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How many continuous hours will it last my mini pc if connected to the LiitoKala battery pack that I've found for a cheap price ?

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--> Oh, you connected HDMI instead of power with a flat cable.

Not only I tried HDMI to HDMI,but also USB-C to USB-A to power on the display. Didn't work. Also tried to do USB-C to USB-A of my PC.

So,I'm planning to try the "EPLZON DC 6V 9V 12V 24V to DC 5V 5A Buck Converter Module V-36V Step Down to DC 5V-5.3V 5.2V 3.5-6A Transformer Dual Output Voltage Regulator Power Module" without FLAT cables,but plastic ones.
I would like to share the review of a product that seems to be the same as "EPLZON DC 6V 9V 12V 24V to DC 5V 5A Buck Converter Module V-36V Step Down to DC 5V-5.3V 5.2V 3.5-6A Transformer Dual Output Voltage Regulator Power Module" because there was a statement that you should be careful about.

There seems to be a defective product that lacks a capacitor on the input side.
In this case, the input voltage is output as is.
In other words, 12V may be output from the USB A terminal.

Since the review text is long, I will omit it, but I think it is essential to check whether the input side capacitor is attached correctly.
1740732163495.png
1740732200144.png

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0BCV6GRH5/
 
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Thanks. I've just tested mine. The mini fan worked like a charme.

Mine seems to be good,it has two capacitors :

Untitled.jpg


Now I would like to test it with my 8 inches Waveshare display,but I'm scared to burn it. You know,it's a good and expensive display.

The display requires USB-C,but the buk has one USB-A port. Can I buy a converter from USB-A to USB-C ?

Anyway,the hardware setup is completed :

Untitled.jpg


Now I need to create the 3D case and that could take a long time,since I never used a CAD software.

My buck step down converter may be not good because it has one USB-A port,but my display requires one USB-C port to be powered good. If I use the USB-A port it may flicker. So,I'm trying to find a buck converter that has one USB-C port. I'm having some troubles to find it. If someone wants to help me,I will appreciate.

NB : Found this one :

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0DXV8B4RH

It seems better than the previous one...
 

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I don't think a Type-C port is necessary.
You can power the display using a common USB A to Type-C cable.
It is also clearly stated in the product description on the display.


I think this can be achieved using CAD software such as onshape or Fusion360.
You will need calipers to 3D model all the parts.
I often do similar tasks.
 
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According with what the developer of the RockPro board says it seems that the display needs to use the USB 3.0 port :

Pine64 Protocol Bot, [23 Feb 2025 14:26:48]
<dsimic> hmm, please see https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/8HP-CAPLCD_Monitor

Pine64 Protocol Bot, [23 Feb 2025 14:27:09]
<dsimic> it seems that it typically uses 800 mA, which the USB ports on the RP64 can deliver

Pine64 Protocol Bot, [23 Feb 2025 14:28:27]
<dsimic> actually, you should use it with the USB 3.0 port

Pine64 Protocol Bot, [23 Feb 2025 19:00:22]
<dsimic> please note the folowing, quoted from the WaveShare wiki article:

Pine64 Protocol Bot, [23 Feb 2025 19:00:25]
<dsimic> "If the power supply via the USB interface is insufficient, the LCD will flicker. After connecting the external 5V 1A power adapter to the LCD's Power port, it can be restored to normal use."

Pine64 Protocol Bot, [23 Feb 2025 19:02:16]
<dsimic> which means that the display probably can be turned on and off on its own, using the power button

---> You will need calipers to 3D model all the parts.

can you share a video tutorial that I can watch to learn ?
 
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The important thing is "800mA". "USB3.0" is not important.

The 12V to 5V USB converter you purchased is capable of outputting 3.5A (3,500mA).
It's a power source four times that of USB3.0, so there shouldn't be any problems.
*I'd like to add a fuse or current limiting function in case of a failure, but I'll leave it there for now.


It varies depending on the 3D CAD software, but you can probably learn the basics of Fusion360 from this video.
*I've never used video tutorials, so I don't know if this is a good video or not.

