Need some way to get seriously clean audio output.

[Fastfishy2]

I will start by describing the problem. Whenever some system sounds - and occasionally some game sounds once in a blue moon depending on how they're sampled - are suddenly stopped, various headsets I've tried can make a very subtle "pop" which annoys the hell out of me. I've got very sensitive hearing so I always notice it when it happens.

I switched from AudioTechnica M30x to HyperX cloud III's and nothing changed much in that regard. I also tried a fiio K1 DAC with both headsets as well as the included DAC with the hyperX headset, and while switching to USB DAC in general did remove the crackling while playing with the windows volume slider, other sounds still make a pop when cut off quickly, particularly lower frequency sounds.

I did some more digging and this seems to be a problem I'm not going to be able to avoid, something to do with sounds suddenly being cut while at a certain point on the sine wave will generally cause a "pop" and I was able to easily replicate it with a clip of a very low frequency sound.

Is there anything I can get for my Windows 11 desktop that has some sort of filtering or applies a tiny fade out to all audio when it stops? I don't want to hear these pops anymore, even though they're very rare. I've got more USB slots free than I care to admit, and got PCI expansion slots free as well.

Is this possible?

 

[Vayra86]

Can't say I hear pops on a proper audio system hooked up with optical, and I use this system to mix DJ sets too on a DDJ400. So hard cuts galore I also pre-listen on the same channel with headphones, no issues like that.

Try hooking up the entire audio output directly to an external amplifier, and hooking up the headphone to this amp. I think your issue will be gone. Can't use USB Headsets then - and I reckon that's also the core of your problem. You might just be cutting off the entire channel all the time instead of just not hearing audio, because its an all digital connection and saves power by turning off, whereas an open audio output to the receiver is always on.

 

[Wirko]

I did some more digging and this seems to be a problem I'm not going to be able to avoid, something to do with sounds suddenly being cut while at a certain point on the sine wave will generally cause a "pop" and I was able to easily replicate it with a clip of a very low frequency sound.

That seems to be the right explanation. My suggestion is to check the wav files with system sounds in C:\Windows\Media. Play them with a player you trust. Edit them by adding a fadeout if necessary.

 

[unwind-protect]

Yeah, you have to fix the sounds, e.g. in Audacity.

A sudden cutoff is a sharp "turn" in the waveform, which is a different word for a high- and medium-frequency noise pop.

You can really do general filtering on a mixed stream for this without plugging a filter into the sounds player so that it runs individually on all sounds.

 

[Fastfishy2]

Can't say I hear pops on a proper audio system hooked up with optical, and I use this system to mix DJ sets too on a DDJ400. So hard cuts galore I also pre-listen on the same channel with headphones, no issues like that.

Try hooking up the entire audio output directly to an external amplifier, and hooking up the headphone to this amp. I think your issue will be gone. Can't use USB Headsets then - and I reckon that's also the core of your problem. You might just be cutting off the entire channel all the time instead of just not hearing audio, because its an all digital connection and saves power by turning off, whereas an open audio output to the receiver is always on.

So, buy an external Amp and hook up the headset with the 3.5mm jack? It has that option. Which type of Amp am I looking for? And will I still be able to use the headset microphone with one?

I should also note my motherboard does have what appears to be an optical output, labeled SPDIF OUT

That seems to be the right explanation. My suggestion is to check the wav files with system sounds in C:\Windows\Media. Play them with a player you trust. Edit them by adding a fadeout if necessary.

I mean, the system sounds are totally fine unless I do something to cut them quickly e.g. if I get an administrator access prompt and quickly click "yes" before the notification sound has finished, there's a wee pop sound when it cuts out.

 

[Vayra86]

So, buy an external Amp and hook up the headset with the 3.5mm jack? It has that option. Which type of Amp am I looking for? And will I still be able to use the headset microphone with one?

I should also note my motherboard does have what appears to be an optical output, labeled SPDIF OUT

That or you can start with the analog mic in/out on your back panel, with that you can at least rule out USB if it still pops and if you're lucky it fixes the whole thing.

You will need a separate jack on the headset for mic and headphone. If you are hooking optical to external amp I don't think you can get mic in from the amp, its one-directional output. That is something you can fix with a separate microphone (for example on a stand).

As for amp, really anything that accepts the plug you use on your PC as well (optical, for example) and has output quality / wattage that you seek. There are mini amps these days that still have quite a bit of power, and don't cost a lot. Hook up a pair of passive speakers and done. But I think with a good external DAC you can achieve something similar and it might even support headphone mic better.

Example (and a decent device, have one downstairs powering two giant speakers, doing that just fine, don't expect audiophile level quality).

Fosi Audio BT20A Bluetooth Amplifier 2CH Stereo Amp Receiver

Fosi Audio's HiFi amplifier receiver DAC preamp delivers 100W x 2 power, Bluetooth connectivity & 280W(8Ω)/320W(4Ω) speaker support.

fosiaudio.com

I mean, the system sounds are totally fine unless I do something to cut them quickly e.g. if I get an administrator access prompt and quickly click "yes" before the notification sound has finished, there's a wee pop sound when it cuts out.

