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The power plug get too hot

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just because a human feels pain at 50-60°C does not mean plastic or hardware does.
:kookoo:

I always check power connectors - at least when newly attached.

The reason why is to make sure they are NOT getting hot or even too warm. Or warm at all, for that matter. Power cords and thus their connectors should be sized properly to take the expected load (current flow) just to ensure they don't overheat.

If you think this is silly, think again. Then go check all your connectors. If they are warm to the touch, investigate further.
 
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:kookoo:

I always check power connectors - at least when newly attached.

The reason why is to make sure they are NOT getting hot or even too warm. Or warm at all, for that matter. Power cords and thus their connectors should be sized properly to take the expected load (current flow) just to ensure they don't overheat.

If you think this is silly, think again. Then go check all your connectors. If they are warm to the touch, investigate further.
i have built a hundred PCs, have a whole rented storage unit full of hardware had at least 30different PSUs and i never even came to the idea to "touch my PSUs power connectors"...
must be a imaginary problem.
 

qxp

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i have built a hundred PCs, have a whole rented storage unit full of hardware had at least 30different PSUs and i never even came to the idea to "touch my PSUs power connectors"...
must be a imaginary problem.
Look it is like a CPU - if your heatsink is too hot to touch the CPU is likely throttling. The power plugs don't know how to throttle.

But you are correct in that it is quite rare for the power cords or power plugs to overheat, as they normally come matched to the power supply. The few situations I have seen it happen this was actually the fault of the outlet which had poor contact. Maybe the OP changed the outlet they were using after replacing the PSU and now they see the plug heat up ?
 
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i have built a hundred PCs, have a whole rented storage unit full of hardware had at least 30different PSUs
Then I won't hold your obvious youth and lack of experience against you!

For sure, we are NOT talking about the DC power connectors on the output side of the PSU. This is about the PSU's AC power cable where it plugs into the wall - or in this case, into a power strip.

Have you never heard of overloading a power outlet? This is particularly a problem with power strips and extension cords and even more of a problem this time of year.

Having said that, when one has been around electronics long enough, it is likely they have run into a device that is faulty and drawing excessive current that may go unnoticed, until too late. One way to check that is to feel the power cable at the outlet. If you don't ever do that, I recommend you make it a habit and hopefully, you will never feel a hot plug.
 
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I didn't notice if anyone asked if you are using the supplied power cable that came with the new PSU, or if you just changed PSU and plugged in to your old power cable?
Asking because when I last built with a bigger PSU the supplied one was noticeably thicker than the old PSUs supplied cable.

And then like the other test with direct to wall and then with a new or known good extension 3-5socket (Don't put too much power through one just because it has more sockets)
 

brutalame

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Probably a bad contact between the power cord and the power outlet. Try using another plug of the power outlet or even better, another power outlet.
 
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Almost had a fire. Ends where secure and clean. Couple guys I know at another tech site determined the wires had internal damage, possible kink or tight bend.

2x gpus and 13700K during TimeSpy load, guessing 800 to 900w load. 290x OC is no joke, easily 300w cards.

20230502_133255.jpg
2910435.png
 

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I have been using the power cord that came with my old 19" WEGA monitor. 85lb beast..

That cord has been powering my personal PC since 2006 or so.. everything else just feels cheap :D
 

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Hi

I changed my PSU from several months to Silver Ston 1200W but recently I noticed that the power plug get worm until few days ago when I spent more time on games I found out that plug become too hot to touch but fortunately the plastic plug did not melt . I have card RX 6800 XT is there a way to prevent this heat for safety or this is normal ?

Thanks
Did you use the brand new cord that came with the psu?

Almost had a fire. Ends where secure and clean. Couple guys I know at another tech site determined the wires had internal damage, possible kink or tight bend.

2x gpus and 13700K during TimeSpy load, guessing 800 to 900w load. 290x OC is no joke, easily 300w cards.

View attachment 376255
View attachment 376256
Thats a first for me to see that
 
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The electrical installation is obviously inadequate and operating in these conditions is very hazardous. Look, I'm gonna give it to you straight, you're one step away from completing a Darwin Award you will not soon forget. Don't count on a breaker to stop a thermal overload, it most likely will result in a fire. Don't place your and other people's lives at risk because you wanna save a buck.

Stop using cheap power strips. Don't overload the outlet by plugging everything into it, spread the load across different outlets, preferably outlets that are connected to different wires and breakers. Make sure any cords are capable of handling the amount of current required to operate your computer. If the electrical installation itself is inadequate, please consult a certified electrician. Don't be irresponsible because you want to save a buck, you should take this issue very seriously for your and your loved ones' safety.

I have been using the power cord that came with my old 19" WEGA monitor. 85lb beast..

That cord has been powering my personal PC since 2006 or so.. everything else just feels cheap :D

I power my PC with the cable that came with one of my original 2006 PS3 consoles. Dummy thicc cable :eek::D
 
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That looks a little inadequate.

Looks like 3 lamps would get it warm..
Amps or lamps? A quick google shows it to be a Makel (Istanbul) product rated at 250V / 16A. There are some pretty big lamps available over 1KW so I guess you meant amps :D

Not sure if the OP means the plug for the mains extension block or the plug for the PSU. Mains socket / plug contacts can become corroded and offer poor contact resulting in heating. Depending how bad it is there may be signs of arcing on the pins, socket contacts are usually hidden from view. Might hear some crackling when getting worse though likely PC would shutdown due to fluctuations. Could possibly be faulty or underrated plug and cable either PSU or mains extension block depending what the OP meant. Sometimes a picture speaks a thousand words, especially if a translator is being used.
 
