I think I killed my MSI Z97 U3 PLUS Motherboard!!!

[jsfitz54]

Is this what we are talking about?

http://www.embeddedcomputers.net/software/

 

[Sasqui]

The BIOS chip is a Macronix 25L6473E , it's not specifically listed in the manual as being supported, but I'm guessing it is:

Getting over Hurdle #1, loading the new firmware (Done!) - Took some time to find the damn firmware ...it was in a folder included with the software and using the bootloader procedure took some careful instruction reading. Thanks to @silentbogo for adding that post.

Hurdle #2 Connecting the FlashCAT to the motherboard (Still working on this one)

Problem: When connected to the MB, the FlashCAT is not recognized by the software

Mistake #1, Using the MSI SPI header and assuming the pin diagram for the SPI MB header applied in my case. My board has an 11-pin SPI header, there's an additional connection to be made to pin 11:

What I think I'm going to do - Use the direct "Chip Clip" method. The only hurdle is this will involve some soldering, as one of the pins does double-duty on the BIOS side of things (see red dots). I..E - the VCC on the FlashCAT splits off to both VCC and HOLD# on the board.

@Solaris17 - did you run into this?

 

[Solaris17]

do you have aligator clip?

 

[Sasqui]

do you have aligator clip?

 

[Solaris17]

just plug that directly into the flash cat and clip onto the bios chip. no soldering. additonal voltage is only needed when doing diect pin on 11 pin connectors.

It doesnt actually matter to the chip. Make sure the selector on the side of the flashcat is set to 3.3v and make sure no power is going to the mobo. also remove the bios battery. NO VOLTAGE should be present.

 

[eidairaman1]

With this kind of trouble it makes me want to wire in a socket like plcc based motherboards are.

 

[Sasqui]

It doesnt actually matter to the chip

I see VCC on the FlashCAT going to BOTH VCC and HOLD# on the Chip. Won't matter?

I guess no harm in trying it. Just wired it up.

FlashCat headers:

Chip Clip headers:

 

[Solaris17]

im confused. does your clip not pull out of that smaller board? I meant unplug from that smaller board and plug directly onto the flashcats SPI pins then clamp right onto the BIOS chip.

 

[jsfitz54]

A hush falls over the crowd, then...

Do it, Do it, Do it, Do it, Do it, Do it, Do it!

 

[Sasqui]

Partial success:

 

[HammerON]

Sub'd to see what happens....
Good luck!

 

[Sasqui]

Nope:

One thing I noticed was the "Erase" button was not available:

Also.. what's up with this during write? I'm trying to write the original BIOS back to the chip it's way bigger than 2,048

 

[Solaris17]

yup its not connected correctly. Please stop jumping ahead this isnt without its risks and you could damage the ROM.

Disconnect the clip from the board and the small board that you have it connected too. plug the ribbon into the flash cats SPI pins ribbon side out (hanging of the end).

At this point find some white out or a small sticker or silver sharpie so you can do yourself a favor later.

connect the clamp to the BIOS chip itself. making sure ALL connections are snug and its not easy. plenty of times you will think you havent but you wont.

When the chip is properly detected mark the side of the clamp that is connecting to PIN #1 on the BIOS chip (via your picture) this will speed up future flashes since you will know the orientation.

 

[Sasqui]

Disconnect the clip from the board and the small board that you have it connected too. plug the ribbon into the flash cats SPI pins ribbon side out (hanging of the end).

Problem.... the ribbon cable for the clip has 8 pins. The flashcat has 10 pins.

 

[Solaris17]

Problem.... the ribbon cable for the clip has 8 pins. The flashcat has 10 pins.

That is a problem. Is that aligator clip FROM flash cats website?

 

[Sasqui]

That is a problem. Is that aligator clip FROM flash cats website?

No, and now I wish I had ordered is from them. http://www.embeddedcomputers.net/products/SerialAdapters/ ...bottom of page, SOIC-8

So, I'm sort of rolling my own here. That's why the 1 pin from the Flashcat going to 2 pins on the BIOS was the big question:

The way I have it now, there is no wire going to HOLD# (the connection from VCC on the Flashcat needs to be split)

 

[Solaris17]

Not the end of the world. Let me just think for a min how to fix this.

Not the end of the world. Let me just think for a min how to fix this.

ok. Heres what were gonna do.

Pull out your PSU. I want you to leave the BIOS battery out. I want you to wire DIRECTLY to the flash cat and board using your jumper cable.

Follow the pin diagram on the flash cat side then follow the pin diagram for the 11 pin side and I want you to NOT connect the VCC wire. Were going to flash the board warm.

Before plugging in the USB cable, but after its all been connected. I want you to boot the board. Were going to have the mobo provide the 3.3 for us so we dont need to split it.

if this works NEVER DO IT THIS WAY.

so no VCC on flashcat side

and NO

WP or VCC on mobo side.

 

[Sasqui]

ok. Heres what were gonna do.

Pull out your PSU. I want you to leave the BIOS battery out. I want you to wire DIRECTLY to the flash cat and board using your jumper cable.

Follow the pin diagram on the flash cat side then follow the pin diagram for the 11 pin side and I want you to NOT connect the VCC wire. Were going to flash the board warm.

Before plugging in the USB cable, but after its all been connected. I want you to boot the board. Were going to have the mobo provide the 3.3 for us so we dont need to split it.

if this works NEVER DO IT THIS WAY.

so no VCC on flashcat side

and NO

WP or VCC on mobo side.

I saw a similar read either in the manual or on-line where the flashcat couldn't provide enough for the 3.3v. I'll give it a try, but I need to take a powder for now. Need to do some other things, then heading out to cut a rug this evening.

I just want to play games.

 

[Solaris17]

I saw a similar read either in the manual or on-line where the flashcat couldn't provide enough for the 3.3v. I'll give it a try, but I need to take a powder for now. Need to do some other things, then heading out to cut a rug this evening.

I just want to play games.

View attachment 94285

the mobo will provide the voltage no problem. the issue is your socket type wants 2 VCC rails basically. but your not going to get that from a split 3.3 wire. so we need the board to hold itself up while we program it.

this would be simple if we had the right aligator clip but since we are going to have to work through the socket. this is how its gotta be.

 

[eidairaman1]

Rule of thumb, always use the correct tools.

@Sasqui @Solaris17, I pray y'all resurrect this board to operational status.

 

[Sasqui]

Rule of thumb, always use the correct tools.

Pretty easy to say in hindsight (not knowing what the right tools were), but hey that's how we learn

 

[eidairaman1]

Pretty easy to say in hindsight (not knowing what the right tools were), but hey that's how we learn

@Solaris17 @Sasqui

This may or may not help despite being a different motherboard.

https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=180978.7

 

[Sasqui]

@Solaris17 @Sasqui

This may or may not help despite being a different motherboard.

https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=180978.7

I'm going to dig back into that fix (I read another version of it elsewhere), worth a shot. Hopefully I haven't buggered the BIOS in the meantime if I have, it's back to Flashcat. ...I'm getting weary of this whole thing.

 

[eidairaman1]

I'm going to dig back into that fix (I read another version of it elsewhere), worth a shot. Hopefully I haven't buggered the BIOS in the meantime if I have, it's back to Flashcat. ...I'm getting weary of this whole thing.

Your usb 2.0 ports are under the ps2 port. Make sure the bios that was working is the only 1 on the drive.

 

[Sasqui]

Your usb 2.0 ports are under the ps2 port. Make sure the bios that was working is the only 1 on the drive.

The 3.0 (I think there are 8 or 10) on the back are BLUE, the 2.0 are BLACK, so pretty easy to tell