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Arctic Liquid Freezer III 240 Black

best 42 bucks I ever spent. rock on mate!
I spent 75 CAD on a 360 AIO from them, took the rainbow fans off and put my own on, and honestly.. this thing kicks ass. Really happy with it.
 
I spent 75 CAD on a 360 AIO from them, took the rainbow fans off and put my own on, and honestly.. this thing kicks ass. Really happy with it.

my 5600x3d doesn't even break 60 celsius in the most demanding of games, water just seems pointless to me at this point. lol

however... if my 8800x3d or 9900x3d hits like 82 celsius or higher in those same games... I may consider water, i'd really like to never be higher than 75 celsius in-game - because hot summers and air condition is already working hard in July and August
 
All this liquid and it still only beats be quite dark rock elite by a few %. Why is it worth the hassle of going liquid and why don't these liquid coolers decimate air coolers?
Put the rad to the top of the case and you can get rid of the CPU's heat pretty damn easily.
 
The fact that they force you to use their contact frame in order to mount the cooler for an Intel CPU is an automatic no buy for me. I already have the Thermalright contact frame and I'm not swapping it out just to install this.
 
All this liquid and it still only beats be quite dark rock elite by a few %. Why is it worth the hassle of going liquid and why don't these liquid coolers decimate air coolers?

Personally,

- for a few bob more, i'd fancy a small performance advantage over an air cooler or a marginally wider one with a 360/420

- Can't help it, i'm tied into the RGB circus but minimally ignited. AIOs dont overshadow the dimm slots hence RGB memory kits remain fully visible / no memory clearance headaches for taller sticks.

- as Chloefile added "Put the rad to the top of the case and you can get rid of the CPU's heat pretty damn easily"

-
Unfortunately back to the aesthetics... gotto admit, some of these AIOs are appealing to the eyes. Can't say the same for ALF-2 but this ALF-3's got some of that premium looking swag. Speaking of "aesthetics" when it comes to air coolers i prefer a more industrial look with more bare-bone metal sticking out, not really feeling it with the dark rock elite

- A marginal/negligible bump in perf; rads can be set to a push-pull configuration. Had this done on my NZXT KRAKEN X62 with 4 arctic P14s... about 2-3c difference in temps whilst gaming (i know, no biggie) with a nicely reduced fan curve for almost-whisper-quiet performance.

- is it just me or do those AIO sleeved tubes add some busy highway character to the build?

I know nothing of significant value for an absolute requirement + the CONS: less durable, permeation, more moving parts (pump), second noise emitter (pump), etc... sucks... but it sucks more without it :P So far my X62 from 2017 is still running great.
 
Personally,

- for a few bob more, i'd fancy a small performance advantage over an air cooler or a marginally wider one with a 360/420

- Can't help it, i'm tied into the RGB circus but minimally ignited. AIOs dont overshadow the dimm slots hence RGB memory kits remain fully visible / no memory clearance headaches for taller sticks.

- as Chloefile added "Put the rad to the top of the case and you can get rid of the CPU's heat pretty damn easily"

-
Unfortunately back to the aesthetics... gotto admit, some of these AIOs are appealing to the eyes. Can't say the same for ALF-2 but this ALF-3's got some of that premium looking swag. Speaking of "aesthetics" when it comes to air coolers i prefer a more industrial look with more bare-bone metal sticking out, not really feeling it with the dark rock elite

- A marginal/negligible bump in perf; rads can be set to a push-pull configuration. Had this done on my NZXT KRAKEN X62 with 4 arctic P14s... about 2-3c difference in temps whilst gaming (i know, no biggie) with a nicely reduced fan curve for almost-whisper-quiet performance.

- is it just me or do those AIO sleeved tubes add some busy highway character to the build?

I know nothing of significant value for an absolute requirement + the CONS: less durable, permeation, more moving parts (pump), second noise emitter (pump), etc... sucks... but it sucks more without it :p So far my X62 from 2017 is still running great.
I also have an X62 from 2017 still working just fine, but I just bought the 280 version of this cooler with the birthday/launch discount because I am not sure how much longer the liquid in the X62 will last. Isn't 7 years about the limit?


