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Ghetto Mods

no i didnt mean it looks ridiculous....Trust me, it looks FAR better than my "modifications" ,i wasnt saying it looks bad, i was just saying that when i was on my iphone, since the screen is so small, it looked like lunch meats and some type of veggies :). i respect that you would re-use an older case...thats something i would do. IMO buying fancy cases is like putting stickers on a PC.
Trust me, my old case really looks ridiculous. :) It's functional, but that's it. Besides, it has a big golden eagle sticker on the top and Odessa (sneakers/trainers) sticker on the right panel. I was a teenager and I thought it was super-cool back then, but now I can only laugh at it. I bought this case new with my first PC in 2002, re-used it in 2004 for hardware upgrade and finally put in the box probably somewhere in 2010. The case was modified somewhere in 2006.
From my perspective, a good looking case is like a good looking car.

this is an example of MY mod's.....o_O hot glues fan speed switch in front of case..
You can still modify it with custom switch and better wire management or you can remove it and install PWM fans (eg. Arctic F12 PWM).
 
This was from when I just got all the components but before I got a case. It was summer and this thing was in the middle of my room (in addition to my main pc). The heat was too Damn high (dual x5670s and an r9 290x, who needs a heater). That white cpu cooler didn't have the right socket support so I just rolled with it.
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Well some time ago i got a NAD T753, this unit was in a AS IS and on top of that it seemed like it been left in the basement for years, so signs of rust was around the bottom screws even the transformer had a little, how ever the unit needed some deserved cleaning how ever met the fate of these units typically have, there power source fails and all the channels fails to work as a +\- power fails, this is due to excessive heat.

Soon got a NAD T770 which is a nice unit how ever does not have the classy NAD punch i like.

Well 6 months or so passed and having heard the classic NAD sound and having the classy NAD punch i noticed 2 more on ebay, yup i got them both HAHA, by this time the 1st unit had been stripped down sold some of the parts and pretty much made my money back.

Both units set me back $150 shipped.

One of them came with a HTR3 and the other a HTR2 remotes. Knowing full well with a little time a HTR3 remote would sell for at least $75, i actually got $85 so got me money back for one.

The 2nd one i got had been dropped by UPS but thankfully the guy who i got it off insured it and sent me $100 3 weeks later and told me to keep the unit. So i was at the point were they had cost me actually nothing if not including the one i got many months before which i think owes me about 25$ as i sold the jumpers of the rear for $27 lol.

( thank You UPS )
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Well both in the same failed state as my 1st, no sound on all channels. One had a fail diode and 2 caps.
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Once they were replaced one was in fully working order, how ever turned out failing again which was due to dry joints ( i know i should of checked 1st time around ). And back to fully working order but of course i was not happy still well not for long term as i knew it would fail again.

Well the 3rd one i had a crack at it see what was going on with this one foolish enough replacing all the caps even getting as close to the spec caps and a failing diode, still working on this one maybe more later.

But anyways back in march a forum member made a comment about the caps on the NAD expecting better, so did i but meh. Anyways this member @Ferrum Master i posted about all the caps i had got for one of the units and has been awesome member of the community to bounce my crazy ass idea's off and some help too.

So a Massive Thank You @Ferrum Master.

Well except adding a large heat sink on top of the ones already in the unit and try to cool it that way, i had the idea maybe heat pipes, but again had a even more crazy idea by flipping 5 of the 7 vregs which would hit temps of 70-90c which is fine for them but every thing near them like capacitors and diodes not so much.

This is the reason these units fail, even the diodes die as more hear means shorter life span and 3 were jammed up against the heat sink and cap so no breathing area for them what so ever.

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Ok flip them ?, yes flip :). yeah to put the vreg on the other side of the board but then you have another issue right ?, heat goes though the case which helps some as they are like 2 millimeters thick ande would that be enough ?, well if you read the beginning of this i had one that i stripped down well there are 2 large 2.1 LB heat sinks each 3 channels. And thought hey why not so screwed one of those to it on the under side.

So got out my coffee filters and some tape, as the last thing i wanted was bits of metal in the unit.

