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i7-13700HX capped at 25 watts

Joined
Mar 11, 2024
Messages
25 (0.07/day)
System Name OMEN
Processor i7-13700HX
Memory DDR5-4800 (8GB )x2
Video Card(s) RTX 4060
Storage WD BLACK 1TB SN850
Display(s) Acer NITRO 2K WQHD 170HZ
Keyboard ROCCAT VULKAN 121 AIMO
Benchmark Scores Time Spy 11878 (HWBOT World Record)
Greetings,

I have an i7-13700HX, and its been a year since I have really tuned my PC. I recently had to reset everything, so here I am now.
I ran some tests, and previously with some undervolting I achieved 30% more performance than I am now. I noticed that my CPU isn't boosting much past 25 watts, nor is it getting very hot anymore.

1738914754544.png


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Here are some screenshots, the above score is from now, the below are scores I used to get a couple of months ago.
1738915068656.png

If someone could please help, thank you.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2022
Messages
239 (0.21/day)
I recently had to reset everything, so here I am now.
What was the reason for the "reset". What exactly did you do?

Did you perhaps restore the BIOS back to its Default settings and disable Throttlestop?

On a desktop system I'd be inclined to install a fresh copy of Windows on a new SSD (without Throttlestop) and see what happens.

On a laptop, it's a different matter. You'd need too open up the laptop which can be tricky, especially if you're not experienced with such operations or concerned about warranties.

Next best thing might be to boot the laptop from a Linux distro on a USB memory stick and run some tests.
https://www.techradar.com/best/best-usb-bootable-distros

You could even build a bootable Windows USB stick with WinToUSB. A bit slower than booting from internal SSD, but OK for testing.
https://www.easyuefi.com/wintousb/

The idea is to see if it's an Operating System/Throttlestop problem, or purely a hardware fault.
 
Joined
Mar 11, 2024
Messages
25 (0.07/day)
System Name OMEN
Processor i7-13700HX
Memory DDR5-4800 (8GB )x2
Video Card(s) RTX 4060
Storage WD BLACK 1TB SN850
Display(s) Acer NITRO 2K WQHD 170HZ
Keyboard ROCCAT VULKAN 121 AIMO
Benchmark Scores Time Spy 11878 (HWBOT World Record)
I upgraded the SSD from the stock kioxia 512GB to a WD 1TB, and also installed a new OS and everything, to remove the bloatware which it came with. So I basically restarted. It is a gaming laptop, OMEN 16t-Wf000 model.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2022
Messages
239 (0.21/day)
installed a new OS and everything
OK, bang goes my theory a new OS would fix things. So far it's done the exact opposite. It's made things worse.

Am I correct in thinking the old OS + "bloatware" allowed the CPU to run at full speed?

If so, you might not have installed "everything" you need to permit normal working on the new OS, i.e the correct drivers. Laptops can be tricky because they normally have two power sources, mains and battery. Desktops tend to have only one power source, namely mains. This makes desktop operating systems less complex on the power front.

In most laptops, there are two power profiles which control the CPU's power output, depending on the power source. When running from mains, it's more common to allow the CPU to run at higher or full speed, when programs require more processing power. When running from battery only, the OS will usually switch to another power profile which optionally allows you to reduce maximum CPU power,to extend battery life. Tasks take longer or slow down, but the battery often lasts longer too.

If you don't have all the relevant Windows drivers loaded for the battery and the battery charging circuits, plus any of the laptop manufacturer's software that interfaces with the Windows mains/battery power profiles, you might end up in your situation.

Question.

Have you checked HP's web site and downloaded all the drivers associated with your laptop? Have you applied these drivers? Have you checked the Windows profiles for mains and battery under Power Options? There may be some setting that needs to be tweaked.

If you still have the old SSD and it boots into Windows, you could temporarily re-install it and check all the drivers in Control Panel under Batteries. Make a note of each item and its associated driver and version number. Check the mains and battery power profile settings under Power Options. You'll probably find a few differences which might help you to fix the problem in the new OS.

If the worst comes to the worst, you might consider cloning the old SSD (complete with all that nasty "bloatware") on to the new SSD, and seek alternative ways to get rid of things you don't like. There are online tutorials on how to reduce Windows "footprint" by selectively disabling Services, Registry hacks and other techniques. You may lose some functionality, but you might end up with an OS more to your liking. If the "bloatware" is third party (not Microsoft) it should be easier to get rid of some/most/all of it, with some hard work and a bit of luck.

I recommend getting the new OS working properly, before you attempt to undervolt the CPU again. Windows might have detected something unexpected during installation on the new SSD if the CPU was undervolted and Microsoft made some inappropriate settings based on unusual behaviour, for a CPU with "restricted" settings. I tend to disable XMP, PBO and any other overclock settings in the BIOS of a desktop PC, before installing Windows. Similarly, I restore a laptop's BIOS to stock before installing Windows.

It's not unknown for laptop manufacturers to include trial copies of anti virus software and other unwanted "offerings". Is this the "bloatware" you were trying to get rid of?
 
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