Help - i9 14900HX | razer blade 16 (2024) rtx 4090

[Emmnot]

In this performance mode. I go into any game, first time fps is good, but after about 5 minutes it starts to fall down

Maybe undervolt can help with this, but I haven't done this before, and I haven't found approximate values for this processor. please help to customize it!

 

[unclewebb]

Maybe undervolt

If you are going to undervolt, you can use ThrottleStop or the Razer software. I would suggest not using two different programs at the same time. Two programs writing different values to the CPU voltage control register can be unpredictable.

If you are going to use ThrottleStop you could start by setting the core and the P cache to a negative offset of -50 mV for each. If that is stable then try -75 mV for each and then -100 mV for each. The 14900HX is new so there is not going to be a lot of undervolt information available yet. Starting with -50 mV should be safe. It is all trial and error after that.

Your screenshots are showing the CPU reaching 87°C when CPU power consumption is only 55W to 60W. That is not a good sign. For maximum performance these CPUs require up to 180W. No way your cooling is going to be able to cope with that much heat. The excess heat that a 4090 can create is going to make keeping the CPU cool even more difficult.

Turn on the ThrottleStop Log File option and play a game for 15 minutes. When done testing, exit the game and then exit ThrottleStop so it can finalize the log file. Attach a log file to your next post so I can get a better understanding of how your CPU is running. In the Options window check the Nvidia GPU box so this data is also included in the log file. The monitoring software you are using that reports CPU MHz on screen while gaming might not be reporting your CPU MHz accurately.

 

[Emmnot]

If you are going to undervolt, you can use ThrottleStop or the Razer software. I would suggest not using two different programs at the same time. Two programs writing different values to the CPU voltage control register can be unpredictable.

If you are going to use ThrottleStop you could start by setting the core and the P cache to a negative offset of -50 mV for each. If that is stable then try -75 mV for each and then -100 mV for each. The 14900HX is new so there is not going to be a lot of undervolt information available yet. Starting with -50 mV should be safe. It is all trial and error after that.

Your screenshots are showing the CPU reaching 87°C when CPU power consumption is only 55W to 60W. That is not a good sign. For maximum performance these CPUs require up to 180W. No way your cooling is going to be able to cope with that much heat. The excess heat that a 4090 can create is going to make keeping the CPU cool even more difficult.

Turn on the ThrottleStop Log File option and play a game for 15 minutes. When done testing, exit the game and then exit ThrottleStop so it can finalize the log file. Attach a log file to your next post so I can get a better understanding of how your CPU is running. In the Options window check the Nvidia GPU box so this data is also included in the log file. The monitoring software you are using that reports CPU MHz on screen while gaming might not be reporting your CPU MHz accurately.

I haven't configured undervolt for logging yet. I made a test with the default settings
There is no way to disable profiles in synapse, so I put in the turbo mod.

 

[unclewebb]

If the heatsink has been properly installed then your Razer laptop has completely inadequate cooling for what a 14900HX is capable of. It is like someone at Razer looked up the Intel specs and decided that a cooling solution that can handle the 55W Processor Base Power number specification should be good enough.

Intel® Core™ i9 processor 14900HX (36M Cache, up to 5.80 GHz) Product Specifications

Intel® Core™ i9 processor 14900HX (36M Cache, up to 5.80 GHz) quick reference guide including specifications, features, pricing, compatibility, design documentation, ordering codes, spec codes and more.

ark.intel.com

A 55W cooler is good enough if you only plan to use the CPU at its 2.20 GHz base frequency. Most people that spend top dollar for a high end laptop with a 14900HX are probably expecting that they will be able to run it at its 5.20 GHz turbo frequency or close to it. That is not going to be possible if the cooler is only good for 55W.

Your -100 mV undervolt is working. That increases the CPU speed about 300 MHz to 400 MHz. That still leaves the CPU running at a fraction of the speed it should be running at.

I am sure your Razer is a good looking laptop but I would be heading back to the store in a heartbeat to return it. Ask them to install a proper cooler or tell them they can have it. A similar Lenovo Legion has a cooler that can cool over 160W of heat output compared to what Razer is using. Here is a Legion example with PL1 set to 180W and PL2 set to 190W.

https://www.reddit.com/r/LenovoLegion/comments/113qbrc
Over 35000 points in Cinebench R23 for a similar 13900HX is impressive.

