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Good Bronze 750w PSU

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MSI MAG A750BN 750W 80+ Bronze PCIE5​


ATX Corsair CX750 750W 80 Plus Bronze​


ATX Corsair RM650 650W 80 Plus Gold Full Modular​


not sure what version of the CX750 but I'll assume it the latest one

CX 750 - (non-M) resonant LLC platform unit with decent caps and rated at 40c. Typically for the price these units are pretty good, capable and review well.

RM 650 (2021 version) - better caps, fan, and efficiency than the CX model and rated to 50c

MSI MAG A750BN 750W 80+ Bronze - cheap fan and cheap caps, closer to the CX 750 than the RM 650. Ive not seen a review but I would put it a notch below the CX750.

Here's the thing. All three PSUs are built by the same company. Corsair is more hands on in development than MSI who just white labels the product. of the three, the RM 650 is the clear winner and a very good PSU in own right. It's a notch below the best units from Corsair, XPG, and Seasonic but its price also reflects that and for most people they would never know the difference between a RM and RMx unit.
 
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a test with results taken at three intervals at room temp at that
That's why I'd rather much consider Cybenetics nowadays. While they still have a similar tiering for their ETA (efficiency) ratings, their reports are quite comprehensive - topology, components and so on, at least for newer models which go through their certification. It requires some technical knowledge to understand what's what, but it's there.
The issue is that manufacturers most frequently won't send their lesser models.
 
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The compromise is only the budget?
So why does one cost more than the other?
 
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Im not using for high end , to be honest ....the day i get money to buy a premium GPU i think i wont have a problem to spend money on a good psu , for now i just have a 6650xt and probably will buy the new things coming next month , and not the top , will be at max mid tier stuff , have like 500-600 at max for cpu + board and memory.

ATX Corsair RM650 650W 80 Plus Gold Full Modular this one its at 87 euro​


and

ATX Seasonic G12 GC Series 750W 80 Plus Gold = 90 euros​



Think the better choice is the seasonic right ?
get the GM seasonic, skip the G12. Its OK but not made by them, closer to the RM series in performance as they did some cost cutting (and don't send it out for review)

The best there is.

Seasonic is the OEM of other popular PSU brands.
May want to look into the world of server PSU with such companies as Flextronics and Delta. Both of whom occasionally will build units for the less demanding consumer market. In fact only Delta even tried to build a digital unit to go against Flextronics 1600w behemoth that this website stated "There is no doubt that the AX1600i is better in every single way when compared to the AX1500i, and it is the best PSU I have ever tested currently."

Also, on HB list of best reviewed PSU for each category; CWT leads Seasonic in wins and mentions. Not knocking Seasonic, they are excellent but its a PSU not a engine for NASA. Plenty of quality OEMS out there.
 
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@ty_ger and others unfamiliar with the 80 PLUS certification program, please understand I am NOT making this up or even expressing my opinion here. I am just stating the facts. Please read what the 80 PLUS program is about here: 80 PLUS certification specifications and ratings | CLEAResult and note the following (my bold UPPERCASE underline added):

Our standards are recognized by ENERGY STAR® and the European Union (EU) for being significantly more efficient than standard PSUs, giving manufacturers a unique MARKET opportunity to differentiate their premium products and improve consumer confidence.

Again, I am not criticizing the 80 PLUS program. It is a great program and I will ALWAYS ensure any PSU I buy (or recommend) is 80 PLUS certified. I am just saying, do NOT read more into the 80 PLUS certifications than the program was designed for.

So why does one cost more than the other?
Several reasons. It cost more to design a PSU to be more efficient across a broader range of loads. It may take more components and require some of those to have tighter tolerances. These add to the manufacturing costs but do NOT ensure higher quality components are being used or longer lasting components, or better quality construction techniques or better quality assurance inspections.

Also, you will notice manufacturers typically include more goodies in those higher certified products so they can increase the price and profit margins. These "may" include more or fancier cables. Zero RPM and/or quieter fans. Or maybe a nice bag to keep your extra cables in.
 
