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Everytime i plug something into my wall, it stutters, and it never goes away

You need a line conditioner. Does the UPS have the feature? Some do not. Double conversion is not the same as line conditioning.
 
I am using a line mode already, i think is the line conditioner right?
Line mode I believe is protection against falling voltage, but doesn't condition the line.

Line conditioner will steady the current and prevent noise, spikes and droops with built in voltage regulators. It would eliminate all of that.

UPS is just a battery backup plan if the power shuts completely off.

The PSU in the PC simply converts your 220v to 12v and 5v mainly. But the power going in must be stable, the PSU doesn't line condition what's coming in.
 
Line mode I believe is protection against falling voltage, but doesn't condition the line.

Line conditioner will steady the current and prevent noise, spikes and droops with built in voltage regulators. It would eliminate all of that.

UPS is just a battery backup plan if the power shuts completely off.

The PSU in the PC simply converts your 220v to 12v and 5v mainly. But the power going in must be stable, the PSU doesn't line condition what's coming in.
so, should i buy a separate line conditioner then?
 
what kind of UPS do you have? you want to run it in "online" mode if your UPS can do that
1717343380367.png
 
what kind of UPS do you have? you want to run it in "online" mode if your UPS can do that
View attachment 349701
i have salicru pro twin double conversion 700w, i believe it has an online mode tho

Update: i moved my ps5 to my grandparents house and it seemed to do the same, just way less and the game felt better but there was something still wrong , even if both locations are far away, could it be that my electricity damaged the psu or something and now its doing this? its definetly not stutters from the game itself as its still unplayable and no one seems to experience this, i played last week in my friends pc and the game was so smooth so i have no idea what is wrong but im starting to desperate
 
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Did you ever fix this bud? are your stutters constant or a few times per game? do you have any videos of this happening please! i think i have a similar situation
 
Did you ever fix this bud? are your stutters constant or a few times per game? do you have any videos of this happening please! i think i have a similar situation
Have an electrician fix your circuits in your domicile
 
i have salicru pro twin double conversion 700w, i believe it has an online mode tho

I've had a quick look at the Salicru web site and it seems to be a good manufacturer. Much better than other much cheaper UPS suppliers.

Is this your UPS? I think it might have a pure sine wave output, given the low THD figures (2%/4%). Much better than simulated/quasi "sine" wave.
https://www.salicru.com/gb-en/slc-700-twin-pro2.html

For more isolation from mains disturbances, you should be running the UPS in double conversion mode, as shown in Salicru's diagram below.

To quote from their webiste:-

Online double-conversion
Maximum reliability, the loads are fed from the UPS output by a quality voltage isolated from possible fluctuations thanks to the unit's internal double conversion (AC-DC DC-AC).


Diagramas_On-Line_doble_conversion.png



If you have significant levels of EMI (e.g. voltage spikes) on your mains supply, avoid running the UPS in Eco-mode, because you probably lose most/all the filtering and decoupling provided by the built in inverter.

Eco-mode function
Loads working from the mains and only supported by the unit inverter when there are voltage/frequency fluctuations in the input line, with the resulting energy savings.
Diagramas_Eco_Mode.png


I tried to measure if there was any strong radio frequency with my phone, but i dont think its the most accurate tool to do it tbh

Agreed. This is the sort of kit and environment I used when testing for EMC/EMI compliance. A whole different ball park. The log periodic antenna aimed at the test bench probably measures frequencies in the range 1.5MHz to 1GHz. However, from your description, I think your problem is mostly Conducted Emissions (via the mains wiring) and not Radiated Emissions (radio waves), so messing around with a phone or AM radio isn't going to fix things (but I could be wrong).

iu



The next thing I'd try (as I'm a qualified EMC design engineer) is to introduce additional line filtering in the mains inputs to all your sensitive kit (PC and router). You might get away with not filtering your monitor. For professional systems, it's common to fit a line filter such as the Schaffner FN 343-1/05, rated at 10A 250V AC. This helps to reduce EMI generated by equipment from reaching the mains and EMI from the mains reaching the equipment.


iu


I might be inclined to fit a separate, lower-rated FN 2060-3-06, 3A 250V AC filter on the router, to isolate it from any EMI generated by the computer's ATX PSU.

These filters are quite expensive when ordered from official suppliers, but you can pick them up cheap on eBay.

