Ghetto Mods

[Mussels]

Now this is the way you should do it when you live in a hot climate all-year around...

View attachment 310914

(not my pic)

Only if you want dead hardware.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Only if you want dead hardware.

Why do you say that? Seems like a very good way to cool a PC.

 

[P4-630]

Why do you say that? Seems like a very good way to cool a PC.

They may be afraid of condensation?

 

[lexluthermiester]

They may be afraid of condensation?

Seems unlikely given the source of the air. Air that passes through an AC unit is drier than when it goes in, by design. If the only air going into that system is from the AC, then condensation is not a factor to be worried about.

 

[68Olds]

Seems unlikely given the source of the air. Air that passes through an AC unit is drier than when it goes in, by design. If the only air going into that system is from the AC, then condensation is not a factor to be worried about.

If you chill the interior of the PC to 50-55F (typical discharge air temps) then cycle off the compressor all the surfaces in the PC will sweat. If the compressor never stops, you're good.

 

[lexluthermiester]

If you chill the interior of the PC to 50-55F (typical discharge air temps) then cycle off the compressor all the surfaces in the PC will sweat. If the compressor never stops, you're good.

That would be true if you also shut off the source of the heat being cooled, IE, the PC itself. However, so long as the PC is operating and generating heat, condensation will not take place, regardless of the operational status of the compressor unit. In years past I actually tried this, with no ill effect. Granted, we were OCing Coppermine Celerons & Pentium3s and it was a window AC unit, but I digress.

A few years ago I decided to paint my Dell T3500 system. It didn't go well.. Very ghetto!

The paint didn't cure well and was blotchy. The photo above does not show well how bad it was.

I decided a few days ago that I was going to repaint it. To do so, had to strip the previous paint off. However, during that process, I realized that the brushed look I had happened upon as a result of the stripping and scraping process really looks good. I liked it so much that I finished stripping it down and then just covered it with a gloss clear coat. I think it looks good!

I detailed it with some brass coloured paint, otherwise it's just the bare metal and a gloss coat. Wish I had done this originally! As ghetto as the first paint job was, this turned out well!

 

[Mussels]

Seems unlikely given the source of the air. Air that passes through an AC unit is drier than when it goes in, by design. If the only air going into that system is from the AC, then condensation is not a factor to be worried about.

That's not how condensation works.
Anything colder than ambient attracts moisture


The PC would have to be airtight and thermally insulated from the surrounding environment completely.

However, so long as the PC is operating and generating heat, condensation will not take place

go look up anything on PC's cooled with a TEC or LN2 and you'll find that's absolutely not true.
It's like you've been on a kick lately, this is thread 3? 4? That you've derailed by arguing pointlessly about something I've quoted with zero evidence to back up anything you're saying.

 

[Beginner Macro Device]

Decided to a little bit unghetto my GPU cooling system. Now the last step is to build a case and mount everything together.

Spoiler: Before

Spoiler: After

Thermals are not precisely sweet as it gets over 100C in hotspot if overclocked. But I use it undervolted so I'll never see temps over 82C (hotspot). Coolers are now with variable speed and provide with absolute silence compared to the rest of the system so my GPU is currently a darn quiet x-mas tree.

Currently mounted with shoelaces and stabilised with duct tape. I know, I know but it's ghetto mods thread after all.

 

[Mussels]

Feels ghetto, i'm attempting to re-test a 2500k in 2023, the ghetto part is making all my spare watercooling parts work together.

My phone camera hates the LED roof lights I have here - need a lamp.

12 years old and the thermal pad was still soft and springy.

Lost my intel CPU block AND cut my thumb open, but woooaaaah, we're halfway there

Long ago, on a far better board I managed 5.2GHz off this chip (stable enough for CPU-Z, at least) and this ram achieved 2000 on a 3570K on this board so I should be able to get some decent values to compare it to modern hardware. I can slap my 3070 in there for laughs.

Oh and i ran out of 120mm fans, which is funny. I'll have to take some from another machine, swap for the spare 140mms i have if they fit.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Feels ghetto, i'm attempting to re-test a 2500k in 2023, the ghetto part is making all my spare watercooling parts work together.

My phone camera hates the LED roof lights I have here - need a lamp.
View attachment 311673View attachment 311674

12 years old and the thermal pad was still soft and springy.
View attachment 311675

Lost my intel CPU block AND cut my thumb open, but woooaaaah, we're halfway there
View attachment 311676

Long ago, on a far better board I managed 5.2GHz off this chip (stable enough for CPU-Z, at least) and this ram achieved 2000 on a 3570K on this board so I should be able to get some decent values to compare it to modern hardware. I can slap my 3070 in there for laughs.

