best Multimeter under £20for Motherboard testing

[Bill_Bright]

The Mastech MS8264 is a nicer meter than the Mastech I suggested above, but costs yet another 11 quid more, and nearly doubles the OP's stated budget and will exceed it with VAT and shipping. If the budget can be increased, then great. If not, I think we need to try and get closer to the OP's budget, not further away.

 

[caroline!]

Can't believe they're still selling these

YX-360TR N Analogue Meter Multimeter Multitester Fuse Diode Protection DC & AC 660960088106 | eBay

Multitester Model YX-360TRN. Fuse & Diode Protection. DC Current. 1 x Instruction Manual. 18 Ranges Use Two "AA" (1.5V) and One 9V Battery (NOT included). 1 x Set of Test Leads.

www.ebay.com

Look at the "e" letter lol they literally inverted the "a"

For those who don't know these are clones of the japanese Sanwa YX360 which was a really popular and trustworthy model back in the day... a brand you don't usually hear about nowadays. They make digitals as well and they're great, though not all of them are made in Japan anymore, I'd say the digital equivalent of the 360 is the RD701 if you're interested, not a "cheap" multimeter like the China clones tho, but I guess you could still get a clone of that one too, won't be as precise, but hey.

Can still get the new 360 model in Japan.

Amazon.co.jp

 

[Shrek]

I believe that analogue meters still have a place when one wants to see variations.

My Fluke 110 has a bar below the digits to aid with this.

 

[Bill_Bright]

There is nothing to suggest a digital meter is better than an analog one, or visa versa. Some people just prefer a needle readout. In certain lighting, a digital display may be harder to see. But the same can be said for analog.

Sometimes, if you just want to check for the presence and general potential of voltage, an analog meter can be real handy - for example, when testing batteries.

I miss my old Simpson 260. It was one of the originals and came in a "ruggedized" version, in metal case. Sadly, it somehow disappeared when I moved from England back to the US.

 

[Jose Jeswin]

My daily use MASTECH M830BZ...

My Mini Analog METRAVI 250TR...

I use these for day to day testing.....If i have any doubts i use my fluke meter to confirm.....

i am looking for a vintage P3 analog multimeter...they have a breadboard like voltage range selection mechanism...

 

[Greenslade]

How is The Keysight not here. Cmon

Thats what Richard uses Fluke.

How is The Keysight not here. Cmon

M

Mastechs are cheap, Fluke is a desperate amount of overkill for home hobbyist use.


Then buy one that bleeps on a diode. In my experience even the cheap ones measure ok.



Different tools in different regions. I've never even seen a Keysight instrument.

No Ke

I actually have a Fluke 110 and got it exactly not to have current measurement (safer that way)

I

There is nothing to suggest a digital meter is better than an analog one, or visa versa. Some people just prefer a needle readout. In certain lighting, a digital display may be harder to see. But the same can be said for analog.

Sometimes, if you just want to check for the presence and general potential of voltage, an analog meter can be real handy - for example, when testing batteries.

I miss my old Simpson 260. It was one of the originals and came in a "ruggedized" version, in metal case. Sadly, it somehow disappeared when I moved from England back to the US.

That sure is a vintage one. I know what you mean Bill when you move things seem to go missing. I can,t find things in my Studeo flat

My Fluke 8060A has survived abuse since 1981 and is still fully functional.

Wow thats a long time to last and still works like new.

 

[Shrek]

Or get a £3 meter
DFGHR High-Precision Digital Ammeter,DT830B Autoranging Multimeter | DT830B AC/DC Voltage, Backlight LCD Display Measure Diode Electrical Tester : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
so you can develop opinions of your own

 

[Bill_Bright]

That's almost too good to be true. I note the shipping costs almost twice the meter itself.

Might be good to toss in a tool bag for house calls.

 

[dragontamer5788]

Note that the higher-end brands are about accuracy. 3-digits (aka: 99.9% accuracy) or more.

Very high end benchtop multimeters can reach 6+ digits of accuracy, but Fluke and other high-end brands are in the 3 to 4 digits of accuracy region. Which is useful and important for hobby electronics and worth the money.

Maybe a $20 multimeter is all you need with 2-digits (99%) accuracy. But most people go into electronics because they plan to do... well... electronics. Which means you need a device that reaches more accurate than that.

 

[Jetster]

Look for a used Fluke, I've had this Mac branded Fluke sense 1983

 

[Frick]

Note that the higher-end brands are about accuracy. 3-digits (aka: 99.9% accuracy) or more.

Very high end benchtop multimeters can reach 6+ digits of accuracy, but Fluke and other high-end brands are in the 3 to 4 digits of accuracy region. Which is useful and important for hobby electronics and worth the money.

Maybe a $20 multimeter is all you need with 2-digits (99%) accuracy. But most people go into electronics because they plan to do... well... electronics. Which means you need a device that reaches more accurate than that.

I have never encountered a scenario where I need that kind of accuracy. Can you give examples?

