My new Platinum psu died after one day of gaming!

[rtwjunkie]

I built my own gaming pc last year. After finally getting the monitor for it recently, I
tried to fire it up but I only was able to enjoy one session of gaming, but oh it was so nice!
I was super careful, followed all of the manual instructions and even had my brother help
me along the way with some things. I double, triple and beyond checked all of my connections.
I used pcpartpicker to make sure that all of my parts would be compatible with each other.
My gpu recommended a 600 watt psu, so I got the evga 650 P2, which was one of the
best rated psu's on JonnyGuru.com So what did I do to mess everything up? Or what did
my ups do? (or my psu for that matter!?)

I had a platinum evga P2 650 psu die on me, probably because I accidently overloaded the ups system it was
plugged into. Now I need a new psu for 650 watts that is highly rated to perform well and have a lower
chance of it dying and taking out other hardware with it. Not that I think the evga psu did..I checked my
pc components after it popped and my MB and gpu seemed to be okay. I didn't smell any smoke or see
any burnt marks. I think my ups might of helped save my other pc parts by forcing the psu to shut off before
it could do anything really crazy. My ups by Cyberpower is rated for up to 810 watts. It had a error code after
the psu went out, meaning that it wanted me to unplug an electronic from the ups and then turn it back on.
At first I just thought it went out because it was faulty, which might still be the case as well.

My gaming pc specs are..


Asus tuf gaming wifi plus motherboard
Ryzen 7 3700x
Crucial ballistix elite 16 gig x1 ddr4 3200 cl16
Samsung 970 evo plus 250 gig m.2 2280 nvme ssd
Gigabtye Radoen RX 5700 xt 8 g OC
Lian Li Lancool II-W atx mid-tower
Evga P2 750 watt 80+ platinum atx psu
Asus tuf gaming 1440p VG27AQ 165 Hz Monitor

The day before I was running my new gaming rig just fine and I also had my Dell pc plugged in.
But my evga psu must have overloaded my ups the next day because its inrush current spiked too high
for the ups to handle upon start up. Here's how it all happened..

I was on my old Dell pc, which probably only runs on a couple hundred watts, and after I was finishing
up some work, I leaned over to start up my gaming pc, first forgeting to shutdown my Dell and unplug
it from the ups first, just to be on the safe side to not overload it. I got a loud pop and a brief flash of light
from the case and then my ups starting emitting a loud constant beep with an error code "F02". My
ups is the LX1325gu by Cyberpower. After that I tried to plug back in my gaming psu (evga 650 P2)
and flip the power switch in the back, but every time I did my ups hit me with the same error message.
After a few tries the psu didn't even seem to do anything anymore after I reset my ups. I tested the
psu with a MB 24 pin power tester and the fan didn't spin nor did I see any power light come on.

How can I make sure that my next psu won't do the same thing to my gaming pc, assuming that
all of my other components are okay? I still want to go with another 650 W psu. But I'm trying
to find a good rated one for reliability, performance and safety. They seem kind of hard to find
and there just isn't enough information about the longer term performance of psu's by its actual
users online. I've been reading psu reviews on Amazon and it seems that a lot of users report bad
reviews of their psu dying and taking other pc components with it for most of the psu brands but
not evga as much as the others. This almost makes it seem that the brand evga is more safe and
reliable than say, Corsair or Thermaltake. What do you guys think?

As for where I will plug my new psu, i still prefer to have it plugged into my ups (as long as it
doesn't get overloaded) I tried to look up some info on my ups about its watt power limits
on the battery back up side, which includes AVR. However I couldn't find much of anything
on that. I assume it has the same watt limits on either surge only or surge plus battery
protection outlets. I also thought of getting a good quality surge power strip to maybe
just plug my gaming pc into that. But then I thought what if I only use my ups for just
my gaming psu, the asus monitor and my modem and router? That would only produce up
to 700 watts with a 650 psu. The gaming Asus monitor uses 27 watts, the modem only uses 9
watts and I couldn't find out what my router uses but I'm guessing only like another 9 to 12
watts. There shouldn't be any chance of a ups overload then, right? My ups is rated for 810
watts.

One thing I did notice is your UPS is Simulated Sine Wave. Specifically, for sensitive electronics, a Pure Sine Wave output is recommended. Cyberpower’s variant that is about the same Wattage output is about $100 more. The description on your model also states it is cost effective for those that don’t require Sine Wave output.

That in itself shouldn’t have killed your PSU (it may have just been a bad PSU- it happens), but it is certainly is something I would consider changing if I were you and you still want a UPS. It does some real good with Automatic Voltage Regulation, as well as surge protection, brownout support, and immediate battery backup for power loss, allowing safe shutdown and saving of work.