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After all that was done i put in the screws in the heat sink that i was planning to use put some thing on them so it would leave a mark on the chassis so i knew pretty much were to put the screws.

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Ooh were did they go :p.

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And the whole reason i take pictures ( yes i cannot afford a microscope but feel free to buy one for me J/K).

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Not perfect but good enough, for now at least, ha to double up on the padding and still not 100% but close, taking about 45c though to the heat sink as using a single layer was about 32c,

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And found a use for the pads of my 2900XT which i used to keep them from bending inwards to far.

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Still added a fan to the top of the unit, it's a sensor so when the temp goes over 33c the fan kicks in.

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And finally

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Good job, @AsRock !
I might need to borrow some of your ghetto techniques, cause I'm getting a totally broken Harman/Kardon AVR100 in a few days :roll:
 
you could have just trimmed the heatsink and put a bigger fan in there

id replace the diodes with bigger ones if they are a known fault or at least get identical ones and put them in parallel
 
bigger fan in there

No fans near an amp heat sink, forget it it will start to whistle same as the fan PWM generator.

And more Zener diodes doesn't change the dissipated heat amount, it will do actually a bit more. If it's enough, it's enough, they usually can hold up to 150C. Those there just load off the voltage margin so the LM78(9)0x after sees less voltage and less heats up.

Nevertheless I am really disappointed in NAD and their decisions to put certain parts there and how organized the chassis is... I better build my own...

Good job, @AsRock totally broken Harman/Kardon AVR100 in a few days :roll:

Another masochist on sight xD, albeit that AVR100 is pretty generic at least normal caps and simple design, albeit really on the weak side and anemic supply section.
 
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Another masochist on sight xD, albeit that AVR100 is pretty generic at least normal caps and simple design, albeit really on the weak side and anemic supply section.
Which means it will be even more fun to mod and hack. BTW, you can't simply look away, when it is $25 with only missing encoder handles and damaged front panel PCB (the panel itself looks flawless).
Maybe, if I'm not successful, it will end up in the same pile, as 3 laser printers, 8 dead laptops and 30+ dead mice... mices... mouses... you know what I mean. :D
 
you could have just trimmed the heatsink and put a bigger fan in there

id replace the diodes with bigger ones if they are a known fault or at least get identical ones and put them in parallel


Did not want to put my poor dremel though that, that heats sink is about 4-5mm think of solid aluminum never mind the cost. which is the reason i did not want to cut a hole in the top as the lid to these is 2-3mm thick too, temps in that area have dropped some 40-50c+ ( over a 30 run time and even more over a longer time), there was that much heat that all the add on board front channel board.

No need to cut the heatsink with having a large place for it so it's not as if it's going to get knocked or any thing.


Good job, @AsRock !
I might need to borrow some of your ghetto techniques, cause I'm getting a totally broken Harman/Kardon AVR100 in a few days :roll:

Thanks, i just needed a project that was possibly fixable, how ever the NAD T753 as good as it sounds as Ferrum Master ponted out the design is bad, Like no access to the main board without taking pretty much every screw out the rear a bunch of screws need to be taken out the front too then on top of that all the addon boards clip in and are a pain in the ass. Testing the main board is a nightmare which is why a repair shop will most likely turn you away.

But i like the sound of it so had to keep trying :p.

No fans near an amp heat sink, forget it it will start to whistle same as the fan PWM generator.

And more Zener diodes doesn't change the dissipated heat amount, it will do actually a bit more. If it's enough, it's enough, they usually can hold up to 150C. Those there just load off the voltage margin so the LM78(9)0x after sees less voltage and less heats up.

Nevertheless I am really disappointed in NAD and their decisions to put certain parts there and how organized the chassis is... I better build my own...



Another masochist on sight xD, albeit that AVR100 is pretty generic at least normal caps and simple design, albeit really on the weak side and anemic supply section.

Yeah they are 150c, although i do have some others on sale which are up to NAD specs which are 200c how ever have a 3 month waiting list for and actually have some on order although not though NAD ( Canada ) as they wanted around $3.20 each + $20 shipping, so i got them from Digi for 40c a piece and $3 shipping.