Wow thats a long time to last and still works like new.

Not hard with multimeters.

Look for a used Fluke, I've had this Mac branded Fluke sense 1983


View attachment 308020

Honestly ... probably not worth it, unless you get it for really cheap, but that is probably not happening because it's Fluke.

Amazon.co.uk

I have something like that btw (because it measures temps), and it's good. Uni-T make decent stuff.

 

[Shrek]

I have a harbor freight meter, but only because they were giving them away free (with purchase);
switch needed fixing with silicone oil, but it still works.

 

[dragontamer5788]

I have never encountered a scenario where I need that kind of accuracy. Can you give examples?

People think that 3-digits is accurate but... it really isn't. A 99.9% accuracy clock (ex: if you're making a 555-timer or something) means that over 3-hours, you'll be +/- 10 seconds off, while a 99% accuracy clock means you'll be +/- 100 seconds off. Over a 24-hour period, you'll be nearly 15-minutes off at 99% accuracy.

You can't even make a damn alarm clock with only 99% accuracy.

Furthermore: if you want a hobby-electronics part that has 90% (aka: +/- 10% accuracy), you often need to build them out of 1% accurate parts. If you want hobby-electronics that has 99% accuracy, you need to build everything out of 99.9% accurate parts. I'm exaggerating a little bit (and there's ways to add trim-pots / trim down the error), but a multimeter with high-accuracy to find these zeros is helpful for this.

----------------

A lot of electronics is about making due with incredibly poor accuracy (lol -50% to +100% capacitor specifications). But if you ever get into timekeeping, suddenly those 99% or even 99.9% accuracy measurements are completely unusable.

 

[Frick]

People think that 3-digits is accurate but... it really isn't. A 99.9% accuracy clock (ex: if you're making a 555-timer or something) means that over 3-hours, you'll be +/- 10 seconds off, while a 99% accuracy clock means you'll be +/- 100 seconds off. Over a 24-hour period, you'll be nearly 15-minutes off at 99% accuracy.

You can't even make a damn alarm clock with only 99% accuracy.

Furthermore: if you want a hobby-electronics part that has 90% (aka: +/- 10% accuracy), you often need to build them out of 1% accurate parts. If you want hobby-electronics that has 99% accuracy, you need to build everything out of 99.9% accurate parts. I'm exaggerating a little bit (and there's ways to add trim-pots / trim down the error), but a multimeter with high-accuracy to find these zeros is helpful for this.

Fair enough, but then you are doing completely different things than a complete beginner "troubleshooting motherboards" would do.

 

[Greenslade]

Or get a £3 meter
DFGHR High-Precision Digital Ammeter,DT830B Autoranging Multimeter | DT830B AC/DC Voltage, Backlight LCD Display Measure Diode Electrical Tester : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
so you can develop opinions of your own

Thats cheap thats not going to be much good I think i will get this one

its over my price ay £27 i have seen a lot of videos on the make.

AstroAI Multimeter Review​

Fair enough, but then you are doing completely different things than a complete beginner "troubleshooting motherboards" would do.

Thats what i want it for Frick .And like the guy says in the video a pro would not get this one they would get a more expensive one with more accuracy,If i say it myself this subject was another winner on here i think you will all agree

 

[Jose Jeswin]

Most Multimeters available in india are mostly based on 2 chipsets

1. DT830 and its variants....
2. DT9205A and its variants..

DT830 is most ubiquitous ranging from no name chinese makes to excellent brands like mastech and aneng...they are mostly accurate for daily home use....

DT830B Inside View

DT9205A has a few more features.....used by brands like UNI-T and Sanwa.............Preferred by electricians due to adjustable measurement values.....
https://datasheet4u.com/datasheet-pdf/ETC/DT9205A/pdf.php?id=756481



Fluke, Meco, Signetics and others use their own proprietary chipsets....

DT830 based meters are the cheapest ones i have seen........

 

[Greenslade]

I have never encountered a scenario where I need that kind of accuracy. Can you give examples?


Not hard with multimeters.


Honestly ... probably not worth it, unless you get it for really cheap, but that is probably not happening because it's Fluke.

Amazon.co.uk

I have something like that btw (because it measures temps), and it's good. Uni-T make decent stuff.

My one does to ,Temps that is. It seems Fluke is the number one brand in Multimeters ,not that i had heard of it tell recently.Wow only 27 reviews on Amazon.

 

[silentbogo]

Just for mobo testing? Pretty much any half-decent multimeter. All you need is good needle probes - that's it.
If you bump your budget by a wee-bit, you can get my all-time favorite Holdpeak HP-890CN or HP-770HC.
It's pretty much the same meter, only 890CN is a chinese version, while 770HC is a "worldwide" version.
There are some minor differences, though...
While 770HC has a better build quality, it has slightly slower and slightly wonkier continuity test mode.
On the other hand, 890CN was a little cheaper, and can be modded(if you get the right revision). Haven't modded mine yet, but someday I will finally add UART and/or Bluetooth to it(so it can be used as data logger).
Both are in the $30-40 ballpark, but you get a decent autorange, adequately fast capacitance meter, thermocouple support etc.
I've used 890CN for almost 8 years at my workshop and so far not a single issue. 770 is in my home toolbox.