A 10A filter should be sufficient for an ATX PSU operating in Spain at a nominal 220V 50Hz AC.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155032780629?_skw=schaffner+filter&itmmeta=01JC0N3VWFZZ4EG5B1VR62R0V6&hash=item2418ac7f55:g:LVcAAOSwS5lipFDQ&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKl3IMv7WuWioCrEGGa+ZPUkX2DUTQgXaUdzyqTDIBfYGY2dPHfsSL7TIg4tBRLqPhHHdklYfZXpjepU6fO9yu4MYDW0/FdPlMIgIuxU0GFBo2zJNLLPhAmOIu9YHsUvMWJ5XOa7a+KIrTz+fKuZVmTN2M3Gdfi3upsnHhC5Uut6TtvFuVY2K6/25WIQr1vhmgzctqoh9pB+fTpMlOxJ7C9tSZajvZrckbMogqcbUjM9ctYiZGFE16toxxixybYMBTQ=|tkp:Bk9SR6q-j5XgZA

A 3A filter should be OK for a router. Ditto for the monitor if you want to be thorough. Separate filters for each device.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324898886958?_skw=schaffner+filter&epid=1839382002&itmmeta=01JC0N3VWFGQ0S8EG9S9RGYGVK&hash=item4ba57b952e:g:lW0AAOSwUchhm2NG&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKlIwEN6dwDZM1iXc0JBhgA3H7BbTKqYyf0jpInCBIMN9reUAIlWQNS5yPWwsjQ30RJT3LelqaCka64lyfFlmVhKCTnbB3DN0EzYtiFmSeSymgpBuUO1YMBtMDQ4SS4Dj7Zhmdcqa3YLeTHQ6+mzGA+VX5kui6eP8BB4Tg04Tg0Kjbb15V4SKzmCXjKJp1+m6EqLo3rLQdDcVMTf+qvI01BZzhHe91D1UFBdHXSBulsKVE1jZzYGLYnQidIsHtwavMI=|tkp:Bk9SR6q-j5XgZA

IMPORTANT
For your own safety, get your electrician to wire these up in suitable enclosures/boxes. At roughly 12 Euros per filter, plus boxes and the electricians labour, it's worth a try and might reduce the interference.
 
The next thing I'd try (as I'm a qualified EMC design engineer) is to introduce additional line filtering in the mains inputs to all your sensitive kit (PC and router). You might get away with not filtering your monitor. For professional systems, it's common to fit a line filter such as the Schaffner FN 343-1/05, rated at 10A 250V AC. This helps to reduce EMI generated by equipment from reaching the mains and EMI from the mains reaching the equipment.
Fully agreed. An EMI filter once helped me to prevent occasional freezes on my router. I used it for the router exlusively. Home networking equipment usually comes with small and cheap wall power adapters with poor quality built-in filters, all of which do a magnificent work at emitting interference, and I correctly assumed they are sensitive to interference too.

And wow, that's some deluxe filter from Schffner, with a choke on the ground wire! I understand why it's beneficial but it's rare, and you won't find that on filters from Ebay.

As for the filters - if the OP decides to build one (or several), he can also look for versions with an IEC male connector, like these:
1730902009365.png

(My solution was to take this sort of filter and solder a 2-terminal power socket at the other end, then wrap it in a lot of electrical tape. The router's power adapter plugged directly into that. A dirty hack, I know, but EMI-wise it was clean enough).
 
Honestly i would give the power company a good nice long call. This should not be happening at all.
 
Honestly i would give the power company a good nice long call. This should not be happening at all.
Best of luck. You might have to wait years for a positive result. The power company would have to spend time and money tracing the source(s), politely ask the owner(s) to modify or stop using their noisy equipment, then take them to court if they refused or cut off their supply.

Poorly designed or badly maintained industrial machinery can "chew holes" in local mains. Smaller items such as air conditioners and freezers can generate interference. Expecting an energy supplier to fulfill the terms of their contract 100% is wishful thinking.

There is also the question of the electric wiring inside the block of flats and the provision of an adequate safety earth, especially if the OP is living on the 12th floor. If either of these is deficient, I might require remedial action by the building's owner and partial rewiring. It's not going to happen overnight, if ever.

There are times when you have to take matters in hand yourself, and find a practical solution that alleviates the problem. Fitting a few €12 filters is at least a starting point. It might have zero effect, or it might provide a partial cure. No knowing until you try and much quicker than waiting for other people.