I mainly use SOLIDWORKS, so I don't have much knowledge of other 3D CAD.
I know a little about AutoCAD2010-2020, I-DEAS, UnigraphicsNX, Solid Edge2017-2021, and Fusion360.
 
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I was talking about 1).

Regarding 2), I can't read the detailed specifications, so I wouldn't buy it if I didn't have a measuring device.

2) states that it supports USB PD2.0/3.0 standard output, and if this statement is true, it is a highly functional product.

In my environment, the price of this product is not displayed, but if this feature is true, I think it will cost more than 20€.
 
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2) states that it supports USB PD2.0/3.0 standard output, and if this statement is true, it is a highly functional product.

Product Description

12V to 5V Converter, USB C Fast Charging Connector, Adjustable Voltage Regulator for Fast Charging.

Features:

Step Down is a high-performance solution that can convert 12V to 5V with USB+USB C fast charging port, thus producing various electronic projects and devices.
With wide input voltages, this converter ranges from 8.2V to 32V and adjustable output from 3V to 20V and supports protocols for efficient energy conversion and fast charging.
These converters for electronic enthusiasts and hobbyists are perfect for those who want to enhance their project

Product Description

12V to 5V Converter, USB C Fast Charging Connector, Adjustable Voltage Regulator for Fast Charging.

Features:

Step Down is a high-performance solution that can convert 12V to 5V with USB+USB C fast charging port, thus producing various electronic projects and devices.

With wide input voltages, this converter ranges from 8.2V to 32V and adjustable output from 3V to 20V and supports protocols for efficient energy conversion and fast charging.

These converters for electronic enthusiasts and hobbyists are perfect for those who want to enhance their projects with a reliable performance management solution.

Regardless of the work of portable devices, embedded systems or customs electronics, the Step Down integrates seamlessly into all configurations and provides stable and safe power supply.

With its compact size and built-in safety features such as over-current and short circuit protection, this Down Step ensures both the safety of users and devices while maximizing performance and efficiency.

Specifications:

Component: Plastic
Dimensions: Approx. 50 x 30 x 15mm.
Input: 8.2V ~ 32V
Output: 3V ~ 20V automatically adjusts fast charging protocols
Supports Type-C and USB PD2.0/PD3.0 protocols
Current: 4.8A (Max)
Supports 5V, 9V, 12V, 15V and 20V voltage outputs.
Supports multiple protection measures: input over-voltage, input under-voltage, output candidates, output over-current protection and over-temperature protection;

Package includes:

1 x 12V to 5V Buck adapter.cts with a reliable performance management solution.
Regardless of the work of portable devices, embedded systems or customs electronics, the Step Down integrates seamlessly into all configurations and provides stable and safe power supply.

With its compact size and built-in safety features such as over-current and short circuit protection, this Down Step ensures both the safety of users and devices while maximizing performance and efficiency.

Specifications:

Component: Plastic
Dimensions: Approx. 50 x 30 x 15mm.
Input: 8.2V ~ 32V
Output: 3V ~ 20V automatically adjusts fast charging protocols
Supports Type-C and USB PD2.0/PD3.0 protocols
Current: 4.8A (Max)
Supports 5V, 9V, 12V, 15V and 20V voltage outputs.
Supports multiple protection measures: input over-voltage, input under-voltage, output candidates, output over-current protection and over-temperature protection;

Package includes:

1 x 12V to 5V Buck adapter.

In my environment, the price of this product is not displayed, but if this feature is true, I think it will cost more than 20€.

8.14 EU
 
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The USB PD power supply function is incredible for 8.14€.

I predict it probably won't work properly, but it could be a bargain.

I'm interested in this part, so I'll check to see if it can be purchased in Japan.

I also plan to purchase a USB PD checker at the same time.


Well, it's 4am in Japan, so I'll check later.

There is an equivalent product that can be purchased in Japan.
In addition, more detailed specifications are specified in Japanese.
Type-C USB PD 3.0 standard
27W output capacity
5V, 9V, 12V output voltage
It mentioned attractive features such as the PPS function.
The price in Japan is also surprisingly low.

Due to personal interest, I am planning to use a USB power measuring device to verify how well it actually works.
 