Although no need to put the new ones in the one that's working as you know, and the temps a hell lot lower than it was before so they should last a good bit of time as there only hitting 52c after 2 hours.

As for the fan i added even though you said i probably shouldn't, it's one of NAD's own fans they use on the unit and is way away from any audio cables or boards.


I do wish i had the metal tools to actually make a real case for it as like most are built to size and not the other way around, but still they could of done way better.

The newer NAD amps there addin boards fai, mainly the HDMI board as they did what people were asking for and that was interchangeable cards. How ever HDMI\DTS chips and shit get really hot and being sideways and a few other reasons they fail which is why i have not picked up the T758 on ebay for $100 as a HDMI board will set you back no less than $400.

They should of done what most have started these days and put the card at the top of the unit, although still can fail at the top as it's crazy the temps these HDMI boards create but at least if their at the top easy add some heat sinks and other cooling methods.

NAD need to get there heads out of there butts and start thinking smarter as there passed will not continue to help them to sell. I hope they do as they are pretty dam unique.

I
 
Ye a clasic one, it the case arived today and picked it up ,"gutted it"(see first picture, all of those were in it ,shipped as) and I noticed it can fit 92mm fan but was only perforated for 80mm or so it seemd to me, threfore here come the second and third picture in to play, safety squints used although they were marketed as welding glasses(gave them a g o for about a buck each) were the only ones at hand, forth picture is the so far so good.
I would of used round scissors but made do with straight one, that can also do round cuts but not at such small radiuses.
 

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it works!
 

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you know they make adapter cables right
 
Yes, I am aware,but it's more of a custom fit particular to this case(mb | PC case)
 

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I needed a bracket to hold this on, i think the bits are from Meccano, i found them in a drawer.

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If i had 2 more of these bolts i wouldnt need the ties.
When the wife goes to work i will pull the house apart looking for more.

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dealing with a "multi ghetto / Multi-Mod" situation here......

i "converted" a dell optiplex SFF case fan to power from standard USB ......

then i place that into my "fan housing" made of Popsicle sticks by a 6 y/o (literally)

then it plugs into the USB ports on the back of MY Asus RT AC66W, which happens to be what it is cooling too.....oh and the router has 2 square holes cut out ofthe bottom of the housing, and it sits on top of the posicle stick fan case... :laugh:
it doesnt get much more ghetto folks.....atleast not without actually trying to ghetto. i was genuinely trying to solve a issue with my hotliest router

oh & i wired the USB backwards on accident, so the fan blows in reverse :)
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It's time for an update on Plywood... She's getting some badly needed upgrades because I ran out of space and the boot drives are failing. For those of you who didn't see the original post, Plywood is my media server. It's on a plywood board because I got a great deal on the mobo/RAM/processors but didn't realize until I got it that it is EATX and I don't want to spend money on a case for it. Eventually I'll get a Norco case with backplanes but theres still other things that need spent money on before that (and this server has always been built/upgraded with what I had around or could get for a few bucks, and I like it that way lol)!

It currently has a 6TB RAID5 array (4x2TB - full) and runs PlayOn (streaming site recorder) and Plex Media Server (also does transcoding). I was originally just going to add another 4 drives and call it a day, but then I figured the drives have been running pretty much 24x7 for the past 5 1/2 years (and they are consumer Deskstars), I'm sorta due for a failure. Whatever I did would have to be able to replace the existing array entirely.. So I saved my pennies and got 8 x 2TB Ultrastars and a used H700 RAID card. So now I can run them in RAID6, basically still leaving me with the same 12TB I'd have had adding another array of 4 drives but better fault tolerance and much faster IO over the old PCI-X 3Ware card. Once everything is configured I'll move all the media over to the new array and demote the old drives to boot/OS in RAID 10. I also bought a new EVGA Supernova 750 G3 because I know the budget 500W supply its been running on won't handle spinning up 12 hard drives.

This is sort of cobbled together so I could see what fits where and what I'm going to need to work around. The biggest thing I'm grumbling over is the hard drive mounting. I originally used some neat L brackets which worked great for 4 drives but not so much with 12. I found that perforated metal strapping has the holes punched just perfectly to "stack" the drives, but there is very little airspace between them. I have three fans behind the stack and one on top, and it's keeping them pretty cool. I may keep them like this for a bit but I'm open to suggestions.