Update: i moved my ps5 to my grandparents house and it seemed to do the same, just way less and the game felt better but there was something still wrong
Question. Do you get the same problem with all games on the PS5, or just a few, or just one. Moving to your grandparent's house has made a difference (possibly due to a less noisy mains supply) but you still have a few problems, which might just be down to bugs in a specific game.

could it be that my electricity damaged the psu or something and now its doing this?
Vaguely possible, but very difficult to tell without returning the PS5 to the manufacturer or a skilled technician used to repairing PS5s. Power supplies are failrly tolerant of mains borne noise without dying. Better PSUs include an MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) which clamps short duration high voltage spikes. Hit them with enough spikes and the MOV can eventually degrade or fail. You also find them in some surge arrester mains socket strips.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor
800px-Varistor_S14K385_photo.jpg


The bad news is that if your PSU needs repairing, it's a job for a qualified technician, not for inexperienced/incompetent foolish people. Do not be tempted to open any mains PSU. Some members on other forums issue dire warnings that computer PSUs retain a lethal charge, years after switching them off. More experienced design engineers and repair technicians know bulk electrolytic capacitors on the HT side in a home computer PSU usually discharge below the SELV limit in (typically) less than 30 minutes. In any case, they have job experience and avoid touching the high voltage circuits, before using a device to safely discharge any remaining charge on the bulk electrolytic.

If ATX and PS5 PSUs were 100% lethal when opened, you'd never see reviews on TechPowerUp, Tom's Hardware, etc., where the reviewer unsolders the 400V bulk capacitor from the PCB to get a clearer view and take photographs inside the chassis.

its definetly not stutters from the game itself as its still unplayable
I get the impression there's a significant difference between "stutters" and whatever makes your game "unplayable". By stutters I assume you mean very short duration pauses in the game. By unplayable I assume you mean the game locks up and freezes or crashes completely. Not being a PS5 owner, can I ask if the game is easily copied to another PS5, to see if it's buggy game software or a PS5 hardware fault.

Do you store games in an SSD inside the PS5. If so, the SSD might be faulty and in need of replacement. Presumably there are ways to check the SSD for errors, either inside the PS5, or outside when attached to a test system to perform S.M.A.R.T. checks.

I played last week in my friends pc and the game was so smooth
Were you playing a game stored on your friend's PC? If so, it's not really a valid test. All it shows is the game (same game as on your PS5 or on your computer?) works OK on his system. He might have a faster computer with a better GPU. He might have a more stable mains supply. He probably has an SSD with no errors. The list of differences goes on.

An acid test would be to transport your computer over to his house/flat, but that still wouldn't test your router. You've presumably tested your PS5 at his place?
 
Did you ever fix this bud? are your stutters constant or a few times per game? do you have any videos of this happening please! i think i have a similar situation
Nope, at this point i pretty much just gave up, tried pretty much everything tho, nothing helped, stutters are constant however if im connected to the ups it just feels as if the game was laggy, with like some animations in a kind of slow motion sometimes, really heavy camera sensation (as if you were in playing on unstable 30 fps constantly) and also some stutters in demanding moments. The problem wont go away even if you plug it in another house it will just feel like the ups sensation but without actually using it. Also when i used the ups in my home performance was pretty inconsistent in every game, there was some good days where it was bad, but playeable and there was some days when it was literally impossible to play, only thing i discovered since this last months its that for some reason it also affects your router since one day my game was feeling really bad, reseted the router and after 10 mins it was still bad, but felt way better, in another home far away from each other but in the same city) the issue is still there, however it does not variate as in my house so im pretty sure its just because this thing caused some kind of damage to the pc components. In January it will be my last attempt i will try to send my pc to repair and just play on my grandmas house. If it doesnt work i wont know what to say anymore man

Honestly i would give the power company a good nice long call. This should not be happening at all.
Well i did, the thing is, everything else in the bulding is working "correctly" so they just dont seem to care enough, i called an electrician to check aswell and he suspected there could be some kind of voltage drops that affect sensivitive equipment, he suggested me to try use a battery as a way power my pc, but other than that, he was told me that most likely nothing else can be done

I've had a quick look at the Salicru web site and it seems to be a good manufacturer. Much better than other much cheaper UPS suppliers.