And here is your laptop. The MMIO PL1 power limit is set to only 50W. This keeps the CPU from overheating but kills performance compared to the competition. The 120W MSR PL1 power limit is never used. The lowest set power limit is in control of the CPU.

You can check the MMIO Lock box to get rid of that 50W low ball power limit but your laptop will be overheating probably by 60W. A small improvement if you do not mind your laptop running constantly at 100°C.

You can try undervolting a little more to -125 mV or -150 mV but the improvement will be minimal. If you go too far, at some point you will have instability issues because of not enough voltage.

 

[Emmnot]

If the heatsink has been properly installed then your Razer laptop has completely inadequate cooling for what a 14900HX is capable of. It is like someone at Razer looked up the Intel specs and decided that a cooling solution that can handle the 55W Processor Base Power number specification should be good enough.

Intel® Core™ i9 processor 14900HX (36M Cache, up to 5.80 GHz) Product Specifications

Intel® Core™ i9 processor 14900HX (36M Cache, up to 5.80 GHz) quick reference guide including specifications, features, pricing, compatibility, design documentation, ordering codes, spec codes and more.

ark.intel.com

A 55W cooler is good enough if you only plan to use the CPU at its 2.20 GHz base frequency. Most people that spend top dollar for a high end laptop with a 14900HX are probably expecting that they will be able to run it at its 5.20 GHz turbo frequency or close to it. That is not going to be possible if the cooler is only good for 55W.

Your -100 mV undervolt is working. That increases the CPU speed about 300 MHz to 400 MHz. That still leaves the CPU running at a fraction of the speed it should be running at.

I am sure your Razer is a good looking laptop but I would be heading back to the store in a heartbeat to return it. Ask them to install a proper cooler or tell them they can have it. A similar Lenovo Legion has a cooler that can cool over 160W of heat output compared to what Razer is using. Here is an Legion example with PL1 set to 180W and PL2 set to 190W.

https://www.reddit.com/r/LenovoLegion/comments/113qbrc
Over 35000 points in Cinebench R23 for a similar 13900HX is impressive.

And here is your laptop. The MMIO PL1 power limit is set to only 50W. This keeps the CPU from overheating but kills performance compared to the competition. The 120W MSR PL1 power limit is never used. The lowest set power limit is in control of the CPU.

View attachment 337255

You can check the MMIO Lock box to get rid of that 50W low ball power limit but your laptop will be overheating probably by 60W. A small improvement if you do not mind your laptop running constantly at 100°C.

You can try undervolting a little more to -125 mV or -150 mV but the improvement will be minimal. If you go too far, at some point you will have instability issues because of not enough voltage.

I will not be able to return it. The laptop was bought in the USA, and now I am in Russia)

But rather in synapse turbo mode the processor is not working at full power, hence these readings.
If you enable overclocking mode with maximum fan speed and lower the voltage to -100 mV, the readings will be different, but the temperature will be at the limit as well

 

[career]

Possibly it could be the vapor chamber malfunction. I noticed some people reported that issue. If so, you will need to replace it with the new one, and that will be really problematic to do in Russia these days and even further, in light of the facts we all see.

Okay, what to do then..

- You may still find some appropriate well-reputed service in Russia and try to do full diagnostics in the first place, they localize a problems and possibly organize the rest. If the issue is with the vapor champer, ehh, the new one could cost you think like 200-300 Euro (they mostly include new fans as well, so it will be a complete new replacement module for cooling system). Of course there will be extra charges for work. There are only a few services of that kind of level.
- You may be lucky to get this fixed without replacement of entire cooling systems, solution might be easier.

Anyway this laptop is one of the best in 2024, especially considering its OLED 240Hz display, which is n1 for notebooks for now.

*****************

PS. EDITED! Ohh wait a second, please. It seems it is not that easy with this laptop. I just have watched a review where author claims that he has the same issues and this machine is made like that by design.

