• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.

Possible Bending in 12700F. Any Cure? Opinion Please.

Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
261 (0.06/day)
Location
Assam (India)
System Name myLastOne
Processor Intel Core i7 12700F @ PL1=PL2=150 Watts
Motherboard MSI B660M MAG Mortar
Cooling Deepcool AK400 + CM Sickleflow 120mm (Push|Pull)
Memory 2x 16GB Crucial Ballistix 3600MHz 16-18-18-38
Video Card(s) Asus TUF RTX 3060 Ti Gaming OC
Storage TeamGroup MP33 Pro M2 1TB + (1+2)TB Seagate + 2TB WD
Display(s) BenQ EW2775ZH
Case CM Elite 371 USB3 With Arctic F14 (Side+Front) + Arctic Bionix F120 (Back) + CM 120mm (Top)
Audio Device(s) Realtek ALC 1200 + Swans D1010-IV
Power Supply MSI MPG A750GF
Mouse Logitech G102 LightSync
Keyboard Logitech G100
VR HMD None
Software Windows 11 PRO
Dear, Techpowerup forumers,

I have owned my new system for two years now. It consists of an i7 12700F on an MSI B650M Mortar motherboard with a cooler, Deepcool AK400 with another CM SickleFlow fan in push-pull config.

My PL1=PL2 are both set at 150W. My CPU temps. used to be really low. Even with Prime95 max heat preset it would be under 74°C; even if I turn my room into a hot box all fans off, ventilators,windows and doors closed at noon in the harshest summer day possible with stress test for 50mins! My boost used to be really good at ~ 4.9GHz (Now just 3.8GHz). But of late my temperature by 12-15°C for same PL1,2 settings and no bios update. I suspect a bent cpu (?) Here are pictures after disassembly:
CPU:
cpu1.jpg


Heatsink base:
hs1.jpg


What do you think? No, I do not have any socket mods installed, CPU looks ok, flat. But today after watching this very short video, I am not sure, think the left side of the longest side where the Intel etching starts maybe is a bit bent (not sure). Dont have any special equipment. Used a clear plastic scale just seems ok and not sure at the same time.

IF I assume my CPU is BENT, but just a little bit. Can it be saved/repaired diy. Say I use the Thermalright CPU bracket, now, would it straighten the bent overtime? Any other way?

Thank you and Please, help!
 
Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
2,579 (0.38/day)
Location
People's Republic of America
System Name It's just a computer
Processor i9-14900K Direct Die
Motherboard MSI Z790 ACE MAX
Cooling 4X D5T Vario, 2X HK Res, 3X Nemesis GTR560, NF-A14-iPPC3000PWM, NF-A14-iPPC2000PWM, IceMan DD
Memory TEAMGROUP FFXD548G8000HC38EDC01
Video Card(s) MSI 4070 Ti Super w/Alphacool Eisblock Aurora RTX 4070TI Ventus with Backplate :13724
Storage Samsung 990 PRO 1TB M.2
Display(s) LG 32GK650F
Case Custom open frame chassis
Audio Device(s) Auzentech X-Meridian 7.1 2G/Z-5500
Power Supply Seasonic Prime PX-1300
Mouse Logitech MX700
Keyboard Logitech LX700
Software Win11PRO
TIM is dried out, probably just needs a thorough cleaning and new application.
 
Joined
Jul 25, 2006
Messages
13,376 (1.99/day)
Location
Nebraska, USA
System Name Brightworks Systems BWS-6 E-IV
Processor Intel Core i5-6600 @ 3.9GHz
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 Rev 1.0
Cooling Quality case, 2 x Fractal Design 140mm fans, stock CPU HSF
Memory 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 Corsair Vengeance
Video Card(s) EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti 4Gb GDDR5
Storage Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD
Display(s) Samsung S24E650BW LED x 2
Case Fractal Design Define R4
Power Supply EVGA Supernova 550W G2 Gold
Mouse Logitech M190
Keyboard Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5050
Software W10 Pro 64-bit
First, it is not "bent". Bent would suggest damage - even a crease in the metal. It may be slightly curved in a concave (inward) or convex (outward) manner, but not bent.

Second, this would not happen years after use - unless the CPU was removed and subject to some extreme physical abuse. So if you have a concave or convex IHS, it came that way from the factory.

Third, you could "lap" the surface but frankly, the very purpose for TIM (thermal interface material) is to fill tiny imperfections in the mating surfaces of the IHS and heatsink to displace and prevent any insulating air from getting in there. So I agree with Arcutcas and you should thoroughly clean the mating surfaces and re-apply a fresh new layer of quality TIM.

BTW - you do not need to replace TIM just because it is x number of years old, even if it has dried out. The ONLY reason TIM comes in a liquified format is so we can squeeze it out of the tube and spread it around evenly. If it dries, the solid materials remain behind and are still doing their jobs.

TIM can easily last 10, 15 years or even longer AS LONG AS the cured bond is not broken. So the only time TIM needs to be replaced is when the cured bond is broken, allowing air in. And since TIM should NEVER be reused, any time you remove the cooler, the surfaces need to be thoroughly cleaned and a new application applied.

