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Watercool Announces the MO-RA IV Radiators for 200mm Fans

btarunr

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The MO-RA IV series is the perfect choice for anyone seeking maximum cooling performance and excellent build quality. These monster radiators are fully modular and versatilely expandable, ideal for overclocked gaming computers, workstations or servers that are in use around the clock. WATERCOOL has optimized the fin geometry to increase performance across the entire speed range. The German manufacturer has now opted for so-called corrugated fins, which are designed to provide more power.

In addition, the pre-chamber has been optimized. WATERCOOL has raised the pre-chamber to ensure better pressure distribution. The solid brass connection terminal is now soldered to the tube geometry. This ensures greater mechanical stability and a maximum pressure of up to 5 bar. All MO-RA IV units are thoroughly pressure tested before despatch.



Modular and expandable
The MO-RA IV series can be upgraded and customized extensively. Whether wall mounting with the WALL MOUNT or the installation of a flow-optimized MO-RA TANK with one or more D5 pumps - the possibilities are almost unlimited. According to the manufacturer, you can assemble an external cooling station in a class of its own, naturally with the highest quality workmanship.


User-friendly and convenient
Thanks to years of experience and a lot customer feedback, WATERCOOL has integrated numerous convenient functions. The newly designed fan frame can be installed without screws via Quick Mount, and the fan grill also snaps tightly into place, thanks to a special ball mechanism.



Perfect control with passive, active and aRGB
With the optional passive control, the fans and pumps for the MO-RA IV can be controlled via the mainboard.



The Active Control, which is supported by a microcontroller, offers additional options. The outstanding features include an alarm function, integration of the WATERCOOL FLOW, monitoring of the fill level and display of digital temperature sensors. The Active Control can be conveniently controlled via software or the optional display, which ensures flexible and user-friendly management.

Perfect cable management
The integrated fan frame includes a fan splitter so that all fan cables can be installed out of sight. A 4-pin male to male cable is fed through the back of the MO-RA IV and connected to the computer.

The MO-RA IV series is now available for pre-order at shop.watercool.de. The manufacturer estimates a delivery time of around 30 days.

View at TechPowerUp Main Site
 
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Noice ! that's what i call OVERKILL ! you can cool a V8 engine with that radiator. :laugh:
 
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This should be a good solution to dump heat from PC outside the room/house(granted pump used is sufficiently powerful).
 
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Sure, I always wanted to have a separate AC for my PC, why not.
 
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At that size condensation will become an issue in humid climates.

It works the other way around.
Without an heat exchanger the temperature of the WC circuit will still be hotter than surrounding air and water condensate on surfaces colder than the ambient air.
 
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It works the other way around.
Without an heat exchanger the temperature of the WC circuit will still be hotter than surrounding air and water condensate on surfaces colder than the ambient air.

Scientifically correct but I'll assume (a) you've never lived in the tropics during rain season and (b) you intend to keep the computer running 24/7.

Let me explain:
In the early hours of the day, right before sunrise, the metal of the radiator will get colder than ambient temperature and with a humidity of well over 90% droplets will begin to form in the sides and slowly flow to the bottom and accumulate. If you're lucky, the company that sold you the radiator did a very good job with the coating and nothing serious will happen the next time you turn on the PC and the radiator gets hot enough to evaporate the water, leaving only a thin layer of residue. If you're unlucky, the metal of the radiator will start to rust and the water will cause those LED lights to shortcircuit or even worse, shock you.
 
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Scientifically correct but I'll assume (a) you've never lived in the tropics during rain season and (b) you intend to keep the computer running 24/7.

Let me explain:
In the early hours of the day, right before sunrise, the metal of the radiator will get colder than ambient temperature and with a humidity of well over 90% droplets will begin to form in the sides and slowly flow to the bottom and accumulate. If you're lucky, the company that sold you the radiator did a very good job with the coating and nothing serious will happen the next time you turn on the PC and the radiator gets hot enough to evaporate the water, leaving only a thin layer of residue. If you're unlucky, the metal of the radiator will start to rust and the water will cause those LED lights to shortcircuit or even worse, shock you.

You can assume all you want, dew is an issue everywhere in this situation, not just on a PC radiator. And I certainly worry about it more anywhere else than on a PC radiator.
Especially since the bottom is drilled in so many places, paint coating is so heavy and power to the LEDs is supplied through a PSU with short-circuit protection. Condensation on the radiator is the last of my concern.
 