Yeah if its just the notifications then edit those files instead in Audacity or something. Sounds like a more fitting solution than replacing hardware. There's also the option to just kill all those notification sounds. Its easy to get used to

 

[Dr. Dro]

Make sure that the audio resolution and sample rate isn't set too high in Windows settings. You probably don't need 32-bit, 384kHz sampling rate, even if you're listening to Blu-ray format audio files. CD-quality audio is 16-bit, 44,100 Hz, DVD is 16-bit, 48,000 Hz, and most source-quality recordings will not exceed 24-bit, 96,000 Hz resolution. Setting Windows to 24-bit, 48,000 Hz should be enough to play the largest majority of audio files with no quality loss and will save CPU cycles (audiodg.exe high CPU usage), which in turn should minimize pops and crackles. Disable any spatial audio software, if you happen to be using them.

If you feel like you have a hardware issue and happen to be the market for something that will sound absolutely pristine, you should use an external, electrically isolated output device stack connected to a properly grounded outlet. Usually a dedicated DAC and headphone amp stack. The Audio Science Review forum has many highly technical, high quality reviews on the very best audio devices around, for shallow and deep pockets alike. For the accompanying headphones, @VSG's reviews here at TPU are amazing!

Wireless audio can be prone to pops and interruptions, so I wouldn't advise in your particular case. I wish you luck!

 

[Fastfishy2]

That or you can start with the analog mic in/out on your back panel, with that you can at least rule out USB if it still pops and if you're lucky it fixes the whole thing.

You will need a separate jack on the headset for mic and headphone. If you are hooking optical to external amp I don't think you can get mic in from the amp, its one-directional output. That is something you can fix with a separate microphone (for example on a stand).

As for amp, really anything that accepts the plug you use on your PC as well (optical, for example) and has output quality / wattage that you seek. There are mini amps these days that still have quite a bit of power, and don't cost a lot. Hook up a pair of passive speakers and done. But I think with a good external DAC you can achieve something similar and it might even support headphone mic better.

Example (and a decent device, have one downstairs powering two giant speakers, doing that just fine, don't expect audiophile level quality).

Fosi Audio BT20A Bluetooth Amplifier 2CH Stereo Amp Receiver

Fosi Audio's HiFi amplifier receiver DAC preamp delivers 100W x 2 power, Bluetooth connectivity & 280W(8Ω)/320W(4Ω) speaker support.

fosiaudio.com

Yeah if its just the notifications then edit those files instead in Audacity or something. Sounds like a more fitting solution than replacing hardware. There's also the option to just kill all those notification sounds. Its easy to get used to

I have a separate USB desk mic I can use instead, so that's a doable solution. And the mic on my headphones detaches if not needed.

As for muting the notification sounds, I could do that, the issue is it can also sometimes happen if a game has audio tracks that suddenly cut for various reasons (looking at you Stalker 2) or things like apple TV+ in chrome browser which seem to be prone to a pop sound when pausing. YouTube also occasionally has this behavior too.

I guess I'm just trying to find something that will stop my headphone drivers from making that wee pop when sounds suddenly get cut at low frequencies, whether that be through some kind of universal fade-out or adjustment of the output itself.

I used to have my headphones directly wired to the motherboard 3.5mm jack but that never solved the issue and there was additional crackling when playing with the volume slider, although from looking around it seems that this is an often-reported issue stemming from fucky Realtek drivers or firmware. Easily sidestepped with a DAC.

 

[Veseleil]

What @Dr. Dro said. Also try to disable all windows enhancements (post processing) for your specific output device in:

 

[Fastfishy2]

What @Dr. Dro said. Also try to disable all windows enhancements (post processing) for your specific output device in:

View attachment 376119View attachment 376118

I will have a look over those options, thanks!

Make sure that the audio resolution and sample rate isn't set too high in Windows settings. You probably don't need 32-bit, 384kHz sampling rate, even if you're listening to Blu-ray format audio files. CD-quality audio is 16-bit, 44,100 Hz, DVD is 16-bit, 48,000 Hz, and most source-quality recordings will not exceed 24-bit, 96,000 Hz resolution. Setting Windows to 24-bit, 48,000 Hz should be enough to play the largest majority of audio files with no quality loss and will save CPU cycles (audiodg.exe high CPU usage), which in turn should minimize pops and crackles. Disable any spatial audio software, if you happen to be using them.

If you feel like you have a hardware issue and happen to be the market for something that will sound absolutely pristine, you should use an external, electrically isolated output device stack connected to a properly grounded outlet. Usually a dedicated DAC and headphone amp stack. The Audio Science Review forum has many highly technical, high quality reviews on the very best audio devices around, for shallow and deep pockets alike. For the accompanying headphones, @VSG's reviews here at TPU are amazing!