Is this your UPS? I think it might have a pure sine wave output, given the low THD figures (2%/4%). Much better than simulated/quasi "sine" wave.
https://www.salicru.com/gb-en/slc-700-twin-pro2.html

For more isolation from mains disturbances, you should be running the UPS in double conversion mode, as shown in Salicru's diagram below.

To quote from their webiste:-

Online double-conversion
Maximum reliability, the loads are fed from the UPS output by a quality voltage isolated from possible fluctuations thanks to the unit's internal double conversion (AC-DC DC-AC).


Diagramas_On-Line_doble_conversion.png



If you have significant levels of EMI (e.g. voltage spikes) on your mains supply, avoid running the UPS in Eco-mode, because you probably lose most/all the filtering and decoupling provided by the built in inverter.

Eco-mode function
Loads working from the mains and only supported by the unit inverter when there are voltage/frequency fluctuations in the input line, with the resulting energy savings.
Diagramas_Eco_Mode.png




Agreed. This is the sort of kit and environment I used when testing for EMC/EMI compliance. A whole different ball park. The log periodic antenna aimed at the test bench probably measures frequencies in the range 1.5MHz to 1GHz. However, from your description, I think your problem is mostly Conducted Emissions (via the mains wiring) and not Radiated Emissions (radio waves), so messing around with a phone or AM radio isn't going to fix things (but I could be wrong).

iu



The next thing I'd try (as I'm a qualified EMC design engineer) is to introduce additional line filtering in the mains inputs to all your sensitive kit (PC and router). You might get away with not filtering your monitor. For professional systems, it's common to fit a line filter such as the Schaffner FN 343-1/05, rated at 10A 250V AC. This helps to reduce EMI generated by equipment from reaching the mains and EMI from the mains reaching the equipment.


iu


I might be inclined to fit a separate, lower-rated FN 2060-3-06, 3A 250V AC filter on the router, to isolate it from any EMI generated by the computer's ATX PSU.

These filters are quite expensive when ordered from official suppliers, but you can pick them up cheap on eBay.

A 10A filter should be sufficient for an ATX PSU operating in Spain at a nominal 220V 50Hz AC.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155032780629?_skw=schaffner+filter&itmmeta=01JC0N3VWFZZ4EG5B1VR62R0V6&hash=item2418ac7f55:g:LVcAAOSwS5lipFDQ&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKl3IMv7WuWioCrEGGa+ZPUkX2DUTQgXaUdzyqTDIBfYGY2dPHfsSL7TIg4tBRLqPhHHdklYfZXpjepU6fO9yu4MYDW0/FdPlMIgIuxU0GFBo2zJNLLPhAmOIu9YHsUvMWJ5XOa7a+KIrTz+fKuZVmTN2M3Gdfi3upsnHhC5Uut6TtvFuVY2K6/25WIQr1vhmgzctqoh9pB+fTpMlOxJ7C9tSZajvZrckbMogqcbUjM9ctYiZGFE16toxxixybYMBTQ=|tkp:Bk9SR6q-j5XgZA

A 3A filter should be OK for a router. Ditto for the monitor if you want to be thorough. Separate filters for each device.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324898886958?_skw=schaffner+filter&epid=1839382002&itmmeta=01JC0N3VWFGQ0S8EG9S9RGYGVK&hash=item4ba57b952e:g:lW0AAOSwUchhm2NG&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKlIwEN6dwDZM1iXc0JBhgA3H7BbTKqYyf0jpInCBIMN9reUAIlWQNS5yPWwsjQ30RJT3LelqaCka64lyfFlmVhKCTnbB3DN0EzYtiFmSeSymgpBuUO1YMBtMDQ4SS4Dj7Zhmdcqa3YLeTHQ6+mzGA+VX5kui6eP8BB4Tg04Tg0Kjbb15V4SKzmCXjKJp1+m6EqLo3rLQdDcVMTf+qvI01BZzhHe91D1UFBdHXSBulsKVE1jZzYGLYnQidIsHtwavMI=|tkp:Bk9SR6q-j5XgZA

IMPORTANT
For your own safety, get your electrician to wire these up in suitable enclosures/boxes. At roughly 12 Euros per filter, plus boxes and the electricians labour, it's worth a try and might reduce the interference.
Thank you so much, i might have to try this out before giving up completely, however , after carrying my pc to other peoples houses, i think its also damaged, so i dont know how if it could be repaired without changing pretty much the whole pc components, do you also know how a router can also affect it? Sometimes when i unplug it and plug it it gets slightly better, its not good but its still a notable difference.