So it seems that:
- it is optimized for 45-55 W of sustainable CPU Power
- it is optimized for 150 W sustainable GPU Power
- its total Thermal Package is not above 200-205 W
- it is hot allways, even when it is in idle state the fans are active
- under load, a regular teperature of CPU is 90-95, for GPU 83-86 (do not forget that Nvidia's max temp is 87)
- max performance mode with full fans speed in Razer Software does not increase the wattage but just lower a tempertures of CPU anf GPU by ~2-3 degrees, though the laptop will be very loud

Here you may see detailed report (timestamp provided)

You still have the notebook with the best display in the world that can be installed in laptops in 2024, see why (timestamp provided)

Finally i personally think you should look inside and repaste it. There could be a problem with either a thermal interface or clamp of the cooling system. This procedure can be accurately done by yourself or in a well-reputed service including full diagnostics beforehand (see above).

As a replacement, you may use following:
- as of liquid metal use only Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Extreme, or Coollaboratory Liquid Extreme, or Coollaboratory Liquid Pro. First one is the newest on the market and seems to be better one.
- as of thermal pads for CPU and/or GPU use Laird Tpcm 7250 (thickness 0,25) or Honeywell PTM7950 (thickness 0,25). First one is better.
- as of thermal pads for GPU memory, VRMs, and other stuff you may use Laird Tputty 607 in case you do not know for sure the thickness, or if you do you may use Laird Tflex or even better like Laird Tflex HP34 (see details https://www.laird.com/products/thermal-interface-materials/gap-fillers/tflex-hp34) but do it very accurately because Laird Tflex is electroconductive! Laird Tflex and pads like that are way more effective compared to Laird Tputty 607 but you have to have some knowledge to apply them right and do it very accurately.

 

[Emmnot]

PS. EDITED! Ohh wait a second, please. It seems it is not that easy with this laptop. I just have watched a review where author claims that he has the same issues and this machine is made like that by design.

So it seems that:
- it is optimized for 45-55 W of sustainable CPU Power
- it is optimized for 150 W sustainable GPU Power
- its total Thermal Package is not above 200-205 W
- it is hot allways, even when it is in idle state the fans are active
- under load, a regular teperature of CPU is 90-95, for GPU 83-86 (do not forget that Nvidia's max temp is 87)
- max performance mode with full fans speed in Razer Software does not increase the wattage but just lower a tempertures of CPU anf GPU by ~2-3 degrees, though the laptop will be very loud

Here you may see detailed report (timeline provided)

You still have the notebook with the best display in the world that can be installed in laptops in 2024, see why

Finally i personally think you should look inside and repaste it. There could be a problem with either a thermal interface or clamp of the cooling system. This procedure can be accurately done by yourself or in a well-reputed service including full diagnostics beforehand (see above).

As a replacement, you may use following:
- as of liquid metal use only Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Extreme, or Coollaboratory Liquid Extreme, or Coollaboratory Liquid Pro. First one is the newest on the market and seems to be better one.
- as of thermal pads for CPU and/or GPU use Laird Tpcm 7250 (thickness 0,25) or Honeywell PTM7950 (thickness 0,25). First one is better.
- as of thermal pads for GPU memory, VRMs, and other stuff you may use Laird Tputty 607 in case you do not know for sure the thickness, or if you do you may use Laird Tflex or even better like Laird Tflex HP34 (see details https://www.laird.com/products/thermal-interface-materials/gap-fillers/tflex-hp34) but do it very accurately because Laird Tflex is electroconductive! Laird Tflex and pads like that are way more effective compared to Laird Tputty 607 but you have to have some knowledge to apply them right and do it very accurately.

Oh, thank you very much, very good advice

 

[career]

Okay then. Once you be good and sure that your cooling is pasted and working properly, you may then get back to us to continue tunning with the TrottleStop. Its author mr Unclewebb will help you with that.

PS. That is what i would do if i were you.

Step 1. Using that review on YouTube and maybe one-two extra more i would implement the same test as their authors did. Then i would compare result and if my temperature numbers for GPU and CPU would be different for say 1-3 degrees that would have confimed that the laptop is OK. If temp delta would be higher, if i'd notice hard throttling, high temp pikes, any signs of unstable peculiar behavior of the laptop, then i'd go ahead to the step 2.