Note the most common reasons for a broken bond is abuse (bouncing the computer off the floor or rough handling during transport) or, ironically, by the user twisting the cooler too hard to see if loose, breaking it loose in the process. :rolleyes:

Having said all that, unless you broke the bond somehow, I suspect something else is happening here. While it is true the efficiency of TIM decreases over time, it typically is only by 3 - 5°C. Not 12 - 15°C. And so a fresh new layer of TIM will typically only improve cooling by that 3 - 5°C.

And to the point, if you "need" those 3 - 5°C to prevent crossing over thermal protection thresholds, you are already too close, clearly indicating another problem. Case cooling is the most common cause - assuming default clocks and voltages.

Are all case fans spinning properly? CPU fan? Do you have good flow of cool air through the case? Is the case interior, vents and filters clean of heat trapping dust? Do you have good cable management?
 
Joined
Nov 19, 2005
Messages
783 (0.11/day)
Location
GA, USA
System Name Gamer
Processor Ryzen 7 5800X3D
Motherboard Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite WIFI
Cooling Apogee XL, MCR360, MCP655, Micro-rez
Memory 2x16GB G.Skill DDR4-3600 CL16
Video Card(s) Red Dragon RX 6800 XT
Storage WD SN850 1TB & SN750 1TB
Display(s) LG 32GK650F-B 32" 1440p 144Hz
Case Rocketfish (Lian Li) e-ATX
Audio Device(s) Harman Kardon HK695 2.1
Power Supply Seasonic Focus GM-750
Mouse HP Gaming wired
Keyboard Logitech G110 wired
VR HMD HP WMR 1440^2
Software Win10 Pro 64bit
Doesn't the socket tend to flex on LGA1700? That's why there is a contact frame for the socket. Maybe one of those will help prove better cooler contact to the IHS.

Sorry for the US Amazon link, I see you are in India.
 
Joined
Dec 25, 2020
Messages
7,090 (4.84/day)
Location
São Paulo, Brazil
System Name "Icy Resurrection"
Processor 13th Gen Intel Core i9-13900KS Special Edition
Motherboard ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Apex Encore
Cooling Noctua NH-D15S upgraded with 2x NF-F12 iPPC-3000 fans and Honeywell PTM7950 TIM
Memory 32 GB G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB F5-6800J3445G16GX2-TZ5RK @ 7600 MT/s 36-44-44-52-96 1.4V
Video Card(s) ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX™ 4080 16GB GDDR6X White OC Edition
Storage 500 GB WD Black SN750 SE NVMe SSD + 4 TB WD Red Plus WD40EFPX HDD
Display(s) 55-inch LG G3 OLED
Case Pichau Mancer CV500 White Edition
Audio Device(s) Apple USB-C + Sony MDR-V7 headphones
Power Supply EVGA 1300 G2 1.3kW 80+ Gold
Mouse Microsoft Classic Intellimouse
Keyboard IBM Model M type 1391405 (distribución española)
Software Windows 11 IoT Enterprise LTSC 24H2
Benchmark Scores I pulled a Qiqi~
If the chip itself doesn't look bent, then bending issue did not occur. Buy a BCF anyway - it's $10 or so and peace of mind is worth it. The LGA1700 (and presumably, 1851 as well) ILM is dogshit. I use Thermalright's - Thermal Grizzly's also works, buy whatever you can find cheaper (or faster locally).

Once the CPU is physically damaged, there is no going back.
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
194 (0.13/day)
Processor Core i7-12700
Motherboard MSI B660 MAG Mortar
Cooling Noctua NH-D15
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3600 CL16 @ 3466 MT/s
Video Card(s) AMD RX 6800
Storage Too many to list, lol
Display(s) Gigabyte M27Q
Case Fractal Design Define R5
Power Supply Corsair RM750x
Mouse Too many to list, lol
Keyboard Keychron low profile
Software Fedora, Mint
I've seen no credible suggestion that the default LGA 1700 retention mechanism causes direct physical damage to the CPU. It can warp the IHS enough to reduce cold plate contact, thus raising temperatures, but that isn't quite the same as bending the CPU. In the OP's case, I would assume something else went wrong; maybe your heatsink was slightly loose to begin with and your dog bumped into the machine. Maybe a fan is on the fritz. Maybe your fan curve got screwed up somehow, or your power limit settings changed.

There's no harm in grabbing a Thermalright contact frame now that you have to reseat/repaste the CPU anyway. They're certainly affordable, adding one probably will help a bit with cooling. But aftermarket contact frames aren't really supposed to address some sort of critical physical threat to the health of your CPU; they're designed for people looking to eke out every last bit of thermal headroom. IIRC, derbaur himself (owner of ThermalGrizzly, which sells contact frames) said that most people shouldn't bother.

I'd guess that if you put the machine back together correctly, double check all the fans, double check your BIOS settings, and clean any intake filters, you'll see temps get back in line.
 

