Mechanical keyboards that don't just die..?

[Macro Device]

View attachment 377704

Found it!

Good one but it doesn't have HDMI ports.

 

[Vayra86]

Good one but it doesn't have HDMI ports.

Nice modding task. And while you're at it, type out the first level of DOOM too, I mean, we still need that game running on this type of hardware.

 

[Scattergrunt]

Nice modding task. And while you're at it, type out the first level of DOOM too, I mean, we still need that game running on this type of hardware.

Get the BOOM sourceport running on it and I'll immediately switch to it. No questions asked. If it can run the BOOM sourceport for doom it can run just about anything I want it to run.

 

[Chrispy_]

Good one but it doesn't have HDMI ports.

It has an oil port which means you don't need HDMI

 

[Macro Device]

Nice modding task. And while you're at it, type out the first level of DOOM too, I mean, we still need that game running on this type of hardware.

I don't know how much typing speed I would need to ASCII print this game at least at 30 FPS xD

 

[silentbogo]

That's a dilema of a century. Usually the ones that don't die are the crappiest ones to use daily.
My longest-surviving keyboard is a Zalman ZM-500K(back in a day it was THE cheapest and probably the crappiest mech keyboard w/ very early version of Kailh Reds). I bought it broken for close to nothing (all of them die from failing switches), spent some cash and time to do a full Gateron Brown swap, and it still lives after almost 10 years of abuse. I still have a pack of spare switches left from that project, but I never ever used them.

It was my daily for almost 5 years and I hated every minute of it, until I went with another cheap low-profile mech KB which I love very much. Survived at least a dozen coffee spills, and all it needed is some IPA scrubbing afterwards. I still use it at my workshop. It's covered in dust and grime, some keycap stems are wobbly (note to self - order some new ones), but otherwise it's fine. Horrible to type on comparing to LP switches, but it still does what a KB should do. I'm typing on it at this very moment.

My current daily at home is Modecom Volcano Blade. Cheap chinese KB with Kailh low-profile switches. Just a simple board with single-color backlight and no fancy features. Bought it in early 2020, so it survived for almost 5 years(though no coffee spills were involved).

 

[Synthwave]

The title might be a little unclear. I learnt the hard way that most no-name keyboards as well as Razer and Logitech ones just love dying right away. Either switches go kaput or PCB goes, whatever, it's a PITA to use (if ever usable) anyway.

Is there a manufacturer that won't scam me as well? I just want a basic skeleton keyboard, I don't use it for any extremities, I don't even work as a writer anymore. I just wanna have a comfortable way to type. And yes, I am not a PEBCAK kinda guy, my keyboards DO NOT receive any damage from me. I do dry cleaning every once in a while. I never spill anything on them. Circuity had been checked multiple times, keyboards receive adequate voltage and current, it's just the build quality that unfortunately doesn't exist.

And yes, spending more than $100 on a BASIC keyboard is also scam. Do I have any option?

Filtered unwanted types out. Is there anything that's likely to last?

Yeah, well, Logitech and Razer are overpriced trash (so as SteelSeries, Corsair or any "gayming" brand which don't specialize in the field, for that matter). If not complete trash, just way too expensive for what you actually get.

Just buy a Keychron V Max/Q/Q Max series stuff or a Varmilo, and that's it. Or a buckling spring Unicomp, which is the (literal) successor of the old IBM era, and it might be your safest bet. Somebody mentioned Leopold above, that's also a good manufacturer, so as Realforce or Filco, but these are generally above your budget. Or vintage Cherry MX/buckling spring stuff (Alps is way over the budget, and it's susceptible to dust), if you can find something in that price range, but I presume you want a brand new product.


And yes, spending more than 100 USD on a BASIC keyboard is a scam. However, a GOOD mechanical keyboard is (sadly) not considered basic, so do the math... With a few exceptions, 100 USD for good stuff is only possible, if you buy something 2nd hand (or there's a big sale going on).


Your interpretation of 'good' however might be different from mine.

 

[Chrispy_]

I don't know how much typing speed I would need to ASCII print this game at least at 30 FPS xD

It depends what resolution you're intending to type at

(all of them die from failing [Kailh] switches), spent some cash and time to do a full Gateron Brown swap, and it still lives after almost 10 years of abuse.
<snip>
My current daily at home is Modecom Volcano Blade. Cheap chinese KB with Kailh low-profile switches.

I'm also done with Kailh because of switches dying off, which is why I've gone back to only buying CherryMX now. How old are the Kailh low-profile ones on your current daily?

