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CPU overheating

Jeff2.0

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Joined
May 25, 2021
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I built a new pc 3 days ago downloaded steam and windows played for like an hour. Had the computer on for like 3 hours total then started to play again my cpu then went up to like 98-100 degrees somehow.
changed thermal paste, updated bios, changed my fans, but nothing helps!

Took a regular kitchen thermometer and it shows around 30 degrees and the pump is cools also

spec
Corsair ql120 9 fans
Asus rog Maximus hero xii
Corsair rm750x power supply
Ssd 970 evo 500mb
4 tb barracuda
Nxzt z73 kraken 360mm
Intel i9 10850k
asus GeForce 12gb 3060 oc
Corsair vengeance rgb pro 32gb
 
Did you forget the power cord to the krakens AIO pump?
It'll use a SATA power connector
 
The sata power is plugged have changed slots in the sata too just in case something was wrong with it
 
Are you using software to check temps, or the Bios?
 
The kraken should have an RPM reading in the NZXT software, can you get readings from there?

If you're not getting readings from it (or they're too low) it may be a dead AIO
 
The kraken should have an RPM reading in the NZXT software, can you get readings from there?

If you're not getting readings from it (or they're too low) it may be a dead AIO
The Z series has a digital readout on the pump which should be accurate, perhaps it's in F not C.
 
The kraken should have an RPM reading in the NZXT software, can you get readings from there?

If you're not getting readings from it (or they're too low) it may be a dead AIO
Have not been able to read it now but can check later in bios maybe. The temps goes sky high on bios and kraken but I can’t feel anything when i touch around the cpu or put my hand on the cooler

The Z series has a digital readout on the pump which should be accurate, perhaps it's in F not C.
No the gpu reads perfect around 20-35 and cpu just goes up to 98 somehow
 
Did you use the correct spacers mounting the AIO, as the AMD spacers are a different size.
Remove the pump again and check the spread of thermal paste to ensure the contact was even.
 
Yeah, if you cant even load the BIOS stable and idle there then the pump isnt working, or its not mounted correctly.

Images of the system overall, and the AIO mounting would help here (Clear ones only, blurry ones will be useless)
 
Y
Yeah, if you cant even load the BIOS stable and idle there then the pump isnt working, or its not mounted correctly.

Images of the system overall, and the AIO mounting would help here (Clear ones only, blurry ones will be useless)
Yeah can post some pics later I ain’t at home right now but everything I can get help with is appreciated:)

Y

Yeah can post some pics later I ain’t at home right now but everything I can get help with is appreciated:)
86C64835-56D6-40E5-A95E-EADD86AE922F.jpeg

only have this atm
 
if you can run HWInfo later on monitor the pump speed.
my X73 died after one day, the replacement was sold.

the Pump was fixed to 90% and the RPM went all the way from 2200ish RPM down to 200, stuck there for 20-30 seconds and then it slowly went back up.

after a while the pump stopped completely for several minutes.
 
are the hoses to the CPU on the bottom? if so there is prolly an air bubble, they should be on the top.
 
every single case fan appears to be exhausting, which wont help things at all (doesnt explain the fast heat build up, but its another issue)
 
every single case fan appears to be exhausting, which wont help things at all (doesnt explain the fast heat build up, but its another issue)
Changed the 3 in the bottom after I also realized that

if you can run HWInfo later on monitor the pump speed.
my X73 died after one day, the replacement was sold.

the Pump was fixed to 90% and the RPM went all the way from 2200ish RPM down to 200, stuck there for 20-30 seconds and then it slowly went back up.

after a while the pump stopped completely for several minutes.
Yeah mine might be dead too the temp was good until like 1 day after
 
glad i am done with AIO crap.
a dead X73, a leaking H150i Pro XT... NH-D15 it is
 
Took a regular kitchen thermometer and it shows around 30 degrees
Where did you take this reading?

I would temporarily mount a conventional air heatsink fan assembly and see what your temps do.
 
I would temporarily mount a conventional air heatsink fan assembly and see what your temps do.
This

i found my 11700k runs fairly hot, even with a top of the line noctua brick on it, i can run high 40's at idle.
 
I know you said you changed the paste and so but.... You did think to check for a little plastic sheet on the bottom of the CPU block right?
If it's still there remove it, re-TIM (Paste) and that should do it.
 
I know you said you changed the paste and so but.... You did think to check for a little plastic sheet on the bottom of the CPU block right?
If it's still there remove it, re-TIM (Paste) and that should do it.
Yeah ive looked at it twice now but can’t see anything
 
i can run high 40's at idle.
But even that is nothing to be alarmed about since idle temps are very much dependent on ambient (room and/or case interior) temps. As long as the temps remain good when the processor is tasked, you are good to go.

I was wondering about that plastic sheet used to protect the mating surface too. Again, I recommend trying out an air cooler and take that opportunity to triple check to ensure any covering is removed.

Also remember, the most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact. The purpose of TIM (thermal interface material) is to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces to push out and prevent any insulating air from getting trapped between the device and its heatsink. Any excess TIM is actually in the way and counterproductive to the most efficient transfer of heat. A common mistake is to use too much TIM. You want a layer that is as thin as possible, while still providing complete coverage.
 
image.jpg

this is how it looks every time 1 min after I start it and the computer never shut down getting a lill confused what the problem is

But even that is nothing to be alarmed about since idle temps are very much dependent on ambient (room and/or case interior) temps. As long as the temps remain good when the processor is tasked, you are good to go.

I was wondering about that plastic sheet used to protect the mating surface too. Again, I recommend trying out an air cooler and take that opportunity to triple check to ensure any covering is removed.

Also remember, the most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact. The purpose of TIM (thermal interface material) is to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces to push out and prevent any insulating air from getting trapped between the device and its heatsink. Any excess TIM is actually in the way and counterproductive to the most efficient transfer of heat. A common mistake is to use too much TIM. You want a layer that is as thin as possible, while still providing complete coverage.
Have been taking the cooler of 3 times now and been trying different amount of thermal paste but nothing seems to work I’m stuck in a loop of shit
 
Have been taking the cooler of 3 times now and been trying different amount of thermal paste but nothing seems to work I’m stuck in a loop of shit
We are still at the same place, just treading water (pun intended). You need to try a different cooling solution. If still over heating with a different cooler, you might have a faulty CPU.
 
did ya change the water block orientation so the hoses enter at the top?


I still think its a water bubble.
 
No I haven’t but I will try it because one of the hoses is warm and the other isn’t

did ya change the water block orientation so the hoses enter at the top?


I still think its a water bubble.
So i get rid of the bubble if I place it in side mount instead
 
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