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It costs 27 EUR if bought from Japan to Italy.
Sorry if I misled you, I was just sharing the results of my search to buy it myself.

This is a product sold in Japan, and is probably the same board.
I was hoping that new specifications would be revealed from the product description.

In fact, this prediction was correct, and the detailed USB PD specifications were listed below.
【多様なプロトコルサポート】本製品は、Type-C PD 2.0/3.0(PPS)プロトコルに対応し、最大27Wの出力が可能です。5V3A、9V3A、12V2.25A、PPS 3.3V-5.9V3A、3.3V-11V3Aなど、異なる電圧と電流の組み合わせに対応するブロードキャストパケットをサポートしています。
[Various Protocol Support] This product supports Type-C PD 2.0/3.0 (PPS) protocol and can output up to 27W. Supports broadcast packets for different voltage and current combinations, such as 5V3A, 9V3A, 12V2.25A, PPS 3.3V-5.9V3A, 3.3V-11V3A.
Although 27W is not a very large amount of power, I think it is quite good that it also supports PPS.
I actually tested it and found that it supports all USB PD standards up to 12V 27W, as the product claims.

I think it's okay to use either 1) or 2) since it has sufficient performance for powering the display.
 
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My post #36 talks about 2) products.

the link you posted
1) Italian sales page
2) Japanese sales page
So it's not relevant.


My post #36 talked about two things:

These two products are probably the same product 2), so I am reporting the results of an experiment I purchased in Japan.

I thought that the functionality of the 2) product was too high for its low price, and that there was some kind of problem with the 2) product.
In other words, I considered the possibility of something breaking down when you used 2).


After actually purchasing and testing 2), I found that there were no problems. So I wrote this as a conclusion.
"I think it's okay to use either 1) or 2) since it has sufficient performance for powering the display."



I will also add the results of detailed operation checks.

While Type-C is outputting a voltage exceeding 5V in 2), no power is output from the USB A terminal in 2).
In this state, if you try to get power from 2) USB A, it will work as follows.

First, 2) is reset and power supply stops.
Both Type-C and USB A in product 2) output 5V.

I consider this behavior of product 2) to be sufficiently safe.

It cannot be used when two types of power supplies are required with different voltage combinations, but it is not a behavior that will break anything.

*When Type-C outputs 12V, we confirmed that there is no possibility of 12V being output to USB A and damaging something.
 
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I'm trying to understand what you say,but I'm not sure if I have understood well. So,I want to make you one easy question.

For my scenario,where I want to power on the RockPro board using the Nitecore 10.000 power bank and the display using the Liitiokala battery pack,what's the adapter that you would like to use between 1 and 2 ? I see that the japanese adapter has some features that the buck sold on amazon.it does not have,such as two USB ports (A and C) and the PPS. So It seems the preferrable choice. Do you confirm ? And I would like to know if I can use the USB A OR the C port interchangeably without causing problems to the display and motherboard in case I want to use the japanese's buck.
 
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If I have two batteries and two loads (display and mini PC) and think about connecting them, I would connect them as follows.

Nitecore 10.000 power bank => Display

Liitiokala battery pack => Mini PC

In this case, you don't need a converter or adapter.


But you choose another way.

Nitecore 10.000 power bank => Mini PC
Now, to get a 12V DC barrel plug from Type-C, I use a PD trigger cable.

※I have never been able to check the specifications of the mini PC.

※If you can power the mini PC with Type-C, you don't need an adapter.

Liitiokala battery pack => Display
Now, to get a 5V 800mA or more power supply from 12V, I use the following.
And the cable is a random USB A to Type-C cable like the one below.
Or maybe a short cable that came with something.
 
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Nitecore 10.000 power bank => Display
Liitiokala battery pack => Mini PC

In this case, you don't need a converter or adapter.

But you choose another way.

That's because the Nitecore 10.000 gives the energy for more time than the LiitioKala battery pack,so the board can survives longer. I think that if the board survives longer than the display is a better choice.
 
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I think the Liitiokala battery pack will actually last longer than the Nitecore 10,000 power bank, which goes through a lot of conversions.
The difference in capacity between the two is quite small.
*This is when the Liitiokala battery pack is not disguising its battery capacity.
 