 

[Scattergrunt]

And yes, spending more than 100 USD on a BASIC keyboard is a scam. However, a GOOD mechanical keyboard is (sadly) not considered basic, so do the math... With a few exception, 100 USD for good stuff is only possible, if you buy something 2nd hand (or there's a big sale going on).

Despite the fact I bought my Steelseries Apex Pro for like 150 USD I would probably only buy a keyboard at such a steep price if it was the baby jesus of keyboards (which the apex pro isnt, but its a great mech keyboard none the less imo, besides the fact it sucks up dirt and grime). Most I'd pay for a fullsized with with the numpad and everything is maybe 80 USD imo

 

[Chomiq]

There's always this:

Classic Style F104 Model F Keyboard – Brand New Model F Keyboards

www.modelfkeyboards.com

Brand new repro of Model F in Model M chassis. Should last you about 40 years minimum.

 

[Macro Device]

Your interpretation of 'good' however might be different from mine.

What I mean by a basic keyboard is a mechanical keyboard that has ZERO additional features. Just 104 keys and that's it. And it doesn't break until at least year 10. What I consider worth spending more than that is a keyboard you need to actively try to murder if you want it dead before year 20.

 

[Scattergrunt]

There's always this:

Classic Style F104 Model F Keyboard – Brand New Model F Keyboards

www.modelfkeyboards.com

Brand new repro of Model F in Model M chassis. Should last you about 40 years minimum.

Yea, I hope it last 40 years. At this price I better damn hope it does. In fairness, it is seemingly a custom keyboard but god damn!

 

[silentbogo]

It depends what resolution you're intending to type at

I'm also done with Kailh because of switches dying off. How old are the Kailh low-profile ones on your current daily?

almost 5 years. They are pretty good nowadays, actually. Fixed most of their problems pretty much right after Razer+Kailh fiasco. Haven't used their newer full-size switches, but their low-profile keys and mouse tactile switches are considered pretty good(and due to price - still popular for DIY projects and repairs).

 

[Chomiq]

View attachment 377707
Yea, I hope it last 40 years. At this price I better damn hope it does. In fairness, it is seemingly a custom keyboard but god damn!

More like $450 if you count the first aid kit which is recommended, but that's just what? $11 a year?

 

[Macro Device]

There's always this:

Classic Style F104 Model F Keyboard – Brand New Model F Keyboards

www.modelfkeyboards.com

Brand new repro of Model F in Model M chassis. Should last you about 40 years minimum.

4 Franklins + I don't even wanna know how much pain to get it shipped to Russia + not even a given it won't be quaked up by logistics. One of the longest shots for sure. I'd risk it if I had a reliable source of at least a hundred dollar daily income but not the case.

 

[Chrispy_]

What I mean by a basic keyboard is a mechanical keyboard that has ZERO additional features. Just 104 keys and that's it. And it doesn't break until at least year 10. What I consider worth spending more than that is a keyboard you need to actively try to murder if you want it dead before year 20.

Cherry MX2 or ‎Cherry G80-3000?
You want LOUD switches that last forever? That's Cherry MX Blue, alright....

Ducky would be the other suggestion for a zero-BS keyboard with Cherry MX Blue:
(Ducky Origin One, the most basic of basic 104-key keyboards, built like a tank with chunky plastic and a thick steel baseplate)

 

[Synthwave]

It depends what resolution you're intending to type at

I'm also done with Kailh because of switches dying off, which is why I've gone back to only buying CherryMX now. How old are the Kailh low-profile ones on your current daily?

Old Kailh and new Kailh are very different. Their clicky BOX switches (White/Jade/Navy) are pretty awesome, so as the BOX Ice Cream Pro series.

Cherry MX is only nice, if you spend time with it. Switching springs to Geon or TX, then breaking them in with a few hundred thousand actuations, and then lube them. Aluminum plate recommended (or plateless, if you will solder them). They are pretty stellar like that (well, except the MX Blue), but bone stock...eh, no thanks.

What I mean by a basic keyboard is a mechanical keyboard that has ZERO additional features. Just 104 keys and that's it. And it doesn't break until at least year 10. What I consider worth spending more than that is a keyboard you need to actively try to murder if you want it dead before year 20.

If you don't really want to game on it (at least not first or third person shooters), just buy a buckling spring Unicomp board for about 150 bucks, and profit.

Despite the fact I bought my Steelseries Apex Pro for like 150 USD I would probably only buy a keyboard at such a steep price if it was the baby jesus of keyboards (which the apex pro isnt, but its a great mech keyboard none the less imo, besides the fact it sucks up dirt and grime). Most I'd pay for a fullsized with with the numpad and everything is maybe 80 USD imo

If we are talking about brand new and good stuff, that's a very low budget. Again, sadly, but factoring in the inflation (and what your money worth at the supermarket), the good stuff is actually cheaper than ever.