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Funny enough, about 15 years ago I picked up an old copper-brass car radiator from the wreckers that i planned to use for a water cooling project. Never got around to it though lol.
 
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You can assume all you want
I happen to be speaking from experience. Also, I'm not the one making assumptions about the build and quality of the radiator.
It's fine if you don't care about condensation. Most people don't. Even I don't where I'm currently at.
I was just pointing out a very real gap in your logic.
 
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Had an setup a while back using Mo-ra 420 with an zalman reserator V2 and it was silent the fans only kicked in once in a while even under full load but when they did kick in they where on for a while because they had 6 liters of coolant to cool but man I loved that combo.
 
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Daaaaaaaaaang. That looks like a pretty sweet upgrade. They definitely put some more thought into how people are using them. Mine for example has some fugly wiring and splitters on the back and I modded one of their brackets to mount a different company's reservoir because I already had a reservoir I like a lot.
 
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Had an setup a while back using Mo-ra 420 with an zalman reserator V2 and it was silent the fans only kicked in once in a while even under full load but when they did kick in they where on for a while because they had 6 liters of coolant to cool but man I loved that combo.

so why get rid of it?
 
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The pairing of D5 and MORA is odd especially given the sizeable pressure drop from such a large rad. You want head pressure not flow here.
 
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The pairing of D5 and MORA is odd especially given the sizeable pressure drop from such a large rad. You want head pressure not flow here.
Probably why they have the dual-pump setup you can buy. Doesn't increase flow-rate, but will increase pressure.

Smart to get the product launched before Intel 15900KS and GeForce 5090, I'm sure there are more than a couple crazy enthusiasts that will build with these rads.
Considering I have a MO-RA3 420 (and a 420mm rad inside my case) for a 13900k and 4090, I'm not sure if I'm supposed to take offense to this :p
 

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The pairing of D5 and MORA is odd especially given the sizeable pressure drop from such a large rad. You want head pressure not flow here.
Low head pressure with stock top units. Most D5 come with custom tops that take care of the head pressure issue. Watercool likely took that into account with the part.
 
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so why get rid of it?
New computer different setup and I like to try new things plus it took up a lot of space. I still have the Reserator V2 but don't use it I just keep incase I need it they where fantastic value at the time about 170 and considering it's solid aluminium that was a great price. The pump was rubbish but easily removed and the Mo-ra I sold which I regret I had a custom enclosure made for the d5 that bolted onto the Mo-ra and got a power supply with a molex to power it.
 
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Now I will need to add another GTR560 to keep up with the Joneses.
 
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Low head pressure with stock top units. Most D5 come with custom tops that take care of the head pressure issue. Watercool likely took that into account with the part.
It barely makes a difference and this was proven under tests by Martin using aftermarket tops a decade ago.
 

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It barely makes a difference and this was proven under tests by Martin using aftermarket tops a decade ago.

You sure about that? I see nothing on his website for D5 top tests. Only DDCs
 
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just use a double DDC if you're worried.
 
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This looks fantastic. I've been wanting to downsize my main rig case and a few quick disconnects to MA-RA would make it happen.
 
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I happen to be speaking from experience. Also, I'm not the one making assumptions about the build and quality of the radiator.
It's fine if you don't care about condensation. Most people don't. Even I don't where I'm currently at.
I was just pointing out a very real gap in your logic.
What you are experiencing is the dew point reaching the ambient temperature.

This is a view for my weather station for the last 24 hours. You can see around 6 AM, the dew point and the outdoor temperature get real close.

1721439151992.png


If we look at humidity level, we can see that around 6 AM, it was near 100%.
1721439251898.png


Hotter air can hold more water than colder water. A 50% humidity at 5° C have much less water in suspension than air at 30° C with still 50% humidity. Actually the % of humidity is the % of the maximum amount of water you can hold in the air.

I live in a colder climate and we experience the opposite in winter. The cold air from outside get in our house, and because very dry after being heated to indoor temperature. That make the air very dry and uncomfortable. We actually have to run humidifier to keep it bearable.

So again, what you experience is the air no longer being able to hold all the water it have in it. The water have to condensate somewhere and it do not matter if the temperature is hotter/colder, the water just have to go somewhere. In that case a larger radiator would indeed provide more surface for condensation. But that is not because it's colder than air. That is just impossible without something that would actively cool the water.

Also, all this assume you have no air conditioning and you open your windows to cool your house at night. If you have an air conditioner, the temperature will be stable and it will remove humidity from the air anyway.
 
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