Kolink 1200W 80+ Platinum problem

[Nbdy]

Hi,

I have read the review of this PSU,but the problem is I had one before I read it ...

The problem is when I turn ON the PSU, the FUSE on the switchboard pops out,after I press the FUSE in,all works well ...

My question is,is there any solution for that problem

thx

greetz

Darko

 

[TheMadDutchDude]

Leave the PSU on...? Sounds like your circuit is sensitive and the jolt from the PSU sucking some juice trips it.

 

[FreedomEclipse]

You might wanna consider getting a UPS or hire a qualified electrician to check out the wiring in your house

 

[Bill_Bright]

Switchboard? Do you mean your mains circuit panel?

If you mean the circuit panel, then you have overloaded that breaker. All electronics draw a lot of current when first powered up so it is clear that is pushing the current demand over the breaker's limit.

The question now is, why? What else do you have on that same circuit. The PSU by itself, assuming it is not faulty, should not pop the breaker. So you either have too many things plugged into that circuit, the wiring is faulty, or the breaker itself is faulty - they do get weaker as they age.

I don't know what options you have in Croatia, but every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure your outlet is properly wired and grounded to Earth ground. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.

If your outlets test fine, then try to isolate the PSU to its own circuit/circuit breaker.

Do note that almost nobody needs a 1200W supply. That is just HUGE! Is this the same computer as listed in your System Specs? If so, what happened to that 750W supply? Did it pop the breaker?

 

[silentbogo]

My question is,is there any solution for that problem

I think your automatic circuit breaker is either too weak or too sensitive to power load spikes.
Bascially you have few options:
1) move your PC to another room or plug it into another circuit (usually it has nominal current listed on the breaker)
2) Call an electrician and ask if it's possible to replace that particular breaker with a higher rating (e.g. if it's 10-15A, then you'll need something around 25A for it to hold, but it all depends on the actual wiring in the house). Usually the wiring to lights and outlets has some overhead for power(e.g. 15A breaker, but 2.5mm wiring). Sometimes breakers get oxidized, overworked, worn off etc. which may cause it to trip during fast load spike, even when it's wa-a-a-y below the rated current limit.
I'd start with that, cause it seems the most probable, and worth checking out even without PSU issues.
3) Check if there's anything else powerful plugged into that line. On the cheap, the 1.5mm wiring can handle a tad over 3kW@220V, and is usually wired over a 15A breaker. So, if you have something like a fridge or a space heater pulling current on the same line, it may trip the breaker.
4) Do not unplug your PSU. Let it stay on standby with fully charged caps, so you won't have those crazy power spikes.

 

[eidairaman1]

Switch circuits, or have an electrician correct the problem, you are drawing too much current for that circuit to handle, thus heat build up.

 

[Nbdy]

Well, my circuits are all ok ...

I have 4 mining rigs,3 are working well, except the one with the kolink PSU, I have another 1200W from SAMA,but that one don't short my circuit breaker ...

I have read in the review that the kolink 1200W 80+ platinum has a "The increased inrush current, reduced hold-up time, high EMI transmissions, and lack of OTP, along with its improperly implemented protection features, are the major flaws of this PSU. " which was mentioned here in the test/review - https://www.techpowerup.com/review/kolink-kl-c1200pl/13.html

So I'm interesting if any one tryed to fix this problem,and fixed it,and if he would like to share the experience

thx

 

[Deleted member 185158]

Start up current is causing the breaker to exceed it's amp rating.
It is possible the circuit breaker is going bad or is bad. Try replacing it. (same size)

 

[eidairaman1]

Well, my circuits are all ok ...

I have 4 mining rigs,3 are working well, except the one with the kolink PSU, I have another 1200W from SAMA,but that one don't short my circuit breaker ...

I have read in the review that the kolink 1200W 80+ platinum has a "The increased inrush current, reduced hold-up time, high EMI transmissions, and lack of OTP, along with its improperly implemented protection features, are the major flaws of this PSU. " which was mentioned here in the test/review - https://www.techpowerup.com/review/kolink-kl-c1200pl/13.html

So I'm interesting if any one tryed to fix this problem,and fixed it,and if he would like to share the experience

thx

Wrong- you are overloading a circuit, if you suspect it being psu, replace it, no wonder you have problems, you are mining. Get an electrician to replace your breakers...

 

[Bill_Bright]

If your other computers don't trip the breaker, then I would leave your breakers alone (assuming their wiring, including path to Earth ground, checks good). The problem is the Kolink supply. How old is it? If still under warranty, send it back.

 

[silentbogo]

Apparently there's a review here on TPU. There's nearly 1000uF of input caps and relatively old design, so the inrush current is very high (around 75A according to the review). That's the culprit.

Kolink Continuum 1200 W Review

Kolink is Caseking's house brand and offers a variety of budget-oriented products. Its flagship PSU model is the Continuum 1200 W. This unit is based on an older Sirfa platform that is, however, capable of performing quite well, especially considering the attractive pricing.

www.techpowerup.com

How old is it? If still under warranty, send it back.