If I'd want to buy something conventional and unused around 100 bucks, most probably I'd get a Keychron V6 Max (V5 Max, rather).

 

[Scattergrunt]

More like $450 if you count the first aid kit which is recommended, but that's just what? $11 a year?

I mean fair enough but thats IF it lasts 40 years. I'm pretty doubtful of that, no offense.. It probably doesnt help im not familiar with those guys as well

If we are talking about brand new and good stuff, that's a very low budget. Again, sadly, but factoring in the inflation (and what your money worth at the supermarket), the good stuff is actually cheaper than ever.

If I'd want to buy something conventional and unused around 100 bucks, most probably I'd get a Keychron V6 Max (V5 Max, rather).

Yea, but like you said, its really up to what you consider 'good', and my standards aren't super high.. decent switches, build quality that isn't atrocious cancer, no gimmick stuff (this is really funny when you remember what keyboard im currently rocking), etc. Keyboards are partly subjective to an extent depending on the use case

 

[Synthwave]

Yea, but like you said, its really up to what you consider 'good', and my standards aren't super high.. decent switches, build quality that isn't atrocious cancer, no gimmick stuff (this is really funny when you remember what keyboard im currently rocking), etc. Keyboards are partly subjective to an extent depending on the use case

And that's why I would buy a Keychron V5 Max/V6 Max for that kind of money (well, personally a V8 Max, or a K11 Max, if I wanted something low profile). : >

HE switches are absolutely not a gimmick. You just have to play (FPS titles) on a really high level to gain the undisputable advantage they provide. For everything else, you are much better off with a nice, standard mechanical custom board.

 

[Scattergrunt]

HE switches are absolutely not a gimmick. You just have to play (FPS titles) on a really high level to gain the undisputable advantage they provide. For everything else, you are much better off with a nice, standard mechanical custom board.

I wasn't specifically trying to say those are a gimmick, but some people do genuinely not care for those, oddly enough (as someone who likes to be a sweat in online games.. thats a fat YES! from me. I really should change keyboards soon.) The jump from membrane to mechanical keyboard is already huge for FPS titles so going form that to HE switches is pretty big.

 

[Onasi]

Actually, since it was brought up in the thread I wanted to ask @Chrispy_ as a fellow CM QuickFire enjoyer (mine is MX Blacks and will also be 12 or 13 years next year with no issues) - have you tried any cap swaps on it? Only thing that slowly deteriorates on my over time is the legends (I have the non-Stealth version) and I am curious if you had any experience with replacing them potentially with some better PBT ones. I am assuming that any similar layout set should work - it IS standard MX stem after all.

But yeah, I have no idea how CM got those so right - I think the board will outlive me at this point.

 

[AusWolf]

I just hit buttons with considerable enough force for them to activate but nothing more than that. It's just their build quality doesn't exist.

That must be some considerable enough force alright.

Anyway, I support the idea of the Cherry MX.

 

[Chrispy_]

Actually, since it was brought up in the thread I wanted to ask @Chrispy_ as a fellow CM QuickFire enjoyer (mine is MX Blacks and will also be 12 or 13 years next year with no issues) - have you tried any cap swaps on it? Only thing that slowly deteriorates on my over time is the legends (I have the non-Stealth version) and I am curious if you had any experience with replacing them potentially with some better PBT ones. I am assuming that any similar layout set should work - it IS standard MX stem after all.

But yeah, I have no idea how CM got those so right - I think the board will outlive me at this point.

Pretty sure mine are PBT already, zero degredation - they're still textured slightly rather than worn smooth like ABS tends to get.

I cannot even tell the finish difference between WASD/ASDF and something like F7 which is a key I don't think I use for anything, ever. Both still have that slightly-matte surface texture.

I take the caps off every couple of years and scrub them in a bowl of detergent to remove skin oils and gradual grime buildup, but it's not like I give them a second thought like I do with ABS keycaps or anything with printed letters on them.

 

[Onasi]

@Chrispy_
Yeah, I clean using the same method. I think since mine is an earlier model (?) the caps might be ABS, though the texture is still fine. Might just grab some Ducky or Vortex or maybe custom fabbed caps from a local keeb enthusiast store later down the line though just to refresh it. That, and probably should lube up the spacebar, that one started squeaking a bit.

 

[Macro Device]

That must be some considerable enough force alright.

I might be a macaco forte but I'm not a louco total.

I don't Hulk my keyboard.