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
42,781 (6.69/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
Get a heatsink with a baseplate
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
261 (0.06/day)
Location
Assam (India)
System Name myLastOne
Processor Intel Core i7 12700F @ PL1=PL2=150 Watts
Motherboard MSI B660M MAG Mortar
Cooling Deepcool AK400 + CM Sickleflow 120mm (Push|Pull)
Memory 2x 16GB Crucial Ballistix 3600MHz 16-18-18-38
Video Card(s) Asus TUF RTX 3060 Ti Gaming OC
Storage TeamGroup MP33 Pro M2 1TB + (1+2)TB Seagate + 2TB WD
Display(s) BenQ EW2775ZH
Case CM Elite 371 USB3 With Arctic F14 (Side+Front) + Arctic Bionix F120 (Back) + CM 120mm (Top)
Audio Device(s) Realtek ALC 1200 + Swans D1010-IV
Power Supply MSI MPG A750GF
Mouse Logitech G102 LightSync
Keyboard Logitech G100
VR HMD None
Software Windows 11 PRO
TIM is dried out, probably just needs a thorough cleaning and new application.
Might try only after cpu bracket arrives. Really afraid now. If there is very little bending will the bracket fix it? Any other way? Please read my reply to Mr. Bill_Bright for more details. Thank you.
First, it is not "bent". Bent would suggest damage - even a crease in the metal. It may be slightly curved in a concave (inward) or convex (outward) manner, but not bent.
There is no physical damage, but I just have a clear plastic scale/ruler.
I included a tomshardware linked video, just 22 secs (please look at it). The proper way is to put the cpu back into the socket of the mother and then use an illuminated source in the back and on the front a straight opaque object is used to see if there is deformity and light passes through. I was not able to take off the motherboard. But tested with just the cpu put onto a straight place, using phone torch and using a thick card that came with my TUF graphics card. Seems like little arch is the on the extreme left side of the cpu (concave, not tested on the socket, reminding!). Not that much in the video, but less than half, very little. If I do this (both) centre to centre and both diagonals no light comes out. Really confuse??? Its normal? Like you said. I also tested on the extreme right of the cpu (long side) this time no light comes out. Normal? Also I had to use opaque card assumed straight. I do not have calibrated metal scale at the moment. What do you think?

Second, this would not happen years after use - unless the CPU was removed and subject to some extreme physical abuse.
No, never! I never rough used. I treat my system like a newborn baby. Extremely aware of these things.This is the first time I have removed this cpu because no other software solutions were working.

Second, this would not happen years after use - unless the CPU was removed and subject to some extreme physical abuse. So if you have a concave or convex IHS, it came that way from the factory.
My did. I always monitor my cpu and other components temps regularly. Because, previously I had a Haswell locked quad core i5. This is my most expensive setup ever, I am not getting another. I went from 4 cores to 12 cores hdd to nvme ssd. I was really paranoid of damage. Chcked regularly only in August of previous after checking for 1 year, across every season did I stop.
Secondly, you forget one thing 12th gen had/has this bending/deforming issue (esp.(less) i7,(more) i9). Thermalright bracket was invented 3-4 months after I assembled my system (?) Atleast not available at all after invention for 2 months. I also did not pay much attention because my DC AK 400 cooler was lightweight enough.

Having said all that, unless you broke the bond somehow, I suspect something else is happening here. While it is true the efficiency of TIM decreases over time, it typically is only by 3 - 5°C. Not 12 - 15°C. And so a fresh new layer of TIM will typically only improve cooling by that 3 - 5°C.

And to the point, if you "need" those 3 - 5°C to prevent crossing over thermal protection thresholds, you are already too close, clearly indicating another problem. Case cooling is the most common cause - assuming default clocks and voltages.

Are all case fans spinning properly? CPU fan? Do you have good flow of cool air through the case? Is the case interior, vents and filters clean of heat trapping dust? Do you have good cable management?
Firstly: Yes, drastic change in temp. Also, 1GHz less boost. These are drastic changes. TIM used was Kingpin Kpx (already 2 yrs old when applied. Also, please notice there's hardly any tim on the hs base. Never happened before removing cpu.
Secondly: Yes case is clean all fans working properly tested really well continuously for a years. What do you suggest, now?
These are really drastic changes, i have not even put the cpu back out of fear. Its been 8 days now.
If I get the cpu bracket now will it cure any bending (assumed there is bending, yes), reduce temp overtime any other way? Or no hope left. Please, reply. Thank you for replying thoroughly, you always do. Thanks again.

Doesn't the socket tend to flex on LGA1700? That's why there is a contact frame for the socket. Maybe one of those will help prove better cooler contact to the IHS.

Sorry for the US Amazon link, I see you are in India.
It wasn't invented when I assembled my PC. Please, do not apologise.
If there is very little bending will the bracket fix it? Any other way? Do you know of diy repair. Please read my reply to Mr. Bill_Bright for more details. Thank you.
If the chip itself doesn't look bent, then bending issue did not occur. Buy a BCF anyway - it's $10 or so and peace of mind is worth it. The LGA1700 (and presumably, 1851 as well) ILM is dogshit. I use Thermalright's - Thermal Grizzly's also works, buy whatever you can find cheaper (or faster locally).