 

[ArkJinx7]

Transient on the 3.3V I don't think actually affects much. All your major power draw components are coming off other rails.

3.3V nowadays iirc just powers the memory primarily, and the "other shit" category (think additional controllers the vendor wants on the board). Some of the VRM components can be powered by 3.3V depending on component choice (some power vendors will make 2 versions of the same DrMOS for 3.3V and 5V), but I'm pretty sure the 3.3V is just used to start the VRM, not to power the CPU. And transient response is pretty far down the DDR4 list of priorities I think.

I'm not a fan of the in-cable caps because Seasonic's cables are already stiff as hell but I've never run with them anyways because I use Cablemod on both my rigs. It's not a difference that you'll ever be able to notice when using your PC, only a consideration for Seasonic so they can advertise perfect performance, and for reviewers to take points off for not-absolutely-perfect ripple performance. If it was a cheap PSU where they used in-cable caps to band-aid shitty electrical performance I can understand the concern, but Seasonic Focus and PRIME aren't that type of PSU.

EMI seems to be a pet peeve of aris', seems like he has some fancy equipment to measure it. Can't tell you much about it.

Thank you for that helpful info! Just out of curiousty, since I hear that with most psu's the cable are hard to work with
and very stiff, what were some of the best psu's for their provided cables? I read that Fractal designs cables are very
easy to work with and their psu's are all about high performance.

One thing I did notice is your UPS is Simulated Sine Wave. Specifically, for sensitive electronics, a Pure Sine Wave output is recommended. Cyberpower’s variant that is about the same Wattage output is about $100 more. The description on your model also states it is cost effective for those that don’t require Sine Wave output.

That in itself shouldn’t have killed your PSU (it may have just been a bad PSU- it happens), but it is certainly is something I would consider changing if I were you and you still want a UPS. It does some real good with Automatic Voltage Regulation, as well as surge protection, brownout support, and immediate battery backup for power loss, allowing safe shutdown and saving of work.

So you mean that the ups with the pure sine wave output would play nicer with a high wattage psu? My ups already does
all of those things listed, except for maybe brownouts? Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I'm going to ever use
my ups with a higher end psu again. I will get a power surge protection strip though.

 

[tabascosauz]

Thank you for that helpful info! Just out of curiousty, since I hear that with most psu's the cable are hard to work with
and very stiff, what were some of the best psu's for their provided cables? I read that Fractal designs cables are very
easy to work with and their psu's are all about high performance.


So you mean that the ups with the pure sine wave output would play nicer with a high wattage psu? My ups already does
all of those things listed, except for maybe brownouts? Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I'm going to ever use
my ups with a higher end psu again. I will get a power surge protection strip though.

All the companies vary as to the softness of their cables but Fractal is the only one that stands apart from the rest I think with their Ultraflex stuff. Nothing really compares to sleeved custom cables though, except maybe Fractal. Just take your time, massage and coax them the way you want them to go, and be mindful of where the caps are if they have in-cable caps.

Real sinewave is theoretically better for compatibility because whether a PSU will have problems with simulated/stepped wave is not very clear-cut. Active PFC PSUs (actually I think most decent quality, modern PSUs are active PFC) theoretically can have problems and shut off when a simulated/stepped wave UPS is on battery. Some people have problems, some don't, it's hard to say. Only one way to find out.

I have a APC BR1500MS, although it is a bit more expensive along with the Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD both are true sinewave. No problems with any of my PSUs.

Also keep in mind that the number rating on UPSes is not the load wattage rating. The actual watts rating is much lower. Mine is rated for 1500VA but that's really just 900W output on battery load. A 900VA unit would be around 560W output. Is yours the CP900AVR? I can see a 810W Cyberpower unit, but it's pure sinewave and a 1325VA unit.

Scratch that, I see that you have the LX1325GU. Should be easy to unplug the UPS just to test if battery backup causes the PC to shut down.

 

[bikemanI7]

I Use a UPS with mine, i have for years, come to think of it, i never tested it manually with my newer Gaming System how it handles a power outage at all. Thankfully i never had a PSU die as yet, guess i'm lucky myself, just had my old UPS die itself and PC wouldn't turn on in late 2018, purchased a APC Backup Plus 1350 after that, 810 watt, probably more than i need, but should last me a while. Power outages less at new residence though, so doesn't cycle to battery much at all, except a Self test now and then

 

[Operandi]

Okay, thank you so much! I will mainly be focusing on volt regulation, transient and ripple then! My main concern is to
protect my gaming hardware. There is a minor issue with transient on the 3.3v minor rail, should I be concerned? Listed as a major
con to the Seasonic focus PX 750. Well the 3.3V rail is just listed as average response. Or are the minor rails not as concerning
in transient response as the main 12v and 5V5b rails are? Also, what is your take on in-cable capacitors? A lot of pros and
users alike hate them, but they help offer better ripple control. And is EMI spikes ever a concern for a psu? For some reason
the PX focus 750 has them in spades.

