I need help for my newly built pc my entire pc is on but the display on my monitor reamins black screened

[itsSpeccy]

I have the ROG Strix B550-f gaming wifi II motherboard its rgb lights turn on everything is spinning as it should my new GPU which is a MSI 4060 ti gaming x slim model its rgbs also tirn on the fans spin too my DRAM is also working fine since it came from my build that i just upgraded from so i know they work i really dont see what that issue is also i have reset the bios countless times by taking out the cmos battery and reinstalled the bios through usb at the back using the flashback button but still not luck, i also know that my cpu has no damaged pins and is working fine its is a Ryzen 5 5600 X btw, is my motherboard or psu like dead or something cuz i really dont understand how it could be since these parts are all fresh out of the box apart from the CPU and RAM everything is also getting all the power it needs but still wont boot past a straight black screen and i couldnt find any video turtorials that helped. Also for some reason the my mouse and keyboard wont turn on even tho ive cronfirmed there are no issues with the RAM sticks also there are no indicators on my motherboard that say theres a problem with something

 

[eidairaman1]

Make sure monitor is plugged into the card, make sure monitor power is on, do a clear cmos and start it up, give it 10 minutes as it can take time for memory to train.

If after 15 minutes no dice, take the gpu out and reseat it, if still no go, try gpu in another system.

 

[itsSpeccy]

Make sure monitor is plugged into the card, make sure monitor power is on, do a clear cmos and start it up, give it 10 minutes as it can take time for memory to train.

If after 15 minutes no dice, take the gpu out and reseat it, if still no go, try gpu in another system.

I have already tried the cmos method but still nothing on the display also ive determined the gpu isnt the issue because i swapped it it for my old one and the issue still persisted

 

[eidairaman1]

I have already tried the cmos method but still nothing on the display also ive determined the gpu isnt the issue because i swapped it it for my old one and the issue still persisted

Tried diff monitor and monitor cable?

Have you removed battery and did clear cmos that way?

From page 1-21 of your motherboard manual states the Q-LEDs only light if there is a component failure, that tells me right there you have a monitor problem.

Turn your speakers on and power up and see if you hear a tune of windows booting.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Also for some reason the my mouse and keyboard wont turn on

If wireless, try wired. If they still don't work, it would seem your USB ports are not getting power. That would suggest a PSU or motherboard issue.

Verify your graphics cable is security connected to correct ports. Make sure all RAM and the graphics card are properly seated in their slots. Make sure ALL power connections have been make. This includes the additional motherboard and graphics card power connections.

If 200% sure all power cable connections have been made, and connected securely, I would swap in a known good PSU.

You may need to remove everything from the case and re-assemble everything on a large bread/cutting board, then see if it boots properly there. If it does, triple check to make sure there are no foreign objects in the motherboard mounting area and that you didn't insert an extra standoff under the motherboard.

Any extra standoff in the case creates the potential for an electrical “short” in one or more circuits. The results range from "nothing" (everything works perfectly) to a wide assortment of odd problems, to "nothing" (as in nothing works at all ). To add to the confusion, these issues may be intermittent, depending on heat, expansion/contraction of materials, as well as continuity/resistance through the contact point. Therefore, you need to ensure the case only has an inserted standoff where there is a corresponding motherboard mounting hole.

Note the latest version of the ATX Form Factor standard hopes to eliminate these issues by dictating where case standoffs and motherboard mounting holes will go, not just where they may go as recommended by past versions of the standard. This will ensure no extra standoff could end up under a motherboard. However, this only applies to newly designed and marketed cases and motherboards. Not all existing motherboards or cases currently on the market comply with those latest standards - yet. So, you still should verify you only inserted a standoff where there is a corresponding motherboard mounting hole.

Also, please fill out your TPU System Specs so we all know what hardware we are dealing with.

 

[[crs]]

Did you screw your motherboard directly to the case without risers? Pic 3 makes it look like there are none.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Did you screw your motherboard directly to the case without risers? Pic 3 makes it look like there are none.

Hmmm, I agree, it looks like standoffs (risers) were not used. However, if not, then the ports in the rear panel I/O area, and the expansion card slots would not align properly with the motherboard. That would be bad.

 

[80-watt Hamster]

You've done most of the basics, so if none of the above works, it may be time to go all the way.

Remove the MB and set it on a non-conducting surface. It's box should work well if you've still got it. You may need to also remove the PSU if you can't arrange it so the 24-pin will reach the board.

Disconnect everything except: 24-pin and 8-pin power, 1 RAM module, GPU and KB, wired if you've got it. Install KB in USB 2.0 port if available. CLRCMOS again. If it still won't boot, swap RAM modules. If still nothing, try a different slot. If still nothing, swap modules back. If STILL nothing, you'll need to swap in known-good components to isolate the culprit. Borrow if you can, otherwise buying cheap and/or returnable parts is an option.

