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Air makes its way from the reservoir into the radiator.

Let's logic this one out...because I think there's a ton of things to improve here. I'm going to start by the general layout....and try to understand the logic.


CPU - Radiator (top) - Radiator (back) - Radiator (bottom) - Pump/Res - Radiator (front) - GPU - CPU
1) This is...just wow. So, your reservoir/pump is about midpoint on the height of the loop, meaning that it's got to both pull fluid up and push fluid down... That's a real no-no...you want the pump as low as possible so that it will not run dry period. If you have it both sucking and pushing you invite cavitation...which is its own issue.
2) The amount of radiator here is...silly. Think this through for just a moment. Heat flow is from area of high heat to lower heat. This means that by placing the two heat creating parts together you are going to have less flow (delta in temperatures low, heat flow low). You're going to have problems measuring this because loop temperatures and power limits are low...along with relatively high error margins. I...just don't think that this was thought through....because it seems more like an "add more radiators will make it cooler" type of ad-hoc configuration.

3) Let me math this out for you...using easy numbers. CPU generates 200 Watts and GPU creates 400 watts. Theoretically at stable state you get 600 Watts into loop and 600 watts out of loop...but the problem with both heat sources next to one another the fluid temperature has to rise much higher to support that. The counter is that...because of numbers you don't see it. To raise one liter of water one degree C you need 4180 Joules...1 watt = 1 Joule/Second, so to raise a fluid loop 1 Liter/minute flow you'd need to dump 4180/60 = 69.67 Watts of heat into the system. Yep, that 600 Watt heat source should only have you increasing 8.6 degrees C with a liter per minute flow (and no radiator). Hopefully it's easy to see then that 1500 liters/hour, or 25 liters per minute (25 times faster than our calculation, for a D5 pump) basically yields such low fluid temperatures as to be silly. Yes, that 600 Watt thermal load at a D5 pump rate of 25 Liters per minute, would amount to a fluid temperature of 0.344 C assuming there was no radiator to release energy from the system. Throw in the assumption of radiators existing...and you being at thermal equilibrium, and you've got that 1 liter of fluid heating up with 600 Watts, flowing into a radiator, cooling down 600 Watts, and zero net temperature change in the loop.

4) Does the math make sense? The average water heater is about 30 gallons, and 50000 BTU/hr = 14654 Watts. 14654/600 = 24.3.....so a water heater meant to drive water to about 49 C....a delta of about 25 C, requires about 24x as much energy... The flow rate for a shower head is 7.9 Liters/minute...about 1/3 the rate of a cooling loop, but supplemented by a heated tank that can run out of water and leave you with a cold shower. Yep...the rough acid test makes sense.

5) Let me finish with a construction note on radiators. They're generally a chamber, tubes, chamber, tubes, etc... As long as the flow rate is relatively low those chambers shouldn't have a problem with some off-gassing, and they should absorb flow rate changes. Thing is, if you suddenly start having to pump to fill those chambers you develop a reverse pressure. The pumps designed for PC cooling really don't tolerate this well, so they tend to suck air from anywhere they can to fill what is effectively a temporary gap. What does that even mean? Your 2nd and 3rd pictures show where chambers might be above the level of other radiators...meaning that if you want to push fluid they literally have to reverse fill...which tends to pull bubbles. That reverse pressure is causing the noise...which is basically your pump fighting a vacuum because of poor design.



If I could recommend four things to you, it'd be as follows.
1) Remove two of your radiators. My money would be the front and bottom.
2) Replace the bottom radiator with a large tank. I run a more aggressive loop, but my pump can suck about half a cup from the tank before the loop flow equalizes. Your current tank is woefully undersized for that...and definitely should not be running such a large loop.
3) Place the pump on the bottom of the case. Wet pump is happy pump...and it will make sure that cavitation is much less likely during speed adjustments.
4) Restructure the loop to be something like GPU - Radiator (Top) - CPU - Radiator (Back) - Reservoir - Pump - GPU. It's not going to be a huge difference...but look at the numbers. A 600 Watt load is only 1/3 degree C of delta temperatures to be stable. This is often why people think there's no difference....because the difference of several hundreds of Watts is required to make a number large enough to matter when most tools measure to an accuracy of +/- 0.5 degrees...