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I have another option that I haven't well rated right now. The usage of this power bank to power on the display,instead of the LiitioKala battery pack and the buck board :


this power bank does not need a conversion from 12v to 5v. It supports only 5v. What do you think to use it instead of the Liitkiotala to power on the display ? It can be connected to the display directly using a cable from the USB-C port of the powerbank to the USB-C port of the display.
 
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Assume the capacity of the power bank is 10,000mAh.
Assume the internal conversion efficiency of the power bank is 85%.
Assume the power requirement of the display is constant at 5V 0.8A.

The calculation is as follows:
Capacity is 10,000mAh (10Ah) at 3.6V internal battery voltage
(3.6V is the standard voltage for lithium-ion)
3.6V * 10Ah = 36Wh

Conversion efficiency at 5V output is 85%
36Wh / 5V * 0.85 = 6.12Ah (6,120mAh)

Current consumed is 800mA
6,120mAh / 800mA = 7.65h


There is little point in arguing which of the two batteries has a larger capacity.

Most batteries on the market do not list the correct capacity.
Also, the actual capacity of a power bank is 75-85% of the listed capacity.
This is due to the conversion loss inside the power bank.

You already have the means to run a mini PC with two batteries, right?
The easiest and most clear way to do this is to actually measure the operating time and compare it.
 
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You already have the means to run a mini PC with two batteries, right?
The easiest and most clear way to do this is to actually measure the operating time and compare it.

yeah. I can't attach both the display and the RockPro board to the Nitecore powerbank...they will take too much power from it and the system will survive only a couple of hours. Using two power banks maybe the system can survives 4 hours.

For sure I will know the truth when I will boot the system and I will use FreeBSD until it will die. Maybe the display will die before the board or the opposite. Who knows.
 
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One of the things I'm working on is a system that uses twelve 621.6Wh batteries.

That's a total of 7,459.2Wh.

I'm using an "ideal diode circuit" to safely treat this giant power supply as a single power supply.
*Of course, there are plenty of other protection circuits, monitoring functions, and safety devices as well.


The circuit bundles multiple batteries together to run the system for the maximum amount of time.
Apparently you can buy it on Amazon.


You should be clear about what you want to do.
After all, your goal is to "drive both a mini PC and a display more cheaply, for longer periods of time, and within the limited case dimensions and weight," right?

If I were designing a system, I'd stuff as many Liitiokala battery packs as I could fit in my case, parallel them with an "ideal diode circuit", and use them to power a mini PC and display.
Of course, the display requires 5V, so you'll also need a voltage converter.

You can also choose a battery with the capacity of two or three batteries without using an "ideal diode circuit."
The trade-off for freedom in battery placement would be simpler components.

-------------------------

If you know the power consumption of your system, you can calculate the battery capacity needed to run for n hours: x Wh.

It will become clear whether the battery capacity required for your system is realistic, or whether you will have to sacrifice battery life or size.

Only you can measure the power consumption (or current consumption) of your system.

I found one that was almost identical to the one I purchased.

You can measure the power consumption of a mini PC .
power bank => measuring instrument => Type-C to Type-C cable => PD trigger => mini PC


-------------------------

I have finally arrived at the actual products you refer to by "mini-pc", "RockPro RK3366", "RockPro", and "RockPro RK3399".

It's the PINE64 "ROCKPro64", right?

After checking the specs and circuit diagram, it appears that the normal current consumption is expected to be 1,110mA at 12V.

Also, the input voltage is listed as 12V, but it actually operates in the range of 6V to 18V.

*However, the withstand voltage of the capacitor on page 31 of the circuit diagram is 16V, so in practice the voltage is limited to around 6 to 14V.
When connecting a display using the eDP 30-pin connector, the power input voltage is applied directly.
According to the eDP standard, the range is around 5.5V to 21V, so this is probably not a problem.

The power supply circuit uses two ICs called SY8113B, each generating a maximum of 5.1V 3A.
1741012823470.png


Looking at the efficiency characteristics at 5V output, we can see that the most efficient conversion is at an input of 6V.
However, we can also see that when outputting 3A, there is almost no difference whether the input voltage is 6V or 12V.