Thanks! It's just that I've been waiting over a year and a half to use my gaming pc since I finally got my monitor recently and now this
happens and delays me even longer. I'm tired of waiting to game. The one day of gaming I experienced was one of the best
moments of my life. For Dell psu's, that makes sense why they last so long!

LOL, F dude, you really do over think shit.

The PSUs you had that died was very good unit, you just got a bad one, all of of the ones you are looking at for replacements are for all intents and purposes equally very good as well. One might have slightly better voltage regulation and another better ripple control but really they are distinctions with no real world difference.

The unit in your OEM Dell by comparison is junk. Like everything in a OEM PC its built to a price point, just enough performance to meet governmental regulations, and whichever OEM is lowest bidder that has enough manufacturing quality to not cause a bunch of warranty returns. Another thing to keep in mind is the cheap OEM PSU is a lot simpler with fewer components and less to go wrong in comparison to a high-end Seasonic or Corsair. Think of if like a loaded 911 vs. base level Camry, both have very high build quality and can be very reliable but the 911 just has more that can go wrong. The good news there is usually when it comes to stuff braking in cars it happens in the first year, with PC hardware the first few weeks.

So you mean that the ups with the pure sine wave output would play nicer with a high wattage psu? My ups already does
all of those things listed, except for maybe brownouts? Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I'm going to ever use
my ups with a higher end psu again. I will get a power surge protection strip though.

No, just use your UPS if you have it and its still good. The UPS had nothing to do with your PSU dieing and is already going to offer more protection than most/any surge protector.

 

[rtwjunkie]

So you mean that the ups with the pure sine wave output would play nicer with a high wattage psu? My ups already does
all of those things listed, except for maybe brownouts? Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I'm going to ever use
my ups with a higher end psu again. I will get a power surge protection strip though

No, I said I doubt it hurt your PSU. You are better off with one than without one. All I was pointing out is that in the long run for the protection of the rest of your parts, think about taking the step up, and use that one for less sensitive electronics.

 

[ArkJinx7]

All the companies vary as to the softness of their cables but Fractal is the only one that stands apart from the rest I think with their Ultraflex stuff. Nothing really compares to sleeved custom cables though, except maybe Fractal. Just take your time, massage and coax them the way you want them to go, and be mindful of where the caps are if they have in-cable caps.

Real sinewave is theoretically better for compatibility because whether a PSU will have problems with simulated/stepped wave is not very clear-cut. Active PFC PSUs (actually I think most decent quality, modern PSUs are active PFC) theoretically can have problems and shut off when a simulated/stepped wave UPS is on battery. Some people have problems, some don't, it's hard to say. Only one way to find out.

I have a APC BR1500MS, although it is a bit more expensive along with the Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD both are true sinewave. No problems with any of my PSUs.

Also keep in mind that the number rating on UPSes is not the load wattage rating. The actual watts rating is much lower. Mine is rated for 1500VA but that's really just 900W output on battery load. A 900VA unit would be around 560W output. Is yours the CP900AVR? I can see a 810W Cyberpower unit, but it's pure sinewave and a 1325VA unit.

Scratch that, I see that you have the LX1325GU. Should be easy to unplug the UPS just to test if battery backup causes the PC to shut down.

Yeah Fractal is kind of one of a kind psu brand! I love the look of their branding and how they insist on
a readily available Platinum line! What are sleeved custom cables? How can you be sure they are safe
to use with said psu? Psu's always recommend to "only" use their own provided cables. I've never had
in capacitor cables so curious to use them. For my setup, would you recommend a platinum Fractal psu?

Well that explains a lot! Great information here, thank you! I guess then to be on the safe side I shouldn't
use my Lx1325gu ups for higher end electronics that may be more sensitive unless I use a real pure sinewave.
At least not use the "battery area" protection of the ups. Does this mean I'd probably be fine using say the
Seasonic focus PX 750 W on the surge only side of my ups? If I only use that, my Asus monitor and internet
modem and router? estimated at only using a max up to 798 watts. (Asus monitor uses 27 watts, modem 9
and the router don't know, but assume like another 9 or 12 watts.)

