the old one and this gives you a higher spike. Between the higher spike and likely degradation of your UPS battery (which are usually replaceable, by the way), this is likely the two problems you're dealing with (1. higher spike causes the beeping, 2. battery dying may cause the UPS output to fail under load).

 

[Ownedtbh]

Try another gpu cooler

 

[evernessince]

I have plugged the PC back on mains and will see if the restarts persist while playing some games. Will regularly get back to you guys as soon as I get any more updates.

Thank you

I think this is the best immediate course of action you can take. Let us know how it goes!

 

[maxfly]

How long has it been since you've replaced the battery in your UPS? How old is your UPS if you haven't replaced the battery?

It definitely sounds like it's time for a new battery.

 

[nomdeplume]

How long has it been since you've replaced the battery in your UPS? How old is your UPS if you haven't replaced the battery?

It definitely sounds like it's time for a new battery.

Sure, but if UPS is old and underrated for modern power needs. Which it sounds like is the case here.

Not all hardware plays nicely with all UPS either.

 

[ynneB]

Good info! So, that UPS is much better and would likely not be over-drawn by your system under normal conditions. The "bad battery" may be partially to blame though. I haven't used a UPS at home, but we have some at work that will just beep continuously and then shut off the output after a while when the battery fails. So it's possible that the battery in your UPS has been failing, which has been causing your issues. If you can run all your games and testing on mains power, that definitely points to the UPS.

Also, as for inrush current, it may very well exceed the limits of the UPS, so that could be another issue (smaller, but also annoying due to the beeping). The inrush is a short event, but I'm not sure how long the UPS would give an alarm from that event. I don't think you'd be exceeding the 600W under any normal conditions with your computer, but the inrush may exceed it briefly. Just for reference, the inrush happens when power is first applied and all the filter-capacitors are charged up (think of them sort of like fast acting batteries). It takes a huge spike of current to charge those capacitors, which then hold your DC power stable through any dips or fluctuations later. It's a normal and unavoidable situation, but I suspect that there's more filter capacitance on your new supply than there was on the old one and this gives you a higher spike. Between the higher spike and likely degradation of your UPS battery (which are usually replaceable, by the way), this is likely the two problems you're dealing with (1. higher spike causes the beeping, 2. battery dying may cause the UPS output to fail under load).

I think this is the best immediate course of action you can take. Let us know how it goes!

Hello! Thank you very much for clarifying about inrush especially for someone who isn't very familiar with this.

Was just playing a mix of Battlefield V and Forza Horizon 5 for 5 hours, no restarts so far but I guess it is soon to say as this tends to happen the 2nd day I use the PC for such means.

As you have mentioned earlier for me to check VRM temps while gaming, I have attached general temps I get on my PC when I play both games. Does motherboard temps signify temps for VRMs? If not i'd be happy to try out whatever program you suggest so I can monitor them as time goes.

How long has it been since you've replaced the battery in your UPS? How old is your UPS if you haven't replaced the battery?

It definitely sounds like it's time for a new battery.

Hi, I have never replaced battery for this UPS and I bought it back in May 2022. So it is more than 1 year old.

Try another gpu cooler

Hello, what do you mean by this exactly?

Again, thank you all for your time.

 

[evernessince]

Hello! Thank you very much for clarifying about inrush especially for someone who isn't very familiar with this.

Was just playing a mix of Battlefield V and Forza Horizon 5 for 5 hours, no restarts so far but I guess it is soon to say as this tends to happen the 2nd day I use the PC for such means.

As you have mentioned earlier for me to check VRM temps while gaming, I have attached general temps I get on my PC when I play both games. Does motherboard temps signify temps for VRMs? If not i'd be happy to try out whatever program you suggest so I can monitor them as time goes.

Typically VRM is it's own separate reading. It's hard to tell whether a generic motherboard temperature is from the VRM or not. That said given all the temperature readings thus far it doesn't appear that high temps are the issue.

 

[maxfly]

Sure, but if UPS is old and underrated for modern power needs. Which it sounds like is the case here.

Not all hardware plays nicely with all UPS either.

If bought new in 2022, the APC Back-UPS 1000VA/600W UPS, would be plenty if its being plugged directly into an outlet, rather than through a power strip (unless it's faulty of course). The new PSU shouldn't cause it to go into safety/security mode. Something is borked, particularly if the rig is functional without the UPS.