Ghetto Mods

[Count von Schwalbe]

Wire nuts will not be conducting any electricity if installed correctly. They are superior to electrical tape because they are more consistent. If you only used one layer of electrical tape, it would be much more hazardous than a wire nut. Wire nuts also fall off with a gentle tug if not installed correctly. That being said, I hate wire nuts with a consuming passion. Push-to-connects are far superior for solid wire.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

Push-to-connects are far superior for solid wire.

But a pain in the arse with stranded, have to go round crimping everything with ferrules when you might aswell just crimp from the get go. It seems many manufacturers are pushing push to connects now which is obviously a massive time saver and going to be popular with electricians but personally I don't think you can beat a torque driver and a mechanical connection for sockets and switches.

 

[Count von Schwalbe]

But a pain in the arse with stranded, have to go round crimping everything with ferrules when you might aswell just crimp from the get go. It seems many manufacturers are pushing push to connects now which is obviously a massive time saver and going to be popular with electricians but personally I don't think you can beat a torque driver and a mechanical connection for sockets and switches.

True, and I agree about the sockets and switches. But, a push-to-connect is superior to a wire nut for wire to wire.connections, and a terminal block if you need stranded wire. However, most construction wiring where soldering is not acceptable will be solid wire (at least where I live).

 

[80251]

Wire nuts will not be conducting any electricity if installed correctly. They are superior to electrical tape because they are more consistent. If you only used one layer of electrical tape, it would be much more hazardous than a wire nut. Wire nuts also fall off with a gentle tug if not installed correctly. That being said, I hate wire nuts with a consuming passion. Push-to-connects are far superior for solid wire.

The wire nuts I've seen all have a Cu interior. They seem pretty cheesy to me in any event.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

The cables were tapped well I should add I pulled it off to cut the one cable as it was pretty short already maybe that's why he put so many joins in it a mix of that and not understanding there's terminals under the ceramic fitting if you unscrew it.

They use plenty of tape generally here because it's so cheap I think it works out at about 10pence a roll. I tend to use the cheap wago blocks from China no way they will work at the rated 32amp they have on them but a 1amp lighting circuit should be fine.

 

[Valantar]

This video seems highly relevant to the interests of people posting here.

(plz ignore the clickbaity title card, it's quite informative and there's a lot of interesting testing in there)

 

[ThaiTaffy]

This video seems highly relevant to the interests of people posting here.

(plz ignore the clickbaity title card, it's quite informative and there's a lot of interesting testing in there)

I enjoy watching great Scott he's done alot of great videos

 

[80251]

@Valantar
I was surprised the wire nut test exhibited a lot less resistance than the wago connectors.

 

[Mussels]

This video seems highly relevant to the interests of people posting here.

(plz ignore the clickbaity title card, it's quite informative and there's a lot of interesting testing in there)

I've never seen those WAGO connectors before, but they seem friggin useful and i want some

 

[micropage7]

i got yashica 50mm and this lens has pin on the back of the lens to activate the aperture, without pressing the pin, it will stay on f1.7
first my plan is cut a little the back of the lens so i can slip a wire so activate the pin, but after minutes of trying and it doesn't work at all i decided to cut it near the pin.
opening the lens is not an option for me
but after i cut about 1 point some i realize i might break something if i go further, i just stopped and the pin just stuck there, so i don't need to push it again, then i applied glue on that position to lock the pin and i will leave for 3x24 hours for the glue to fix completely

i know it looks annoying

 

[ThaiTaffy]

I've never seen those WAGO connectors before, but they seem friggin useful and i want some

Game changer!!!

 

[Mussels]

Do they have really compact ones for lower amperage?

Could be useful with some PC modding crap i do, converting ARGB between brands and such - i hate soldering and i'm shit at it

 

[ThaiTaffy]

Do they have really compact ones for lower amperage?

Could be useful with some PC modding crap i do, converting ARGB between brands and such - i hate soldering and i'm shit at it

I don't think so, but I use the regular one for "crap" like that as you put it. Not permanent but testing and such they're awesome.

 

[Count von Schwalbe]

I don't think so, but I use the regular one for "crap" like that as you put it. Not permanent but testing and such they're awesome.

Do they have really compact ones for lower amperage?

Could be useful with some PC modding crap i do, converting ARGB between brands and such - i hate soldering and i'm shit at it

They would be a little extensive for the job. Have you tried crimp connectors? They are almost as easy to use and work better for smaller work.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

@Valantar
I was surprised the wire nut test exhibited a lot less resistance than the wago connectors.