As for the ALF III, I wonder what the best way to control the fans and RGB will be? I plan on using SignalRGB for RGB function but I don't subscribe to it so I wont be able to control the fans through it (I have enough subscriptions, not paying $5 a month for fan control ;p). For the fans and pump, is it best to use the separate cable that splits fan, vrm, and pump controls and plug all 3 into my motherboard? Then use either my Bios to control the fans or Fan Control software, and most likely keep the pump running 100% all the time while the VRM / radiator fans vary based on temperature?
 
I also have an X62 from 2017 still working just fine, but I just bought the 280 version of this cooler with the birthday/launch discount because I am not sure how much longer the liquid in the X62 will last. Isn't 7 years about the limit?
I'd say that it totally depends on the sample (and luck), some may fail in few years while others can potentially last for "forever".
 
So mounting system hasnt changed much which is a bit disappointing.

Edit: Watched Gamers Nexus review and seems like new mounting hardware has gotten worse:
The mounting system is horrible, on Intel and on AMD as well. :shadedshu: Intel still has contact frame issues (reduced contact & cooling) and the spring mounting on AMD is just a pain in the a**. Had to do with spring mounting on a passive cooler back in the days and it was a total nightmare. Baffling Intel & AMD can't come up with something better.

conflicting results, GN have this smoking the lian li ga2, and tpu is the other way around
Well, no wonder when a 240 Arctic shows up to a 360 battle. :laugh: This review just doesn't make any sense and is also plain deceiving for the ones who don't look closer.
 
my 5600x3d doesn't even break 60 celsius in the most demanding of games, water just seems pointless to me at this point. lol

however... if my 8800x3d or 9900x3d hits like 82 celsius or higher in those same games... I may consider water, i'd really like to never be higher than 75 celsius in-game - because hot summers and air condition is already working hard in July and August
I mean, it's a six core ~50 W chip running at low voltages I wouldn't expect high temps even on air :)
 
I mean, it's a six core ~50 W chip running at low voltages I wouldn't expect high temps even on air :)

in games that benefit from x3d cache, it holds its own against the big dawgs drawing 150+ watts. makes me giggle sometimes :D
 
So mounting system hasnt changed much which is a bit disappointing.

Edit: Watched Gamers Nexus review and seems like new mounting hardware has gotten worse:
Have you watch that? Mounting changed much, they speak about this from beginning.

Also conflicting results, GN give minus point was AMD mounting, and plus was Intel contact frame, which it seems for TPU is reversed - because Intel contact frame is scary :eek: - blame Intel for their broken ILM not Arctic for fixing it. Arctic will improve mounting in revisions - same they do with LF II.
 
Just ordered 360 RGB version. For the current price on Amazon it's a steal.
I have LF2 but never really liked the look of the base plate or whatever it's called, new one looks good.
 
For the fans and pump, is it best to use the separate cable that splits fan, vrm, and pump controls and plug all 3 into my motherboard? Then use either my Bios to control the fans or Fan Control software, and most likely keep the pump running 100% all the time while the VRM / radiator fans vary based on temperature?
Check out the Hardware Canucks review at the 4:29 mark.


af3wires.jpg


The adapter that splits vrm, pump and fans controls has an issue. If you use it, you lose fans and vrm rpm info. The best way is to still use this cable just for vrm and pump control. Then you disconnect the fans at the radiator and use a 3 to 1 pwm splitter and have that go to a mobo PWM header. This way you get to see rpm reading for one fan.
Edit: This is not true, i have corrected my mistake in post #45.

I wish they added a coolant temp sensor and a small usb connector, like corsair and others do.
 
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I wonder if you do not use that splitter cable is the pump running at 100% all the time or is it running in some way same as fans.
 
All 3 run at the same % without the splitter. It's not optimal. Each spinning thing, pump, vrm, fans should have separate controls and rpm readings.

bulge.jpg
Fans cables inside the sleeve is also an unnecessary thing that adds an ugly bulge to the tubes. Just have them behind the motherboard, hidden, like a normal person.
 