Failures ranked from most likely to least: MB, GPU, RAM, PSU, monitor, CPU

Side note: Pick up a piezo speaker if you can. They're stupid cheap and can sometimes tell you more than diagnostic lights alone.

 

[SlumpLord3000]

Based on the pictures, he has the HDMI plugged into the Motherboard. There is no onboard graphics. It'll never work unless you have the G series CPU or the HDMI is plugged into the video card output. Send pics with everything connected.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Remove the MB and set it on a non-conducting surface. It's box should work well if you've still got it.

Non-conducting surface, yes, but I do not recommend the motherboard box. Sadly, many inks used in printing use conductive materials and since it is likely these motherboard boxes were printed in places with zero regulation and safety oversight, there is no telling what materials, including lead, is in these inks.

That is why I suggested above to use a bread/cutting board as they typically are made of unfinished (non-conductive) wood or plastic. Plain (brown) cardboard will work too.

 

[DarkDreams]

Well the pictures show a PC without a graphics card installed and the monitor seems to be plugged into the mainboard, which will never work with a 5600X because it has no iGPU. You also say there are no indicators on the board, yet the last pic shows the VGA led clearly turned on. I'm confused with this whole post.

 

[ShrimpBrime]

Well the pictures show a PC without a graphics card installed and the monitor seems to be plugged into the mainboard, which will never work with a 5600X because it has no iGPU. You also say there are no indicators on the board, yet the last pic shows the VGA led clearly turned on. I'm confused with this whole post.

This 100%.
VGA light is on, No VGA installed.

Install the new card, then diagnose. Video display port must be connected to the card (or hdmi).

 

[DirtyDingusMcgee]

No igpu on 5600x sure look s like problem to me.

Also, that EPS-12v is only plugged in 4 of the 8 pins. They'll run that way, but i'd feel better about it if that was plugged in correctly.

 

[Caring1]

No igpu on 5600x sure look s like problem to me.

Also, that EPS-12v is only plugged in 4 of the 8 pins. They'll run that way, but i'd feel better about it if that was plugged in correctly.

The EPS-12V is plugged in to the 8 pin connector, the 4 pin beside it is supplemental.

 

[DirtyDingusMcgee]

The EPS-12V is plugged in to the 8 pin connector, the 4 pin beside it is supplemental.

Couldn't really tell from picture. I looked at board specs. Fair enough......but, still

 

[GerKNG]

RAM is in the wrong slots, this CPU is physically unable to show a picture and where is the GPU?

 

[FreedomEclipse]

RAM is in the wrong slots, this CPU is physically unable to show a picture and where is the GPU?

No. RAM is definitely in the right slots.

Apparently, Im pretty blind

 

[GerKNG]

No. RAM is definitely in the right slots.

View attachment 366614

 

[FreedomEclipse]

View attachment 366615

Alright. You win this one

 

[eidairaman1]

Waiting on op to return...

 

[Caring1]

No. RAM is definitely in the right slots.

View attachment 366614



Apparently, Im pretty blind

No, the lit ram is in the correct slots, the clearer picture shows them after the user moved them apparently.

 

[itsSpeccy]

If wireless, try wired. If they still don't work, it would seem your USB ports are not getting power. That would suggest a PSU or motherboard issue.

Verify your graphics cable is security connected to correct ports. Make sure all RAM and the graphics card are properly seated in their slots. Make sure ALL power connections have been make. This includes the additional motherboard and graphics card power connections.

If 200% sure all power cable connections have been made, and connected securely, I would swap in a known good PSU.

You may need to remove everything from the case and re-assemble everything on a large bread/cutting board, then see if it boots properly there. If it does, triple check to make sure there are no foreign objects in the motherboard mounting area and that you didn't insert an extra standoff under the motherboard.

Any extra standoff in the case creates the potential for an electrical “short” in one or more circuits. The results range from "nothing" (everything works perfectly) to a wide assortment of odd problems, to "nothing" (as in nothing works at all ). To add to the confusion, these issues may be intermittent, depending on heat, expansion/contraction of materials, as well as continuity/resistance through the contact point. Therefore, you need to ensure the case only has an inserted standoff where there is a corresponding motherboard mounting hole.

Note the latest version of the ATX Form Factor standard hopes to eliminate these issues by dictating where case standoffs and motherboard mounting holes will go, not just where they may go as recommended by past versions of the standard. This will ensure no extra standoff could end up under a motherboard. However, this only applies to newly designed and marketed cases and motherboards. Not all existing motherboards or cases currently on the market comply with those latest standards - yet. So, you still should verify you only inserted a standoff where there is a corresponding motherboard mounting hole.

Also, please fill out your TPU System Specs so we all know what hardware we are dealing with.

It was a motherboard issue it seems that it was dead on arrival so i sent it back and got a refund

 

[Bill_Bright]

Thanks for coming back and posting the resolution.