 

[tabascosauz]

Yeah Fractal is kind of one of a kind psu brand! I love the look of their branding and how they insist on
a readily available Platinum line! What are sleeved custom cables? How can you be sure they are safe
to use with said psu? Psu's always recommend to "only" use their own provided cables. I've never had
in capacitor cables so curious to use them. For my setup, would you recommend a platinum Fractal psu?

Well that explains a lot! Great information here, thank you! I guess then to be on the safe side I shouldn't
use my Lx1325gu ups for higher end electronics that may be more sensitive unless I use a real pure sinewave.
At least not use the "battery area" protection of the ups. Does this mean I'd probably be fine using say the
Seasonic focus PX 750 W on the surge only side of my ups? If I only use that, my Asus monitor and internet
modem and router? estimated at only using a max up to 798 watts. (Asus monitor uses 27 watts, modem 9
and the router don't know, but assume like another 9 or 12 watts.)

The Fractal Ion+ line is okay on performance, nothing too special compared to Focus PX. It does have a lower price tag than the competition, a comparable warranty and the Ultraflex cables. Up to you which route you wanna go.

There's a whole world of custom cables out there, whether you buy a kit made by Cablemod to fit a specific PSU line, or go full custom and order each cable to your specifications including the colour scheme, bends, and length from a small vendor like Pslate or Pexon. Stuff gets expensive real fast.

Don't be scared of using your existing UPS - putting your computer on the Surge Only side would defeat the purpose of having a UPS...lol. If you've had multiple outages already and the battery has been kicking in with no ill effects to your computer, then obviously your PSU doesn't have a compatibility problem with the UPS. Just saying that moving forward, pure sinewave does present less potential compatibility issues with Active PFC PSUs but it costs more for pretty much the same electrical performance and capacity, so again it's completely up to you. If it ain't broke don't fix it

800W of actual usage is a lot. What do you have plugged into the UPS?? I have a 3700X with a hell of a lot of drives internal and external, and a 2060 Super and if I'm gaming I'd have to push it to see even 325W total draw on the UPS. If you're actually drawing 800W on the daily, you won't have much battery time in an outage...next to none, actually, since it's rated at like 810W...

 

[ArkJinx7]

LOL, F dude, you really do over think shit.

The PSUs you had that died was very good unit, you just got a bad one, all of of the ones you are looking at for replacements are for all intents and purposes equally very good as well. One might have slightly better voltage regulation and another better ripple control but really they are distinctions with no real world difference.

The unit in your OEM Dell by comparison is junk. Like everything in a OEM PC its built to a price point, just enough performance to meet governmental regulations, and whichever OEM is lowest bidder that has enough manufacturing quality to not cause a bunch of warranty returns. Another thing to keep in mind is the cheap OEM PSU is a lot simpler with fewer components and less to go wrong in comparison to a high-end Seasonic or Corsair. Think of if like a loaded 911 vs. base level Camry, both have very high build quality and can be very reliable but the 911 just has more that can go wrong. The good news there is usually when it comes to stuff braking in cars it happens in the first year, with PC hardware the first few weeks.


No, just use your UPS if you have it and its still good. The UPS had nothing to do with your PSU dieing and is already going to offer more protection than most/any surge protector.

That makes sense to me why a more simplistic psu with less that can go wrong with it will last longer than a more complicated
one that may only last one week or even one day, like in my case. I would "prefer" to use my ups with my new psu, at least
on the surge only side, but how can I be sure aside from a battery only test that it won't kill another psu of mine? I suspect
it did because after the psu shut off the ups flared up with a error code "Fo2". Battery output short, please unplug at least
one electronic from the ups and turn it back on) I really did suspect as well that "my ups is going to offer more protection
than just a power surge stripe" but then you guys were telling me that I don't need it unless my area has frequent power
drops and that the ups isn't going to be able to protect my other pc hardware that the psu is connected to any better
than the psu itself. I'm still not sure weather I fully believe that or not. So to use my ups with my gaming setup or not?

1) What is the best way to protect my other pc hardware?
2) Is the ups overkill for surge only usage or not?
3) Can a 750 watt psu actually trip a surge only protection ups if it is not over
the rated watts limit? My 650 evga P2 apparently was.
At that time I had my evga 650 about to start up with my asus monitor, along
with my internet modem and router, as well as my old Dell pc I bought at
Microcenter back in 2014. I have the inspirition 660. However my modem
and router were only plugged into the surge only side.

No, I said I doubt it hurt your PSU. You are better off with one than without one. All I was pointing out is that in the long run for the protection of the rest of your parts, think about taking the step up, and use that one for less sensitive electronics.

Okay, I will do that, thank you! So does the non pure sinewave ups also possibly have issues on the surge only side?
Or is this truly just a battery protection issue for more sensitive electronics?