Once the CPU is physically damaged, there is no going back.
Please read all my replies to Mr. Bill_Bright for more details and please reply. Is there no way to un-bend or mitigate for just a little, very little bend on one side maybe (cannot be sure now, unless calibrated scale arrives). No other way, none, to save the cpu? no physical damage cracks or anything to the pcb or anything! Thank you.
I've seen no credible suggestion that the default LGA 1700 retention mechanism causes direct physical damage to the CPU. It can warp the IHS enough to reduce cold plate contact, thus raising temperatures, but that isn't quite the same as bending the CPU. In the OP's case, I would assume something else went wrong; maybe your heatsink was slightly loose to begin with and your dog bumped into the machine. Maybe a fan is on the fritz. Maybe your fan curve got screwed up somehow, or your power limit settings changed.

There's no harm in grabbing a Thermalright contact frame now that you have to reseat/repaste the CPU anyway. They're certainly affordable, adding one probably will help a bit with cooling. But aftermarket contact frames aren't really supposed to address some sort of critical physical threat to the health of your CPU; they're designed for people looking to eke out every last bit of thermal headroom. IIRC, derbaur himself (owner of ThermalGrizzly, which sells contact frames) said that most people shouldn't bother.

I'd guess that if you put the machine back together correctly, double check all the fans, double check your BIOS settings, and clean any intake filters, you'll see temps get back in line.
Please, read my replies to Mr. Bill_Bright to get all answers and more info. Please do not mind. Thank you for thorough reply.
Is there no way to un-bend or mitigate for just a little, very little bend on one side maybe (cannot be sure now, unless calibrated scale arrives). No other way, none? no physical damage cracks or anything to the pcb or anything! Thank you, again. Please reply, if any solution found.

Get a heatsink with a baseplate
Mr. eidaraman, of you had read it already, then I apologise. But could you read all my replies to Mr. Bill_Bright, for more information and reply back. Please .
 
Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
2,579 (0.38/day)
Location
People's Republic of America
System Name It's just a computer
Processor i9-14900K Direct Die
Motherboard MSI Z790 ACE MAX
Cooling 4X D5T Vario, 2X HK Res, 3X Nemesis GTR560, NF-A14-iPPC3000PWM, NF-A14-iPPC2000PWM, IceMan DD
Memory TEAMGROUP FFXD548G8000HC38EDC01
Video Card(s) MSI 4070 Ti Super w/Alphacool Eisblock Aurora RTX 4070TI Ventus with Backplate :13724
Storage Samsung 990 PRO 1TB M.2
Display(s) LG 32GK650F
Case Custom open frame chassis
Audio Device(s) Auzentech X-Meridian 7.1 2G/Z-5500
Power Supply Seasonic Prime PX-1300
Mouse Logitech MX700
Keyboard Logitech LX700
Software Win11PRO
Perhaps the weight of the cooler (I presume motherboard is vertical, and cooler is horizontal) is causing the motherboard to flex slightly?

A backplate, such as the Heatkiller will alleviate it.
 
Joined
May 24, 2023
Messages
948 (1.62/day)
That the CPUs are bending in the LGA 1700 socket is a well known fact. You can see a lot of information in this thread:


You may want to renew the paste and then mount a cooler which has a bulge on the base, that fits better in the CPU shape. The coolers with direct contact heatpipes tend to be flat and will have a thicker layer of paste between the base and the CPU heatspreader.
 

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
42,781 (6.69/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
That the CPUs are bending in the LGA 1700 socket is a well known fact. You can see a lot of information in this thread:


You may want to renew the paste and then mount a cooler which has a bulge on the base, that fits better in the CPU shape. The coolers with direct contact heatpipes tend to be flat and will have a thicker layer of paste between the base and the CPU heatspreader.
Wow and i mentioned earlier about using a heatsink with a base plate...
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2023
Messages
1,507 (3.68/day)
Location
Nowhere
System Name I don't name my rig
Processor 14700K
Motherboard Asus TUF Z790
Cooling Air/water/DryIce
Memory DDR5 G.Skill Z5 RGB 6000mhz C36
Video Card(s) RTX 4070 Super
Storage 980 Pro
Display(s) Some LED 1080P TV
Case Open bench
Audio Device(s) Some Old Sherwood stereo and old cabinet speakers
Power Supply Corsair 1050w HX series
Mouse Razor Mamba Tournament Edition
Keyboard Logitech G910
VR HMD Quest 2
Software Windows
Benchmark Scores Max Freq 13700K 6.7ghz DryIce Max Freq 14700K 7.0ghz DryIce Max all time Freq FX-8300 7685mhz LN2
Oh you guys know me.
Tell this what I see.
This has no bending!

