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PSA: don't use alcohol on acrylic tubing.

l1CappYl1

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Broke down my computer to give it a good cleaning. Noticed my tubing was still looking frosty inside so I tried spraying some alcohol in it to try and rinse it out. Within seconds cracks formed and it became brittle, breaking apart easily in my hands.
Dunno if that was common knowledge or not, but I didn't see any posts about it, so it doesn't hurt to share.
 

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Also don't use alcohol or other volatile solvents to clean surfaces painted with acrylic paint.
 
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Plexiglass/Acrylics are soluble in IPA and it will destroy it within seconds.
 
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It is common knowledge.

But it was bad eitherway. Not surue but I never liked hard tubing, maybe pure copper ones, but nope. I like how black tubes look, gives me HR Giger vibes lol.
 
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l1CappYl1

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It is common knowledge.

But it was bad eitherway. Not surue but I never liked hard tubing, maybe pure copper ones, but nope. I like how black tubes look, gives me HR Giger vibes lol.
Soft tubing is definitely much quicker and easier to set up. I don't mind the extra work for hard tubes, except for the sawing. That part sucks.
 
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@Ferrum Master
naah. clear tube, solid black fluid :D
still haven't found one in opaque, where you see movement in the coolant.
 

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It is common knowledge.

But it was bad eitherway. Not surue but I never liked hard tubing, maybe pure copper ones, but nope. I like how black tubes look, gives me HR Giger vibes lol.
Measuring and bending is the only thing which really sucks with hardtubing.
 

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Measuring and bending is the only thing which really sucks with hardtubing.
In the bends material does get thinner
 

l1CappYl1

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@Ferrum Master
naah. clear tube, solid black fluid :D
still haven't found one in opaque, where you see movement in the coolant.
I don't use colored coolant as it tends to stain everything. After this experience, I'm going to go with frosted tubing for my next build.

Measuring and bending is the only thing which really sucks with hardtubing.
For me it's the cutting, which I've hopefully solved with the purchase of a mini table saw.

tb_image_share_1733468727125.jpg.png
 
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@l1CappYl1
depends a lot on the brand.
i had brightly green (solid) coloring, and after +2y in an (unprepped) loop, had left less stains, than the clear blue additive in less than 8 month,
and that was when i used sys-prep to coat the inside of tubing/loop.
 
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@Ferrum Master
naah. clear tube, solid black fluid :D
still haven't found one in opaque, where you see movement in the coolant.

You run it on crude oil? Mine is violet now, I use antifreeze + distilled water like 1:4 or 1:3 ratios, my mixed metal experimental loop with aluminum rads do not corrode with that solution. 4 years long test 1 and 2 years test 2 build. No additives needed for me.

I use 10/16 EPDM tubes, they have less problems with bending, just pick a proper angled fitting, zero problems there, I even have used same sized nitrile gasoline tubes, only you have to flush the before, car stuff is crazy dirty, but cheap and eveywhere.
 
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@Ferrum Master
cant find dark opaque anymore, probably going with white on the next case change (and loop rebuild).
white

dont care for additives besides biocide+distilled water, but wanted to see how their premixed coolant holds up.
 
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dont care for additives besides biocide+distilled water, but wanted to see how their premixed coolant holds up.

Modern antifreeze car solutions have all additives you need also. And you can pick your color too... cheap, safe, good looking. Rare combination these days. Those pastel like coolants are not for me.

You can try yellow, you could imagine what it would look like :D :roll:
 
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too many variable and no long term large scale testing i have seen that makes them safer, just preference.

yeah, wasnt for me either, until is saw the ones where you can see "swirls", but they are only for short use.
show coolant

either this, or white.

haha, the solid one looks cool, clear, not so much :D
 

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I don't use colored coolant as it tends to stain everything. After this experience, I'm going to go with frosted tubing for my next build.


For me it's the cutting, which I've hopefully solved with the purchase of a mini table saw.

View attachment 374700
Make sure its a fine tooth saw and not coarse
 
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@Ferrum Master
naah. clear tube, solid black fluid :D
still haven't found one in opaque, where you see movement in the coolant.
could always put in a flow indicator wheel
1733612656554.jpeg


Or for full on bragging rights could put in an EH picomag with flow and temp readout............but if you do you'll have to go all out and use swagelok tube and fittings just because.......
1733612829488.jpeg
 
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So the lesson here is:

If you're drinkin, don't go tubin....

If you're goin tubin, don't drink, hahaha :roll:

But seriously, I always thought this was common knowledge, just like not mixing bleach & ammonia, or hot engines with cold water :D
 
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@mechtech
already have that.
with "movement" i didnt mean the flow (of coolant) but having different shades producing swirls like you see with fluid dynamics, but the ones i find are all for show builds,
and cant be used for longer.

lol, got a temp display on the board, i'll know if the pump stops.. :D

@bonehead123
and yet, ppl are pouring hot water on frozen windshields :banghead:
 
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@ |1CappY|1, just use some mild dishwasing soap it should do the trick.
You can also use some soft cloth to apply a little pressure on the stains when cleaning.
Then make sure it is rinsed properly with distilled water to removed all the soap residues.

Ethanol (Ethyl alcohol), like Methanol (Methyl Alcohol) will ruin them as you noticed, however IPA (Iso-Propyl-Alcohol) @ room temperature is compatible and won't damage it.

However IPA is not available everywhere in some countries/regions it is restriced (controlled substance) as it is used for manufactering illegal stuff o_O.

If you want to know more about chemical compatibillity of PMMA see link below:
https://marketing.industrialspec.co...mma-chemical-compatibility-chart-from-ism.pdf
 

l1CappYl1

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@ |1CappY|1, just use some mild dishwasing soap it should do the trick.
You can also use some soft cloth to apply a little pressure on the stains when cleaning.
Then make sure it is rinsed properly with distilled water to removed all the soap residues.

Ethanol (Ethyl alcohol), like Methanol (Methyl Alcohol) will ruin them as you noticed, however IPA (Iso-Propyl-Alcohol) @ room temperature is compatible and won't damage it.

However IPA is not available everywhere in some countries/regions it is restriced (controlled substance) as it is used for manufactering illegal stuff o_O.

If you want to know more about chemical compatibillity of PMMA see link below:
https://marketing.industrialspec.co...mma-chemical-compatibility-chart-from-ism.pdf
Much more expensive and not easily obtainable where I am. Lesson learned and no real harm done. Turns out I was going to have to re tube anyways as my replacement GPU is longer and won't fit my pump/reservoir in the same orientation.
 
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Broke down my computer to give it a good cleaning. Noticed my tubing was still looking frosty inside so I tried spraying some alcohol in it to try and rinse it out. Within seconds cracks formed and it became brittle, breaking apart easily in my hands.
Dunno if that was common knowledge or not, but I didn't see any posts about it, so it doesn't hurt to share.
It is common knowledge.
It's not as common as one might think.

This is a good PSA.
 
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