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I've always utilized my wall outlet with one plug going direct to PSU, and the other plug has the power strip attached for all the ancillary devices like monitor, speakers, etc.
 
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A buddy of mine ordered a seasonic psu from a Chinese seller on Newegg and the power cord melted he caught it before it did any damage thankfully.
 

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A buddy of mine ordered a seasonic psu from a Chinese seller on Newegg and the power cord melted he caught it before it did any damage thankfully.
The one that came with my EVGA felt like it was made out of the cheapest plastic money can buy. And it was a bit stiff like it had old chicken coop wire in it.
 

AsRock

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I have been using the power cord that came with my old 19" WEGA monitor. 85lb beast..

That cord has been powering my personal PC since 2006 or so.. everything else just feels cheap :D

I still use the one from a NAD amp i used to own, way thicker than any that come with PSU's.
 
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A buddy of mine ordered a seasonic psu from a Chinese seller on Newegg and the power cord melted he caught it before it did any damage thankfully.
The one that came with my EVGA felt like it was made out of the cheapest plastic money can buy.

Most of the big PSU brands sell supply models with "universal", auto-adjusting input voltage support. This then involves one design, one manufacturing process and one almost identical model number. The only difference is the power cord the PSU comes with - depending on the country/global region the supply will be sold in. The packaging will typically be printed with country/region specific text too.

And this is actually very smart as it means much less expense for logistics (parts inventory, design, warehousing etc.). And typically, the included power cord is more than adequate for the job.

There are exceptions, of course. These cords are mass produced by the 10s of 1000s, perhaps millions and NO WAY is each tested for quality control. This level of production means each power cord might have cost $0.25 to make. Okay, maybe $0.50 for the better ones, but cheap, regardless. But still, typically, if the supply is packaged and marketed for the US or the UK, for examples, and incudes applicable power cables for the US or UK respectively, those cables are typically well made - or at least, not junk.

The big problem comes with these HUGE on-line retailers that sell on the global market. Note, I've seen this with monitors too. eBay, Amazon, Alibaba or Newegg buys 100,000 Seasonic PSUs from Seasonic. These PSUs may originally be marketed for Germany, for example. But a Canadian customer buys it so Alibaba throws in an "aftermarket" Canadian power cable. Only this cable cost $0.15 to make, or even less! :( And this one is cheap in every definition of the word, "cheap" ($0.21 each when buying >5000). Interesting how they call that a 220VAC cable - clearly it is not. :twitch: :kookoo::twitch:

So yeah, I always feel the plugs at the outlet with new power cables. Even the better cables are cheap, barely adequate for the demand, and likely never tested for quality assurance or regulation compliance. Heck - they may even sport counterfeit UL, CE, etc. certification labels. :(

Anyway, I too have been reusing power cords from older equipment - not just because they obviously are more robust, but also because they tend to be more flexible. That is, the insulation appears to have more soft, flexible rubber in it than those cheap, rigid, plastic-insulation $0.21 cables that have been folded and pressed into the smallest compact size possible - makes me wonder why they even bother to tie-wrap it.
 
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Looks like it would have that good ol fake china copper in it.

Chineseium.

Almost had a fire. Ends where secure and clean. Couple guys I know at another tech site determined the wires had internal damage, possible kink or tight bend.

2x gpus and 13700K during TimeSpy load, guessing 800 to 900w load. 290x OC is no joke, easily 300w cards.

View attachment 376255
View attachment 376256

Does the C13 say 10A/250V?

My setup is a dedicated 120V/20A circuit, 1500VA UPS with AVR, then an APC Surge Arrest outlet strip with PC, monitor, printer, modem, router plugged into.
 
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Chineseium.



Does the C13 say 10A/250V?

My setup is a dedicated 120V/20A circuit, 1500VA UPS with AVR, then an APC Surge Arrest outlet strip with PC, monitor, printer, modem, router plugged into.
Yeah, had the correct rating 10a 120v. Circuit is rated 15a, but unlike most people with breakers, I have old school screw in fuses that I can upgrade. But the wire from 1965 isn't rated for more than 15 with the kitchen as the only exception at 20a, most of the house is 10a fused circuits.
 
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I recently went to HomeDepot to fix a hose connector; the replacement was cast aluminum colored to look like brass. I actually found a brass version in another part of the store; one really needs to watch out these days.
hose connector.jpg
 
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the replacement was cast aluminum colored to look like brass.
You sure it is "colored" and not "plated" with brass.

My bet is it is plated and there are legitimate reasons for that. The brass adds strength. Aluminum surfaces corrodes adding significant amounts of friction making connecting and disconnecting other fittings very difficult. That corrosion makes getting a good leakproof seal more difficult. And aluminum is cheaper.

That said, what does that have to do with electrical power plugs getting hot?
 
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i have built a hundred PCs, have a whole rented storage unit full of hardware had at least 30different PSUs and i never even came to the idea to "touch my PSUs power connectors"...
must be a imaginary problem.
I had one melt in mining days because the gauge was crappy. It's certainly not made up.

Thankfully the rig just powered off without starting a fire.
 
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Thanks guys for advices . I found a plug loose so I insert it right also I got rid off couple of converters from 3 pins. Now no heat but I also ordered a new power strip that has several protection layers.

I wish all to be safe and Merry Christmas.
 
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