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How to quickly & easily fix coil-whine(coil choke noise)

Nitefly

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Just about to get started… am I missing any chokes on this Gigabyte 3090 vision…?



Thanks - p.s. sorry if the photo is massive!
 

Nitefly

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Right - here’s how it went… mixed bag in terms of the procedure but no need to be proud, someone else can learn from my mistakes :)

I decided to be generous with the glue. These caps were thirsty… glug glug glug!! Slurp slurp!!

… hmm was I adding a bit too much… eh, not sure.

Yes, yes it was too much. Tilting the GPU resulted in a wave of glue heading towards the pcie header - nooooooo!!! :eek:

Fortunately, it never reached it: the SLI slot however was not so lucky. Pretty such that has been rendered unusable! Oh well!

I also tried clearing up excess glue with numerous items… cotton buds, good, alcohol wipes… not so good - caused instant ‘whitening’ of the glue so there are some marks on the board. Hopefully harmless.

It’s been drying for about an hour, but I’ll leave it a couple more before reassembly. Fingers crossed that I didn’t kill it :D
 

cristobal17

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I tried with a rx6800xt sapphire pulse. I only applied glue on 3 chokes close to the pci headers. Noise wasn't completely eliminated but now is not that bad.
 
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Right - here’s how it went… mixed bag in terms of the procedure but no need to be proud, someone else can learn from my mistakes :)

I decided to be generous with the glue. These caps were thirsty… glug glug glug!! Slurp slurp!!

… hmm was I adding a bit too much… eh, not sure.

Yes, yes it was too much. Tilting the GPU resulted in a wave of glue heading towards the pcie header - nooooooo!!! :eek:

Fortunately, it never reached it: the SLI slot however was not so lucky. Pretty such that has been rendered unusable! Oh well!

I also tried clearing up excess glue with numerous items… cotton buds, good, alcohol wipes… not so good - caused instant ‘whitening’ of the glue so there are some marks on the board. Hopefully harmless.

It’s been drying for about an hour, but I’ll leave it a couple more before reassembly. Fingers crossed that I didn’t kill it :D
Acetone gently applied will remove the unwanted CA glue. Cotton swabs work well. CA glues can be a pain when over used, but do clean up somewhat easily. Just takes time and patience.
 

ad1

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Right - here’s how it went… mixed bag in terms of the procedure but no need to be proud, someone else can learn from my mistakes :)

I decided to be generous with the glue. These caps were thirsty… glug glug glug!! Slurp slurp!!

… hmm was I adding a bit too much… eh, not sure.

Yes, yes it was too much. Tilting the GPU resulted in a wave of glue heading towards the pcie header - nooooooo!!! :eek:

Fortunately, it never reached it: the SLI slot however was not so lucky. Pretty such that has been rendered unusable! Oh well!

I also tried clearing up excess glue with numerous items… cotton buds, good, alcohol wipes… not so good - caused instant ‘whitening’ of the glue so there are some marks on the board. Hopefully harmless.

It’s been drying for about an hour, but I’ll leave it a couple more before reassembly. Fingers crossed that I didn’t kill it :D
Any improvement regarding coil whine? I hope you won't say it's perfectly silent because the card is dead :)
 

Nitefly

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Hey - sorry for the slow reply.

Following up, no, I don’t think the glue fix reduced the coil whine for me. I did actually go back for round two but no improvements were made.

Card seems generally rock solid in games / benchmarks but I am encountering scenarios where the monitor will dip on and off for a couple of seconds - has happened on the desktop too. Nothing obvious coming up in windows event viewer. Hard to know if this is related or whether it was happening before the mod, it is possible I caused this myself, somehow. Just trying to identify what is happening, process of elimination. Different cable and different ports are still have the same issue… monitor swap next… then probably reinstall windows… if it still happens well then I guess I borked it! I’ll grab a 50 series card so not the end of the world even if that is the case.
 

empty

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Halo anyone . Im new member here i want some help.


I have colorful igame gtx1060 6gb vulcan u. It makes coil whine and i want to try the glue method. Can you guys circle where is the the coil choke part? Currently i am far away from my home so i cant screenshot my gpu board.Also,what tools i need for other than superglue?Another thing,can i use cotton bud for glue the coil choke?
Sorry for my bad english


Hope you can reply this post. Thank you
 
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Halo anyone . Im new member here i want some help.


I have colorful igame gtx1060 6gb vulcan u. It makes coil whine and i want to try the glue method. Can you guys circle where is the the coil choke part? Currently i am far away from my home so i cant screenshot my gpu board.Also,what tools i need for other than superglue?Another thing,can i use cotton bud for glue the coil choke?
Sorry for my bad english


Hope you can reply this post. Thank you
Sure, attach some photo's of your card PCB and I'd be happy to help! Welcome to TPU! :toast:
 

Solore

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Where should I apply glue? This is Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4080 Super Gaming OC

1735149997390.jpeg
 

Solore

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And another question: should I focus on applying the glue just around the inductor to remove the gap? Or should I try to pour the glue inside the inductor to fill the empty space?
 
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Where should I apply glue? This is Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4080 Super Gaming OC

View attachment 377151
These are the parts that need sealing;
MysteryGPU.jpeg

Parts highlighted in red.

And another question: should I focus on applying the glue just around the inductor to remove the gap? Or should I try to pour the glue inside the inductor to fill the empty space?
Just sealing the gap should have the correct effect. Desoldering the choke itself is not required as more(but not all) inductors are solid state these days.
 