Oh and i ran out of 120mm fans, which is funny. I'll have to take some from another machine, swap for the spare 140mms i have if they fit.

That system would make a great base for a retro-xp system.

 

[Ahhzz]

That system would make a great base for a retro-xp system.

2500k? Pah. I ran mine for 9 years, that thing's a MONSTER

 

[lexluthermiester]

2500k? Pah. I ran mine for 9 years, that thing's a MONSTER

That's what I mean. The 2500k, matched up with a good card(say a GTX770) and 4GB of DDR3 1866, would make an excellent base for XP. Anything and everything that needs XP would run like crazy on it.

 

[Beginner Macro Device]

say a GTX770

You'd better get a GTX 950. Supported by Windows XP and 2.5 times less watt-hungry. Of course GTX 770 is faster but not by that much.

 

[micropage7]

just reusing old aluminum coins as heatsink, at least give them the 2nd life

so far so good keep the chip cool when running full speed

 

[lexluthermiester]

You'd better get a GTX 950. Supported by Windows XP and 2.5 times less watt-hungry. Of course GTX 770 is faster but not by that much.

A GTX960 would be better, but not faster. In XP, the GPU performance king was the GTX780, and the GTX770 is the best balance between performance and wattage..

 

[silentbogo]

just reusing old aluminum coins as heatsink, at least give them the 2nd life

Reminds me of penny-shims on my old XBox360 )))

That system would make a great base for a retro-xp system.

That system is wa-a-a-ay overkill for genuine "retro-xp" 32-bit experience. Heck, my temporary testbench at the office is pretty much identical to this (using an older ga-z68x-ud3-b3, though), all while I'm figuring out why my Supermicro Z170 decided to kick the bucket.

 

[lexluthermiester]

That system is wa-a-a-ay overkill for genuine "retro-xp" 32-bit experience

I know what you mean. However, there are some titles that were XP native where the plentiful performance is very useful. Crysis, Quake4, C&C3 and many others in highres(1080p) for example. At 720p a C2Q is enough, but an i5 really helps at 1080p.

 

[datnoz]

I used to have this hanging off of the 5.25 " drive bay in my focus g and i wasn't able to close it

 

[silentbogo]

I used to have this hanging off of the 5.25 " drive bay in my focus g and i wasn't able to close it

Might need to do the same for my trusty CM Cosmos. Original HDD/ODD rack was removed by a previous owner(he wanted a 360mm rad for his rig), but I want to put in few internal hotswap drive bays, so I can do data recovery/cloning as a normal human being, without a jungle of cables sticking out of the side. Old "factory" bays used to take up nearly 30% of internal space...

 

[Mussels]

Crazy people test their loops with the PSU. That's just dangerous.

Safe? Safe is an old UPS battery and a solar panel. Somehow.

Good old UPS-> molex adaptor, nothing beats that

The better version of this i had with a higher end board was given away as a birthday present, a 3570K at 4.4GHz with 32GB DDR3 2000
Even now in 2023 that still holds up well enough with a GTX 970 - not everyone plays badly optimised console games


VRM's were a bit different back then, the specs on these are interesting
40A each, 150c maximum - but 40W of heat output? Damned toasty if you reach those higher amperages.

Type Designator: RJK0393DPA
Type of Transistor: MOSFET
Type of Control Channel: N -Channel
Maximum Power Dissipation (Pd): 40 W
Maximum Drain-Source Voltage |Vds|: 30 V
Maximum Gate-Source Voltage |Vgs|: 20 V
Maximum Drain Current |Id|: 40 A
Maximum Junction Temperature (Tj): 150 °C
Rise Time (tr): 6 nS
Drain-Source Capacitance (Cd): 430 pF

And what rates em as a potential problem, as low as 50c they start losing capacity let alone that 120c maximum - 75c they're at half capacity. This would be the origin of "keep your VRM's under 80C"

 

[taka]

Since i got the Asus RTX 3070 my Audigy 5/RX started to receive a noise over 12V and 3.3V lines from the GPU coil whine.
So i decided to make an separate/external PSU/VRM for the audio card. I use an external power supply controlled by the PC with an relay to isolate the circuits. Only the ground is the same fo obvious reasons.

And 3 downsteps from 19V to 12v; 5v; 3.3v.

No more humming and other crap from internal components.

 

[Mussels]

That's ghetto... and sad it's even needed.

 

[Nuckles56]

I had big issues with a laptop charger, when hooked up to my parent's TV and stereo, where as soon as the laptop was plugged in, there was so much static coming through that it was unusable.

 

[Good Guru]

Check out this cool pic -

 

[P4-630]

Check out this cool pic - View attachment 311991

With chiller parts from a fridge?