From this, we can see that if you want your battery to last longer, it is better to input a voltage closer to 6V.

However, if we assume that the maximum current consumption is 5V6A, we can see that as the input voltage approaches 5V, the current will approach 6A.
If the current is large, the wiring will heat up and loss will be large, so I think an input of 7V to 12V is appropriate.

Taking this into consideration, you can change the battery configuration.

The easiest thing to do is to replace the power bank with a 3S2P battery.
The capacity will be 81.6Wh, which is the equivalent of two power banks.
You can expect about 4-5 hours of operation for the display and RockPro64 combined.

But there is still space left.
You can also add a 3S1P battery that you already have.
It's easy to power the display with the 3S1P.
 
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---> 6,120mAh / 800mA = 7.65h

Here you have calculated how many hours will last my display if it is powered by the powerbank "TNTOR 10000mAh",right ?

7.64h is not bad.

Now,that you have checked its specs and circuit diagram of the RockPro RK3399, can you calculate how many hours more or less can it survives if it is powered by the powerbank "Nitecore NB 10.000"


?

thanks. I want to compare the solution that uses two powerbanks (Nitecore + TNTOR) with your secondary solution,that uses the Liitokala 12V 6800Mah and the 3S1P battery that I already have. I want to see if there is a noticeable difference in hours of use.

The "3S2P Battery" has a depth of 2 cm...Nitecore has only 1 cm of depth....this means that my mini pc will become more massive and I don't like it too much. I've chosen the power banks among the thinnest ones (they are 1 cm only each one) to avoid building a very heavy tile and to prevent the device from having an excessive thickness...
 
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Mouse Logitech G502 HERO
All assumptions are based.

The power of the RockPro RK3399 is expected to vary greatly.

Let's assume that the RockPro RK3399 consumes 12V 1,110mA (1.11A) as shown in the circuit diagram.

Power consumption
12V * 1.11A = 13.32W

The capacity of the powerbank "Nitecore NB 10.000" is assumed to be 38.5Wh based on the product description.

The conversion efficiency is assumed to be 83.1% based on the description of the product image "Rated Energy: 6,400mAh 5V (TYP1A)".

Battery life
38.5Wh / 13.32W * 83.1% = 2.402h


The runtime of the RockPro RK3399 is 1/3 of the runtime of the display, which is disproportionate.
This is because although the battery capacity is the same at 10,000mAh, the power consumption is 13.32W vs. 4.0W, which is more than three times different.
 
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---> The runtime of the RockPro RK3399 is 1/3 of the runtime of the display, which is disproportionate.

I've understood well that I should not use the Nitecore,but the 32SP battery pack to have the double of hours of life. But I will attach to it only the board,not the display. So maybe I can reach 5 hours of life.
 
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Mouse Logitech G502 HERO
Let's consider the maximum operating time when using a single battery based on the total power of the RockPro RK3399 and the display.

The power consumption of the RockPro RK3399 is 13.32W
The power consumption of the display is 4.0W
The total is 17.32W.

Let's assume that the conversion efficiency of the power bank is 85%.
A power bank of 17.32Wh or more is required to operate for 0.85 hours.
34.64Wh for 1.7 hours
69.28Wh for 3.4 hours
103.92Wh for 5.1 hours

If you use a battery such as 3S1P instead of a power bank, the conversion efficiency can be ignored.
A battery of 17.32Wh or more is required to operate for 1 hour.
34.64Wh for 2 hours
69.28Wh for 4 hours
103.92Wh for 6 hours

Let's calculate the operating time of the actual battery.

3S1P 12.6V 3,000mAh
12.6V * 3Ah = 37.8Wh
37.8Wh / 17.32W = 2.18h

3S2P 12.6V 6,800mAh
12.6V * 6.8Ah = 85.68Wh
85.68Wh / 17.32W = 4.95h

3S3P 12.6V 9,800mAh
12.6V * 9.8Ah = 123.48Wh
123.48Wh / 17.32W = 7.13h
 
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