Issues

1. Used 2 years old shelf paste
2. application looks too thick
3. mounting pressure looks low (unsure, maybe just bad paste)
4. dirt and dust built up around the cpu
5. close up pictures to hide the dirt??
6. AK400 cooler is inadequate. 3.8ghz would be all I'd expect

Cures

1. New paste
2. apply several times practice different applications of paste
3. double check mounting pressure for a week after first mount.
4. Periodic cleaning will help prevent the build up of earth bacteria
5. pictures say 1000 words. more the merrier
6. Larger cooler to dissipate 253w of power OR sell it and get a 12400F instead. (this would put money in your pocket)

:p
 

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
42,781 (6.69/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
Oh you guys know me.
Tell this what I see.
This has no bending!

Issues

1. Used 2 years old shelf paste
2. application looks too thick
3. mounting pressure looks low (unsure, maybe just bad paste)
4. dirt and dust built up around the cpu
5. close up pictures to hide the dirt??
6. AK400 cooler is inadequate. 3.8ghz would be all I'd expect

Cures

1. New paste
2. apply several times practice different applications of paste
3. double check mounting pressure for a week after first mount.
4. Periodic cleaning will help prevent the build up of earth bacteria
5. pictures say 1000 words. more the merrier
6. Larger cooler to dissipate 253w of power OR sell it and get a 12400F instead. (this would put money in your pocket)

:p
My sig rig I had initially warped, i backed off some and this was before first boot ever, no warp no problems.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2023
Messages
1,507 (3.68/day)
Location
Nowhere
System Name I don't name my rig
Processor 14700K
Motherboard Asus TUF Z790
Cooling Air/water/DryIce
Memory DDR5 G.Skill Z5 RGB 6000mhz C36
Video Card(s) RTX 4070 Super
Storage 980 Pro
Display(s) Some LED 1080P TV
Case Open bench
Audio Device(s) Some Old Sherwood stereo and old cabinet speakers
Power Supply Corsair 1050w HX series
Mouse Razor Mamba Tournament Edition
Keyboard Logitech G910
VR HMD Quest 2
Software Windows
Benchmark Scores Max Freq 13700K 6.7ghz DryIce Max Freq 14700K 7.0ghz DryIce Max all time Freq FX-8300 7685mhz LN2
My sig rig I had initially warped, i backed off some and this was before first boot ever, no warp no problems.
What warped?
My GPUs warp without a stand. Never seen an issue from it.
Motherboard, I've seen the CPU pull away from the contacts (LGA = no post)
IHS plate, had to install into a vice and hit it with 32oz hammer to bend it. :)
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
261 (0.06/day)
Location
Assam (India)
System Name myLastOne
Processor Intel Core i7 12700F @ PL1=PL2=150 Watts
Motherboard MSI B660M MAG Mortar
Cooling Deepcool AK400 + CM Sickleflow 120mm (Push|Pull)
Memory 2x 16GB Crucial Ballistix 3600MHz 16-18-18-38
Video Card(s) Asus TUF RTX 3060 Ti Gaming OC
Storage TeamGroup MP33 Pro M2 1TB + (1+2)TB Seagate + 2TB WD
Display(s) BenQ EW2775ZH
Case CM Elite 371 USB3 With Arctic F14 (Side+Front) + Arctic Bionix F120 (Back) + CM 120mm (Top)
Audio Device(s) Realtek ALC 1200 + Swans D1010-IV
Power Supply MSI MPG A750GF
Mouse Logitech G102 LightSync
Keyboard Logitech G100
VR HMD None
Software Windows 11 PRO
First, it is not "bent". Bent would suggest damage - even a crease in the metal. It may be slightly curved in a concave (inward) or convex (outward) manner, but not bent.

Second, this would not happen years after use - unless the CPU was removed and subject to some extreme physical abuse. So if you have a concave or convex IHS, it came that way from the factory.
Seems, you may be right afterall (?) The slightest of slight bend is the on the upper side of cpu ihs (the shorter side of the rectangle on one side.) Yes concave but very slight, you cannot feel it but see it in certain conditions. Never paid any attention (or measured), never been an issue since 12th gen. Can manufacturing defect cause this? Arent cpu manufacturing by default is "perfect" bleeding edge cannot be copied top-notch?
1. Used 2 years old shelf paste
2. application looks too thick
3. mounting pressure looks low (unsure, maybe just bad paste)
4. dirt and dust built up around the cpu
5. close up pictures to hide the dirt??
6. AK400 cooler is inadequate. 3.8ghz would be all I'd expect
1. Its Kingpin KPx, very well kept.
2. No, very thin, I am not the verge guy, I apply little and spread and spread and spead and spread.
3. Mounting pressure perfect. Bad paste, possible.
4. I am from a dusty and very humid place.
5. Close up pic to show cpu detail (cpu + paste). Also, very bad picture taker.
6. Techpowerup, did test AK400, very good (esp on intel). Also, Pl1=Pl2=150w. And it worked before. ...And its an i7 12700"F" (Max, 180w). Tested from pl1=pl2=95w, until I was comfortable with perf and temp. Why would I lie? Or are you insinuating that I did? Please, I would never. Dont do that please.