Step 2. I'd need to come up with the further actions what to do. This is a new laptop model, deep reviews and tons of shared experience have yet to be done. I'd find a service, trusted and well-reputed one. To start with diagnostics only, then depending on the service report i'd do what they would have suggested. There could be two possible scenarios - good and worse. Good one means that the only thing to do is to repaste it. Worst comes with extra charges of time and money because i'd need to replace cooling system due to its malfunction.

That it. Hope for the best, prepare to the worst.

 

[Emmnot]

Step 1. Using that review on YouTube and maybe one-two extra more i would implement the same test as their authors did. Then i would compare result and if my temperature numbers for GPU and CPU would be different for say 1-3 degrees that would have confimed that the laptop is OK. If temp delta would be higher, if i'd notice hard throttling, high temp pikes, any signs of unstable peculiar behavior of the laptop, then i'd go ahead to the step 2.

I think the temperatures will be different in any case, since the person in the video has an RTX 4080, and I have a RTX 4090

 

[dgianstefani]

I had a blade with 9750H and 2070. Your 16" has better cooling.

Earlier advice is good, repaste CPU with good paste or Conductonaut (but with some tape/nail polish as protection), and do the GPU too (paste safer here).

Thermal pads you can change but not really necessary.

With that done, Windows tuned and Synapse set to custom or balanced, I was able to play at 237 FPS locked for the games I played, mostly Siege and War thunder.

 

[career]

I think the temperatures will be different in any case, since the person in the video has an RTX 4080, and I have a RTX 4090

Not much or almost the same. What is more important is to check and compare CPU temp.

 

[Emmnot]

Settings: default

Core -110 | P Cache -110 | E Cache -100

Core -110 | P Cache -110 | E Cache -100

 

[career]

I would say that no service attendance is required here. Unless your laptop would become unstable or overheated after several hours of stress tests.

@Emmnot

Since you have a similar OLED display as i have, mine is from previous generation of Samsung's OLED panels (120Hz). Yours is a newer and has 240Hz. Benchmarks tells that it has some decent updates, here you go https://www.notebookcheck.net/Razer...h-super-fast-Samsung-OLED.804677.0.html#toc-3. So, i have some words to say to inform you in case you would decide to stay with that Razor Blade.

OLEDs are the best panels that humans created so far. Except maybe two tecnologies that can be potencially better: MicroLed and QDEL. Yet they are still in prototype stage. We would see them in laptops one day, if we were lucky to live that long. I know three OLED munufacturers in the world but only one of them produce that type of panels. Laptop OLED panels are manufactured at Samsung facilities only. You may disagree but it sounds like a monopoly.

In fact, Samsung OLEDs are well tested before they go away from the factory. I heard that some kinf of preliminary burn-in proccess is used to make their famous and precious luminescent material works the right way. Finally we get an for OLED display that is ready for years of intensive working. But that is just a theory.

As always, practise can be a something different realm. I have an Asus laptop, and Asus put a lot of efforts and invest a lot into R&D for their Lumina OLED. It comes out in software, hardware, optimizations, even a long-term warranty for displays. I do not know what Razer did at that field. Their last known OLED laptop model was Blade 15 Early 2022. I do not remember if it is been presented some extra settings for OLEDs in tab "Display" of Synapse Software back then. The same was true about MSI OLED laptops.

Your panel has been kindly pre-calibrated at the factory, thanks to Razor. That means you can be sure that color accuracy is almost fine.

Better colors, picture, and more detailed settings you can get only if you switch permanently to Nvidia GPU (MUX Switch dGPU only). Then proceed to the Nvidia Control Panel, choose "Adjust desktop color settings" and check "Override to reference mode", then save changes and restart your laptop.

To unleash full potential of your display, "go immersive" or whatever they call it, proceed to the display settings in Windows and turn on HDR. Tune some extra setting there to what you want. After that you should never turn off HDR. It does not matter what you set for display in Synapse before that action. Because if HDR is turned on, it will null that stuff anyway.

