- Joined
- Apr 18, 2019
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- 2,473 (1.16/day)
- Location
- Olympia, WA
System Name | Sleepy Painter |
---|---|
Processor | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 |
Motherboard | Asus TuF Gaming X570-PLUS/WIFI |
Cooling | FSP Windale 6 - Passive |
Memory | 2x16GB F4-3600C16-16GVKC @ 16-19-21-36-58-1T |
Video Card(s) | MSI RX580 8GB |
Storage | 2x Samsung PM963 960GB nVME RAID0, Crucial BX500 1TB SATA, WD Blue 3D 2TB SATA |
Display(s) | Microboard 32" Curved 1080P 144hz VA w/ Freesync |
Case | NZXT Gamma Classic Black |
Audio Device(s) | Asus Xonar D1 |
Power Supply | Rosewill 1KW on 240V@60hz |
Mouse | Logitech MX518 Legend |
Keyboard | Red Dragon K552 |
Software | Windows 10 Enterprise 2019 LTSC 1809 17763.1757 |
Have you tested your C-A adapting cables, directly connecting to a 3.0+ spec device?
A lot of USB-C cables (of all terminations-configurations), are 1.1-2.0 cables in USB3's clothing, or 'charge only' cables, or resistor-hacked 'fast charge' cables...
The specific configuration of cable you're looking @, is wrought w/ mis-labeling and outright fraud.
You might even consider getting cheapie USB-C and USB-A (3.0/3.1/3.2) breakout boards, so you can map any cables you have/get w/ a DMM.
A lot of USB-C cables (of all terminations-configurations), are 1.1-2.0 cables in USB3's clothing, or 'charge only' cables, or resistor-hacked 'fast charge' cables...
The specific configuration of cable you're looking @, is wrought w/ mis-labeling and outright fraud.
You might even consider getting cheapie USB-C and USB-A (3.0/3.1/3.2) breakout boards, so you can map any cables you have/get w/ a DMM.