Oh you guys know me.
Tell this what I see.
This has no bending!
You might be right (?) I became depressed even after the brackets came I didn't reinstall. Did not use PC, all this time. Only day before yesterday that I did. Tested p95 with hw info on 2021 oct version Windows 11 and latest. Temp. at 63C (how much it will increase during summer dont know). But temp is not the issue now, just boost! Stuck at 3.8ghz! If I remember correctly I did a bios update prev year november, I think. That might have messed up, maybe? Cannot say. Now when temp fixed, tested on different os versions and different p95 versions used, culprit seems the new bios, wouldnt you say so too?
I could go back but ups acting up dont know whats up, batteries are 7mnths old only. Repair possiple only next month. Besides I am not going out.
What do you suggest I do (concerning the cpu boost issue)?
I tried putting pl1=pl2=180w but no change in temp or boost. Earlier in 2021 when I tested it it reached 87C in 3mins boost 4.89ghz. I stopped the test. Now no change.
But when I reset bios boost increases but only to 4.1ghz and temp. actually drops 1 degrees. Can the bios update cause manual setting pl1 and pl2 values to become redundant? Is that even possible? But why? What purpose does it serve?
Do you have any idea?

@ShrimpBrime Would you like to see all settings of my uefi bios?

Sorry for wasting everyones time for 2 months!! Only re-assembled day before yesterday.
 
Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Messages
2,041 (0.63/day)
Processor Intel i5 8400
Motherboard Asus Prime H370M-Plus/CSM
Cooling Scythe Big Shuriken & Noctua NF-A15 HS-PWM chromax.black.swap
Memory 8GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LT DDR4-2400
Video Card(s) ROG-STRIX-GTX1060-O6G-GAMING
Storage 1TB 980 Pro
Display(s) Samsung UN55KU6300F
Case Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 3
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III 750w
Software W11 Pro
Every heatsink is unique while every model has a fairly specific profile it ground to. At least you are chasing the enthusiast route to solving this with an open mind.

Past hardware concerns you have to accommodate what a mess Intel processor behaviors are with mobo and chipset firmware as wildcards + OS as a multiplier. What your latest description sounds like is a need to reconsider the newly shuffled deck.
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
261 (0.06/day)
Location
Assam (India)
System Name myLastOne
Processor Intel Core i7 12700F @ PL1=PL2=150 Watts
Motherboard MSI B660M MAG Mortar
Cooling Deepcool AK400 + CM Sickleflow 120mm (Push|Pull)
Memory 2x 16GB Crucial Ballistix 3600MHz 16-18-18-38
Video Card(s) Asus TUF RTX 3060 Ti Gaming OC
Storage TeamGroup MP33 Pro M2 1TB + (1+2)TB Seagate + 2TB WD
Display(s) BenQ EW2775ZH
Case CM Elite 371 USB3 With Arctic F14 (Side+Front) + Arctic Bionix F120 (Back) + CM 120mm (Top)
Audio Device(s) Realtek ALC 1200 + Swans D1010-IV
Power Supply MSI MPG A750GF
Mouse Logitech G102 LightSync
Keyboard Logitech G100
VR HMD None
Software Windows 11 PRO
.........What your latest description sounds like is a need to reconsider the newly shuffled deck.
Sorry, English is my 4th language. I am slow, sorry. If I get it right, you are saying here is I have deviated (or changed completely) from my original post and we/ (you?) will have to look at my problem from a new
perspective, right? With also a little sour tone, right? Sorry if I got it wrong! I just want to revive my cpu. I was may unclear on some posts. Please, say. Should I create a new thread?
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
8,362 (3.91/day)
System Name Bragging Rights
Processor Atom Z3735F 1.33GHz
Motherboard It has no markings but it's green
Cooling No, it's a 2.2W processor
Memory 2GB DDR3L-1333
Video Card(s) Gen7 Intel HD (4EU @ 311MHz)
Storage 32GB eMMC and 128GB Sandisk Extreme U3
Display(s) 10" IPS 1280x800 60Hz
Case Veddha T2
Audio Device(s) Apparently, yes
Power Supply Samsung 18W 5V fast-charger
Mouse MX Anywhere 2
Keyboard Logitech MX Keys (not Cherry MX at all)
VR HMD Samsung Oddyssey, not that I'd plug it into this though....
Software W10 21H1, barely
Benchmark Scores I once clocked a Celeron-300A to 564MHz on an Abit BE6 and it scored over 9000.
New cooler with a strong, robust baseplate and the Thermalright/Thermal Grizzly reinforcement frame should be all that's needed.