The Fractal Ion+ line is okay on performance, nothing too special compared to Focus PX. It does have a lower price tag than the competition, a comparable warranty and the Ultraflex cables. Up to you which route you wanna go.

There's a whole world of custom cables out there, whether you buy a kit made by Cablemod to fit a specific PSU line, or go full custom and order each cable to your specifications including the colour scheme, bends, and length from a small vendor like Pslate or Pexon. Stuff gets expensive real fast.

Don't be scared of using your existing UPS - putting your computer on the Surge Only side would defeat the purpose of having a UPS...lol. If you've had multiple outages already and the battery has been kicking in with no ill effects to your computer, then obviously your PSU doesn't have a compatibility problem with the UPS. Just saying that moving forward, pure sinewave does present less potential compatibility issues with Active PFC PSUs but it costs more for pretty much the same electrical performance and capacity, so again it's completely up to you. If it ain't broke don't fix it

800W of actual usage is a lot. What do you have plugged into the UPS?? I have a 3700X with a hell of a lot of drives internal and external, and a 2060 Super and if I'm gaming I'd have to push it to see even 325W total draw on the UPS. If you're actually drawing 800W on the daily, you won't have much battery time in an outage...next to none, actually, since it's rated at like 810W...

Yeah compared to the higher tier psu of the Seasonic focus PX, Fractal design is only average on performance. Wow, I had
no idea of the big custom cables world! I just had a image of walking into a fancy mall that has a small store that sells nothing
but custom cable brands with creative designs of cables in different colors and lengths hanging from the walls. I'll definitely
be checking this out later, especially if I find it hard to use the provided cables with my psu. That's cool, I also have the 3700x!
I don't know but I'm thinking that 650 watt psu was a bit to high for the ups rated for 810 if I'm using anything more than
just my psu and gaming monitor. However the 750 watt I was looking at might be too much for just the gaming setup!

But I have decided to just use my ups for just my older pc's and other small electronics like my internet modem. I loved
the idea of being able to game even if I had a power shut off but that's not anything critical for activity. I'll probably be
getting another ups later that can handle even more watts and one that is pure sinewave, which then I might try with
my gaming setup but for now I'll just use a power strip. Thank you guys so much for your help!

I decided to finally go ahead and order the Seasonic focus PX 750. Thank you all for the helpful guidance along
the way! I'm really looking forward to using it with my gaming build, it should be here by next Monday. I got
the 4 year protection plan with it, which will provide better product support with hassle free replacements or
a product refund to buy another if anything goes wrong. I figured that the 20-30 in shipping that I'd pay just
to receive a replacement or repair from the limited warranty would already pay for itself. Seasonic has noted
that sometimes motherboards or even the bios can give false voltage readings to the psu and cause the psu
to turn off to protect itself and the other hardware its plugged into. Also Asus motherboards, which is what I
have can sometimes have issues with pc restarts. Lets hope that mine won't. I like how Seasonic psu's are
designed to shutdown if they detect any improper voltage that could damage hardware. I feel pretty safe going
with this awesome product despite the few negative Amazon reviews. If you click on just 5 star reviews, there are
so many of them and one user said that his Seasonic was on 24/7 and powered high end gpu and cpu and many
hhd's for over 7 years and has never had a problem with it! Now that is impressive! I love it's voltage regulation! It
is the highest no doubt in its class! 140 seems like a good deal!

 

[Caring1]

Wow, use a power strip for the old computers and plug your main system and router/ modem into the UPS.
You're going to be doing it backwards.

 

[maxfly]

The dude that told you not to use your ups and to plug the psu into the wall was/is giving you bad advice. Full stop. End of story.

Absolutely use your pc connected to your ups with battery back up, thats what its intended for, to give you time to shut down your computer if there is a power outage. The surge strip portion is for unimportant things like your desk lamp not your computer.
The ups had nothing to do with your psu dying. Its there to protect your pc. The error that the ups gave after the psu died was caused by the psu NOT the ups. When you hit the ups power button it simply caused another error because it couldnt communicate with your pc.

 

[ThrashZone]

Thanks so much to everyone trying to help me with your helpful comments! That was not really expected.
So yes, at certain random times, I would have my main power just suddenly go out in the neighborhood.
Of course every now and then from the short random thunder storm as well. So I got tired of all of that and
got myself a good ups. I just got used to plugging all of my main important electronics into it. And yes, you
are right. My psu likely died on me because I overloaded it from my ups overloading. I wouldn't of thought
the inrush current could be SO high on the psu to cause a power start up spike but apparently that's what
happened according to my ups. It's rated for only up to 810 watts.