Brightness within 50% is good enough.

There is also Windows HDR Calibration app in Microsoft Store. It is made by Microsoft and gives some extra abilities to tune HDR picture. Use it if you want to.

If you want to care about your OLED, use may use this pack of tricks. All of these are must-have for you.
1. Always fade you display after 2-3 minutes of idle (setting in Windows)
2. Turn on setting to hide Windows taskbar along with transparency in Windows Themes (setting in Windows). Hidden taskbar also gives extra height within desktop for windows. If using a browser, it will be stretched to full height of the display, when taskbar is out.
3. Use these two light and useful software:
- TranslucentTB (get it for free from Microsoft Store in Windows). After installation just find the icon in the right side of taskbar, open the settings and change them as on my screenshot. It just add extra transparency to taskbar and removes borders. Do not touch other settings.
- AutoHideDesktopIcons Tool (download it here for free https://www.softwareok.com/?seite=Microsoft/AutoHideDesktopIcons). After installation just find the icon in the right side of taskbar, proceed to the settings and change them as on my screenshot. Do not touch other settings especially extra ones for taskbar!

The other must-have software is ThrottleStop, it definitely should be used!

 

[Bogus5]

How I don't like such empty words, in addition to ThrottleStop there are Intel's QuickCPU or XTU updates, so no exaggeration.

 

[Emmnot]

How I don't like such empty words, in addition to ThrottleStop there are Intel's QuickCPU or XTU updates, so no exaggeration.

What's so great about Quick CPU or Intel XTU?
This is the first time I hear from you about the first software. And Intel is unlikely to help you with undervolting.
That is why we are on a forum that is directly related to ThrottleStop and everything is clear here without exaggeration).

I would say that no service attendance is required here. Unless your laptop would become unstable or overheated after several hours of stress tests.

@Emmnot

Since you have a similar OLED display as i have, mine is from previous generation of Samsung's OLED panels (120Hz). Yours is a newer and has 240Hz. Benchmarks tells that it has some decent updates, here you go https://www.notebookcheck.net/Razer...h-super-fast-Samsung-OLED.804677.0.html#toc-3. So, i have some words to say to inform you in case you would decide to stay with that Razor Blade.

OLEDs are the best panels that humans created so far. Except maybe two tecnologies that can be potencially better: MicroLed and QDEL. Yet they are still in prototype stage. We would see them in laptops one day, if we were lucky to live that long. I know three OLED munufacturers in the world but only one of them produce that type of panels. Laptop OLED panels are manufactured at Samsung facilities only. You may disagree but it sounds like a monopoly.

In fact, Samsung OLEDs are well tested before they go away from the factory. I heard that some kinf of preliminary burn-in proccess is used to make their famous and precious luminescent material works the right way. Finally we get an for OLED display that is ready for years of intensive working. But that is just a theory.

As always, practise can be a something different realm. I have an Asus laptop, and Asus put a lot of efforts and invest a lot into R&D for their Lumina OLED. It comes out in software, hardware, optimizations, even a long-term warranty for displays. I do not know what Razer did at that field. Their last known OLED laptop model was Blade 15 Early 2022. I do not remember if it is been presented some extra settings for OLEDs in tab "Display" of Synapse Software back then. The same was true about MSI OLED laptops.

Your panel has been kindly pre-calibrated at the factory, thanks to Razor. That means you can be sure that color accuracy is almost fine.

Better colors, picture, and more detailed settings you can get only if you switch permanently to Nvidia GPU (MUX Switch dGPU only). Then proceed to the Nvidia Control Panel, choose "Adjust desktop color settings" and check "Override to reference mode", then save changes and restart your laptop.

To unleash full potential of your display, "go immersive" or whatever they call it, proceed to the display settings in Windows and turn on HDR. Tune some extra setting there to what you want. After that you should never turn off HDR. It does not matter what you set for display in Synapse before that action. Because if HDR is turned on, it will null that stuff anyway.

Brightness within 50% is good enough.

There is also Windows HDR Calibration app in Microsoft Store. It is made by Microsoft and gives some extra abilities to tune HDR picture. Use it if you want to.