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In general, I think my initial statement stands on its own. It takes a lot of mental gymnastics to come to different conclusions. Why are people -- in this thread alone -- recommending non-bronze PSUs to this OP?
As I stated, if you look at reviews and tier rankings -- as flawed as they are -- bronze are generally at the bottom. Additionally, like I said, warranty period tends to similarly follow the same trend; and warranties are based on manufacturer's confidence in the endurance of the product due to profitability.
I agree that bronze doesn't mean bad, and gold doesn't mean good, but in general, there is a definite correlation between efficiency and trust.
 
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There is a very good thread on this forum that dispels the internet myth about the 80 Plus ratings and also an idea about how much you might save by spending more on a higher efficiency rated PSU.

 
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Again, I am not criticizing the 80 PLUS program
I am although I agree with everything Bill stated. All the 80 plus issues (not my list but too lazy to go into further detail)

Small number of measurements in order to classify a PSU into one of its categories.
The methodology allows for manufacturers to submit golden samples.
Very low ambient temperature at which the measurements are conducted.
It doesn’t measure the standby power consumption (vampire power), which is essential to the European market, where all PSUs should comply with the ErP Lot 6 and ErP Lot 3 directives.
It doesn’t take into account the 5VSB rail’s efficiency.
There is no clear mention of testing equipment.
80 PLUS doesn’t effectively deal with fake efficiency badges.
 
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In general, I think my initial statement stands on its own. It takes a lot of mental gymnastics to come to different conclusions.
Sorry, but the only mental gymnastics going on here is you twisting the facts to satisfy your own misguided beliefs.

By your own admission, this 500W no-name 80 PLUS Gold is a better supply than this 500W Seasonic Bronze just because it is Gold. :(

Good luck with your purchase.

Time to move on.
 
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Sorry, but the only mental gymnastics going on here is you twisting the facts to satisfy your own misguided beliefs.

By your own admission, this 500W no-name 80 PLUS Gold is a better supply than this 500W Seasonic Bronze just because it is Gold. :(

Good luck with your purchase.

Time to move on.
You don't like generalities, do you?
Do you want to play the point, counter-point game?
I like how you ignore my points, and then come up with specific examples in a vacuum that support your position. What's the point in having a discussion with a wall?
How about you address what I said? Or just let my opinion stand on its own. I'm not going to agree with you; because everything I said was logical and generally true. In general, bronze PSUs are built with compromise and in general there are better PSUs to choose for not a substantially greater cost.



Regarding efficiency, I upgraded to Titanium because I realised that my general PC usage was low load, where my unit's efficiency was low and not within a range defined by 80-plus gold certification; and upgrading to Titanium dropped my typical energy consumption essentially in half. You could argue that 30 watts vs 60 watts is of little importance, but it is indeed half. My previous PSU -- with a peak output greatly exceeding my needs -- did start making noises and I was looking to replace it anyway.
I think it is worthwhile that people consider their typical load and the consequences of the lack of efficiency definition for some certifications. In other words, low load efficiency can be really different between PSUs. Titanium rated units can be vastly better in some regards, because low load efficiency is defined.
 
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It's not THAT hard lol.

We have specific PSUs here, we recommend from the list, because those already have been reviewed.

Therefore we do NOT surmise their quality from efficiency - we already know, what sort of quality we deal with.

Whether you want to extrapolate quality from 80+ rating in general is up to you, but is clearly not foolproof method, and unnecessary here to begin with.

For the record, if there were none, I'd advise AGAINST the PSU until appropriate tests were made, regardless of 80+ badge it has.
 
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This is because, if you do the math, it will typically take YEARS to make up the extra costs of the Platinum or Titanium PSU in energy savings. MANY YEARS!!!
Can easily soak up less than a couple decades in northern European countries where electricity bills are so ridiculous that people smoke instead of vaping because it's cheaper. It's about as much as PSUs do live if you don't abuse them... much. I still got a couple PSUs built in late XX century that are fully functional. Both are fuelling basic "let me watch some youtube and play some GTA" computers of ~150 W peak load but anyway.