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But if you use the splitter you lose control over fans for VRM and RAD? Then how does the motherboard control them? If it does not know at which speed they run.
 
The motherboard doesn't need rpm readings to set a speed %. It does it blindly. For the headers you would have the vrm and fans connected to, you set a temp based curve in bios or with some windows tool. At so and so temp, fans are at whatever %. The fact that you don't get rpm feedback doesn't matter. You can go by ear. :D

Or just get a simple 3 to 1 splitter for the fans.
 
Hey Guys. What should I buy in terms of noise? Currently, I have LF2 280 and at 30% speed, my 5800x3d has 60-65 degrees average. So Would it be beneficial to change LF2 280 to LF3 280 or even 360? I can put 360 on the front in my 500DX case. So are you able to help with this? Which one is more silent?
 
Mine just arrived and yeah it looks like it uses DC if you use the splitter. I think I will go the same as for LF2, just use one cable. I'm running LF2 at 40% all the time and temps never went above 80 anyway.
 
I was completely wrong.

If we look at the product page, they put the picture with the splitter wires.

ac3wires.jpg


All 3 moving things, Fans, Pump, VRM get power from the connector with all 4 wires.

Then the two connectors with 2 wires have pwm control AND rpm readings. So it's all good! We get to see rpms for everything!

Using the splitter is the best option, to adjust separately each thing and read rpms.
 
243 W on AM5? Wow, that's impressive! :)

I might get one of these the next time I upgrade my cooling.
 
243 W on AM5? Wow, that's impressive! :)

I might get one of these the next time I upgrade my cooling.
Impressive or not, I'm sticking with air. Way, way fewer headaches.
 
Gamers Nexus just posted a tear down of the AIO. :) Dr. Steve gutting it out.


Check out the Hardware Canucks review at the 4:29 mark.

Their "Fan Normalized Testing (P12Max)" is super interesting. :twitch: They slapped the Arctic P12 Max (upgraded version of the included fans) on all AIO's and the result mixes up the whole table, lol.

These fans aren't even as expensive, like RGB nonsense. Nice cheap upgrade. Any better static pressure fans out there? Totally out of the loop. ^^
 
Most of these review samples sent out are 240mm AIOs. I wonder why they're holding back on the 280/360/420 SKUs. I suspect 360+ beats the competition hands-down but why hasn't Arctic served them on a silver platter for maximum exposure?

Impressive or not, I'm sticking with air. Way, way fewer headaches.

That's where i was in 2017... in some way or form i still share the same sentiments. But it is what it is, i got SUCKED IN! It's that bloody minimal RGB infinity mirror on the NZXT X62 pump that pulled out the 'kid' in me. No regrets though, much better performance compared to my then ~£40/£50 Cryorig H7 and easily managed 5.0Ghz on a Quad i7-7700K whilst looking real pretty. I recall my wife asking "what is that" i told her the breathing ring light is an alarm and sensor linked to the house security/cam system... she believed me (a great method to justify the silly expense hehe).

Gamers Nexus just posted a tear down of the AIO. :) Dr. Steve gutting it out.



Their "Fan Normalized Testing (P12Max)" is super interesting. :twitch: They slapped the Arctic P12 Max (upgraded version of the included fans) on all AIO's and the result mixes up the whole table, lol.

These fans aren't even as expensive, like RGB nonsense. Nice cheap upgrade. Any better static pressure fans out there? Totally out of the loop. ^^

GNs vids are always quite long and very technical, a little too techie for my brain. Any highlighted pros and cons we should be aware of?
 
GNs vids are always quite long and very technical, a little too techie for my brain. Any highlighted pros and cons we should be aware of?
You can take the thing apart completely with a screwdriver for maintenance or refills. Overall good quality. The coldplate got 1mm longer fins & different channels. Tubes are more rubberized & flexible. The "fan cap" leaves room for DLC caps down the road. :) Sadly he didn't take the rotatable angled tube connectors apart. Would have been interesting to see how it's sealed and if it's prone to leaking down the road. But I guess that's a part you can't take apart without breaking.
 
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