I don't think any modern CPU is good for the old direct-contact heatpipe coolers any more; Ignoring the poor contact between pipes and poor heat distribution to the outer pipes, the current-gen LGA sockets have too much mounting pressure for heatpipes IMO. They aren't that strong and deformation is definitely possible.
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
261 (0.06/day)
Location
Assam (India)
System Name myLastOne
Processor Intel Core i7 12700F @ PL1=PL2=150 Watts
Motherboard MSI B660M MAG Mortar
Cooling Deepcool AK400 + CM Sickleflow 120mm (Push|Pull)
Memory 2x 16GB Crucial Ballistix 3600MHz 16-18-18-38
Video Card(s) Asus TUF RTX 3060 Ti Gaming OC
Storage TeamGroup MP33 Pro M2 1TB + (1+2)TB Seagate + 2TB WD
Display(s) BenQ EW2775ZH
Case CM Elite 371 USB3 With Arctic F14 (Side+Front) + Arctic Bionix F120 (Back) + CM 120mm (Top)
Audio Device(s) Realtek ALC 1200 + Swans D1010-IV
Power Supply MSI MPG A750GF
Mouse Logitech G102 LightSync
Keyboard Logitech G100
VR HMD None
Software Windows 11 PRO
New cooler with a strong, robust baseplate and the Thermalright/Thermal Grizzly reinforcement frame should be all that's needed.

I don't think any modern CPU is good for the old direct-contact heatpipe coolers any more; Ignoring the poor contact between pipes and poor heat distribution to the outer pipes, the current-gen LGA sockets have too much mounting pressure for heatpipes IMO. They aren't that strong and deformation is definitely possible.
Thanks but thats solved now (for the time being, will report back in summer, also installed bracket). Please read, post 15 (3rd paragraph). Its now about the boost now.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2023
Messages
1,507 (3.68/day)
Location
Nowhere
System Name I don't name my rig
Processor 14700K
Motherboard Asus TUF Z790
Cooling Air/water/DryIce
Memory DDR5 G.Skill Z5 RGB 6000mhz C36
Video Card(s) RTX 4070 Super
Storage 980 Pro
Display(s) Some LED 1080P TV
Case Open bench
Audio Device(s) Some Old Sherwood stereo and old cabinet speakers
Power Supply Corsair 1050w HX series
Mouse Razor Mamba Tournament Edition
Keyboard Logitech G910
VR HMD Quest 2
Software Windows
Benchmark Scores Max Freq 13700K 6.7ghz DryIce Max Freq 14700K 7.0ghz DryIce Max all time Freq FX-8300 7685mhz LN2
Seems, you may be right afterall (?) The slightest of slight bend is the on the upper side of cpu ihs (the shorter side of the rectangle on one side.) Yes concave but very slight, you cannot feel it but see it in certain conditions. Never paid any attention (or measured), never been an issue since 12th gen. Can manufacturing defect cause this? Arent cpu manufacturing by default is "perfect" bleeding edge cannot be copied top-notch?

1. Its Kingpin KPx, very well kept.
2. No, very thin, I am not the verge guy, I apply little and spread and spread and spead and spread.
3. Mounting pressure perfect. Bad paste, possible.
4. I am from a dusty and very humid place.
5. Close up pic to show cpu detail (cpu + paste). Also, very bad picture taker.
6. Techpowerup, did test AK400, very good (esp on intel). Also, Pl1=Pl2=150w. And it worked before. ...And its an i7 12700"F" (Max, 180w). Tested from pl1=pl2=95w, until I was comfortable with perf and temp. Why would I lie? Or are you insinuating that I did? Please, I would never. Dont do that please.


You might be right (?) I became depressed even after the brackets came I didn't reinstall. Did not use PC, all this time. Only day before yesterday that I did. Tested p95 with hw info on 2021 oct version Windows 11 and latest. Temp. at 63C (how much it will increase during summer dont know). But temp is not the issue now, just boost! Stuck at 3.8ghz! If I remember correctly I did a bios update prev year november, I think. That might have messed up, maybe? Cannot say. Now when temp fixed, tested on different os versions and different p95 versions used, culprit seems the new bios, wouldnt you say so too?
I could go back but ups acting up dont know whats up, batteries are 7mnths old only. Repair possiple only next month. Besides I am not going out.
What do you suggest I do (concerning the cpu boost issue)?
I tried putting pl1=pl2=180w but no change in temp or boost. Earlier in 2021 when I tested it it reached 87C in 3mins boost 4.89ghz. I stopped the test. Now no change.
But when I reset bios boost increases but only to 4.1ghz and temp. actually drops 1 degrees. Can the bios update cause manual setting pl1 and pl2 values to become redundant? Is that even possible? But why? What purpose does it serve?
Do you have any idea?

@ShrimpBrime Would you like to see all settings of my uefi bios?

Sorry for wasting everyones time for 2 months!! Only re-assembled day before yesterday.
I recommend to clear cmos. Do the testing at defaults, make sure it's boosting and then set up your XMP.