No I did not! This might be something to try, thanks! I only tried to run a motherboard power
test with the provided psu power 24 pin tester about 10 minutes after it popped on me and
tripped my ups. Could it be possible that my psu would still work fine after that bad incident?
I believe that the rest of my pc components are okay but I'm not 100% sure yet. Can a regular
power surge protector strip help protect the psu from damaging the rest of my pc components,
similar to what my ups does? If so, I'll just use a power surge strip in the future with my gaming pc.
What type of strip should I get?


The ups gave a battery output short error and told me to unplug something and then restart it. It was too much power
for it to draw from my gaming evga 650 P2 psu. Maybe my psu ws just faulty? However I'm not sure yet if my psu is
okay or not? The fan would not spin at all earlier after 10 minutes of it popping when I tested it away from the rest
of the computer components. But I haven't tried yet since the incident to test it again for normal power opperation.
Hmm, I see. Thank you for your input experience with using ups system, this is very helpful! From what I know about apc
ups products, they aren't as good in quality as cyberpower ones. I've been very happy with my cyberpower ups so far
since I bought it last year. It has already saved my older Dell computer from randomly turning off or restarting due
to a sudden spike in my power or from a thunder storm. I was able to save my work and keep my pc on until the main
power came back on. I also have my ethernet plugged into it for extra added protection.

So for the purpose of what I do on my Dell computer and using with my internet modem and router (monitor included)
my ups is definitely worth it! However when gaming I'm not doing anything very critical (well unless I'm in a good battle
royale match and about to win before the power cuts out) so I wouldn't see myself really needing to be plugged into my
ups. So I will take your advice on that one, thanks!


A while back we had a electition come in a upgrade most of our outlets to handle more power drawed from them
so they wouldn't trip the power as easily. SInce that upgrade we haven't really had any bad power trips, so I don't
think that would be an issue. Also if the outlet wasn't grounded properly, my ups would alert me of this.
The said outlet that my ups is plugged into "might" have not been one of the outlets that were "upgraded"
because when the electritian was here, I had some stuff in their way, blocking access to a few of my outlets and
I was busy and they just said, whatever and left. I know, probably not a good move. But like I said we haven't
had any bad power trips on any of our outlets since the upgrade. Also I believe that my said wall outlet that the
ups is plugged into is only a 15 amp. Would this be a problem with a 650 watt psu or a 810 watt rated ups?


Not yet but I did register my psu on evga's site and upload my invoice to help speed up a
possible rma process. Apparently I'd have to pay over 20 in shipping and other possible fees.
I already spent over 100 on this psu, and that was for a good deal brand new unit. I rather not
end up speeding another 30 to 50 bucks just to have them tell me that they won't issue a replacement
or repair. I read though their limited warranty terms and they said they don't do rma's for power
short accidents, which is likely what my case is. So it sounds like there would be a very slim chance
of getting approved for a rma, unless my psu was actually defective and they could determine this
upon inspection. Right now I'm just trying to figure out what was the real cause of my psu dying on
me. From what I gather at this point, it appears to be human error unfortunately. Evga just sent me
a message, lets see what they have to say and if they might be willing to issue me a rma. But I will
also try testing my psu again like suggested to see if it might be working again now. (I'd be so happy!)

Hi,
No 15amp would be fine if not too many other items are also sharing the same circuit like in other rooms with t.v.'s/ lights/.....
So yeah if pc/ printer and stuff like that is all that is sharing this circuit it would be fine.

 

[ArkJinx7]

Hello, I got my new psu but I haven't hooked it up yet. I got a ten outlet power strip with surge protection that
I was gonna use with my new psu. But now some others here are telling me to do what I was originally trying
to do. I thought since my ups (Lx1325gu by Cyberpower) isn't a pure sinewave rated ups it could cause issues
being plugged into a psu? Well in any case, my new psu would be too close to the rated max watts it can use
so I'm probably still just going to use my new power strip, but thanks for the help.

My ups is rated for a max of 810 watts, my new psu is 750 watt, plug my asus gaming monitor uses up to 27
watts and then the modem uses 9 watts. That's too close to call right? And I don't even know what my router
uses for watts, there wasn't any information on it online. It is a Linkey's. And if I ever forgot this and plugged
in another pc it would overload everything.

@maxfly I'm too scared to try plugging in another new expensive psu into my ups, even though I'd really
prefer to do it this way. I'm too worried that I'll kill another one of my psu's. Exactly "how much" extra
protection do you think my ups with AVR and battery protection would provide than just using my power
strip https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MW1LBLQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
aside from the chance to save work and do a proper shutdown, which wouldn't really be a concern on my
gaming pc? I read that my power strip comes with a full suit of power circuit protection. Isn't the psu's main
job to protect the other pc components that it's plugged into and extra surge protection would only provide
some support to the psu?