Best of luck. You might have to wait years for a positive result. The power company would have to spend time and money tracing the source(s), politely ask the owner(s) to modify or stop using their noisy equipment, then take them to court if they refused or cut off their supply.

Poorly designed or badly maintained industrial machinery can "chew holes" in local mains. Smaller items such as air conditioners and freezers can generate interference. Expecting an energy supplier to fulfill the terms of their contract 100% is wishful thinking.

There is also the question of the electric wiring inside the block of flats and the provision of an adequate safety earth, especially if the OP is living on the 12th floor. If either of these is deficient, I might require remedial action by the building's owner and partial rewiring. It's not going to happen overnight, if ever.

There are times when you have to take matters in hand yourself, and find a practical solution that alleviates the problem. Fitting a few €12 filters is at least a starting point. It might have zero effect, or it might provide a partial cure. No knowing until you try and much quicker than waiting for other people.


Question. Do you get the same problem with all games on the PS5, or just a few, or just one. Moving to your grandparent's house has made a difference (possibly due to a less noisy mains supply) but you still have a few problems, which might just be down to bugs in a specific game.


Vaguely possible, but very difficult to tell without returning the PS5 to the manufacturer or a skilled technician used to repairing PS5s. Power supplies are failrly tolerant of mains borne noise without dying. Better PSUs include an MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) which clamps short duration high voltage spikes. Hit them with enough spikes and the MOV can eventually degrade or fail. You also find them in some surge arrester mains socket strips.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor
800px-Varistor_S14K385_photo.jpg


The bad news is that if your PSU needs repairing, it's a job for a qualified technician, not for inexperienced/incompetent foolish people. Do not be tempted to open any mains PSU. Some members on other forums issue dire warnings that computer PSUs retain a lethal charge, years after switching them off. More experienced design engineers and repair technicians know bulk electrolytic capacitors on the HT side in a home computer PSU usually discharge below the SELV limit in (typically) less than 30 minutes. In any case, they have job experience and avoid touching the high voltage circuits, before using a device to safely discharge any remaining charge on the bulk electrolytic.

If ATX and PS5 PSUs were 100% lethal when opened, you'd never see reviews on TechPowerUp, Tom's Hardware, etc., where the reviewer unsolders the 400V bulk capacitor from the PCB to get a clearer view and take photographs inside the chassis.


I get the impression there's a significant difference between "stutters" and whatever makes your game "unplayable". By stutters I assume you mean very short duration pauses in the game. By unplayable I assume you mean the game locks up and freezes or crashes completely. Not being a PS5 owner, can I ask if the game is easily copied to another PS5, to see if it's buggy game software or a PS5 hardware fault.

Do you store games in an SSD inside the PS5. If so, the SSD might be faulty and in need of replacement. Presumably there are ways to check the SSD for errors, either inside the PS5, or outside when attached to a test system to perform S.M.A.R.T. checks.


Were you playing a game stored on your friend's PC? If so, it's not really a valid test. All it shows is the game (same game as on your PS5 or on your computer?) works OK on his system. He might have a faster computer with a better GPU. He might have a more stable mains supply. He probably has an SSD with no errors. The list of differences goes on.

An acid test would be to transport your computer over to his house/flat, but that still wouldn't test your router. You've presumably tested your PS5 at his place?
Thank you for sharing this, i get this problem with a few games, not just one, and they are not reported problems, so it cant be bugs, i mean, u can watch the gameplay and see pretty clearly that something is just wrong (stutters freezes, animations like in slowmo or laggy sometimes, the game feels like 30fps, etc) in my friends ps5 the game is smooth as it should be. As long as i am aware i store them in the ssd yes, i could try check for errors aswell. My friend has a worse pc and a worse cpu, actually way worse, and same brand, i installed the game in his pc for 1 day and tried, and the game was smooth. As i said, moving the pc or ps5 doesnt fix the problem, however it makes the game feel better, so i suspect they are damaged, but i dont really know, in january i will try to see if a technician can spot something bad on my pc and try to fix it so atleast i will be able to play ocassionally in my grandparents house.
 
in my friends ps5 the game is smooth as it should be.
Are you both running exactly the same model PS5 with the same version of firmware/BIOS/operating system (you can tell I've not used a PS5). I'm still not 100% convinced your PS5 and computer have both suffered physical damage from "bad" mains. The forums are full of people with stuttering games. Sometimes the solution is to change some obscure setting buried deep inside the Windows Registry. As for the PS5, perhaps you can seek help on PS5 forums?