If I could ask the obvious...is this your first loop? I'm asking because the first thing everybody thinks is more radiators = lower temperatures...and that's patently wrong. I know my first foray into water cooling saw a double height 360 radiator running a 120 Watt chip and I skipped out on the GPU...and I basically hit the thermal limitations on my CPU because running at maximum pump speed still has to answer to the laws of physics...which were confined to how fast the CPU die could actually conduct the heat into the thermal loop (read: way slower than a double height 360 radiator could reasonably cool). This design seems like that same kind of first time zeal which often costs us too much money...when a couple of 240 radiators would have been more than enough at 1/5th the price. The truth is more radiators = more heat capacity...but with only a few hundred Watts you need higher contact areas and large fin areas far more than additional time to transfer energy at low rates (due to low deltas in temperature).
 
His two 360 rads are cross-flow, which in terms of flow restriction and air accumulation are the least problematic. He has a normal rad right after the pump, which should take care of any air accumulation on top of the rad.

His loop would be fine, if he did not have that totally unnecessary 240 rad on the back wall.
 
The air gets stuck at the top of the rad in the second picture, it wouldn't really matter to me but once that happens it makes a pretty loud gurgling sound when the pump speed goes up. Anyone has any ideas ?
I was looking at that loop and was trying to figure out how did the initial fill and bleed was done with suck a small reservoir. Where are the fill and drain ports? Since you have places where air gets stuck in 4 axis how did you remove all air in the first place? Are you sure no air was left on first fill? Did you use a vaccum pump or something?

1715687128868.png
 
Fill port is in the left upper corner of the reservoir. You can drain the loop conveniently by removing the CPU block from the motherboard, putting it over some vessel, removing the block from hoses and blowing air in one of the hoses.
 
I was looking at that loop and was trying to figure out how did the initial fill and bleed was done with suck a small reservoir. Where are the fill and drain ports? Since you have places where air gets stuck in 4 axis how did you remove all air
The reservoir has a port on left upper side as noticed above but I also used the top rad to fill it since it has a port on each side, made things faster. I just tilted the case around to get rid of the air, the only places where an air pocket forms are the back and side rad but I am 100% sure there is no air left. Draining is indeed a pain.
 
The reservoir has a port on left upper side as noticed above but I also used the top rad to fill it since it has a port on each side, made things faster. I just tilted the case around to get rid of the air, the only places where an air pocket forms are the back and side rad but I am 100% sure there is no air left. Draining is indeed a pain.
Something like this i suppose on top an bottom rad's:
1715687241937.png


But for the vertical ones using standard design it's never 100% air free no matter how much you tilt the rad.

1715687532321.png


Some air bubbles will still be there between pipes where you have that concave section.

1715687948964.png


The only 100% no air method i know it's with a vaccum pump, but for that you need hard lines not soft tubes.

P.S.
Have you tried to remove the air bubbles from a medical siringe? you have to hit real hard to make the air pochets move.

1715688232975.png
 
Some air bubbles will still be there between pipes where you have that concave section.
I mean I am sure there is some tiny amount of air left somewhere but this isn't related to my issue.
 
And is that a problem? They just sit there and do no harm.
Under certain conditions pressure/temp/etc. they will start to move arround. I'm pretty sure this is the case here. Material permeation and other phemomena described here take more time to develop.
 
Under certain conditions pressure/temp/etc. they will start to move arround. I'm pretty sure this is the case here
I am sure literally all loops have some air trapped somewhere yet this doesn't happen in every case. And if the bubbles did start to move around they should all end up in the reservoir.

If I could ask the obvious...is this your first loop? I'm asking because the first thing everybody thinks is more radiators = lower temperatures...and that's patently wrong.
It's not and I am not going to remove the rad as said before, temperatures definitely improved when I went from 2x360 to the 3x360 and 1x240 that I have now, so as far I am concerned that was patently true in my case.

