3D Printer Club

[SN2716057]

Joe Coopers' Lid riser & hinge system is completely done!

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I also printed the Voroni vase (1 piece) for my mum

Objects for scale. Took 'only' 3,5 hours to print at 80% scale at 500% print speed..was originally at 100% scale and normal speed around 13 hours.
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Tomorrow I'll print this StreamDeck Mount to Fanatec Edit: I should really stop saying that as I don't really know when I'll be home.
Anyway instead of that ^^^^ I made:

Toothpaste Tube Squeezer by ottenjr
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Flexi Holding Cat (Print-in-place)

 

[de.das.dude]

I just made the cat at 50% lol. its still works. Cute as heck.

made a wire snake for the ender 3

a better part cooling duct:

a tool holder

currently printing Swordfish from Cowboy bebop at 50% scale (seen in the part cooler pic)

Swordfish II Components by WillisMakerBot

This is a remix of the brilliant Swordfish II model uploaded by Xander779. All I did was separate the shells into pieces that can be printed in different colors and glued together.1:50 scale

www.thingiverse.com

 

[de.das.dude]

Any one know why this is happening? Too hot bed?


Bed was 60C throughout

initial filament is 200, 2nd layer onwards is 195

My movements are all smooth without lumps or issues on the x and y axis

 

[SN2716057]

Any one know why this is happening? Too hot bed?

Bed was 60C throughout

initial filament is 200, 2nd layer onwards is 195

Your fan duct is too good?

 

[de.das.dude]

Your fan duct is too good?

wait lol. what to do then. more temps for base and filament??

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912394

im using this ^

 

[SN2716057]

wait lol. what to do then. more temps for base and filament??

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912394

im using this ^

Dude, I was guessing. I'm waaaaay to inexperienced atm. Although some people in the comments do talk about failed prints, not sticking to the bed anymore.
Did you experience any mishaps before you installed the Fan cooling duct mod?
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Made a 2.5" drive tray, several brackets to hold my shifting Schiit in place, and a somewhat failed but still working camera belt clip (still need to find a screw)

 

[de.das.dude]

Dude, I was guessing. I'm waaaaay to inexperienced atm. Although some people in the comments do talk about failed prints, not sticking to the bed anymore.
Did you experience any mishaps before you installed the Fan cooling duct mod?
--
Made a 2.5" drive tray, several brackets to hold my shifting Schiit in place, and a somewhat failed but still working camera belt clip (still need to find a screw)
View attachment 361331

yes i did have similar issues like this before, i thought the bed was too hot with this stupid ass filament. (this filament has a mind of its own and is very inconsistent)

 

[Fokker]

Any one know why this is happening? Too hot bed?


Bed was 60C throughout

initial filament is 200, 2nd layer onwards is 195

My movements are all smooth without lumps or issues on the x and y axis
View attachment 361325

View attachment 361326

Is it just that one part or are you getting that with multiple parts? That looks like it's not enough cooling or too much bed heat for the filament (looks like the lowest layers are staying soft too long). I'm assuming it's PLA with those temps, so those should work decently.

I would try some runs of calibration towers and verify what settings that material likes best.

 

[de.das.dude]

Is it just that one part or are you getting that with multiple parts? That looks like it's not enough cooling or too much bed heat for the filament (looks like the lowest layers are staying soft too long). I'm assuming it's PLA with those temps, so those should work decently.

I would try some runs of calibration towers and verify what settings that material likes best.

i did reduce the bed heat and its fairing a bit better. Maybe this cooling duct sucks lol.

 

[Fokker]

i did reduce the bed heat and its fairing a bit better. Maybe this cooling duct sucks lol.

It's possible. Sometimes there's limitations to cooling that don't show up for whatever reason in testing/engineering the product. There's also environmental factors that can play a part, but PLA is pretty forgiving for that with the correct settings for the specific formulation.

I'm about to up my cooling because I'm starting to do really long prints and apparently clogging can become an issue with 3+ hour prints (hasn't been my experience, but may crop up in ABS/PA).

I ordered some Polymaker Fiberon PA612-CF to build the ducting because I plan on doing a great deal of ABS and Nylon printing that will cause PLA to sag due to the high heat proximity.

I also have some VisionMiner Nano Polymer Adhesive on the way to help with bed any bed adhesion problems for these filaments.

 

[de.das.dude]

Okay SOMETHING WEIRD!

i was seeing how low i could go and my PLA flows well even at 180C! at 200C it is giving me rash on the extruded filament which leads me to believe that it is over heating (filament is 205 rated and has really good review)

So i try to go lower at 175C and the firmware cut me off, nevertheless i was still able to easily push out filament by hand!

how do i calibrate my nozzle temp correctly? i didnt find any settings for off setting.

 

[Fokker]

Okay SOMETHING WEIRD!

i was seeing how low i could go and my PLA flows well even at 180C! at 200C it is giving me rash on the extruded filament which leads me to believe that it is over heating (filament is 205 rated and has really good review)

So i try to go lower at 175C and the firmware cut me off, nevertheless i was still able to easily push out filament by hand!

how do i calibrate my nozzle temp correctly? i didnt find any settings for off setting.

