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CD player build log.

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Yup cold solder joints lead to high! resistance
Yep exactly a good solder joint will most likely melt the plastic, a bad solder joint will melt the plastic, spade crimps ftw.
 
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It's all assembled but I need some ideas for how to ground it properly.
20211027_084035~2.jpg


20211027_084234.jpg


I covered it in hot glue for both some strength and added insulation. Looks kinda crappy but it works.

I tried to ground it by the convenient scree right below it (bare metal underneath where it contacts) but this has a problem

20211027_085018.jpg


Board can't be installed. Any ideas on how to ground it so that the board still fits?
 
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Screenshot_20211027-214757~3.png

Screw it in here with the cable running parallel to the back of the case?
 
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I had considered that but for some reason thought it wouldn't work. I sanded down the area and touched up with a sharpie to make it look less bad.
20211027_112717.jpg
20211027_113322.jpg


While there is not much on the underside of the motherboard there, I do want some way to insulate it though. There isn't any locking with this screw, so it could back out. Any ideas?

Edit, had to really crank the screwdriver to get this srew in, but its in. It came from holding on the grounding to a psu
20211027_114032.jpg
 
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Get your bukkake on and hot glue it
 
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After hot gluing that, I'm going to buy a right angle power cable and replace the plug on the internal cable with the right angle plug. otherwise it isn't going to fit easily now.
In the meantime, I'm going to mount the dual 40mm intake fans properly. I might have to get a bit creative though, since i cant REALLY thread screws into the material the base is made of.
 
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In the meantime, I'm going to mount the dual 40mm intake fans properly. I might have to get a bit creative though, since i cant REALLY thread screws into the material the base is made of.

Rubber pull-through's?
Screenshot_20211028-001421.png
 
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Don't stretch enough
 
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Just went ahead and purchased a slimline sata to full size SATA adapter, as well as a right angle cable to cut the right angle plug from.

I'll find some more creative way to mount the fans.
 
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Ghetto Modding, this.

I love the idea and now I want something similar.

Tape deck would be good fun too. USB ports under those hatches? :D

Its also higher, you could probably fit full size stuff in there.
 
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Ghetto Modding, this.

I love the idea and now I want something similar.

Tape deck would be good fun too. USB ports under those hatches? :D

Its also higher, you could probably fit full size stuff in there.
Lan system in a 80s ghetto blaster would be cool
 
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Oh, I forgot to mention. I got a RPI Zero 2 W from adafruit. I want to try some fun stuff with it, but after that I want to end up using it's gpio for making the front buttons work. Probably power it from the internal USB 3 header, if not a splice off the power supply. Voltage should be quite stable.

Ghetto Modding, this.

I love the idea and now I want something similar.

Tape deck would be good fun too. USB ports under those hatches? :D

Its also higher, you could probably fit full size stuff in there.
I have a vintage reel-to-reel tape recorder in the basement, but it's far too nice to tear apart for this, so I opted to buy the CD player.

Original I actually went to the Goodwill in search of a vcr since they are usually larger, but they didn't have any and this CD player is fairly large.
 
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Drill holes in the base?
Interesting build project. A masonite base board as you have there, surely no harm adding some air went through there also. Reminds me of old tube radios, they have the "backplane" perforated.
 
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Still waiting on the right angle power cord and slimline sata adapter, but I can work on the buttons now at least.
20211104_151743.jpg

I have seen some software that runs on Raspbian that should let me use the GPIO as a keyboard input for the CD player. I have a micro SD but am not sure how to write Raspbian to it since I can't find a micro SD to USB adapter for my computer. I did have one but it broke awhile back if I remember correctly. I could buy a micro SD to full size adapter and shove it in my laptop, but for the meantime, I was wondering...

Is there any way I can use an Android phone with a micro SD card slot to write the iso to the micro SD? Not sure how
 
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20211106_204730~2.jpg


20211106_205014.jpg

20211106_205619.jpg


20211106_200449.jpg
Got some stuff done!

1) Added hot glue to cover the ground screw.
2) Soldered a right angle power cable end onto the inside power cable. Helps clearance.
3) I trimmed down some plastic on the front bezel. This allows the fans to be mounted flatter. Unfortunately the fans have to be as exhaust. I flip them over as intake, the screw holes on that side of the fans have a bigger diameter which the screws cannot thread into. I figure some airflow is better than none, so I mounted them anyhow. Covered the bottom up with tape to make it look better.
4) Scratched out all of the traces on the front board and removed the extra components. Now I will just connect some wires to each button directly.

I have ordered a pin header to solder to the pi, and a micro SD to SD adapter so I can write Raspbian to the card.
 
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Next steps:

1) I need to make a platform for the optical drive that isn't cardboard so it can be mounted properly.
2) Modify the current PSU platform. Its currently on a block of wood, which can stay, but it just needs a way to be mounted to the PSU. I can mount it to the case by running some self tappers through the base of the unit.
3) Prepare the pi by soldering on the GPIO header and getting the appropriate software situated.
4) Wire the front buttons up to connectors that can hook onto the GPIO of the Pi

I will also check the thermals with the current fan configuration and see if they need some adjusting or if they are fine. If they aren't great, I will seek out a better low profile CPU cooler and some better case fans. After that I'll work on some tuning in bios. Undervolting CPU/IGPU, overclocking ram for better performance, tuning fan profiles.
 
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Yesterday didn't go so well.

Paint got ruined because of the information on the can not matching reality. It said "dry to touch in 20 minutes, safe to handle in 1 hour" I let it longer than that before flipping it over to paint, but it stuck to what it was setting on and ruined the paint.

Wire wheel and then some alcohol to prep, and paint again.

I went to solder the cable and the plastic holding in one pin melted, causing the pin to be at an odd angle. When I plugged in a cable it broke.

New day, new socket.

View attachment 222506

View attachment 222507

Black paint at least helps to hide my butchered IO cutout a bit. The cutout for the power cable came out nicer (still imperfect) since I had the proper tool for the job.
nice, but some components that not use much copper is harder to get soldered, maybe you could sandit a little and using flux
 
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Could have tried that, but I got it on second attempt. I'm using rasin core leaded solder which makes it easier a bit.

I just did a quick thermals test, and it's looking fairly grim. Better than before as It's not throttling, but the CPU alone runs 20c hotter with the lid on than off. The PSU fan is quieter now, but not idle.

I am going to try to make some changes to improve airflow further.
 
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Got the pi up and running with Raspbian and I think this would be what I need.

 
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