That's because the cables are in direct contact nothing to do with the wirenut, much the same as any other well twisted joint.
Every other connector uses the busbar principal where they supply a mechanical interface between conductors but the resistance boils down to how well said busbar conducts and how much surface area the mechanical connection can make.

They would be a little extensive for the job. Have you tried crimp connectors? They are almost as easy to use and work better for smaller work.

I second this crimps are just quicker and cheap, wago blocks are great for something temporary just testing if something works before you make it permanent.

 

[Athlonite]

For the WIN I give you the chocolate block connector

they'll do 3 ~150A

you can also cut to length from 1 to 20

 

[ThaiTaffy]

For the WIN I give you the chocolate block connector

they'll do 3 ~150A

you can also cut to length from 1 to 20

Yes terminal blocks are a staple but crimps and wago blocks are just more specialised where as these really are the best all rounder.

 

[rhkcommander959]

I use both nuts and wagos, nuts are best for amperage - they compress and twist the wires into each other so THEY carry the load, while wagos use a bus bar essentially. IMO Wagos for low load, nuts for low to moderate, and crimps for high. What I mean is Wago is fine for lights and stuff, nuts for average household breakers, and mains gets the crimps. Wire nuts aren't externally conductive, they have some here with a grommet end and are filled with dialectic grease or similar to make them more resilient vs liquid too.

I've never tried the flip lock wagos because I'm cheap, but it makes sense that press fit wago gets better connectivity since it bites in. You can reuse them still too if you twist the wire while pulling. I used wagos a ton when doing lighting and ballasts, the quick disconnects were awesome too on the ballast power.

Choco blocks are great too, as are regular terminal strips, but I reserve them for DC myself.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

I use both nuts and wagos, nuts are best for amperage - they compress and twist the wires into each other so THEY carry the load, while wagos use a bus bar essentially. IMO Wagos for low load, nuts for low to moderate, and crimps for high. What I mean is Wago is fine for lights and stuff, nuts for average household breakers, and mains gets the crimps. Wire nuts aren't externally conductive, they have some here with a grommet end and are filled with dialectic grease or similar to make them more resilient vs liquid too.

I've never tried the flip lock wagos because I'm cheap, but it makes sense that press fit wago gets better connectivity since it bites in. You can reuse them still too if you twist the wire while pulling. I used wagos a ton when doing lighting and ballasts, the quick disconnects were awesome too on the ballast power.

Choco blocks are great too, as are regular terminal strips, but I reserve them for DC myself.

Push wago's normally have a little hole you can slide a terminal or punch in that releases the tooth rather than twisting them out it also does less damage to the blade. I think the flip wago's I've used must work on a similar principle as they seem to bite also and not just clamp.

Whatever the case wago's I feel really have changed the game, crimps and terminal blocks are great and all but stuffing multiple cables into them is really bad practice, having a busbar you can connect high numbers of cables to is far far better for lighting circuits and low amperage control circuits with things like shared neutrals.

 

[Splinterdog]

A customer wired a 220v fan to his case and hooked the switch to the rear with bare copper wire and he wondered why he was having problems. Miraculously, no damage was done.

 

[lexluthermiester]

A customer wired a 220v fan to his case and hooked the switch to the rear with bare copper wire and he wondered why he was having problems. Miraculously, no damage was done.
View attachment 246160View attachment 246161View attachment 246162

The concept of short-circuits and wire insulation was beyond them...

 

[ThaiTaffy]

Sorry cross posting but I think it needs to be here more than the uk clubhouse I'll remove it from there after.

Using overhead lines to support a sign not sure if it's ghetto or just completely idiotic.

 

[Splinterdog]

Sorry cross posting but I think it needs to be here more than the uk clubhouse I'll remove it from there after.

Using overhead lines to support a sign not sure if it's ghetto or just completely idiotic.View attachment 246166

That's the kind of mod you would definitely see in Argentina.

 

[80251]

@Splinterdog

That's a pretty damn crazy (and dangerous) ghetto mod. I'm guessing it was less bravery and more ignorance on the part of the perp, but at least he was smart enough to put a fan guard over that finger chopper of a fan.

 

[micropage7]

the cheap utp cable actually is good but the wires are too thin to crimp so i pair that with normal utp cable then protect it with plastic snack bag

don't worry coz i put that indoor, so it's pretty safe