Regarding the original question, the easiest way is to buy some A-tier unit from the Cultists' list, literally whatever you can afford, assuming the wattage is reasonable. S-tier units are for heavily paranoid guys. xD
 
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You don't like generalities, do you?
Not when they are wrong. And if you bothered to look and actually read and understood what is being said, except for those last specific examples in my clearly futile attempt to get you to open your eyes and mind and see the truth, I have been talking in generalities all along.

I like how you ignore my points
No one here is ignoring your points. What we (and note no one here is taking your side and claiming you are correct) have done is repeatedly shown you where you are wrong. Multiple posters have come in to point out the facts, with links to examples. You have provided none. Now if you are claiming, with no supporting evidence, you are right and the rest of the world is wrong, then my apologies. :rolleyes:

So, show us one white paper, one study, one technical report that shows a higher efficiency 80 PLUS certification automatically implies the PSU will have:

1. Better regulation,​
2. Tighter voltage tolerances,​
3. Better ripple suppression,​
4. Better hold-up time compliance,​
5. Better intake surge protection,​
6. Better longevity...​
...JUST BECAUSE it is rated Platinum, for example, instead of Gold or Bronze. Please, show us!​

Note those are the criteria for a better PSU - NOT a higher price tag!

Regarding efficiency, I upgraded to Titanium because I realised that my general PC usage was low load, where my unit's efficiency was low and not within a range defined by 80-plus gold certification; and upgrading to Titanium dropped my typical energy consumption essentially in half.
This is nonsense. As EVERYONE can easily see here, the difference at 50% load between Gold and Titanium is a mere 4%. All your anecdotal example tells me, if really accurate, is you obviously did NOT have the PSU properly sized for the typical load presented by your computer components to ensure the PSU is operating at the desired ~50% load level the majority of the time. Your example tells me YOU FAILED to select the right size PSU. Sadly, this a common mistake as most inexperienced, ill-informed users believe (1) they need a bigger PSU than they really do and (2) that a bigger PSU is always better. Both are typically wrong.

Can easily soak up less than a couple decades in northern European countries
Less than a "couple decades"? :eek:

While technically, my comment of "many years" fits the category of less than 20 years, some realism should come into play here. By far the vast majority of users, including those reading this, do not keep their current computers 10 years, let alone more than that. Many upgrade every 5 - 7 years, or even less and expect, and see their PSUs supporting them that full length of time.

~150 W peak load but anyway
I say again, people need to do the math. Don't guess - you will be wrong.

150W at Gold's 90% efficiency means the PSU is pulling from the wall 167W (167 x .9 = 150.3 watts). That same 150W load supported by a Titanium's 94% efficiency means that supply is pulling from the wall ~160W.

So between the Gold and the typically much more expensive Titanium, a 150W load consumes a mere 7W more with the Gold. This is about the same as a child's traditional nightlight.

I note 7W goes into 1kW 142.857 times!!!! How much does a kilowatt hour cost in your country? In Denmark, it is $0.53 for 1kWh. In the Czech Republic, it is just $0.37.

Unless you are folding 24/7, no way your computer is pulling 150W, 24 hours in a day. And frankly, watching YouTube is not demanding. Playing games certainly can be, but even high demand games do NOT max out demands the full time they are running, and players are not playing 24/7.

Even heavy PC users average less than 6 hours of PC use every day and of those 6 hours, the PC is closer to idle most of the time rather than maxed out.

Are there exceptions? Of course, but exceptions don't make the rule - hence my use of generalities.

So I say again, it typically would take MANY YEARS to make up the difference in costs between a quality gold and similarly spec'ed Titanium.
 