Check your friend's computer and see if you're both running an nVidia GPU, or you're both running an AMD GPU. It doesn't matter if they're different models, they just need to be from the same company. If so, check to see if you both have exactly the same video card driver. If you are running the same version, that probably rules out a possible problem due to out-of-date drivers. NVidia and AMD update their Gaming drivers frequently, but their more stable studio/pro drivers are updated less frequently. Regardless of what GPU card you have, update to the latest driver if necessary.
https://www.nvidia.com/en-gb/geforce/drivers/
https://www.amd.com/en/support/download/drivers.html

I can't remember without going back through the entire post if you've checked your computer's RAM with MemTest86, but if not, it's worth a try. Run a full MemTest86 (several hours). I'd also try something like FurMark to stress test your GPU for a short period. You could check all your disk drives with CHKDSK. Run SFC /Scannow and DISM for good measure.

https://www.memtest86.com/
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/furmark/
https://www.howtogeek.com/1033/how-to-use-chkdsk-on-windows/
https://www.howtogeek.com/222532/ho...-system-files-with-the-sfc-and-dism-commands/
https://www.thewindowsclub.com/component-store-corruption-repair-windows-image

Apart from stuttering in games, does your computer perform 100% on all other programs/apps? In other words, do you experience stuttering when playing back YouTube videos or web browsing? To stress the CPU, try Zipping a large folder full of files with WinRAR or WinZip. 10GB of files should be enough. Another good program to stress the computer outside of gaming is Handbrake, during video convertion. For example, you could try converting a video from 1080p to 720p. It doesn't matter what you video formats you convert from/to. Just pick a video of over 20 minutes duration for conversion. Handbrake and WinZip push your CPU to nearly 100% on all cores and are probably more realistic of "normal" use, than running a "true" stress test program (I use AIDA64's stress test occasionally).
https://www.win-rar.com/start.html?&L=0
https://handbrake.fr/

If I had this problem, I'd slowly swap parts from another machine (CPU, RAM, GPU, PSU, motherboard, disk drives) and see what happens. I might even clone the drive(s) in the faulty computer and boot them up in a completely different machine, to (hopefully) see if the problem was Windows/Game based, or hardware based. Easy enough if you have a bunch of suitable old machines lying around, but very difficult if this is your only machine.

If your friend agrees and you can find a spare drive to clone your Windows + game drive, disconnect all the drives in your friend's computer and plug in your cloned drive (do not do this with your normal drive - use a clone). It will take a few minutes for Windows to load drivers for all the new hardware found, but if successful, you can then run your Windows + game on your friend's hardware. If your cloned disk works perfectly on your friend's machine, it's possible some of your computer's components are damaged. You won't be able to prove 100% Windows on your cloned disc is not corrupted in any way, because its Registry will be changed as soon as Windows detects your friend's new hardware. These Registry changes might "fix" the problem, but only when the disc is in your friend's computer. It all gets horribly confusing.

At least something to think about before getting a new machine next year.
 
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Well this gonna be funny saying this because I have been railing against it since I switched back to AMD. I would check in your BIOS for Spread Spectrum and enable it if it's not already. It's a rather old setting that is meant for offices with many computers in close proximity, Basically it makes your clocks " wobble" to prevent "sympathetic interference" of everything being on the same frequency/circuits. If it is in fact an electrical interference issue this could possible "isolate" your PC better. I mean it's kind of a long shot but it's purpose seems worth trying and it won't really hurt anything either way(unless you have a sound card, they HATE Spread Spectrums "wobble")
Anyways I am just putting out something to try
 
Well this gonna be funny saying this because I have been railing against it since I switched back to AMD. I would check in your BIOS for Spread Spectrum and enable it if it's not already. It's a rather old setting that is meant for offices with many computers in close proximity, Basically it makes your clocks " wobble" to prevent "sympathetic interference" of everything being on the same frequency/circuits. If it is in fact an electrical interference issue this could possible "isolate" your PC better. I mean it's kind of a long shot but it's purpose seems worth trying and it won't really hurt anything either way(unless you have a sound card, they HATE Spread Spectrums "wobble")
Anyways I am just putting out something to try
I haven't seen that setting in ages it makes me think it is enabled by default now to prevent emi...
 