PSU is most likely OK. Just the quirk of the architecture. They are relatively fresh, with oldest reviews only dating back to the end of 2016 - beginning of 2017. Also, surprisingly, pretty robust, efficient, and have some japanese caps, if it's of any value nowadays.

 

[Nbdy]

OK, I think that the warranty is not possible to be realized ...

Is it possible to change the caps with a higher volume,so it would not turn the breaker off ??

 

[silentbogo]

Is it possible to change the caps with a higher volume,so it would not turn the breaker off ??

It's already high. PSU is not a problem. Your breaker simply cannot handle inrush current, so just assemble your rig, trip the circuit once, and reset it before caps discharge.
Newer PSUs have a special circuitry to delay and minimize inrush current (like a NTC thermistor w/ mechanical relay, or a NTC w/ Thyristor etc). Yours does not, so you get that crazy spike before caps are full.
Also, don't you dare to touch those caps Those are friggin' Rubycons!

 

[Nbdy]

Well I'm an hobi electronics,have some soldering skills,just asking if I should put a 1500uF or more caps, with the same voltage,or should I take also higher voltage?

 

[silentbogo]

Well I'm an hobi electronics,have some soldering skills,just asking if I should put a 1500uF or more caps, with the same voltage,or should I take also higher voltage?

Apparently you are really bad at electronics, since you still don't get the fact that YOU DO NOT NEED HIGHER INPUT CAPACITANCE.

 

[Nbdy]

OK, thx for info,will not touch the PSU

 

[Bill_Bright]

PSU is most likely OK. Just the quirk of the architecture.

That's not a quirk. That is poor design. But still, a 1200W supply should not trip the breaker unless faulty (assuming nothing else on that circuit).

Breakers work in two ways, depending on the fault, overload or short. If a short, they should trip almost instantly due to magnetic fields interrupting the circuit. But if an overload (as with inrush current), the thermal side of the breaker using a bi-metal thermal element comes into play. The bi-metal element breakers are quick, but they actually are not designed to instantly trip - that's what the magnetic side is for. They take several milliseconds to heat up enough for one side to bend enough to trip and break the circuit. And by that time the inrush current "should" have subsided.

That circuit "should" be able to handle a 1500W toaster or microwave oven.

I would not assume the PSU is "OK". Nor would I assume the breaker is bad. Everything needs to be checked - starting with making sure that PSU is the only thing on that circuit, the outlet is properly wired and grounded.

At this point, we don't even know the rated size of the breaker in the box.

 

[eidairaman1]

That's not a quirk. That is poor design. But still, a 1200W supply should not trip the breaker unless faulty (assuming nothing else on that circuit).

Breakers work in two ways, depending on the fault, overload or short. If a short, they should trip almost instantly due to magnetic fields interrupting the circuit. But if an overload (as with inrush current), the thermal side of the breaker using a bi-metal thermal element comes into play. The bi-metal element breakers are quick, but they actually are not designed to instantly trip - that's what the magnetic side is for. They take several milliseconds to heat up enough for one side to bend enough to trip and break the circuit. And by that time the inrush current "should" have subsided.

That circuit "should" be able to handle a 1500W toaster or microwave oven.

I would not assume the PSU is "OK". Nor would I assume the breaker is bad. Everything needs to be checked - starting with making sure that PSU is the only thing on that circuit, the outlet is properly wired and grounded.

At this point, we don't even know the rated size of the breaker in the box.

Breakers get worn out, i replaced a 250 main after 15-20+ years

OK, thx for info,will not touch the PSU

Get an electrician out to replace the breaker failing, replace the psu.

/thread

Apparently there's a review here on TPU. There's nearly 1000uF of input caps and relatively old design, so the inrush current is very high (around 75A according to the review). That's the culprit.

Kolink Continuum 1200 W Review

Kolink is Caseking's house brand and offers a variety of budget-oriented products. Its flagship PSU model is the Continuum 1200 W. This unit is based on an older Sirfa platform that is, however, capable of performing quite well, especially considering the attractive pricing.

www.techpowerup.com

PSU is most likely OK. Just the quirk of the architecture. They are relatively fresh, with oldest reviews only dating back to the end of 2016 - beginning of 2017. Also, surprisingly, pretty robust, efficient, and have some japanese caps, if it's of any value nowadays.

No wonder, Sirfas are CRAP!

 

[silentbogo]

That's not a quirk. That is poor design. But still, a 1200W supply should not trip the breaker unless faulty (assuming nothing else on that circuit).

Then we might as well hack off at least half of modern 1000W+ PSUs and 90% of pre-2015 high-power PSUs, since most of them had no inrush protection (but otherwise excellent PSUs).
Thermistor+Relay combo became popular only recently, and even then you may encounter situations where it's not gonna prevent this from happening (for example, having 240VAC mains).
Just read some reviews. There are many examples of bad-ass units from Seasonic or Superflower showing upwards of 50-60A inrush at 240VAC, while keeping it sub-25A at 110V.
Regardless of your opinion, this is a normal thing when you are dealing with >1000W PSUs (especially when OP keeps jerking that power cable back and forth).