If you want to care about your OLED, use may use this pack of tricks. All of these are must-have for you.
1. Always fade you display after 2-3 minutes of idle (setting in Windows)
2. Turn on setting to hide Windows taskbar along with transparency in Windows Themes (setting in Windows). Hidden taskbar also gives extra height within desktop for windows. If using a browser, it will be stretched to full height of the display, when taskbar is out.
3. Use these two light and useful software:
- TranslucentTB (get it for free from Microsoft Store in Windows). After installation just find the icon in the right side of taskbar, open the settings and change them as on my screenshot. It just add extra transparency to taskbar and removes borders. Do not touch other settings.
- AutoHideDesktopIcons Tool (download it here for free https://www.softwareok.com/?seite=Microsoft/AutoHideDesktopIcons). After installation just find the icon in the right side of taskbar, proceed to the settings and change them as on my screenshot. Do not touch other settings especially extra ones for taskbar!

The other must-have software is ThrottleStop, it definitely should be used!

Maybe you also know a good program with live or dynamic wallpaper for your desktop?

 

[career]

a good program with live or dynamic wallpaper for your desktop

You will find some for free in the Microsoft Store. Use text "live wallpaper" in search bar. I tested some, looks good but becomes annoying in a while.

@Bogus5 Hey! Oh my goodness! You come over to make us miserable again!?

Surely i tried both of them, and even more.

Quick CPU and some more from CoderBag. Good enough, but i found it redundant to me. Do not want to speak a lot about software that i do not use anymore. CoderBag also made a good utility for parking cores, i used it and it is working fine too, but honestly it is not that easy. I found scenarios when using that kind of software can cause performance downgrade. You always have to know what you do and why.

XTU comes from Intel and can be used as official tool to overclock, undervolt (overvolt), and stability benchmark. It is good and useful.

 

[Emmnot]

Is it normal that there is a film on the thermal pad here?)

 

[career]

Please do not use cheap ISA screwdriver or whatever it is ever! Unless you want to say good by to your black fancy razer's screws. Insted, buy yourself Wiha Microbits (model Wiha 39971), or Wurth Precision Set (model Wurth 06134895), or at least Ugreen Precision Screwdriver Set (model Ugreen CM373).

Okay then. There is two kind of manufacturers: one can do good coolings and the other cannot. Truthfully i have been watching for Razer many years but cannot say they much succeeded in that. Asus can, Lenovo can, even Alienware and some others like XMG can, Razor is somewhat different. You see, Razer does not do some "extreme" machines, instead they do eye-catcher stuff optimized for ordinary use and games. We must admit that they succeeded to get its stable place in the market.

What that protective film belongs to? Is it Wi-Fi adapter or what? Depending on what it covers, it can have different purposes. Anyway, if it is there it has to be there, leave it as it is, especially if it is Wi-Fi adapter.

On your photo of back plate i see a lot of thick thermal pads that connects chassis with main unit, made to conduct heat from hot spots from some selected components to metallic chassis. In my opinion, that is not what can be called new era of technological and effective cooling in laptops.

Considering what i see, there will be two suggestions for you.
- You do not have to change anything inside, only to check and maybe fix or repaste the main thermal interfaces for CPU and/or GPU, if you are really intended to do that.
- Having that kind of thermal design with heat transferring to metallic down plate presented, you may try and buy some effective USB cooling pad, some of them does come in black! It definitely should help with temp and stability of components under continuous loads.

Meanwhile, i still do not get it. Why to go inside?))

You have been told that your temperatures of CPU and GPU are quite alright according to the screenshots you provided.
What do you want to achieve anyway, sir? Can you please just explain your intentions to us?!

You should know that Razers are very optimized and very compact devices. They could have a components that are very hard to come by in case something goes wrong.

So, do not do anything reckless inside!

 

[Emmnot]

Please do not use cheap ISA screwdriver or whatever it is ever! Unless you want to say good by to your black fancy razer's screws. Insted, buy yourself Wiha Microbits (model Wiha 39971), or Wurth Precision Set (model Wurth 06134895), or at least Ugreen Precision Screwdriver Set (model Ugreen CM373).