There is no reason to under-volt or limit power settings with coolers that are believed adequate.
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
261 (0.06/day)
Location
Assam (India)
System Name myLastOne
Processor Intel Core i7 12700F @ PL1=PL2=150 Watts
Motherboard MSI B660M MAG Mortar
Cooling Deepcool AK400 + CM Sickleflow 120mm (Push|Pull)
Memory 2x 16GB Crucial Ballistix 3600MHz 16-18-18-38
Video Card(s) Asus TUF RTX 3060 Ti Gaming OC
Storage TeamGroup MP33 Pro M2 1TB + (1+2)TB Seagate + 2TB WD
Display(s) BenQ EW2775ZH
Case CM Elite 371 USB3 With Arctic F14 (Side+Front) + Arctic Bionix F120 (Back) + CM 120mm (Top)
Audio Device(s) Realtek ALC 1200 + Swans D1010-IV
Power Supply MSI MPG A750GF
Mouse Logitech G102 LightSync
Keyboard Logitech G100
VR HMD None
Software Windows 11 PRO
I recommend to clear cmos. Do the testing at defaults, make sure it's boosting and then set up your XMP.

There is no reason to under-volt or limit power settings with coolers that are believed adequate.
Not even turn un XMP? XMP is off at default. Plz reply
 
Joined
Nov 19, 2005
Messages
783 (0.11/day)
Location
GA, USA
System Name Gamer
Processor Ryzen 7 5800X3D
Motherboard Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite WIFI
Cooling Apogee XL, MCR360, MCP655, Micro-rez
Memory 2x16GB G.Skill DDR4-3600 CL16
Video Card(s) Red Dragon RX 6800 XT
Storage WD SN850 1TB & SN750 1TB
Display(s) LG 32GK650F-B 32" 1440p 144Hz
Case Rocketfish (Lian Li) e-ATX
Audio Device(s) Harman Kardon HK695 2.1
Power Supply Seasonic Focus GM-750
Mouse HP Gaming wired
Keyboard Logitech G110 wired
VR HMD HP WMR 1440^2
Software Win10 Pro 64bit
Not even turn un XMP? XMP is off at default. Plz reply
He's talking about testing the system. Start with XMP off after a BIOS reset and test to see if boost problem is corrected.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2023
Messages
1,507 (3.68/day)
Location
Nowhere
System Name I don't name my rig
Processor 14700K
Motherboard Asus TUF Z790
Cooling Air/water/DryIce
Memory DDR5 G.Skill Z5 RGB 6000mhz C36
Video Card(s) RTX 4070 Super
Storage 980 Pro
Display(s) Some LED 1080P TV
Case Open bench
Audio Device(s) Some Old Sherwood stereo and old cabinet speakers
Power Supply Corsair 1050w HX series
Mouse Razor Mamba Tournament Edition
Keyboard Logitech G910
VR HMD Quest 2
Software Windows
Benchmark Scores Max Freq 13700K 6.7ghz DryIce Max Freq 14700K 7.0ghz DryIce Max all time Freq FX-8300 7685mhz LN2
Not even turn un XMP? XMP is off at default. Plz reply
Yes, clear cmos, test defaults without xmp.

XMP enables and increases voltages like system agent for example which increases cpu thermals.
 
Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Messages
2,041 (0.63/day)
Processor Intel i5 8400
Motherboard Asus Prime H370M-Plus/CSM
Cooling Scythe Big Shuriken & Noctua NF-A15 HS-PWM chromax.black.swap
Memory 8GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LT DDR4-2400
Video Card(s) ROG-STRIX-GTX1060-O6G-GAMING
Storage 1TB 980 Pro
Display(s) Samsung UN55KU6300F
Case Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 3
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III 750w
Software W11 Pro
Sorry, English is my 4th language. I am slow, sorry.

No sourness was intended. There is also no need for a new thread.
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
261 (0.06/day)
Location
Assam (India)
System Name myLastOne
Processor Intel Core i7 12700F @ PL1=PL2=150 Watts
Motherboard MSI B660M MAG Mortar
Cooling Deepcool AK400 + CM Sickleflow 120mm (Push|Pull)
Memory 2x 16GB Crucial Ballistix 3600MHz 16-18-18-38
Video Card(s) Asus TUF RTX 3060 Ti Gaming OC
Storage TeamGroup MP33 Pro M2 1TB + (1+2)TB Seagate + 2TB WD
Display(s) BenQ EW2775ZH
Case CM Elite 371 USB3 With Arctic F14 (Side+Front) + Arctic Bionix F120 (Back) + CM 120mm (Top)
Audio Device(s) Realtek ALC 1200 + Swans D1010-IV
Power Supply MSI MPG A750GF
Mouse Logitech G102 LightSync
Keyboard Logitech G100
VR HMD None
Software Windows 11 PRO
...There is no reason to under-volt or limit power settings with coolers that are believed adequate.
There was a reason for me. I came from i5 4590 so performance was enough for me. And tests have shown that even pl1=pl2=125w, easily gets you 90%+ of the perf, pl1=pl2=150w was a bonus for me! Maybe buy a better cooler after 6 months (I never did). I did not under volt. Just pl1=pl2=150w and enabled XMP.

Heres, the test result 6mins test small fft prime95:
Untitled.png

No sourness was intended. There is also no need for a new thread.
Sorry.
 
Top