I'm also going to make custom power cables because right now there are 14 drives and a lot of splitters; and use shorter SATA cables for the old array. The two 2.5" drives and their pink cables will ultimately go away. I'll probably also get a fan controller and change up the fan scheme - basically using what I have around that fits right now.

Well, whatta ya think? :D

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@taz420nj : Very nice media server. Everything bolted down on a wooden plank :) , did you put some carry handles on the side ? Must weight a ton to move !

The 4 disks stack must run pretty hot in this configuration, if anything, i would have put them on their side, just like what you did with the new 8x2Tb array.
 
@blobster21 Thanks! It actually isnt that bad weightwise (well, I just added like 15lbs of drives so I may change my opinion once I have to put it back in the rack lol).. But I just pick it up by the edges. I think I'm going to double up the base though because I noticed while I was carrying it that it flexed a bit under the weight. I didn't notice it when I originally built it.

The 4 disks actually run cooler like that without any fans than the 8 stack does with four fans.. It's probably because the 4 are 5400RPM while the 8 are 7200 - they run hotter. I do want to have them all vertical but I have to come up with a better mounting method that spaces them apart a little.
 
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dealing with a "multi ghetto / Multi-Mod" situation here......

i "converted" a dell optiplex SFF case fan to power from standard USB ......

then i place that into my "fan housing" made of Popsicle sticks by a 6 y/o (literally)

then it plugs into the USB ports on the back of MY Asus RT AC66W, which happens to be what it is cooling too.....oh and the router has 2 square holes cut out ofthe bottom of the housing, and it sits on top of the posicle stick fan case... :laugh:
it doesnt get much more ghetto folks.....atleast not without actually trying to ghetto. i was genuinely trying to solve a issue with my hotliest router

oh & i wired the USB backwards on accident, so the fan blows in reverse :)
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what in the ffffffffffffff.......
 
A mate brought some software round on this

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I didnt like the look of it so i changed it a bit.

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i got no lock so i use this:D:D:D:D
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and sorry for ghetto washer and ghetto dvi cover
 
OK, the old 9800 bit it. Wile E. Coyote style: heard a funny noise, looked over to PC, power supply hanging funny, (not unusual, sometimes it just is what it is, funny, 2 of the zip ties were broke and 1 of the screws had already fell out..er...uh...somewhere?) screw drops into fan, and before I could jerk the plug, well, you know how it goes from there-use screwdriver to tighten power supply. Tight. Hated that 9800. Pulled a 8800 GTS 320 Mb card out, spent a couple hours cleaning EVERYTHING it could hide, spider nest, moth stuff, and even a piece of tinsel from a Christmas long past, or I hope it was tinsel. I put it in. No, I tried to put it in, the fan housing and the CPU fan housing was not going to just "fit", and something else did't seem right either. It WAS a dual slot and was not going to fit the other direction-yeah, actually held it and turned it every direction for a few seconds, and surmised it had just become a single slot. I found the bull nose cutters and made some deft cuts until it meshed together, then when the PC had it's back turned toward me I jumped it with a pair of right hand tin snips to make some air exchange room above the top slot. Good. Works. Overheats so fast it would thermal on me and blue screen. The heat off the P-4 3.40 was blowing straight into the opening and I couldn't divert it up or out without overheating the power supply so I removed the case fan from the rear, and put the little wire fan I used to cool an old monitor to blow in the case and it deflects don into the mess at the end of the CPU cooler. It didn't work right any other way and the kitchen (God bless my very patient wife) stays over 75+ F summer-winter, it just get's hotter, not cooler. At least it works, and harder and takes a beating too. http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/details/w2zre/
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That's pretty ghetto
 
I'm sure I posted this but don't care to look. My ghetto mod extreme from 2002. I drilled out holes all around the pattern I drew out then used snips to cut it out and bread bag ties to hold the 12" Duracraft fan to the door. It cooled my heavily OCed AXIA and KD7 like a mofo.
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