 

[maxfly]

youve got to read the product information about your ups to understand what it provides. your jumping to conclusions using bad information! your ups already provides what your powerstrip does and much much more at a far higher quality. your thinking about this backwards. the ups didnt cause the psu to die. the psu died on its own. it happens, bad psus are a part of building computers. your computer will never pull the 750watts that your psu is rated for and you will never reach the maximum 810watts that your ups provides with only your pc, monitor and modem. the average gaming rig might pull 500 watts underload INCLUDING periferals but thats stretching it. your ups has software that will tell you how many watts your pulling underload anyhow so you will know exactly how much you are using. read the manual, understand what you have. THEN make an informed decision about what to do.

LX1325GU

A mini-tower UPS with line interactive topology, the CyberPower LX1325GU provides battery backup (using simulated sine wave output) and surge protection for desktop computers, workstations, networking devices, and home entertainment systems. The LX1325GU uses Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR)...

www.cyberpowersystems.com

 

[ArkJinx7]

youve got to read the product information about your ups to understand what it provides. your jumping to conclusions using bad information! your ups already provides what your powerstrip does and much much more at a far higher quality. your thinking about this backwards. the ups didnt cause the psu to die. the psu died on its own. it happens, bad psus are a part of building computers. your computer will never pull the 750watts that your psu is rated for and you will never reach the maximum 810watts that your ups provides with only your pc, monitor and modem. the average gaming rig might pull 500 watts underload INCLUDING periferals but thats stretching it. your ups has software that will tell you how many watts your pulling underload anyhow so you will know exactly how much you are using. read the manual, understand what you have. THEN make an informed decision about what to do.

LX1325GU

A mini-tower UPS with line interactive topology, the CyberPower LX1325GU provides battery backup (using simulated sine wave output) and surge protection for desktop computers, workstations, networking devices, and home entertainment systems. The LX1325GU uses Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR)...

www.cyberpowersystems.com

Okay, I will do that, thanks! So I shouldn't be concerned that a high inrush current of 60 on the 240VAC could make
the psu possibly draw close up to its max watt of 750?

 

[maxfly]

no your ups will ptotect your psu. it will never reach your rig.

 

[ArkJinx7]

no your ups will ptotect your psu. it will never reach your rig.

It is not "pure sinewave" though, which is used for more sensitive electronics like psu's on computers.
You should go back and fully read up on what we were discussing earlier. So as it turns out, my ups
only uses simulated sinewave which may cause issues with my psu. That's why I was just going to use
a power strip. Most people here were in a agreement with me on that. Thanks for your help though!

When my first brand new psu died, it caused a "fo2" error on my ups, meaning a battery output short
error. It was overloaded. I assumed because the battery reached its max output watts but it may of just been
of simulated sinewave issue or just a coincidence with a faulty psu, not sure.

 

[ThrashZone]

It is not "pure sinewave" though, which is used for more sensitive electronics like psu's on computers.
You should go back and fully read up on what we were discussing earlier. So as it turns out, my ups
only uses simulated sinewave which may cause issues with my psu. That's why I was just going to use
a power strip. Most people here were in a agreement with me on that. Thanks for your help though!

Hi,
I've been using a simulated sine wave for years on my computers it's not a big deal
I have x299 and z490 rigs on the same apc xs1500 which is simulated sine wave.

My entertainment center computer now 13 years old it's always been on a simulated sine way until 4 months ago and still alive and kicking so I wouldn't worry about it.
Only stink is do not use a surge protector on it to get to a outlet just use a real 12 gauge wire extension cord "short as possible" if you need one to get to a wall outlet.

You can connect a power strip to a battery backup it will just drain the battery quicker if connected to the battery side.

 

[tabascosauz]

It is not "pure sinewave" though, which is used for more sensitive electronics like psu's on computers.
You should go back and fully read up on what we were discussing earlier. So as it turns out, my ups
only uses simulated sinewave which may cause issues with my psu. That's why I was just going to use
a power strip. Most people here were in a agreement with me on that. Thanks for your help though!

When my first brand new psu died, it caused a "fo2" error on my ups, meaning a battery output short
error. It was overloaded. I assumed because the battery reached its max output watts but it may of just been
of simulated sinewave issue or just a coincidence with a faulty psu, not sure.