I didn't find a more recent video, but this video covers how to do a temperature calibration tower in Cura and the process hasn't changed.

 

[FreedomEclipse]

Not a member of the club and not joining but are there any members here either in europe or the UK?

Im looking at some sort of 120mm fan duct and curious to how much it would cost for you to do a one off print.

Ideally id be looking at something like this off ebay - but the cost of shipping is dumb. ALmost $37 to ship. And This one here doesnt have a price

Anyone know of someone in the UK who would do a one off job and not charge stupid money for it?

::EDIT::

This should be a 'printable' for the first fan duct/shroud

 

[de.das.dude]

I didn't find a more recent video, but this video covers how to do a temperature calibration tower in Cura and the process hasn't changed.

I DID THIS AND FIGURED **IT OUT!



It feels like my nozzle is reporting higher than normal temps. I did re seat the thermistor with some MX-4 but seems like its an issue in the firmware itself Oh well. 180C seems like a good temp to print in.

i did this via prusa slicer, way easier to do the code (just paste)

instructions are here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076/files

 

[SN2716057]

Today's batch

Desk organizer, USB A&C + SD/MicroSD tray, 3.5 inch HDD tray, AAA battery holder for Ikea SKÅDIS (edit: both the AA & the AAA version)

 

[Fokker]

Working on a project to make a replacement HVAC vent for a MazdaSpeed3 that will hold a 52mm aftermarket gauge. Still more work to be done, but I'm waiting on the factory part to arrive so I can dimension it and make adjustments. I'm doing a print of this now to verify fitment of the gauge and how much space there is for airflow around the gauge.

 

[SN2716057]

Working on a project to make a replacement HVAC vent for a MazdaSpeed3 that will hold a 52mm aftermarket gauge. Still more work to be done, but I'm waiting on the factory part to arrive so I can dimension it and make adjustments. I'm doing a print of this now to verify fitment of the gauge and how much space there is for airflow around the gauge.

View attachment 361540

What software do you use?

 

[Fokker]

What software do you use?

I'm currently using Fusion360 since I haven't found any affordable licensing options for SolidWorks (what I'm used to).

Fusion360 workflow feels like jumping on a Mac after SolidWorks, but I'm slowly getting used to it. I need to sit down and put some dedicated effort into learning it instead of the as needed basis I've been doing.

 

[de.das.dude]

Damn, some good filament and a bit of tuning works wonders:

6.5 hr print

Sorry for the kind of shaky pictures. I was excite

 

[FoulOnWhite]

Damn, some good filament and a bit of tuning works wonders:

6.5 hr print

View attachment 361576


View attachment 361577


View attachment 361578


Sorry for the kind of shaky pictures. I was excite

Nice


Nice to see the club is seeing some people posting now.

 

[Frick]

Personally I'm weirded out by folks who buy things and then use said things. In my defense I don't actually have space for a 3d printer so I pack it away between uses and that is detrimental to the use it sees.

 

[Fokker]

I definitely need to tweak the model. Mount ring ended up smaller than the (doesn't always translate 1:1 depending on material and printing orientation) and the vents can easily be doubled in size. I'll probably try printing it face down too to reduce the needs for supports and cut print time. The amount of supports definitely disrupted the bottom layer.

 

[SN2716057]

I definitely need to tweak the model. Mount ring ended up smaller than the (doesn't always translate 1:1 depending on material and printing orientation) and the vents can easily be doubled in size. I'll probably try printing it face down too to reduce the needs for supports and cut print time. The amount of supports definitely disrupted the bottom layer.

View attachment 361622 View attachment 361626 View attachment 361627View attachment 361628

I had exactly that too with my spool holder, it still works but it looks shitty.

 

[Fokker]

I had exactly that too with my spool holder, it still works but it looks shitty.

Yeah, if you need to print a cylinder on it's side for strength reasons, the default supports or temps/cooling need to be tweaked to avoid screwing that up. Even cleaned up, the surface is wavy.

Since this will be recessed in the dash, flipping it on it's face was the way to go. It cut 6 hours from the build time and it's so much cleaner.

 

[de.das.dude]

I definitely need to tweak the model. Mount ring ended up smaller than the (doesn't always translate 1:1 depending on material and printing orientation) and the vents can easily be doubled in size. I'll probably try printing it face down too to reduce the needs for supports and cut print time. The amount of supports definitely disrupted the bottom layer.

View attachment 361622 View attachment 361626 View attachment 361627View attachment 361628

i dont think you need the supports in the front part of the first pic. did you try without supports, or just flip it ? if you use prusa slicer there are a few options that give you a nice way to support overhangs.

the avoid crossing perimeters works great with reducing strings since it prevents the tip from zig zagging across the part, but it increases time by some margin.

I definitely need to tweak the model. Mount ring ended up smaller than the (doesn't always translate 1:1 depending on material and printing orientation) and the vents can easily be doubled in size. I'll probably try printing it face down too to reduce the needs for supports and cut print time. The amount of supports definitely disrupted the bottom layer.

View attachment 361622 View attachment 361626 View attachment 361627View attachment 361628

i dont think you need the supports in the front part of the first pic. did you try without supports? if you use prusa slicer there are a few options that give you a nice way to support overhangs.

there you go!