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there's a certain relation between a PSU's 80plus rating and its quality; for instance it is all but impossible to make a gutless wonder that can hit platinum/titanium specs (not yet, anyways), besides outright cheating (submitting modified golden sample for testing or something)

in the same vein, these days a quality psu generally hits 80plus gold rather effortlessly; consequently it is rare if not outright impossible to find good/decent bronze rated ones. after all, there's no reason to not certify your psu for the highest tier it can reach
(note: 80plus gold certification does not necessarily automatically mean a given psu's also of good quality. these days you can [without too much cheating] make your gutless wonders hit 80plus gold)
 
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By far the vast majority of users, including those reading this, do not keep their current computers 10 years, let alone more than that. Many upgrade every 5 - 7 years, or even less and expect, and see their PSUs supporting them that full length of time.
This doesn't mean they need to upgrade their PSUs as often. High quality ones survive for longer than I lived (3 decades so far) so you can easily fit about five different builds on top of the same PSU provided you don't exceed its physical limitations.
150W at Gold's 90% efficiency means the PSU is pulling from the wall 167W (167 x .9 = 150.3 watts). That same 150W load supported by a Titanium's 94% efficiency means that supply is pulling from the wall ~160W.

So between the Gold and the typically much more expensive Titanium, a 150W load consumes a mere 7W more with the Gold. This is about the same as a child's traditional nightlight.
Sure.

20 years is about 20 times 12 times 30 times 6 times 0.007 kW difference in this scenario.

Provided our electricity is half a dollar per a kW it's 151 USD savings in 20 years of such usage:
1718233162821.png

It's worth more than just one decent PSU. Doesn't math this way where I live, I chuckle at puny $0.08 per kW. That's why I don't care that much personally, which doesn't mean these poor guys who have to pay 7 times more for the same wattage don't exist. I account them, too.

That's why I specifically said when having a more efficient PSU actually matters. When your electricity bills are ridiculous and you only upgrade when it breaks, meaning maybe once in your life, or twice if you're really pushing it (discarding low quality / factory defective units).
 
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Just found this one at big discount .

Seasonic Fonte de alimentação Focus GX750 750W - 105€​


Buy this one if you can afford it. Very high quality. Great stuff!
 

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Man with all this talking i don't know what to do , by the way i decided to , im starting to think a 650w bronze will be enough for me , im, not using premium GPU .
 
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Pick whichever one you trust to deliver consistent power.
Overclocking options have created very unusual and stressful situations with load level calibration and efficiency.
If it can push the amps to your current, next and later gen CPU+GPU, you good.
I've probably been holding onto this one for too long though.
1718238726743.png


An Eldritch horror in any timeline, it's an 80PLUS device that predates the bronze, silver, and other badges.
As it has managed my Phenom II X4, FX-8370, R5 3600, HD6570, RX 580 and still has enough to take on the 7900XT, it is a complete mystery.
I'm sure it will puke someday as I've maybe gone through it twice but this is not that day, month or decade.
You'll find something like this.
 

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Man with all this talking i don't know what to do , by the way i decided to , im starting to think a 650w bronze will be enough for me , im, not using premium GPU .
I can't blame you, but it's quite common here, unfortunately. What CPU and GPU do you have?
 

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I can't blame you, but it's quite common here, unfortunately. What CPU and GPU do you have?

Right now i have a intel 2600k + 6650 xt , but im upgrading next month for am5 + ddr 5 + the new 9000 cpus.
 
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Right now i have a intel 2600k + 6650 xt , but im upgrading next month for am5 + ddr 5 + the new 9000 cpus.

Well, it's one thing if your 13 year old platform with cheap motherboard and $10 cpu from aliexpress dies, it's another if your brand new AM5 machine does, and it already looks like you can't spend much to replace things if it goes south.

Buy the Seasonic Focus. That's all you'll need, assuming you'll keep the 6650 XT. Don't skimp on power supply.
 

SL2

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A 650 W will work great for that, so unless you're going to to buy a much more hot running GPU in the future I'll think you be good.

Just remember that launch prices for CPU's are high, so if you're on a tight budget it might not be the best time to buy. Just a thought.
 

doomexpt

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A 650 W will work great for that, so unless you're going to to buy a much more hot running GPU in the future I'll think you be good.

Just remember that launch prices for CPU's are high, so if you're on a tight budget it might not be the best time to buy. Just a thought.
Yeah , im sure i will overpay for like 50-100€ , but i guess its gonna be worth , i have a 13 year old cpu :p
 
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SL2

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Also, don't forget the ATX 3.0 part, easy to miss.
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