I said a simulated sine *can* present compatibility problems. This manifests in the PSU possibly shutting down on its own when the UPS switches to battery power because it doesn't like the UPS's waveform. But you didn't experience compatibility problems, because if your PSU doesn't like your UPS it'll just shut off and start back up normally the next time you turn it on. Your EVGA PSU didn't do this; it simply decided to give up on life.

Inrush current has nothing to do with wattage load.

Your PSUs are rated for 750W maximum continuous output. Your UPS is rated for 810W. Your rig will never draw even 500W with the components you have - it's literally not possible.

 

[ArkJinx7]

I said a simulated sine *can* present compatibility problems. This manifests in the PSU possibly shutting down on its own when the UPS switches to battery power because it doesn't like the UPS's waveform. But you didn't experience compatibility problems, because if your PSU doesn't like your UPS it'll just shut off and start back up normally the next time you turn it on. Your EVGA PSU didn't do this; it simply decided to give up on life.

Inrush current has nothing to do with wattage load.

Your PSUs are rated for 750W maximum continuous output. Your UPS is rated for 810W. Your rig will never draw even 500W with the components you have - it's literally not possible.

Thank you so much for clearing some things up for me here! So it is looking like I have a full supported "green light" to
use my new psu with my 810 watt ups? My brother is still telling me to just use the power strip to not over complicant
things. So does he just have the wrong idea? I'm guessing we both do. The only thing that does not make full
sense to me is the ups having a battery output short error "fo2" and being overloaded after the psu died when you
guys say that there is "no way" that the psu ever drawed on its max watts, which would have been 650 with my evga.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
You'd have to ask the battery back up manufacture on the error code.

 

[maxfly]

Most likely it was a false positive caused by hitting the power button with the ups connected to a dead psu.

 

[ArkJinx7]

Hi,
I've been using a simulated sine wave for years on my computers it's not a big deal
I have x299 and z490 rigs on the same apc xs1500 which is simulated sine wave.

My entertainment center computer now 13 years old it's always been on a simulated sine way until 4 months ago and still alive and kicking so I wouldn't worry about it.
Only stink is do not use a surge protector on it to get to a outlet just use a real 12 gauge wire extension cord "short as possible" if you need one to get to a wall outlet.

You can connect a power strip to a battery backup it will just drain the battery quicker if connected to the battery side.

So I shouldn't use my new power strip with my new psu? It's rated for over 1800 watts on a 15amp. It
might use a 12 gauge wire, not sure. The ups does "not recommend" at all plugging in a power strip!

 

[tabascosauz]

Thank you so much for clearing some things up for me here! So it is looking like I have a full supported "green light" to
use my new psu with my 810 watt ups? My brother is still telling me to just use the power strip to not over complicant
things. So does he just have the wrong idea? I'm guessing we both do. The only thing that does not make full
sense to me is the ups having a battery output short error "fo2" and being overloaded after the psu died when you
guys say that there is "no way" that the psu ever drawed on its max watts, which would have been 650 with my evga.

F02 doesn't always mean the same thing. It could very well suggest a problem at the wall, or in the UPS itself.

APC UPS for Home and Office Forum

Schneider Electric support forum for our APC offers including Home Office UPS, Surge Protectors, UTS, software and services and associated products designed to share knowledge, installation, and configuration.

forums.apc.com

If it keeps on reappearing and you can't clear the code, contact Cyberpower. If it's a one-off and doesn't appear again, use the UPS.

Don't plug a power strip into a UPS or vice versa. If you need more length, get individual extension cords for each device/socket. One cord per device rule on a UPS.

 

[ArkJinx7]

Most likely it was a false positive caused by hitting the power button with the ups connected to a dead psu.

Very interesting! It very well might have been! However, this error came on right after the psu died
before I even holded down the power button on the ups to reset it. Even after I did this the ups still
gave up this error code again when I plugged back in my evga psu and flipped its back power switch.

F02 doesn't always mean the same thing. It could very well suggest a problem at the wall, or in the UPS itself.

APC UPS for Home and Office Forum

Schneider Electric support forum for our APC offers including Home Office UPS, Surge Protectors, UTS, software and services and associated products designed to share knowledge, installation, and configuration.

forums.apc.com

If it keeps on reappearing and you can't clear the code, contact Cyberpower. If it's a one-off and doesn't appear again, use the UPS.

Don't plug a power strip into a UPS or vice versa. If you need more length, get individual extension cords for each device/socket. One cord per device rule on a UPS.

I see. Well there should not be any problem with the wall outlet since the ups would send up a error code if
the outlet wasn't properly grounded. And my ups has been working great with everything else. It even worked fine for the first
day I used my evga psu with it. So yeah it was just a one off with that psu. It really didn't like it for some reason. Yeah I
would never plug a power strip into my ups.