Are you both running exactly the same model PS5 with the same version of firmware/BIOS/operating system (you can tell I've not used a PS5). I'm still not 100% convinced your PS5 and computer have both suffered physical damage from "bad" mains. The forums are full of people with stuttering games. Sometimes the solution is to change some obscure setting buried deep inside the Windows Registry. As for the PS5, perhaps you can seek help on PS5 forums?

Check your friend's computer and see if you're both running an nVidia GPU, or you're both running an AMD GPU. It doesn't matter if they're different models, they just need to be from the same company. If so, check to see if you both have exactly the same video card driver. If you are running the same version, that probably rules out a possible problem due to out-of-date drivers. NVidia and AMD update their Gaming drivers frequently, but their more stable studio/pro drivers are updated less frequently. Regardless of what GPU card you have, update to the latest driver if necessary.
https://www.nvidia.com/en-gb/geforce/drivers/
https://www.amd.com/en/support/download/drivers.html

I can't remember without going back through the entire post if you've checked your computer's RAM with MemTest86, but if not, it's worth a try. Run a full MemTest86 (several hours). I'd also try something like FurMark to stress test your GPU for a short period. You could check all your disk drives with CHKDSK. Run SFC /Scannow and DISM for good measure.

https://www.memtest86.com/
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/furmark/
https://www.howtogeek.com/1033/how-to-use-chkdsk-on-windows/
https://www.howtogeek.com/222532/ho...-system-files-with-the-sfc-and-dism-commands/
https://www.thewindowsclub.com/component-store-corruption-repair-windows-image

Apart from stuttering in games, does your computer perform 100% on all other programs/apps? In other words, do you experience stuttering when playing back YouTube videos or web browsing? To stress the CPU, try Zipping a large folder full of files with WinRAR or WinZip. 10GB of files should be enough. Another good program to stress the computer outside of gaming is Handbrake, during video convertion. For example, you could try converting a video from 1080p to 720p. It doesn't matter what you video formats you convert from/to. Just pick a video of over 20 minutes duration for conversion. Handbrake and WinZip push your CPU to nearly 100% on all cores and are probably more realistic of "normal" use, than running a "true" stress test program (I use AIDA64's stress test occasionally).
https://www.win-rar.com/start.html?&L=0
https://handbrake.fr/

If I had this problem, I'd slowly swap parts from another machine (CPU, RAM, GPU, PSU, motherboard, disk drives) and see what happens. I might even clone the drive(s) in the faulty computer and boot them up in a completely different machine, to (hopefully) see if the problem was Windows/Game based, or hardware based. Easy enough if you have a bunch of suitable old machines lying around, but very difficult if this is your only machine.

If your friend agrees and you can find a spare drive to clone your Windows + game drive, disconnect all the drives in your friend's computer and plug in your cloned drive (do not do this with your normal drive - use a clone). It will take a few minutes for Windows to load drivers for all the new hardware found, but if successful, you can then run your Windows + game on your friend's hardware. If your cloned disk works perfectly on your friend's machine, it's possible some of your computer's components are damaged. You won't be able to prove 100% Windows on your cloned disc is not corrupted in any way, because its Registry will be changed as soon as Windows detects your friend's new hardware. These Registry changes might "fix" the problem, but only when the disc is in your friend's computer. It all gets horribly confusing.

At least something to think about before getting a new machine next year.
Yes, i have terrible stutters in all of my machines, i dont think its just coincidence, before i came to this forum i tried pretty much everything, from drivers, to 1000 more things, at this point im pretty sure there is physical damage, on Saturday im going to buy a new ps5 and try it on my grandmas house, ill let you guys know. About the part of swapping parts, i am planning to do that but for now ill just try with the ps5 first, because as i have said, i tried pretty much everything to keep playing