 

[Frick]

My one does to ,Temps that is. It seems Fluke is the number one brand in Multimeters ,not that i had heard of it tell recently.Wow only 27 reviews on Amazon.

Honestly I think Fluke is a waste of money unless you need the specs and build quality, which you don't. Amazon reviews are ... not worthless, but close. My two Uni-T meters measures the same as caibrated high end Fluke stuff.

 

[Greenslade]

I decide to go for a Soldering station instead of one of those cheap kits
YIHUA 926LED IV 60W Digital Soldering Iron Station Kit w Temperature Stabilization for Soldering & Desoldering w Helping Hands 5 Soldering Iron Tips

AstroAI Multimeter 6000 modalMight as well get some reasonable stuff​

 

[caroline!]

Fluke is a good brand but their products are aimed at professionals who will constantly use them, getting one for testing a mobo or some batteries is giga overkill. You could use any cheap multimeter for that and it'll still provide acceptable results.

Note to anyone concerned: avoid meters that come with capacitance, those are only good to test low value (<200uF) capacitors (to start/run motors, HVAC, etc.) and not those in a motherboard. It's better to have a standalone capacitance meter that go up to 5K.

Each tool has a use, analogue meters aren't as common to work with computers but they're good for other uses. And of course digital is 'easier' to read as it displays the numbers instead of moving a needle through multiple scales with values.

Or get a £3 meter
DFGHR High-Precision Digital Ammeter,DT830B Autoranging Multimeter | DT830B AC/DC Voltage, Backlight LCD Display Measure Diode Electrical Tester : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
so you can develop opinions of your own

I mean, I use exactly that at the workshop and to work outside and it reads just fine for computers and small electronics, my rule of is never measure anything over 48V because that's where you start getting off values. I'd never dare to measure 750 volts with that thing... the probes are plain awful and the wires will come loose after a few uses, I use mine with a good set of needles, alligator clips, spade terminals, etc. the stuff you wire yourself out of need and have forever.

Oh, the 10A current measurement on these is... subpar. But it's literally a $3 meter, not a fluke.

 

[Shrek]

Bad electrolytic capacitors don't always lose capacity, but can gain ESR (equivalent series resistance) and for that one needs a separate meter.

I had a 40 year old smoke alarm that would falsely trigger
Smoke Alarm Repair | Electronics Repair And Technology News Smoke Alarm Repair (jestineyong.com)
The main capacitor reported a healthy capacitance on a multi-meter, but the ESR was terrible.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Note to anyone concerned: avoid meters that come with capacitance

It's better to have a standalone capacitance meter that go up to 5K.

There's no need to "avoid" those meters. That suggests there is something bad or wrong with them, or that they are a rip-off and that is just not true.

Folks who need a meter to measure voltage, resistance, check for continuity, current and even many capacitors can safely buy and use a meter that measures capacitance just fine. However, if they need something more accurate and a wider variety of capacitors, then a dedicated capacitance checker might be a wise option, along with a decent multimeter.

I had a 40 year old smoke alarm that would falsely trigger

40 year old? Wow! I find it impressive it still worked at all after all that time.

However, pretty sure the detector industry, as well as the fire prevention industry all recommend replacing detectors every 10 years. I personally think the detector industry may be biased as they want us to spend money on their products to keep them in business. But the fire prevention industry has no such motive.

The problem I see with keeping such detectors so long is that dust can build up on the sensors and in the sensing zone and mimic smoke - thus triggering the alarm. Regular cleaning with a blast of compressed air or dusting gas can help. But in homes where people cook, dust will mix with airborne grease particles and coat the sensors. So over time, even blasting with compressed air will be of no help.

That said, I recently bought a CO and Smoke detector and discovered it has a non-replaceable battery and a 10 year "end of life" timer on it. I am sure it will not stop detecting after 10 years - but I am also sure that after 10 years, it will start yelling at me and not stop yelling at me until I rip it off the wall and replace it.

 

[r9]

Had been using this one for years. Just got better leads for it.

 

[dragontamer5788]

Fair enough, but then you are doing completely different things than a complete beginner "troubleshooting motherboards" would do.

I think you're misunderstanding my post.

I'm saying that Fluke / etc. etc. are over $100 because 3-digits accuracy cannot be faked and has fundamental expenses (noise requirements, well made designs, more expensive components) than 2-digits accuracy that you'd probably get from a $20 multimeter.

I'm not necessarily saying "people should buy the $100+ multimeters" (though any EE should care about this level of accuracy and therefore buy it at a minimum IMO). I'm saying you can make the decision whether or not you need that accuracy, as that's the biggest difference between $150 multimeters and a $20 one.