1) This is...just wow. So, your reservoir/pump is about midpoint on the height of the loop, meaning that it's got to both pull fluid up and push fluid down... That's a real no-no.
I've got no idea what you are trying to say here, no matter where I put the pump it will always need to push and pull the same amount of liquid against the same amount of gravity and friction. Also the pump is pretty much always going to end up roughly in the mid point of the height of the loop in a typical build.
 
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I wonder how long will you be able to live with your superfluous GURGLE MASTER 240 rad... :p
It starts to makes that noise only if the pump speed is high and it's not really that bad, just annoying that it happens. I could just leave the pump at it's minimum speed and forget about it, everything runs fine anyway.
 
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Must be really annoying when you made this thread about it. I would remove that gurgler and flip the top rad for nicer hose runs.
 
On a different note I wonder if I could do the following : heat up the loop pretty good, slightly unscrew the cap on the reservoir, let some pressure out, screw it back in and that should create a slightly lower than atmospheric pressure as the whole thing cools down. Maybe it will encourage the air to stay in the reservoir.
 
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Don't think it would have an effect even close to been that significant, might try it anyway see what happens.
 
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Don't think it would have an effect even close to been that significant, might try it anyway see what happens.
Don't forget to laydown some towels first. Just in case of an accident.

The reservoir has a port on left upper side as noticed above but I also used the top rad to fill it since it has a port on each side, made things faster. I just tilted the case around to get rid of the air, the only places where an air pocket forms are the back and side rad but I am 100% sure there is no air left. Draining is indeed a pain.
Regarding draining yea that can be a real pain. On mine I actually have drains on both sides of my distroplate which made draining a few minutes process. Even after that plenty of fluid in the system but quick disconnects make all that manageable so I can at least quick drain the system and disconnect parts to finish draining them individuallly.

1715705365600.png
 
Regarding draining yea that can be a real pain. On mine I actually have drains on both sides of my distroplate which made draining a few minutes process. Even after that plenty of fluid in the system but quick disconnects make all that manageable so I can at least quick drain the system and disconnect parts to finish draining them individuallly.
The problem in my case is that everything is sort of arranged in one big circle with a detour in the middle, no matter were I would have put a drain the water would still be stuck in places. The best way probably is indeed to remove the CPU block but that's an issue if I don't want to do that.
 
On a different note I wonder if I could do the following : heat up the loop pretty good, slightly unscrew the cap on the reservoir, let some pressure out, screw it back in and that should create a slightly lower than atmospheric pressure as the whole thing cools down. Maybe it will encourage the air to stay in the reservoir.
With 4 rads though does it really get that hot? The problem with that plan is it will just reach equilibrium again probably sooner than you think. Let's say you get lower atmospheric pressure enough to matter on cooldown you might just suck air in through a gasket somewhere (very slowly) anyway which is not what you want to happen.
The problem in my case is that everything is sort of arranged in one big circle with a detour in the middle, no matter were I would have put a drain the water would still be stuck in places. The best way probably is indeed to remove the CPU block but that's an issue if I don't want to do that.
Drain plus quick disconnects may help you. With quick disconnects you could reroute your config to purge air from your rads with temporary paths isolating 1 or just a few components at a time with minimal air reintroduction. In this example with QDC's in my mess of a rig I can inline a filter temporarily. In a similar way you can potentially reroute rads to your pump to help drive out the air with greater flow rate. Every custom loop has it's challanges.

1715706461149.png


You could also experiment with a different flow and see if that helps

1715707104526.png


A flow rate indicator would be good to include in your loop. When experimenting on the best flow pattern you can at least eyeball what paths seem to work better or how badly your flow rate is suffering as you add components.

One last idea. Looks like you have ample space you could stack one of your vertical rads with a horizontal one (with fans between them) so at least one more rad is more gravity neutral.
 
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On a different note I wonder if I could do the following : heat up the loop pretty good, slightly unscrew the cap on the reservoir, let some pressure out, screw it back in and that should create a slightly lower than atmospheric pressure as the whole thing cools down. Maybe it will encourage the air to stay in the reservoir.
Don't start doing crazy things as you will only damage your hardware if it goes wrong. PC watercooling products by the way, generally have a 60 degree Celsius limitation.