Well this gonna be funny saying this because I have been railing against it since I switched back to AMD. I would check in your BIOS for Spread Spectrum and enable it if it's not already. It's a rather old setting that is meant for offices with many computers in close proximity, Basically it makes your clocks " wobble" to prevent "sympathetic interference" of everything being on the same frequency/circuits. If it is in fact an electrical interference issue this could possible "isolate" your PC better. I mean it's kind of a long shot but it's purpose seems worth trying and it won't really hurt anything either way(unless you have a sound card, they HATE Spread Spectrums "wobble")
Anyways I am just putting out something to try
I checked and its enabled, thanks anyways

Are you both running exactly the same model PS5 with the same version of firmware/BIOS/operating system (you can tell I've not used a PS5). I'm still not 100% convinced your PS5 and computer have both suffered physical damage from "bad" mains. The forums are full of people with stuttering games. Sometimes the solution is to change some obscure setting buried deep inside the Windows Registry. As for the PS5, perhaps you can seek help on PS5 forums?

Check your friend's computer and see if you're both running an nVidia GPU, or you're both running an AMD GPU. It doesn't matter if they're different models, they just need to be from the same company. If so, check to see if you both have exactly the same video card driver. If you are running the same version, that probably rules out a possible problem due to out-of-date drivers. NVidia and AMD update their Gaming drivers frequently, but their more stable studio/pro drivers are updated less frequently. Regardless of what GPU card you have, update to the latest driver if necessary.
https://www.nvidia.com/en-gb/geforce/drivers/
https://www.amd.com/en/support/download/drivers.html

I can't remember without going back through the entire post if you've checked your computer's RAM with MemTest86, but if not, it's worth a try. Run a full MemTest86 (several hours). I'd also try something like FurMark to stress test your GPU for a short period. You could check all your disk drives with CHKDSK. Run SFC /Scannow and DISM for good measure.

https://www.memtest86.com/
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/furmark/
https://www.howtogeek.com/1033/how-to-use-chkdsk-on-windows/
https://www.howtogeek.com/222532/ho...-system-files-with-the-sfc-and-dism-commands/
https://www.thewindowsclub.com/component-store-corruption-repair-windows-image

Apart from stuttering in games, does your computer perform 100% on all other programs/apps? In other words, do you experience stuttering when playing back YouTube videos or web browsing? To stress the CPU, try Zipping a large folder full of files with WinRAR or WinZip. 10GB of files should be enough. Another good program to stress the computer outside of gaming is Handbrake, during video convertion. For example, you could try converting a video from 1080p to 720p. It doesn't matter what you video formats you convert from/to. Just pick a video of over 20 minutes duration for conversion. Handbrake and WinZip push your CPU to nearly 100% on all cores and are probably more realistic of "normal" use, than running a "true" stress test program (I use AIDA64's stress test occasionally).
https://www.win-rar.com/start.html?&L=0
https://handbrake.fr/

If I had this problem, I'd slowly swap parts from another machine (CPU, RAM, GPU, PSU, motherboard, disk drives) and see what happens. I might even clone the drive(s) in the faulty computer and boot them up in a completely different machine, to (hopefully) see if the problem was Windows/Game based, or hardware based. Easy enough if you have a bunch of suitable old machines lying around, but very difficult if this is your only machine.

If your friend agrees and you can find a spare drive to clone your Windows + game drive, disconnect all the drives in your friend's computer and plug in your cloned drive (do not do this with your normal drive - use a clone). It will take a few minutes for Windows to load drivers for all the new hardware found, but if successful, you can then run your Windows + game on your friend's hardware. If your cloned disk works perfectly on your friend's machine, it's possible some of your computer's components are damaged. You won't be able to prove 100% Windows on your cloned disc is not corrupted in any way, because its Registry will be changed as soon as Windows detects your friend's new hardware. These Registry changes might "fix" the problem, but only when the disc is in your friend's computer. It all gets horribly confusing.

At least something to think about before getting a new machine next year.
I do experience some kind of stutters while web browsing (mb like a stutter every 10 mins or so), but i have not noticed something unsual when watching videos etc, its mostly when i play games(even low spec needed ones) and its like when fps drop (even a bit) i experience a massive stutter for some reason, its weird, i could try to stress the gpu thr way u said, ill let u know when im on the pc, however i tried a lot of stress test and memtest and it was "normal" before, so no idea
 
I haven't seen that setting in ages it makes me think it is enabled by default now to prevent emi...
No kidding but it’s in there and it’s on by default and was ready to smash my sound card until I made the connection. Sound cards don’t like “wobble”
 
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