Wireless audio can be prone to pops and interruptions, so I wouldn't advise in your particular case. I wish you luck!

Would something like the FIIO K5 ESS pro Amp / DAC work for this?

 

[qxp]

One possibility for the "pop" is that the audio card is changing state somehow - like being put into a low power mode or switching off amplifier. Try using a different audio card, for example a USB one or Bluetooth module. If the "pop" goes away, that's the problem.

 

[Fastfishy2]

One possibility for the "pop" is that the audio card is changing state somehow - like being put into a low power mode or switching off amplifier. Try using a different audio card, for example a USB one or Bluetooth module. If the "pop" goes away, that's the problem.

It doesnt really do it if the sound is allowed to finish "cleanly" but if certain sounds get "cut off" halfway through playback it can sometimes make that pop noise. It's 100% reproducible on certain very low frequency sounds, I found a clip the other day someone had linked to a forum from tiktok that was a really low frequency hum and pausing the video would make a very noticeable pop every time. That was actually the whole reason they had linked the video.

 

[Onasi]

Would something like the FIIO K5 ESS pro Amp / DAC work for this?

Yeah, will do just fine. If you want something more “modern” for not a lot of money their K11 is a direct successor/upgrade. The base version, not the R2R one. About as much of a DAC/Amp as most people will ever conceivably need.

 

[Fastfishy2]

Yeah, will do just fine. If you want something more “modern” for not a lot of money their K11 is a direct successor/upgrade. The base version, not the R2R one. About as much of a DAC/Amp as most people will ever conceivably need.

Will that one work though? It only has 4.4mm or 6.5mm output, and separated L+R output channels on the back as well as some kind of combined 3.5mm input/output (I think they're 3.5mm on the back). I need 3.5mm output on the amp because my headphones have the option of using that or USB. And the 3.5mm output needs to be in one combined jack, unless it's easy to get a splitter?

 

[Onasi]

@Fastfishy2
It comes with an adapter, so I wouldn’t worry. Just like the K5, which is also 6.35, so?????

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/fiio-k11-r2r-desktop-dac-headphone-amplifier/images/packaging-5.jpg

Edit: Wait, you mean “combined jack” as in with a microphone in? Sorry to say, but almost no device on the market would have that. Off the top of my head, only couple of Creative external cards.
I am confused even more now since the K5 you’ve asked about doesn’t have that feature either?

 

[Fastfishy2]

@Fastfishy2
It comes with an adapter, so I wouldn’t worry. Just like the K5, which is also 6.35, so?????

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/fiio-k11-r2r-desktop-dac-headphone-amplifier/images/packaging-5.jpg

Edit: Wait, you mean “combined jack” as in with a microphone in? Sorry to say, but almost no device on the market would have that. Off the top of my head, only couple of Creative external cards.
I am confused even more now since the K5 you’ve asked about doesn’t have that feature either?

I thought it did but thinking about it, maybe it does not.

My headset has a 3.5mm jack which also includes microphone capability. I don't need the microphone on the headset tho as I have a desk mic I can use. Just need an amp that can send sound through my 3.5mm jack to my headset. No actual mic capability required.

It's the HyperX cloud III for reference, and I have a HyperX solo cast mic I can use separately

 

[Vayra86]

Isn't this what you're looking for to connect (any) amp to headset? You can safely forget about bi-directional 3.5mm to a DAC or your pc. Very rare, I haven't seen much if any of that, not sure how that would work technically either, since its an analog connection.

3.5mm > RCA

 

[Fastfishy2]

Isn't this what you're looking for to connect (any) amp to headset? You can safely forget about bi-directional 3.5mm to a DAC or your pc. Very rare, I haven't seen much if any of that, not sure how that would work technically either, since its an analog connection.

3.5mm > RCA
View attachment 376154

Alright, well that solves that part of the puzzle then. Might need to think on it for a bit, because I'd hate to spend >$250 NZD on an amp just to find out it doesn't make the occasional pop go away.

 

[Fastfishy2]

Is the FIIO KA1 (16ohms listed) sufficient to drive the HyperX Cloud III (64ohms listed)?

 

[Veseleil]

64 OHM is nothing really to most of the audio interfaces.

 

[Fastfishy2]

View attachment 376805
64 OHM is nothing really to most of the audio interfaces.

Ooh I see, so 16 is really the minimum the KA1 can comfortably do. Right.

Yeah, you have to fix the sounds, e.g. in Audacity.

A sudden cutoff is a sharp "turn" in the waveform, which is a different word for a high- and medium-frequency noise pop.

You can really do general filtering on a mixed stream for this without plugging a filter into the sounds player so that it runs individually on all sounds.

I'm interested in this "general filtering" solution but Google is proving a bit confusing. What program do I use to set up such a filter and how do I do it?