Okay then. There is two kind of manufacturers: one can do good coolings and the other cannot. Truthfully i have been watching for Razer many years but cannot say they much succeeded in that. Asus can, Lenovo can, even Alienware and some others like XMG can, Razor is somewhat different. You see, Razer does not do some "extreme" machines, instead they do eye-catcher stuff optimized for ordinary use and games. We must admit that they succeeded to get its stable place in the market.

What that protective film belongs to? Is it Wi-Fi adapter or what? Depending on what it covers, it can have different purposes. Anyway, if it is there it has to be there, leave it as it is, especially if it is Wi-Fi adapter.

On your photo of back plate i see a lot of thick thermal pads that connects chassis with main unit, made to conduct heat from hot spots from some selected components to metallic chassis. In my opinion, that is not what can be called new era of technological and effective cooling in laptops.

Considering what i see, there will be two suggestions for you.
- You do not have to change anything inside, only to check and maybe fix or repaste the main thermal interfaces for CPU and/or GPU, if you are really intended to do that.
- Having that kind of thermal design with heat transferring to metallic down plate presented, you may try and buy some effective USB cooling pad, some of them does come in black! It definitely should help with temp and stability of components under continuous loads.

Meanwhile, i still do not get it. Why to go inside?))

You have been told that your temperatures of CPU and GPU are quite alright according to the screenshots you provided.
What do you want to achieve anyway, sir? Can you please just explain your intentions to us?!

You should know that Razers are very optimized and very compact devices. They could have a components that are very hard to come by in case something goes wrong.

So, do not do anything reckless inside!

Not my photo, but here's what's in here.

I took it apart to blow the dust off it.

You're right about the screwdriver

 

[career]

This is a hub. This is not what is called "a hotter place".

If i get it correctly, the thermal pad under hub is stickied to the down plate, then comes that unknown film, then metal cover of the hub, then finally hub. Is it correct scheme? I'm not sure it is abnormal. I may assume two reasons we see it there:

- there was a lack of the thickness of that hub's thermal pad, so they add that film as a workaround (probably by the time the assembly was started they could not order different thermal pads with required height)
- this film is really on purpose there, it could have some characteristics that are necessary there

Think, anyway, if it is something wrong happens with that hub cooling in future, you will notice that. It affects the stability. It is not located deeply inside of the die, so you can change its thermal pad any time, or try other options.

 

[Emmnot]

This is a hub. This is not what is called "a hotter place".

If i get it correctly, the thermal pad under hub is stickied to the down plate, then comes that unknown film, then metal cover of the hub, then finally hub. Is it correct scheme? I'm not sure it is abnormal. I may assume two reasons we see it there:

- there was a lack of the thickness of that hub's thermal pad, so they add that film as a workaround (probably by the time the assembly was started they could not order different thermal pads with required height)
- this film is really on purpose there, it could have some characteristics that are necessary there

Think, anyway, if it is something wrong happens with that hub cooling in future, you will notice that. It affects the stability. It is not located deeply inside of the die, so you can change its thermal pad any time, or try other options.

It's just a regular film, the same as on any other thermal pad

 

[career]

You can remove it if you think that it is not supposed to be there. I cannot see it so i can only trust your words and guess what is there. Maybe, as the thermal pad directly connects metallic chassis with the motherboard, it can be for antistatic purposes, i doubt that though. Looks like more realistic that somebody just forgot to remove that film when the laptop being assembled.

 

[Redwoodz]

Wouldn't be the first time an installer forgot to remove the protective film.

 

[dgianstefani]

Wouldn't be the first time an installer forgot to remove the protective film.

Any and all films on thermal pads are supposed to be removed, they're there to protect the pad before installation.

Thermal pads are for conducting heat, there are other types of thermal insulation for blocking heat, alienware uses these so that the laptop directs heat in certain ways ie keyboard doesn't get hot.

 

[career]

there are other types of thermal insulation for blocking heat, alienware uses these so that the laptop directs heat in certain ways ie keyboard doesn't get hot.

Agreed, i was always wondering about why they started to use that black covering for heat pipes. Finally i found the answer, it was a similar reason to one you mentioned here.