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It didn't help. GTX 1650 SUPER.
This tread and the guide in the first post is absolutely not about using hot glue. It's about SuperGlue otherwise known as cyanoacrylate glue. Isopropyl Alcohol will help you get all that crap off your card. Be careful or you'll damage it.
 

melfi01

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Hi, in january i will attempt to use superglue with the intention of toning down my whiny 3080 asus strix 10g. Once my thermal pads will arrive (some 21w upsiren pads from aliexpress) i will do a full post explaining more and giving some background into this but before anything i wanted to ask a question related to the inductors. I took a photo from the tpu review of the 12g 3080 strix and i see some of the inductors (the ones that are in line next to one another) are touching. Could that also be a reason for coil whine? I'm thinking due to vibration and inductors touching one another (I don't know yet if my card has crooked or touching inductors because i haven't opened it to see). Could i somehow jam something inbetween them, like some verry small amount of thermal pad or maybe i could just try to push the inductor a bit. I'm guessing that could potentially damage the inductor and create some more problems down the line, am i right? What are your thoughts or tips on this.
And could you please also highlight the inductors i'm supposed to work on? I have a good ideea of which ones i should touch but i would like to get confirmation, thank you!
 

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Nitefly

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Hey - sorry for the slow reply.

Following up, no, I don’t think the glue fix reduced the coil whine for me. I did actually go back for round two but no improvements were made.

Card seems generally rock solid in games / benchmarks but I am encountering scenarios where the monitor will dip on and off for a couple of seconds - has happened on the desktop too. Nothing obvious coming up in windows event viewer. Hard to know if this is related or whether it was happening before the mod, it is possible I caused this myself, somehow. Just trying to identify what is happening, process of elimination. Different cable and different ports are still have the same issue… monitor swap next… then probably reinstall windows… if it still happens well then I guess I borked it! I’ll grab a 50 series card so not the end of the world even if that is the case.

As an update to the above post..... I finally figured out what has been going on!!!

In short, the cables I've been using haven't been able to support the bandwidth. The monitor can support 160fps at 4k... but display port 1.4a sockets cannot... at least without reverting to using DSC.

I think what has been happening is that the monitor has been flipping between using DSC and not, depending on the use case... this checks in with the sort of 'monitor changing display' glitch that happens when alt tabbing out of game when using an Nvidia card. Display port 1.4 with a 2.1 DP bandwidth cable was a massive improvement but the glitch did occur again.

I'm now using the HDMI 2.1 cable that came with the monitor and it's been solid since... here's hoping I solved it. The issue has never arisen when using an older non-2.1 HDMI cable because my other monitors are only 1440p.

My hunch is that my PC can detect what the monitor can support but has no idea what cable is being used, which enables idiot users like me to make a mismatch. It then got choked out when the bandwidth got exceeded and it couldn't compress enough to get through the 1.4a display port socket.

Again, apparently it's Nvidia cards that apparently struggle with DSC turning on and off (i.e. when alt tabbing out of games).

Thought I'd mention it if that's helpful to anyone.

TLDR: I didn't break the card with the glue :D
 

melfi01

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As an update to the above post..... I finally figured out what has been going on!!!

In short, the cables I've been using haven't been able to support the bandwidth. The monitor can support 160fps at 4k... but display port 1.4a sockets cannot... at least without reverting to using DSC.

I think what has been happening is that the monitor has been flipping between using DSC and not, depending on the use case... this checks in with the sort of 'monitor changing display' glitch that happens when alt tabbing out of game when using an Nvidia card. Display port 1.4 with a 2.1 DP bandwidth cable was a massive improvement but the glitch did occur again.

I'm now using the HDMI 2.1 cable that came with the monitor and it's been solid since... here's hoping I solved it. The issue has never arisen when using an older non-2.1 HDMI cable because my other monitors are only 1440p.

My hunch is that my PC can detect what the monitor can support but has no idea what cable is being used, which enables idiot users like me to make a mismatch. It then got choked out when the bandwidth got exceeded and it couldn't compress enough to get through the 1.4a display port socket.

Again, apparently it's Nvidia cards that apparently struggle with DSC turning on and off (i.e. when alt tabbing out of games).

Thought I'd mention it if that's helpful to anyone.

TLDR: I didn't break the card with the glue :D
Did changing the cable fix your coil whine too? That's crazy to think about
 

Nitefly

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Did changing the cable fix your coil whine too? That's crazy to think about

No - there was nil effect on coil whine from changing the cable.

As mentioned, the whine was never terrible anyway. More of a minor annoyance, some people probably wouldn't notice. I can't say I've been bothered recently so maybe it did have a minor effect, hard to say.

I ended up going to glue mod because I was already intending to play around with swapping the stock fans for Noctua ones.... it ended up looking pretty cool IMO :)



 

Solore

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This tread and the guide in the first post is absolutely not about using hot glue. It's about SuperGlue otherwise known as cyanoacrylate glue. Isopropyl Alcohol will help you get all that crap off your card. Be careful or you'll damage it.
I used regular super glue, and after it didn't work, I decided to try glue from a glue gun.
 
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I used regular super glue, and after it didn't work, I decided to try glue from a glue gun.
Those photo's show a very bad mess. Hot Glue is never a good idea for application on electronics PCBs. Hot Glue can have it's uses for PC case parts, but never directly on PCBs and electronic parts.
 
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