At this point, we don't even know the rated size of the breaker in the box.

He lives in Croatia. Unless it's a brand-spanking new apartment with 8kW input cap, I'm more than sure that his outlets are wired over 15A breaker. If it's some 70s/80s building, then you even have a chance to trip the main breaker at the meter, since most old buildings had a cap of 1.3-1.5kW per apartment.

 

[eidairaman1]

Then we might as well hack off at least half of modern 1000W+ PSUs and 90% of pre-2015 high-power PSUs, since most of them had no inrush protection (but otherwise excellent PSUs).
Thermistor+Relay combo became popular only recently, and even then you may encounter situations where it's not gonna prevent this from happening (for example, having 240VAC mains).
Just read some reviews. There are many examples of bad-ass units from Seasonic or Superflower showing upwards of 50-60A inrush at 240VAC, while keeping it sub-25A at 110V.
Regardless of your opinion, this is a normal thing when you are dealing with >1000W PSUs (especially when OP keeps jerking that power cable back and forth).


He lives in Croatia. Unless it's a brand-spanking new apartment with 8kW input cap, I'm more than sure that his outlets are wired over 15A breaker. If it's some 70s/80s building, then you even have a chance to trip the main breaker at the meter, since most old buildings had a cap of 1.3-1.5kW per apartment.

I must be fortunate because my 1250W never tripped the breakers and i bought it in 2014 and the home was built in 1978

 

[silentbogo]

I must be fortunate because my 1250W never tripped the breakers and i bought it in 2014 and the home was built in 1978

Well, it's a bad-ass PSU. XM2 has an excellent inrush protection, plus you live in States with measly 110V mains (so, it should be even smaller).
BTW, my puny 550W SS Focus Plus Gold also has inrush protection, so apparently it becomes a norm nowadays, at least on mid/high-end. Bought it in August after my old 450W Seasonic died, enduring 6 years of abuse.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Breakers get worn out, i replaced a 250 main after 15-20+ years

Yes they do. I said that in my first post here.

Then we might as well hack off at least half of modern 1000W+ PSUs and 90% of pre-2015 high-power PSUs, since most of them had no inrush protection (but otherwise excellent PSUs).

I don't understand your point but it doesn't change mine - that 1200W supply should not trip the breaker.

He lives in Croatia.

I know. I mentioned that in my first post too. And I suspect you are right about the 15A breaker. That said, I have lived in England, Germany and Portugal (Azores) and we also had 15A but also had 20A. But that does not mean someone could have put a smaller, perhaps 10A breaker in there at some point.

If it's some...

I can come us with a dozen "ifs". They don't make it so. Therefore, once again, I say we cannot assume anything and everything must be checked.

I must be fortunate because my 1250W never tripped the breakers and i bought it in 2014 and the home was built in 1978

Must nice to have such a new home! Mine was built in 1960 and even has a bunch of aluminum wires. That said, my breakers never tripped with the 1300W EVGA G2 I had. Nor does it trip with my toaster oven, microwave, or the daughter's hair dryer - all of which are rated over 1200W and are 15A circuits.

plus you live in States with measly 110V mains

Amps are still amps, regardless the voltage pushing them. Plus, will still have 220V running the major appliances (ovens, clothes dryers, etc.).

 

[silentbogo]

Amps are still amps, regardless the voltage pushing them.

Bill, do you even know how inrush protection works? Thermistor heats up depending on current that goes through it. That current largely depends on the voltage applied. I think that's 7th grade physics, not something an old engineer like you would likely miss.
Basically the higher the input voltage, the shorter the inrush delay is. If it gets too short, your caps aren't fully charged, a relay bypasses that thermistor, and you still get a spike(just not as large as without protection).

 

[eidairaman1]

Well, it's a bad-ass PSU. XM2 has an excellent inrush protection, plus you live in States with measly 110V mains (so, it should be even smaller).
BTW, my puny 550W SS Focus Plus Gold also has inrush protection, so apparently it becomes a norm nowadays, at least on mid/high-end. Bought it in August after my old 450W Seasonic died, enduring 6 years of abuse.

120V, 240 is for ovens at 60Hz

 

[Bill_Bright]

Bill, do you even know how inrush protection works?

Yes I do.

That current largely depends on the voltage applied. I think that's 7th grade physics, not something an old engineer like you would likely miss.

It is 7th grade electronics - which of course is a branch of physics. But it is clear you missed that day because current does NOT largely depend on the voltage applied. The current depends on the load, or resistance. That's why, when the voltage is constant, as it is with the mains/grid voltage, you can take voltage totally out of the equation and end up with:

P = I² R
Where P = Power in watts, I = Current and R = Resistance.

You might try educating yourself before trying to educate others.