Do you actually have reduced cooling capacity, can you see it the temps? If not, there is actually no issue as some air in rad pockets is realy normal like mentioned in several posts here and over time some of it will come out just keep topping up the reservoir. The actual heat exchange is in the ribs of the radiators not in the pockets, so air bubbles in there will have no or absolute minimum inpact on the cooling.
If the temps get too high I more suspect an unsufficient flow due to the set up, a nice calculation example provided by Lilhasselhoffer.

I do agree with Lilhasselhoffer that the pump is in a less than ideal position and that is mildly put. Just to give you some insight about the positive head suction pressure which is needed by your pump, read the following paper as it clarifies a lot. It is from Xylem a well know industrial brand with tons of experience and knowledge, also the manufacterer of the original Laing D5 pump:
https://www.xylem.com/siteassets/su...tudies-pdf/cavitation-white-paper_final-2.pdf

Radiator surface overkill in your rig, yes but who am I to judge, as long as your pump can get 100 l/h for cooling through them, it will be good.
And yes more rads means more pockets were air can get trapped and more dynamic resistance resulting in less flow. Not by far, even enough flow to get these bubbles out.

If you encounter cavitation the easiest solution is to lower the pump speed, but mounting it lower and getting a bigger reservoir would be better slight increase of the NPSHa (Net Positive Suction Head).
Hope this sentence above doesn't get censored, it sounds like cheap porn :roll:.

I also have to correct myself, in an earlier post I stated that cavitation creates vacuum bubbles but they are actually gas/air bubbles due to the low vapour pressure. However they implode again inmidially and don't create air bubbles in the system, just to tackle a pointless discussion on this ;).
 
Don't start doing crazy things as you will only damage your hardware if it goes wrong. PC watercooling products by the way, generally have a 60 degree Celsius limitation.
I'm obviously not going to let the thing go scorching hot.

have reduced cooling capacity, can you see it the temps? If not, there is actually no issue as some air in rad pockets
No, it's not about that, it's that when I increase pump speed that rad makes a noticeable slushing/gurling noise because the water is just sort of jetting out in that air pocket I imagine.

With 4 rads though does it really get that hot? The problem with that plan is it will just reach equilibrium again probably sooner than you think. Let's say you get lower atmospheric pressure enough to matter on cooldown you might just suck air in through a gasket somewhere (very slowly) anyway which is not what you want to happen.
It does eventually if I just stop the fans. I am thinking that the water expands ever so slightly when warm, so when I open the cap some air goes out that was previously under pressure and after it cools down the water contracts and the trapped air will be forced to expand in that same volume. I imagine the whole thing is relatively airtight, who knows. Again I think this would be a very weak effect.
 
many here seem to forget virtually all (sealed) AIOs have air in it, to allow for changes in water temp.

@Vya Domus
sealed loop = not good.
arent you using a pressure valve? i prefer the ones using a gore-tex membrane vs those that are just using a small opening, as no water can "leak".
usually a good idea to have larger res with the amount of stuff your running, one reason i decide for a 400ml unit,
and helps with filling, as i can run the pump with only a few breaks for refilling res, but also helps with removing air that doesn't get sucked right back in from the pump.

i usually try to run pump only (power brick) when filling, with the case/res located at the highest point, making trapped air more likely to leave blocks/rads.

but short of a loose screw on barb, i never have air returning to rad or even my (vertical) gpu, with the block being almost 10cm higher than res top.
 
Maybe one day I'll buy a bigger distro plate but I still do not believe the amount of liquid in the reservoir has any relation to this.

I mean you guys realize one can simply run a pump without it being directly attached to a reservoir, what then ? This whole talk about head suction pressure/cavitation/etc or how big the reservoir is just suddenly not apply ?
 
Maybe one day I'll buy a bigger distro plate but I still do not believe the amount of liquid in the reservoir has any relation to this.

I mean you guys realize one can simply run a pump without it being directly attached to a reservoir, what then ? This whole talk about head suction pressure/cavitation/etc or how big the reservoir is just suddenly not apply ?
My lousy 2 cents....

I'd add another pump.
 
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